Just call Orange. Decal sets, including HT badge, are about £20.

Ask here[/url].

Yeah, BB and head-tube faced, plus you should have the BB threads chased while you're at it. Get the brake tabs faced too. If you're looking to preserve the finish, it's easier to put protective stickers/tape/inner tube on the stays and yolks before the wheel is in.

Nicolai?

I would have to presume that the adaptor replaces one or more of the (fairly generic) spacers/locking nuts on the axle assembly. Such things aren't (typically) found on hubs with cartridge bearings.

Black or gunsmoke.

At that kind of price is it not more sensible to buy an estate car? Like dobiejessmo said, there are some absolute munters kicking around and, as a noob, you're prime for getting a lemon.

It's virtually impossible to properly clean and dry a chain which is still fitted to the bike. Lubes like ProLink ProGold are excellent for lubing over the top of old lube, but once the crap gets to a point where the chain is crunching when twisted, the best (read: quickest and most thorough) method is to remove the chain and give it a proper cleaning.

Most lubes won't actually perform as they are designed to do unless they're applied to a clean, bone-dry chain.

I'll get a picture up shortly of my partner's P7. I'll confess to being utterly envious of her as it possibly the most remarkable bike I've ever been on. Although she sometimes puts the 130mm Fox Float from her Stumpy on it, its usual guise is with a rigid fork. I get some adrenaline-based thrills and grins from my own bikes – SX Trail and Orange SubZero – but the P7 simply demands my attention and focus and just plants a smile on my face. Every time I ride it I seem to find myself saying things like "how nice is that, then?" and "can I have it?", even if nobody else is around.

Is the P7 the perfect trail bike?

Most basic set-up stuff can be done with Allen keys, so get yourself a decent set, like Bondhus or Wera, for around £20 and then buy the bike specific stuff as you need it.

Pete, that's a great link; thanks very much. Thanks Englishmastiff for taking the time to type that up, it's exactly the kind of details I was looking for.

I never thought I'd hear myself saying it, but Ron Jeremy, yes, please forward me the info for the appartment. We are actually planning to camp – we like that kind of thing – but there's also the possibility of some friends coming along with us. If they do, then a chalet or appartment would be preferable. My email is in my profile.

Ask a doctor/optician/priest.

Different models suffer different problems. Which ones are you looking at?

Lazarus is good if you tend to write a lot on forums. It saves the content of text boxes as you type, so if you accidentally come off the page, if your connection is dropped or if you get stung by a 'server busy' page, then you can recover what youve already typed. You can turn it on/off as desired, so it's security concsious.

SmoothWheel, Multiple Tab Handler and NoScript are all great add-ons. PDF Download is available to turn any web page into a PDF document.

Get both sets of threads coated in grease and turn the BB cup slowly in the opposite direction to which it should screw in. When you hit the point where the two threads align, you'll feel the cup move slightly towards you (as the BB threads pitch up on the frame threads)and then suddenly 'drop' in. Change direction when you feel this drop and the cup should screw straight in.

If it still won't play nicely and you're not confident giving that bit extra on the wrench, take it to a shop and get the threads chased. At least you'll know for sure then that you're working with a clean interface.

My '06 SX Trail…

The egg obviously, since its just a development of ova that have been around since the dawn of sexual reproduction.
The first true chicken developed in the egg from a slight random mutation inherited from one or other of its chicken-like parents.

End thread.

Here's a link to the caliper number chart from Hope.

A more sensible comparison would be with the Tech M4. The X2 is an all-modulation XC brake. Another possibility is for a 183mm M4 front and a 160mm X2 rear.

For all I like Shimano brakes in terms of performance, their absolute non-serviceability rules them out for me. I don't ever want to have to fix my brakes, but I always want to be able to.

You need to lay the Nitromors on pretty thick and then leave it to activate. It can take five or ten minutes to get going, especially on powdercoat. You don't need any scouring/sanding; that's the whole point of using a stripper.

At the Skyspace, Kielder.

…I'm running a 183mm rotor and a have a a 203mm rotor.

Not sure that the 32 is built for use with such a big rotor. I'd say it's worth checking out before you proceed. Give Mojo a call and heed their advice…

I'm sitting on it.

I sometimes get a squeak until I get some heat back into the pads/rotors. In the last couple of days, with the temps getting into minus figures, the squeak has been more of a honk. I have organic factory pads in Hope Tech V2 (f) and M4 (r) on both bikes.

Capital punishment is a product of a violent society, not a solution to it.

"We shall not allow terrorists to diminish our freedom and our way of life" said by countless politicians who would rather do that themselves.

Hugh Janus?

To what size rotor, Im thinking of the same and im running 203 front.

Like I said, the adaptor means you have to go to a rotor 20mm larger than the caliper would usually fit.

It's the correct adaptor, but you're also going to have to get a new rotor. In case you missed it; the adaptor ups your rotor size by 20mm.

the lad ive bought it from has an enduro and it was made for that !! he is also about my weight and had it set up with the push stuff for his own enduro!!

I believe that this what Americans would refer to as a "no brainer". Take that shock and see your Enduro reborn; you're going to love it.

What was the shock from originally? It may have odd characteristics if it was PUSHed for a different type of suspension and/or for a rider of larger/smaller weight than you. If it was tuned for big hits DH riding, it won't be best suited to trail-type riding; and vice versa.

I run a PUSHed DHX 4 on my '06 SX Trail and it it's almost incomparable to the original shock. No more blow-through, way better tracking and reallt tightens up the pedaling.

If you find out what the original PUSH tune was, give Neil a call at TFTuned – it's he who will have done the tuning – and ask how he thinks it might work.

Pardon me if I point out the glaringly obvious, but have you turned the gain up as well as the master volume?

It's only £4 from CRC (link) for the Avid bolts and CPS washers.

If you don't have any Isopropyl Alcohol, just rub some dish-washing soap on them and rinse with kettle of boiling water. It's literally a two-minute job (once the kettle's boiled!).

135mm/150mm is the hub width. What's your frame? 95% of bikes (so the standard) will be 135mm.

A well-built 32H (yes, spokes) wheel is perfectly strong for most trail riding.

The pins on SRAM 9-speed chains are not design or intended to be reused. It'd be OK as an on-trail repair to get you back to the carpark, but it shouldn't be used as a permanent repair.

PS – how do I tell if they're degraded anyway?

It's like I said in the overhaul guide; the cups or cones may have worn/pitted. If the grease has dried out or been washed out and serious pitting has occured, it can effectively make the cups and/or cones larger, thus causing the bearing assembly to drag. Factor the QR tension into this and you can end up with a wheel that doesn't want to turn.

It's possible that the cones have just somehow managed to work their way inboard, but usually when a cone and lock-nut shifts it'll go the other way and the assembly will loosen.

Hopefully, though, you'll just need to reset the cones and lock-nut.

Steve

Easy job…

http://steveukmtb.wordpress.com/shimano-hub-overhaul-cup-and-cone/%5B/url%5D

But if this has just happened 'randomly', then don't be surprised if your bearings or cups/cones have degraded.

The fitting is much better with the windowless shifters, although you should find that you'll get the most out of the Tech lever if you move it further inboard than one might typically put a lever. Mine are at least 21cm in from the bar-end and would possibly clear a window in that position.

Most bike shops would condem, but a good one would be able to Helicoil that for you.