Ps there is a long thread on mtbr forums about it too. Look for oil migration issue or similar.

I think the temp fix is to just remove the foam ring but I understand there is a part from fox (a proper scraper seal?) that you can replace the foam ring with.

Sounds like a common problem with all the float forks (and talas I believe, but that’s harder to work on). Internet-word is its fixed for 2012/2013 but I’ve no experience of that yet.

It’s great isn’t it!

I tend to do the whole thing once as a warm up and then push/ride up the shortcut to ride the descent a few times more.

I’ve just had a new bike from them too and experienced a few problems. So far they’ve been pretty good sorting it out, did you email uk@canyon.com ? They’ve been replying quite rapidly.

HD are approx 200g per tyre heavier than the NN pacestar NON snakeskin which is what I was running. I think its a good compromise overall as they’re still only ~750g per tyre. I will possibly change them out to NN for longer days or perhaps invest in some bonty mud x or similar for the winters

Agreed ^

The HD is really like an armoured NN, similar tread pattern and characteristics, just ‘more’

I ran NN for a year and found them a great mix of grip, light weight and tubeless compatibility. I changed in the end as I seemed to keep puncturing in rockier places- although i didn’t have the snakeskin ones. Just changed to HD f+r.

Trouble is the codes are only on the 2013 shocks and forks. Fox have made the decision to make the app only work with the latest stuff; unless you happen to know a code that works for your particular older fork/shock.
Don’t see why they can’t include a manual setting so you simply select your product from a list; it’s not like setting sag on a 2013 shock is any different from a 2012 or older.

I have a new bike which I’m practically frothing at the mouth to ride, but I’ll not be riding it this weekend because

A) the reverb went off to be fixed as it was broken out of the box

B) I had an hernia operation 6 days ago and I’m not ready for any proper saddle time yet (although I did have to have a couple of miles/round the block sort of outing yesterday!!)

Enjoy it wherever you’re riding this weekend!

Neninja; both forks were 2012 36 talas 160. One kashima, one not.

Fiddling will be re started once my reverb comes back from service (didn’t work out of the box, grrr)

Definately agree about the setup being everything, took me ages on my last bike to get it dialled. I just wondered if there was some sort of major difference between kashima and not given the two forks felt so different. It’s not like I spent a long time setting the kashima trek up; I just demoed it from the store so checked the rebound wasn’t set to anything crazy and rode it.

I did check the forks on my new bike and the seals definately have SKF on them so I assume theyre the latest low friction design.

Wouldn’t a 2×10 front mech work?

Healing vibes to you!

What’s the course like? Is it worth a trip if you’re not local?

I’d never get a good time on strava; by the time I’ve got to the top of the cwmcarn climb I want to enjoy the free ride bits and session them a few times; even if I could do it under an hour(which I doubt) I’d probably spend another 50mins up there!

people go riding and string all the good bits together

They don’t do they?
The bastards.

Hehe! 😉

Interested in this too; I find the standard steel fork quite harsh and I’m considering fitting some cx tyres for a little fun this winter so a bit more compliance would be nice!

Just got a set of mavic crossmax sx (on a new bike) yet to ride them much but it seems like a great package; respectably light (1755), 19mm internal width so wide-enough, out of the box compatibility with all the right standards 20/15mm front, 12×142/12×135 and qr rear. Look good, tubeless without rim strips, tyres go on and inflate easily- in fact I’ve yet to put the stans fluid in but a day after fitting 2 Schwalbe hans dampfs they’re still up 🙂

Should we report the listing to eBay?

Sometimes I find riding it is the only thing that works to really seal some tyres and punctures. Spent forever at CyB recently trying to get a 5mm cut to seal, eventually gave up and rode down the fire road at super slow speed- 5mins later it had sealed like a champ!

Not 100% familiar with specialized’s range but that brain shock makes that a stump jumper I think?

Totally shady advert, got to be stolen shirly

Geetee; you’re assuming everyone subjects them to the same loading. Riding quantity, location and style vary hugely so I don’t think you can make assumptions about frame quality variation just because person A breaks a frame while person B doesn’t.

IMO and IME there shouldn’t be anything more than the finest trace of oil on the stanchions. If you’re noticing an actual build up of oil which you could wipe off with a rag and then see a lump of it on the rag once you take it away then there is something wrong.

Have you looked around the whole circumference of both seals to make sure the edge is not nicked or folded over? It’s quite easy to damage the seal when refitting the lowers.

Northwave boots for me too- very cosy 🙂

Maybe it’s a rogue batch of 650b rims that stans made and didn’t tell anyone…

I must say the fox pads are very nice, good fit and protection plus you can wear them on longer rides without discomfort (unless you get a load of grit down inside them, which then hurts like a mother)

They were hard to find when I got mine ~8 months ago, never seems to be much stock of them for some reason.

So how do these angle adjust headsets work? Presumable is pushes the lower race forward somehow to change the angle between the upper and lower race, do they only work in 1.5″ head tubes with 1.125″ steerers or is there some other magic going on?

You can run the tubeless ready ones with tubes in if that helps?

Cheers all 😉

Loco; I looked at the tread pattern and thought it might be ok because of the spacing but I’d heard mixed things about them.

I’ve used a set of Nobby nics for a year (pacestar non-snakeskin) and really liked them, only changed to the HD as I was getting more tears in them at rockier places; but they’re horrendous at clearing mud! If the HD are the same or worse I’m thinking I’ll need something more suitable for the winter.. Question is will the fat alberts fit the bill…

I think it’s supposed to be 142×12

Well the strive turned up. I’ve not taken it out of the box yet as I’ve just had an op which means no lifting for at least a few days!

What I have done is got the very large pack of accessories and manuals out and had a good look. You can tell you’re dealing with a precise German company. There’s a manual for everything, all the accessories for fitted parts you’d expect to get on a retail product. E.g. The crossmax wheels have the tubeless valves, all the adapters for different axel standards and even a 5mm qr even though the frame and fork are 20mm.

They even supply a torque wrench to assemble everything which is a nice touch. Have said that I’ve yet to see anything with recommended fork and shock pressures or info on setting sag; given I know how to do this but it seems like a strange omission

I had a fuel ex. Just sold it and ordered a canyon strive esx 9sl. Waiting for it to turn up, exciting!

There are few reviews but it’s hard to argue with the value; 2.5k bike with crossmax sx, talas FIT, rp23, reverb, X0 etc. I considered an enduro, mega and spicy as well. Would love a spicy; but HOW much? 🙂 Dirt seem to love the strive, so fingers crossed I’ve made the right choice

All the best, I’m sure it’ll go fine! Just had a hernia operation myself today, feeling a bit raw but had keyhole- so hoping for a reasonably quick recovery.

Post up how the ride goes!

Very nice! Very nearly pulled the trigger on exactly that bike myself.

You mentioned you’re overseas, where are you based?

Silly questions first;

Have you checked the quantity of oil that is required on the fox site (off the top of my head that sounds about right)
Have you drained all the old oil out? (take the lowers off and let it drain out of the stanchions)

When you put the lowers back on extend the damper rod fully so that you don’t have to push them down so far to get the damper rod nut on.

It’s an interesting question and imho one the bike companies are going to have to look at if they want to keep increasing the cost of new bikes.

If people are not prepared to spend more on second hand bikes and there is no way for the original owner to trade in against a new bike (Possibly Leisure Lakes, but I don’t know anyone else) then it creates a problem.

Some people will buy an expensive bike and keep it for many years but I’d hazard a guess that most run them for ~3years max and then sell on when it’s still worth something. But as you say, if the most someone is prepared to pay for a full bike is ~£1500 then who is going to lay down the cash for a 4 – 5 or 6k bike knowing that in a year it’ll loose most of its value.

I like the look of the vaults, a friend has just got a pair and they are lovely. However despite being thinner than his old pedals (DX) the extra width means he catches them a lot more in uphill rocky sections.

I had my eye on some of the new saints and at £36 I’m not sure I can pass them up!! I do love shimano’s axle design, really easy to maintain and seems pretty bombproof.

The mount is the best bit of the package! I’ve got 1 mount that outlasted the edge itself! Welsh grit killed the garmin, but the mount is still going strong 🙂

Hurmm, that’s slightly trickier then. If it was me I’d probably either try and get a replacement used RP23 which could be cheaper than a service or sell the frame as is and just be honest about the condition.

You’ll never get that back.
How mechanically minded are you though? I only ask as doing a seal change on a fox rp is dead easy and makes a world of difference. All you need is the seal kit from mojo or similar at £25 and (ime) about 30mins.