Here's the dimensions of the Domain spring I have. It was purchased from TFTuned Shox. The overall length is 320mm; the OD is 30.08; and the ID of the tapered ends is 17.70mm. If you want it, it's yours for £15 plus whatever it costs to ship it to Italy (correct?) by recorded delivery; probably around £5.

Would you describe how you reassembled?

If you try the Domain, you'll need to modify the plastic spring mounts…

The underside is almost like the topside, but you'll see whan you get it out that the 'top-hat' part of it is much wider. The smaller side fits into the top-cap on one end and the supension cartridge at the other; the larger side fits into the end of the spring.

The Domain spring is tapered at each end and the larger side of the Marzocchi mounts will not fit. The top mount can be flipped no problem as the large side still fits into the top-cap of the fork; however, the larger side of the mount will not fit into the fork cartridge. You will have to file it down to get it to fit.

Let me know if you decide to go down that route. I have a used-once Domain spring that I'd be willing to sell.

You're supposed to use an impact wrench.

The usual method for removal without the proper tool is as you've tried; to loosen them while the fork is still assembled. You really need somebody to compress the fork – so that you get as much weight as possible into base of the carts – while you loosen the foot-nuts. It's also advisable to use a rubber/nylon headed mallet to deliver short, sharp taps to you wrench handle, to (somewhat) simulate the action of an impact wrench. Sometimes it'll work; sometimes it won't.

All that said, once the springs have been removed the uppers should just slide out of the lowers. At least they do an my '07 RC2X.

You're correct that the pre-'08 springs are not compatible.

You can order one for yours from Windwave (Marz' UK dist.), but it'll have to be through your local shop. I paid just under £30 for mine.

The soft spring from a RockShox Domain 316 is physically the correct size, but you have to modify one of the plastic mounts that the spring sits on inside the fork. The Domain spring is also without the powdercoat finish, so it clatters around inside the fork and can be quite irritating. Bear this in mind if somebody offers the Domain spring as an alternative.

Before you start stripping the seals out of the bearings, which could quite easily result in them being ruined if you're ham-fisted, just remove the BB cups from the frame, clean the cups and frame threads with a toothbrush, wipe them clean with a thick towel-like cloth, then apply a little grease to the cup threads and loads of grease to the frame threads. Refit, making sure those cups are properly torqued, and try again.

You should also make sure that the noise isn't coming from the chainring bolts. A quick blast with silicone spray on each bolt/nut should be sufficient to dampen; then you can dismantle, clean and regrease/threadlock if needs be.

In my opinion, it's highy unlikely to be eminating from the actual BB bearings unless they are also physically difficult to move.

I wish it were possible to vote "no confidence" on a ballot paper. There needs to be a democractic and official way to say that the political system isn't working.

I use a Kennedy pipe cutter (from Cromwell Tools) on my Fox and Marzocchi forks, and also Thomson seatposts. I always finish the job with a file, but much prefer a cutter to a saw.

Go here and dowload the appropriate owner's manual – it includes the correct oil levels for your fork. Then go here and read the service instructions. Then read them again.

I think we are brainwashed by society into being dutiful beyond the resonable. We are indeed taught this by people who have a vested self interest in our being obdeient and unquestioning as it gives them power and security – our parents.

Not quite how I would say it, but I more or less agree with your sentiment. Even when there is no 'harm' being done, the very concept of Family is unreasonable, dysfunctional and prohibitive. It's much easier to develop and control a cohesive Society when it is comprised of Families; hence the value that governments attribute to it. At the other end of the scale, Family offers (perceived) security against (perceived) dangers that an individual might find more difficult to manage.

The Texas Chainsaw Massacre is an excellent, if extreme, observation of Family life.

careful…

Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

And when I mentioned an Asian minicab driver forcing his way through me to get to the width restrictor first it was because we ended up having a rather intense conversation after I'd picked myself up off the pavement and caught up with him in the queue of traffic 200m down the road.

But what does the "Asian" part have to do with what happened? Why is is necessary to mention it?

you did seem to drift out towards the 'wet bit' as it went past too.

This is what people on bicycles tend to do, especially on ascents, and is precisely why people in cars need to give them plenty of room.

If you want the most consideration on the roads, wear a wig of long, blonde hair instead of your helmet. (link)

You may find this guide[/url] useful.

What is any piercing about?

Well, it's obvious; isn't it? It's about…errr..you know?..about… not being one of the crowd and all that…

What's grey and can't swim?
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A filing cabinet.

I've got hollow alluminium pegs with my Wild Country (Terra Nova's 'budget' range) tent. They're super-strong and long-lasting; light, too.

Even standard pegs should last if you're careful about placing them. The biggest cause of damage is pressing them in with your foot. It's hard to tell if you've come up against anything immoveable and the result is that the peg bends. Simply by taking a peg out and finding a different angle of insertion, you'll find that they last much longer.

A decent workstand.
A good set of keys + T25 torx.
Chain-whip and cassette tool (plus appropriate driver for the tool).
Whatever you need for removing/refitting your crankset, rings and bottom bracket.
Whatever you need to bleed your brakes.
Cone spanners if you have cup & cone hubs.
Silicone spray/lube.
A spoke key.
A small (2mm) screwdriver.
Snips and pliers.
15mm spanner.
Rubber/nylon headed mallet.
Soma tyre levers.
Track pump.
Lots of old toothbrushes.
Rags and tissue paper.
Cotton buds.
General purpose thick grease.
Threadlocker.
WD40 (as water displacer and solvent).
White spirit (as solvent).
Isopropyl alcohol (as solvent).
Nitrile gloves.

+1 for the digital camera, too. A reliable source of reference is invaluable.

That seems like a mention to me.

I meant to say that they barely make reference to it. Looks like my composition skills are not entirely dissimilar to whoever wrote the original article.

I don't know where you get the impression from that I'm not calm. Does disagreement in something have to indicate aggression? Perhaps it's just the tone in which you read?

I'd have thought the police might find the fact he was on a bike quite important…

It was apparently so important that the emphasis shifted so far away from identifying the perpetrator that they don't even mention his appearance, build, height or the color/style of his clothes; you know, the things that might help identify him when he isn't riding a bike.

i don't think getting the shock Pushed will solve the issue.

I didn't say that it would solve anything. I said that it would remove some of the inefficiencies of the stock shock. Unless he returns the bike, he's stuck with it; so having the shock tuned to improve the pedalling is going to make it much, much more comfortable for him.

At which point does "an acquired taste" become "too stuck in your ways to be able to learn a new skill"? It's easy to make excuses as you get older; mainly because every other thick-headed old bugger around you is doing the same thing.

The bikes you've been on are all hugely different to even a short-travel FS. The Pitch is pushing it that little bit further and it's no surprise you're feeling like you are. How come you didn't look at the Stumpy or something similar?

You don't mention what HT set-up you're coming from. Also, what's your definition of downhill? Just going down a hill; or are you talking fast over rocks/roots?

I do a lot of riding on an '08 Orange Subzero with 180mm Marz' 66; the rest on a Specialized SX Trail (so FSR, but more travel than your Pitch). Yes, the SX Trail is less efficient when I pedal – that's unavoidable – but it's way more efficient on descents. For all it's a different technique I use, the SX Trail is a better climber than the Subzero. If you can't figure out how to ride a FS bike, then I would suggest taking lessons from somebody who does. Getting your stock shock PUSH tuned would remove some of its inefficiencies.

person riding a bicycle = cyclist

You don't need to try to patronise me, Nick; I understand the term. What I don't understand is the point of the article and the emphasis on the minor fact that the person who committed the attack was using a bicycle as his mode of transport. Other than it being the attacker's mode of trasport, the bicycle bears no relation to the incident. It wasn't used as a weapon and there is no indication that it is believed to be in any way related to the motive or cause. The bicycle is, it would appear, irrelevant to the incident; and yet the whole article revolves around it.

Concise and elegant are two of the least appropriate words that one could use to describe that article.

I don't understand why the BBC has to specifically refer to the person as a cyclist. The report clearly states that the motive for the attack is unknown, so why does the report presume that that the guy's mode of transport is in some way related to it. It's an absolute non-event – not even worthy or reporting – which requires prejudicial filler to pad it out enough to make the story longer than the headline. The motivation for some 'news' reports just baffles me at times…

example?

This blog post and the related MTBR thread where the Intense welder responded.

Here's his suspension "facts" thread from MTBR, although it's been quite heavily sanitised/edited by Alan and/or MTBR admin.

He was instrumental in having an MTBR member banned for consistantly calling him out on his bullshite – caused quite a stink on Emptybeer (not that it takes much to do that!).

I bought Disco pads for some Mono M4s and they glazed really easily, then became hazardously weak in the wet. The ones I got for a Mono Mini wouldn't fit into the caliper without having to file down the back-plate. I won't be buying them again.

The guy who owns the company feels it best to 'up' his brand by putting other brands down, which doesn't exactly instill confidence in his product. Not only does he like to libel other companies and their designs/quality, he likes to try and mislead potential customers by portraying his opinions (subjective) as fact (objective).

Buy a goose. Or a wolf.

Take a look at this guide. I'd recommend using a make-shift press (like those in the guide) to remove the main bearings and upper seatstay bearings, then either drift or fettle a press for the Horst link bearings. You need something that will get in between the two bearings and grab one at a time, or knock one out in-over and the other out out-over (!).

The main bearings are the easy ones. The tricky ones are the Horst link bearings. What year is your frame? It should be around £30-40 for a shop to do the full set, not including bearings, of course. Specialized dealers will have the proper tool kit for extracting the Horst bearings.

Not sure, sorry. It wouldn't surprise me if they were the same as standard rotors, though.

Just say no – Didn't work for Zammo though did it?

I think a heroin habit is a little harder to kick than a craving for puddings.

Just. Say. No.

Nobody can help improve your will-power for you; you just need to get strong and have a word with yourself.

Hope will make you one, just order through a dealer. All the need is rotor diameter, bolt pattern and brake band (track) width.

Which rubber seals? Not all seals are equal.

GT85 and WD40 may be safe with most rubber, but they leave an oily residue behind which can be problematic (on brake seals for example).

WD40/3-in-1 do a silicone spray (link) or Hunter do an excellent silicone lubricant. I use the Hunter stuff for (DOT fluid) caliper/lever overhauls and/or rebuilds, and the silicone spray for cleaning calipers.

The (visible) inner link (to the left of the split outer) is fairly heavily corroded by rust. Without having the chain in my hands, I'd say that the damage was caused by the links not being able to move freely. You most likely caused this yourself by putting the bike away wet.

Here's a link to[/url] complete instruction with pictures.