Info on re-assembling the top cap parts at the bottom of this page in case you haven’t seen it yet;

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/32Gen3OBRL_ServiceProc.htm

Let us know how you get on!

Got an mp3 player?
Get hold of the ‘ couch to 5k’ podcast off iTunes by the nhs.
It’s good.

Second that. We’re doing it currently (Me and otherhalf).

It’s well thought out, not too difficult for a beginner to get started with and stick to and gives you a feeling of achievement working through the weeks. Plus its totally free.

IMO (and this is using silicon spray, not ‘oil’) yes.. dirt does come out. You can prevent dirt going in by wiping the stanchions clean before you spray on the silicone.

That’s the crush washer. They’re consumable. Keep using them until they weep oil, then replace. Mojo sell them, as do others I assume

Torque wrench? Nah, just nip everything up and don’t go crazy and strip any threads.

flatboy; see here; http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/AllAirSpringQuickService.htm

Ignore everything before step7. You simply remove the air side top cap (DONT FORGET TO RELEASE THE AIR VIA THE VALVE FIRST!) empty out the old fluid and clean out everything and replace with 5cc of float fluid. The oil volumes chart I linked above confirms the quantity.

The oil in the air chamber will effect the linearity of the fork, you need some for lubrication but too much will cause the fork to ramp up sharply due to the reduced volume of air in the chamber.

You’ll likely empty out more than 5cc because it tends to migrate from the lower leg.

One other thing- that link above is helpful but I would not wash any of the fork internals out with soap and water. If you want to clean anything use IPA or some solvent that will evaporate completely. Last thing you want is water and soap in your damper fluid.

Hows the lower half of S2A at the moment? Last time I was there (Before the snow) it wasn’t really worth riding it was that draggy/claggy.

Other things to have on hand; fox float fluid for the air chamber (3 or 5cc required), crush washers for the base and syringes to measure out the float and damper fluid. (Last time I got 10 from ebay for about £3).

You might not need the washers, but if the fork leaks when you put it back together it’s annoying having to wait for a delivery before you can ride!

They’d have no way of knowing you’d had it apart if done properly. I believe Fox encourage users to do wiper seal services themselves anyway, but obviously I don’t speak for the company so couldn’t say 100%

This shows the oil volume and type:
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/oil_volumes.htm

Tech info here:
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

I’d do a simple oil bath change and clean the wiper seals, lube the foam rings and put it back together. DO NOT forget to check the air chamber as it’s likely most of the lower leg lube oil has migrated up there. There is info how to do this in the above link, but you might have to dig around for it.

Chances are that will sort the fork out unless its been run without oil for a long time. If it doesn’t work you’ve got the choice of rebuilding the damper youself or sending it off to loco/mojo.

Thats an OB damper as loco says.

Ones in good working order sell for ~£200-250 s/h tops.

If it’s an F-Series 32RL then it has open bath damping- not FIT damping. You certainly could replace with a FIT damper but tbh you’d be better off buying a new fork in the sales or sending it to someone who knows what they’re doing like MOJO or Loco. (If you don’t fancy servicing yourself I mean)

In terms of home servicing its very easy until you start stripping the actual damper down, which is much more involved. This is what your shop is saying they don’t want to do, they’re going to order a new damper assembly and fit it (Changing the bath oil at the same time). Mojo/Loco can strip the damper and service as required.

Seems to me all the issues were fixed with teh 2012 post. Only one I had problems with was the 2011 post which was rebuilt with the 2012 internals and is now spot on

Nice distance 10miles each way. Enough to get your heart working but not so far as to make it too much of an adventure! Enjoy

I really rate cwmcarn. It’s not the most technical place(the freeride section feels a little tame these days) but the last descent is just a blast. Rocky, but not so much that you can’t let go of the brakes and take it at full speed

Did u use a tool to press the wiper seals in or manage it by hand?

That’s the second alternative use of the stans cup.. It just happens its the exact right volume to measure out the cat food our moggy has…

I think the thing with ‘Fat Bikes’ is they need to decide on their USP. Mostly the public is confused, that’s why people with fatty’s always say they get so much attention. “When ever I go out I get loads of people asking me about my bike!” – Yeah.. it’s because no one knows what they’re for!

To begin with, I believed (As I think do a lot of people) that they were ‘snow’ bikes. Big fat tyres that allowed you to go back country exploring and float over snow and mud and ride along river banks etc. Fine. That’s cool. That’s a noble use. Do they do that? I’ve no idea, I’ve not ridden one in those situations(Or any situation). I assume if you have wide enough rims and tyres then yes, they do that admirable.

Then people started saying, oh no fat bikes aren’t JUST for that.. they’re great fun, it’s a whole new way of riding etc etc. Although I hear that the widest tyre/rim combinations are not really suitable for JRA- too draggy/heavy etc.

So OK.. now we have a bike that’s ‘just fun to ride on normal trails’ and isn’t suitable to ride along below the high tide line at the beach.

Far be it for me to dictate how people get their kicks.. I mean that’s half the fun of cycling; there are so many different ways of doing it, and yeah.. maybe if I tried one I’d ‘Get it’. But from an outside perspective it doesn’t really seem to gain you anything, other than perhaps, whisper it, attention..

Hang about, so they’re RLCS with a 15mm through axle.. not 9mm qr open bath like the description states? That’s a bit of a steal isn’t it.. they’re what; £8-900 rrp?

Are CRC being a little coy about the description hoping that the main distributors wont notice?

Things that put me off the Rohloff;

– Price
– 2 cables to the device and trickier to mount than the alfine
– Price
– The shifter (Although the alfine-8 isn’t perfect as it’s backward)
– Oh and the Price!

Friend has a Rohloff; seems to love it. I’m happy with my Alfine on the commuter, not sure i’d want the weight on a trail bike though.

I do like panniers and use them in the summer when the weather is warmer on my commute, in the winter though I prefer a backpack- I ride more offroad on the commute in the winter and I don’t like the handling/balance change associated with panniers.

16mile each way commute today. It was fun although the un-gritted roads were lethal- a covering of snow over sheet ice. Toward the end even the main roads were getting a bit dicey, glad I did it though.

Last time I went I still had my 120mm Trek Fuel EX. It was fine on the red trails although the very bottom section was verrrry bumpy and I was struggling to hang on! Great fun though.

I’ve been awaiting the new B&M light which looks very interesting.

AFAIK there isn’t a decent alternative available, I considered the Revo.. but like a lot of Exposures lights it seems interesting but not particularly well thought out.

For commuting I currently use the battery version of the Philips Bike Light, the beam is great but the battery life sucks. I’m torn between modding it with a new controller and external battery or getting some sort of dynamo.

AS is well worth a visit. I wore a ff lid and knee pads. Just wear what you’re comfortable with.

2 days??! You could do it in 2 days in a car and feel a bit rushed. Good luck to you… Crazy b’stds!

I’m a bit worried people on here think they can turn off ABS in their car…

Rachel

All you need to do is pull the correct fuse.

No more xv cans with ctd due to a change with the design of the eyelet area I understand. It means the volume spacers are used on the smaller cans. As above ctd shock has 3 compression tune settings.

Is it a 2012 post or earlier?

The early ones were known to be weak here. Not sure if it can be reattached, I think you might need a replacement barb?

Not been in a while but it’s pretty good- definately room for improvement but I guess that’s always the case!

BMX bandits is the best cycling film ever made.

This.

On a serious note and considering recent films only I really like Strength in Numbers.

With my Reverb fitted the saddle is approximately level* with the bars

*Within 125mm

😀

I’ve never used one.

That any help?

😀

Schalbe CX Comps are cheaper than the Pros, but the Pros are probably more suited to 100% offroad use. YMMV

•A free OS Landranger and OS Explorer map tile of Exeter

Well that’s me sorted for maps then.

So I bought a pait of black rubber gloves (yes I know I could have had pink or yellow!) & cut off the arm part. I now wear these tight against my ankle & over the top of my boots / socks so all the wet stays out of my boots…. and they just look like a 4″ extension of the boots. Job done!

?

I don’t get how they are at fault for Amazon et al undercutting Jessops and killing the camera shop business model (bar small specialists).

EDIT: Nikon is actually doing ok: http://nikonrumors.com/2012/05/12/nikon-reported-better-than-expected-financial-results-for-2012.aspx/

Jessops are going under because

1. Granny Smith is no longer buying whatever Canon Powershot compact to take pictures of her grandchildren, she’s using her iphone because she can email the picture straight to her family living in some-far-flung location, easily and quickly. She thinks it’s great because she no longer has to turn on that slow gray box in the corner and find that annoying fiddly lead to connect the camera and then spend 20minutes trying to remember how to attach a photo to an email.

2. Young hip photographers are using instagram et al to share photos and publicise themselves on the web, instantly the second they take the picture.. straight to Facebook, Tumblr etc

3. Pro’s are better catered for by shops such as Calumet and a lot even rent their gear these days.

Canon etc meanwhile have sat on their arses for 5years or more just increasing the pixels in their cameras and coming out with increasingly irrelevant software programs for printing your photos in an attempt to lock you in with them. Suddenly they’re making a product people (See above) no longer want. Jessops sell this product, or not as the case may be..

Jessops were funny, as others have said they often didn’t have much stock or knowledgeable staff yet because of their price matching you could nearly always get what you wanted at the best price. Even if they didn’t have it in stock if it was on their web site they would get it in for you.

The difference between them and the online shops is the online ones don’t have expensive shop front rentals to pay.

That said i’ve spent a lot of money over the years on camera kit and the majority of it through jessops; after all you can handle the items before you part with your cash.

At the end of the day the market for consumer point and shot cameras has collapsed and pro’s are not well catered for by Jessops.

Really the blame lies with the camera companies; Canon, Nikon etc. They’ve seen camera phones looming on the horizon for 5years+ and done absolutely nothing to counter the problem.

Sorry, but you trusted someone who started their post with; “Not a word of a lie”?

..Seriously?

IMHO Paying to ride is the only real way a large group of people (I.e. not just a group of mates) can ride purpose-built trails, be it single track or downhill runs.

Don’t get me wrong, I love riding in the Peaks or the local woods as much as anyone- but if you want to ride berms, jumps and drops there’s not much on offer outside trail centres.

Hiring a good bike is a great idea but I wonder if the cost of such a scheme is prohibitive for a lot of places. The cost of the bike is high (Even buying at trade price) then there is a considerable amount of maintenance to do on a bike used daily (Especially ridden in welsh grit for example) plus consumables like tyres, pads, transmission, cables etc.

Looks like the same one: couple of quid cheaper 🙂

Not used Edinburgh bikes before so wouldn’t have thought to look there!