I use Ritchey 1.75 tubes in all my tyres – 2.3 Eskars and 2.3 Chunders. I also tend to run at around 28-30PSI, so not exactly high pressure. Although I haven't had any trouble from pinch flats, my neighbour's uncle's brother's flatmate's cat disappeared about three weeks ago. I attribute this terrible loss to running tubes which are intended for smaller volume tyres.

Does your dog bite?

shimano cassette. sram chain. just for the chain clippy linky thing easiness.

You can use a 9spd Powerlink on 9spd Shimano or KMC chains. The KMC chains come with their own version (Missing Link) which will also work with Shimano and SRAM chains.

How much stiffer do you reckon it is, just by looking at the increased snugness, 12% ?

You'd need to know the snugness meausurement, but snugness will typically increase stiffness by a ratio of around 1:1.22 within a 17cm (approx.) radius of the axle; so a 10% increase/difference in snugness will translate to a an increase of around 11.22%. I wouldn't like to say what the figures would be for a 175mm crank.

XT cassette and KMC X9.93 or XTR/DuraAce is the most durable set-up I've used. SRAM 971 and 991 chains were awful, as were the 971 cassettes, although that was a few years ago and SRAM have reportedly reverted to the original Sachs 'recipe' on the chains.

Twenty five years of clogged-up snotty face and thick head from mucus and/or medication. I tend to dread the summer months.

This year, I've stopped drinking tea and removed dairy products from my diet. Although I still get the occasional eye-itch, dealt with by drops or a cold, wet cloth, I have had no problem at all from bunged-up sinuses or runny nose. I suspect that only fellow sufferers will understand just how much of a relief it is to be able to breathe easily and not be constantly wiping/blowing my nose.

The SLX arms (no rings/BB) have been found to be lighter than the XT, although manufacturing differences could make it so that a set of lighter XTs could probably be found. The main weight difference between SLX and XT is in the rings.

The supplied BB cups are identical (bearings and seals) for SLX and XT.

Although the SLX uses a composite middle ring, it's not the same as the XT and is heavier. The big ring is simply not comparable. I have pictures of the weight differences between the rings, just not at this computer. All three rings use entirely different materials and the two larger rings have a different design.

I suspect that most riders wouldn't tell the difference in ride quality between the two sets, so could just make their decision based on aesthetics.

My riding isnt up for discussion, i just want peoples experiences of Mechs and some advice on buying one.

The point came in the discussion where you revealed that your riding may be contributing to your problem. Pity for you if you don't want to hear it.

Hmmmmmmm im not really excusing myself…

If you say so.

This doesnt however mean that i want to build on the cheap because im a relative Newbie.

Did I say, or even imply, that you should?

Plus im not into just going faster, i like to tougher options sometimes!

The "tougher option" being the one where you ride into things rather than over/around them?

That's my advice based on what you've said. You're free to ignore it of course, I don't mind; but when you're bored of replacing the parts you've twatted of things you can't manage to ride around/over, maybe come back and give it another ponder…

If you're not bothered by the cash then I would recommend the Saint Shadow. The super-short cage version on my SX Trail has taken a fair amount of knocks and is still going strong. The SS cage is really tucked up and out of the way. The Saint is quite heavily sprung compared to the XT, so make sure that your cabling is well-fitted and well-routed.

There comes a point, I think, when one really has to stop excusing one's self for being heavy-handed/ungraceful/clumsy/whatever and just work at being more attentive and considerate. What it means is that you're usually going to be picking better, cleaner lines and, ultimately, going faster.

I'm going to suggest that doesn't necessarily have anything to do with riding. Try taking walks instead of riding and give yourself time to reflect on what's going on. Think of it in terms of your general self, not just the experiences you're having on the bike.

Just keep telling yourself that you haven't yet mastered the one you already have.

If he does go to Thrunton he best not tell his mates or some on here will be upset.

If he does turn up at Thrunton it's obviously because of all you gobshytes banging on about it on here. Now the place is going to get blown up and shot at, then probably burned down. Well done; I hope you're all very pleased with yourselves.

What I want to know is how they get the hoover to stick to the wall.

It's probably just a really good hoover.

EDIT typing that at the same time as TSY. Pardon the repeat.

How were they riding it without pedals?

Orange prototype frames tend to get the Strange branding. I'm not too well up on my Orange designs, but that looks like a Diva (womens) version of the Blood frame.

That list reads like a happy couple of hours in the workshop. You really should learn to work on your own bike. Yes, you'll need to make a small investment in tools, but it's a one-off rather than repeated costs for shop labour. Take a look at my bike blog (link[/url])and see if any of it appeals to your inner-wrench.

You've got, with a conservative estimate and without a new hub and wheel build, at least £100 in parts alone, although they could easily be more than twice that. Doing it yourself would allow you to shop around for less-than-RRP deals, which can easily work out to savings of as much as 50%.

Depending on the parts used, you could be looking at as much as £350 to get that lot done.

I think that the concept of fate is so popular because so many people refuse to consider the concept of coincidence. People take comfort in the believe that there's a plan – be it personal, local or universal.

People are generally frightened, irrational and superstitious. The Age of Reason wasn't really that popular with the masses.

Now THAT is sexist. You are assuming that all women are timid little creatures with low skill level, who need careful handling otherwise they will burst into tears.

You exaggerate, but you're on the right lines. Women typically approach riding with a different attitude, and indeed often ride for different reasons. They also tend to have an entirely different approach to learning and, if anything, will underestimate their skill level. A typically male aggressive and competitive approach to learning and riding doesn't really appeal to many women; hence the interest in, and market for, female coaching.

I am using generalisations and so there are of course exceptions to everything that I say.

I had the same issue back in January and complained immediately to PayPal, primarily because I have an immaculate record going back over five years and they told me that, to quote, "there may be a higher than acceptable level of risk or exposure associated with your Account (based on the information available to PayPal at the relevant time and what in its sole discretion it regards as an acceptable level of risk or exposure to PayPal under all the circumstances)".

They initially told me that this was to become a permanent policy and that if I didn't like it I was at liberty to close my account. I told them that there was no point in my doing that as I still wanted to be able to pay using PayPal, and that I would just stop offering it as a mean of payment in my auctions. After hearing nothing back for a few weeks, I eventually received an email saying that because of my "consistently good performance" (even though I had not actually used PayPal in those few weeks) the restrictions on my account were being lifted.

What is the length of the steerer now you've cut it? If it's not ridiculously short the uppers may be of use to somebody and you can use the funds to pay for a new set. It's not unusual for DJ'ers to use Talas 36s and many of those kinds of frames will run shorter headtubes.

It's a common issue. It's the reason you can't use that combination of fork / rotors.

It's why one can't use that fork/rotor combination with some hubs. Plenty of people – myself included – use 36s with two-piece rotors.

A few years ago, the street sellers of the Newcastle Evening Chronicle were often to be heard shouting "chronicle" in various guttural, incoherent ways at regular intervals. They would range from what sounded like an after-dinner belch to the infamous "Ronny Gill".

One day a friend of mine was walking through town and happened to look across at one of the sellers, who was wearing the typical look of deep disinterest and general misery. Without ever cracking his wretched facade, and in the same flat, bored tone that he and his colleagues were synonymous with, the guy shouted, "man kicked to death by one-legged chicken".

The RRP on the new stuff is significantly higher than the 970 stuff will fly out at current prices. M980 cranksets RRP at £50 more than M970; M980 shifters are £10 more (single and pair prices), for example.

At this very moment: Soon Forget by Pearl Jam (Binaural album)

I fitted a set of roof bars to my car a couple of weeks ago. When I'd finished, I found myself stepped a few paces back from the car nodding my head approvingly. I was thinking how my German estate car is practical and comfortable and how it'll good to be able to get some loads up on the bars. It was at that moment that I realised my youth had departed me long ago.

On Saturday gone, I decided that I needed a shoe horn (for my 5.10s). So I bought one. As I dropped the shoe horn into my bag on the way out of the shop, I wondered if, in fact, my middle age had also departed.

Councils tend to take noise disturbances very seriously and many will have dedicated teams operating between 11pm and 4am to deal with residential problems. Check local Council or police websites for non-emergency numbers, or even a specific section on noise problems. Don't assume that nobody else takes seriously the problem of noise pollution and disturbances.

…remain indifferent.

Done like this[/url].

eBay used to be great for genuine deals. I wheeled and dealed my way through three different bike builds about six years ago. Much depends on the quality of a listing and I would often take chances on poorly advertised parts and resell them with good pictures and clear, concise description, typically for a relatively good profit.

It's a kicker when your stuff goes for cheap, though. I had a once-used e13 chainring go for £1.24. The kid I sold it to actually apologised, although his bid had been for £15, and asked if I still wanted to sell. Like you say, it's (sometimes!) nice to give somebody a bargain – there's one waiting for you out there, for sure…

The silicone spray that Halfords sell is possibly made by WD40 (who own 3in one) and might not be very rubber / wiper seal friendly.

I use that stuff for cleaning hydraulic caliper interiors and keeping pistons clean and seals supple. Should be in the toolbox of every hydraulic brake user.

Anyone want to make a cheeky counter offer?

C'mon, somebody won that fair and square. If you wanted more you should have put a reserve on it.

The main difference is that the XT uses bearings to support the shift mechanism, rather then the plastic bushings that support the SLX. The feel isn't hugely different when both shifters are new, although the XT is notably lighter/smoother, but the bearings won't deteriorate over time like the plastic bushings will.

It's really not possible to answer, beyond surmise, your hub question without knowing which hub you have.

Tools: buy decent tools once; buy cheap tools as often as they cease to be useful.

What you find interesting + take a picture of it = interesting picture.

Another vote for the Fork Juice. As with all sprays, it's vital to cover the caliper and rotor. I also use Juice on my seatpost as it all but eliminates the build-up of crud which ends up as a ground-up powder, crunching around when I adjust the post.

Anyone else done this?! Shall I blunten my rotors?!

That would be, if you'll pardon my pun, something of a knee-jerk reaction.

I had the grill badge swiped from my Passat last autumn. I have the image of some thirty-something wandering past one night and being suddenly overcome by a wave of petty-crime-based nostalgia.

This might help…

Don't use a socket to drive the bearings in unless you've filed it down to a flat face. The rounded edge of a normal socket can slip and crush the seals. Check out the Hope video.