I’m commuting on schwalbe cx comp tyres at the moment- good enough for muddy tracks and bridle paths yet doesn’t seem too much draggier on the road than the conti gator skin slicks I was running in the summer.

It is one of the good things about trek; plenty of frame sizes to choose from. None of this small, medium and large nonsense. 🙂

Sounds like a extra volume can, its a kinda strange design I find.

Once you get the shock apart take off the circlip and you can pull the rotating part of the can off to clean inside.

That’s a cracking discount on the full bike!

I’m 5’11” and I rode a virtual 18.5″ ex8- as others have said they’re pretty long. I wouldn’t have wanted a bigger frame.

A above; have a reverb and no protection (oo er!) I generally clean it after a muddy ride and make sure there is no mud or grit around the seal.

I love these threads.. Op asks a simple question then 10 people come out of the woodwork to tell him how he’s doing it wrong and how somehow cleaning a chain with a toothbrush and some white spirit makes less mess than using a chain cleaner.. Wtf exactly are you guys doing with your chain cleaners to make so much mess??!

Op- I’ve not yet found a good replacement for the park degreaser, everything else I’ve tried foams up too much. Annoyingly I can’t even find the genuine park stuff anywhere at the moment, it’s almost as if its discontinued- you can get it as part of the kit but nowhere seems to list the fluid on its own.

Scratch that- wiggle stocks it 🙂

48psi sounds very low, think I’m running 75 in my 36 talas although I am 13stone. You can add float fluid in the air chamber to adjust the ramp up characteristics, changing the amount of lube oil in the lower legs wont affect the compression adjustment. See here for how to do it; http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/36mm_TALAS_III_SpgServ.htm

This should be part of your oil change procedure anyhow.

This isn’t based on any inside knowledge; but I image RS has a lot of unused <2011 stock sitting around which they can’t really shift. Rebuild them with the important parts of the 2012 posts and sell them cheap through the online retailers: bingo, stock cleared and cash in the bank.

Providing its not due to the previously mentioned pump connection ‘phenomenon’ then it’s time to do an air can service.

You could send it off but it really is easy to do, check YouTube for tutorial vids. Took me about 30mins the first time and I usually take my time on these sort of jobs.

I guess it depends what you mean by weather proof; I rode around w2 at Afan in some of the worst weather I can remember and the trail was perfectly rideable. However I was totally soaked by the end and the bike took a beating; f+r pads down to the backing, killed the front wheel bearing, the grit got everywhere!

I just remember getting to the cafe at glwyncorryg (sp?) it was blowing so hard that we couldn’t stand the bikes up on the balcony outside. None of us really wanted to leave after some hot food!! Finished the loop though.

How about picking up some fox 36s second hand. Shouldn’t be too expensive, as long as they’re in basic working order either a DIY freshen up or send them off to Mojo to insure they’re 100%

You’ll not be worrying about they feeling flexy and they’re not thaaat heavy.

I’ve got a Cotic roadrat which does duty as commuting and light off road use. Don’t do drops me.

Currently fitted with 700×30 schwalbe cx comp tyres which make it pretty competent off road, obviously I’m not taking it round any trail centres but it gets me up the local canal tow path (not your granddads tow path mind; it’s blummin narrow, rutted, muddy and cut up). Guards fit still with those tyres which I like.

Watched that over lunch; it’s one of the better Atherton vids! Those lines in the quarry are sick gnarramazeballs rather super!

They’re soo smooth riding them as we’ll it makes it look almost easy.

And here in one easy thread is “Reasons not to buy a Canyon”

Look above

Best bike i’ve ever owned, easily. There is no way Trek, Specialized etc is worth twice as much (to me).

I’m not sure why they even have a phone number, I gave up ringing it when I had a problem.

I worked it out that it is cheaper to have one decent seatpost and saddle than buy 3

How long did it take you to work that one out Einstein..?

😀

Did anybody else who saw the advert think to themselves, despite the £xxxx of bikes on the current fleet; “I quite fancy that” ?

Think about it, it’s another niche to fill- its a new bike, but for the cost of a tank of fuel. You could ride it down the pub, not lock it up, not do any maintenance and yet it’s still a new bike!

Love mine, seems very competent an no heavier than the Trek fuel it replaced. I really wanted a Slash 9 but the cost difference meant the trek made 0% sense.

Swapped the bar and grips and changed the brakes to my xtr’s and swapped the tyres for Hans Dampfs, it’s brilliant!!

Air volume spacers. Or just dump in another pillow pack of float fluid as suggested above. Would however agree how it takes time to get exactly the right pressure and rebound/compression settings.

I doubt they will tell you anything that anyone who is serious about being up in the hills would

The metoffice are of course basically the most respected source of weather forecasts for pursuits on land and sea; but don’t let that bother you!

Aren’t 150mm forks travel-reduced 160mm?

Let all the air out and measure how much stanchion is sticking out when fully compressed, then subtract that from your measurement of total height with air in- that’s your travel.

2012 supposedly resolved the problem with oil migration, but I’m not sure how true that is.

CTD ones don’t seem to offer a whole lot of improvement and who actually wants a linear air spring; the whole point is it ramps up at the end.

Short TT really puts me off the Nomad – I’d need an XL to get a decent TT, but then I’d be on a massive gate of a frame.

Depends what you want it for I guess but I definitely found the one I rode too short, a good 20-30mm shorter than similar frames.

Typical Shimano – really good. Nice thin platform, plenty of pins, good grip, bearings seem well sealed and based on previous Shimano pedals I’d say they will last forever. The pins can be made short or long with the supplied washers (a bit of a faff to change but not difficult, about 20 mins a pair). All in all, for £60 I don’t think there is much better imo.

^
This. Except I got mine from Ribble for £37 (Sorry crashtestmonkey!) so even more of a bargain.

They’re a lot like the MX30s I had before except feel nicer to use (Shape of the platform I guess) and are a little thinner which is always a blessing on modern low FS bikes.

I love my HDs; only slight negative would be for XC type stuff they’re a little draggy.. but tbh that’s not really what they’re designed to do so on balance I think they’re excellent.

Given the stiff sidewalls you can (Have to) run really low pressures when tubeless.

Finally. I’ve been holding off upgrading to iOS6 until this came out. Can be doing without google maps on my phone, mainly for street view

Heated grips i’ve seen.. but not gloves

The main question you need to ask yourself is do you really want a waterproof?

Waterproofs are less breathable and on a bike where you are sweating often make you as damp as if you’d not worn one!

I use the Gore Alp-x SO jacket which is a windproof but is also water resistant. It cuts the wind out but is thin enough to wear on days that are just cool or with a mid layer underneath is good for sub zero temps. Expensive but highly recommended

Possible stupid question but does anyone know if you can strip out the internals of the hub (to service) with the wheel still built up, or is it necessary to de-lace the wheel?

Incidentally OP mine didn’t shift as well yesterday in -2temps as normal, not sure of the cause yet.

I find that gloves are never windproof enough in the finger and especially thumb area in the deep winter. Most gloves have seams on several sides around the fingers which can’t help keeping the wind out.

Next thing I’m going to try is some liner gloves inside my winter gloves.. just need to find some now, very few places seem to sell plain, simple liner gloves.

Another vote for the Northwave boots; they’re amazing! I’ve got the regular celcius ones (Not as insulated as the artic) and I wear them all year round.

Feet were toasty warm yesterday at -2 and I only had thin socks on, should be good down to -5, -6 etc with some thicker socks.

Ooo, didn’t realise the new free miners trail was open. What’s it like? (the old one was a bit of a non event IMHO) Love Verderers! What’s the corkscrew then?

LoCo……. assemble!

He was here like, literally the whole time you were…

I’ve got the havoc carbons on my Strive and I love them, the bend, upsweep and width is perfect IMHO. Most people tell me they’re too wide, but many hours in the saddle tell me they fit just fine.

Not 29ers but I was recommended a small strive despite being 5’10.. I bought a medium and I’m really happy with the fit.

Short answer; yes. Definitely go see Jedi right now.

Long answer; I’ve been riding for a relatively long time and while experienced struggled in certain areas plus I’m always
Looking to improve so I went in with specific ideas about what I wanted from a session and I got out what I wanted I think. The interesting thing is how small some of the changes you can make are, yet what a huge impact they can have on your riding.

Op Ive ridden the red on an ex8 and it’s fine. The lower section shows just how noodley the qr 32mm fox fork is but ok other than that. Tis a great place; go!

Are these refurbs or something Brant?

I notice the picture has the silver collar, but the description specifically states 2012 version which I understood to have the black collar.

Is the carbon one in any way ‘better’ or just 0.5-1 lb lighter? Carbon is great and all but I don’t understand why people get so excited about it!

(agreed about EI though; give them a few years to work out the bugs)