Thanks Pook for organising that ride. Sorry I had to cut it short at Cut Throat Bridge.

Some good points on the last couple of pages about the need now for a single point of contact with DCC on behalf of the masses. The day before yesterday PDMTB together with Ride Sheffield and Keeper of The Peak (if memory serves me correctly) put a post up on Facebook of their draft open letter to DCC. It’s looking good, but they took it down to do some corrections.

Scroll down to the post on October 30 @ 1:19pm if you want to read the comments people made …

https://www.facebook.com/groups/PeakDistrictMTB/

mjr31

That is absolutely brilliant. Thanks for that 🙂

Just back in from riding Rushup Edge today (twice). The sections they’ve not started work on were just as enjoyable as ever. Shame it will soon be no more. Although, I’m hoping (and I know it’s an extremely slim chance) that with all the noise that is being created and hopefully some media coverage this week the work will at least be halted.

I did something that I don’t ever do today … I rode the footpath along the ridge. It was actually the sensible option as that path is pretty hard packed, whereas the adjacent bridleway was a bogfest.

The lady from PDNPA didn’t see it that way, but we exchanged a polite few words. I expressed my frustration about DCC, unnecessary work, how this will make people like me make more use of footpaths. She didn’t see it my way, but at least will go back and relay our conversation. It really hit home though … if they’re not a MTBer they just don’t get it. In fact one group of walkers I bored with the story of destroying an ancient path finished by saying “at least it’ll be good for cyclists” 🙄

One more thing if anyone’s interested. In 2000 the PRoW figures in the Peak were:

Total length of public footpath 2,136km
Total length of public bridleway 293km
RUPP & Byways Open to all Traffic 30km

Source: http://resources.peakdistrict.gov.uk/pubs/sopr/sop60-61.pdf

Quite a small percentage of legal routes for MTBs and the efforts of DCC in recent years is squeezing that further (in terms of quality).

I can’t see any follow up from mcdonagh2962 … troll?

Regardless, this thread is a good reminder that buying from DH is risky. If you like your online purchases to come with limited customer support, lies about products being in stock, lies about delivery dates, insults to your intelligence about the warehouse guys not having a telephone, lies about refunds, and general abuse then DH is the shop for you.

I run mini-Vs with 105 road levers, but I also use problem solvers. I find this combo gives very good stopping power. Works for me anyway.

Why wind up someone in a two ton killing machine who is already angry?

its unlikely to end in them reflecting on their behaviour or respecting cyclists.

Yep, I knew I was in the wrong there. Hopefully I have learned a lesson.

@MoreCashThanDash – loved that story 😀

Thanks for all the advice. I decided to give the Scott windstopper one from start cycles at try. For £20 it was hard to resist 🙂

edhornby – Member
If you want a good road-orientated bike shop near you, head out of streftord through alty and then onto Northwich, go to Dave Hinde cycles and talk to Dave, he would be just the kind of person to help you

Very cruel, but funny. I’m sure Hora knows not to go there 😀

I have one of these

I’ve seen an M-Part one that looks pretty much identical (just different branding).

It has been fine for what I need (stem, rotor and crank bolts), but tbh I still use feel most of the time

Yep, we had one too. Fairly light for a kids bike. Held it’s value quite well second hand too

Free delivery on some road bike levers I ordered on Sunday evening, which arrived on Wednesday. 1st time using Bike-Discount.de, but very satisfied with the price (~£25 less than CRC) and the delivery service.

The boulder field is on the DCC side, and the plan has always been for DCC to flatten that all the way up the Sheffield CC border at Stanage Pole.

The OP only said they were putting signs up at the Redmires side…

Just been out on a lunch time ride which was going lovely until I came across a Derbyshire CC van. Two workmen were putting up a notice at the Redmires end indicating that in a couple of weeks it will be sanitised up to the Sheffield border which I think is Stanage Pole.

Sorry if my earlier post wasn’t clear, but I am sure what I said is correct.

So now we’ll have two very smooth sections and a horrendous boulder field in the middle – that should keep everyone unhappy.

No, it’s the “horrendous boulderfield” all the way up to Stanage Pole that is to be flattened. The section from the pole to Redmires is the Sheffield CC part and that is not being touched

The repair work that is to take place on Stanage Causeway and the view-point of local MTBers both here and elsewhere (check out page 1 for links to Ride Sheffield and Peak MTB) has been well aired. On balance, there is agreement on two things:

1) The condition of this byway has deterieorated significantly in the past 10 years, mostly attributable to 4×4 usage. It needs to be repaired, but many would prefer if the repairs were sensitive to the nature of the surrounding environment and history of the history of the area. It would be preferrable if some of the track features are preserved, which would make it a more interesting route for all (whether on 2 wheels, 2 feet or 4 feet), rather than becoming a 3-4 metre wide gravel path.

2) Derbyshire CC have a history of non-consultation, and responding to single complaints and threats of legal action by flattening several byways and bridleways, often covering them in gravel or road planings.

When I first came to Sheffield 20 years ago I could ride down the entire causeway on a HT with 50-60mm of elastomer suspension (remember Manitou 3s?). Now the middle section has been torn up so much by the 4x4s that I either crash or give up and walk down that section. I’m sure it is currently impassable for horses. So personally I think it needs fixing so all premitted users can enjoy it. The sad part is that DCC only know how to fix it in one way 🙁

To volunteer as marshal I just mailed the organisers. Email address on their website.

I was a marshal last year, which took the pressure off, but even so with +1000 entries I was still fretting till the mail came in just after 8 this morning.

Good luck to anyone still waiting to here. If you’re unlucky to not get a place volunteer to marshal. Apart from the guaranteed entry next time, you’ll have a great time being close to the race. I know I did.

I can’t see you finding anything new for that money.It’ll have to be second hand. But like cynic-al says, you’ll need to check for worn components, otherwise she’ll soon have a bill for new parts.

I can’t help feeling that spending a few more £s now would be a better option.

How about a Giant Revel 2 from Pauls Cycles for just under £300?

Most/many of the straight steerer forks seem to be in Germany. Check out Bike24.

Are these any good?

Fox Racing Shox 32 Float 26 100 FIT CTD w/ Trail Adjust Fork white 2014

If you can get (or bodge) the correct adaptors you can borrow my headset press MrNice. You know where it lives.

So, if you accept that 26 Is Dead…

Can’t answer that question as I don’t. No plans to ever change wheel size on my MTBs

Sounds familiar … Did we have a chat about this in Hassop car park?

This may help. The topic comes up here quite often. A similar array of racks gets recommended each time.

I’m still voting for Atera Strada 🙂

They really need to ban bike changes altogether.

I marshalled last year; in part to guarantee my entry this year, but also to see the race first-hand.

I was surprised at the antics of some of the support crews where I was standing. I really felt that some of them were getting in the way of the competitors. The guy cycling up Pen-y-Ghent Lane on a MTB with two wheels strapped to his back in the middle of the field took the buscuit.

I’m having a bit of a Fulcrum wheelset nightmare myself with two rear wheels needing an overhaul at the same time.

I think the bearings for your hub are the same as on my Red Metal 1 XL hub (RMO-008), which is translates to 6804, and is available from any decent bearing supplier. You may be able to save a bit there.

I’m less sure about the bearings required for my freehub (same as yours). I’m waiting for a pair of circlip pliers before I can get at the inner bearing. Apparently the bearing is a pig to get out and worse to put the new one in.

I stumbled across the i-ride site too. It’s the UK site I can find stocking a range of Fulcrum spares. Together with the non-existent customer support from Fulcrum, I’ll be retiring these wheels if I can’t sort out the freehub bearings.

I’m having problems sourcing freehub body for two sets of Fulcrum wheels I have too. Pretty much impossible to find. I also echo Northwind’s comments on their after sales support … non-existent

I will never buy a Fulcrum wheelset again.

Colonel Mighty Dragon reporting for duty!

I went for vets category in a mad rush of blood to the head instead of fun, don’t know why.

Same race last year and the same decision for me. I got slaughtered. 😳

I’m enetering the fun category this year. It is a good race and friendly atmosphere.

Process of elimination. Remove, clean re-grease (as applicable), and re-tighten all likely culprits in sequence. Don’t discount anything. I recently had a creaky headset that I was convinced was a BB issue.

+1 for what Suggsey said about pedal/shoe combo – took me a while to figure out that was the source of a creak some time ago.

And don’t forget the weather. My creaky headset only creaked on warm days

@tmb467 : You could be right there. Thanks for the tip.

@bikewhisperer : You’re spot on about one of my Fulcrum wheels. When I popped out the bearings the inside seal had been removed – really surprising.

According to Fulcrum’s technical documents, the Red Power 1 XL hub needs a RMO-008 bearing, which I think is a 6804 (32mmx20mmx7mm). Of course Fulcrum’s customer service dept have been no help whatsoever – I’m beginning to think Dave Hinde is working for them

For me, the fact that you have posted your thoughts on here tells me that you (and your wife) need professional support not just the STW take on the world. I would urge you to do that before doing anything else. Also, take a moment and ask yourself these two questions:

1) How would you feel if your wife planned to have an afair and didn’t express her frustrations and despair to you? How hurt would you be when you find out? Speaking about this may be hard, but I’m sure you don’t want to hurt her in this way.

2) Are you ready to explain to your kids (one day) that you cheated on their mum and had an affair? One day you will have to.

Your relationship with your wife may be broken, but the one with your kids doesn’t have to be. It would be better to sort out your current relationship before starting another.

Good luck

A spare set of wheels would be nice, but that’ll have to wait for now

I’ve just encountered that exact problem with those same hubs. The freehub body is held onto the hub by a bolt (similar to Shimano hubs), but it’s not a hex. It is rounder with several grooves (best way I can describe it).

It is the part at the bottom of page 19 of this Fulcrum manual immediately to the right of the axle in the exploded components diagram.

http://www.fulcrumwheels.com/system/documents/files/TECH_MANUAL_2012_FULCRUM_OFF-ROAD_ENG.pdf

A 10mm Allen key goes straight through. Maybe an 11mm will engage ok, but I don’t have one to hand.

@f757lkk – did you get to the bottom of this?

I’ve had a strap-on rear rack, roof bars, and now an Atera Strada. IMO they are all a PITA in one way or another.

I still prefer the Atera Strada, but the “arm clamps” can be a pain to get in place. The approach I now take is to always alternate the orientation of bikes, but the key has been to start with the smallest bike first. The arms on the Strada are curved, so will pass over a low top tube as opposed to having to thread them through the frame.

Backwards/forwards compatibility is worse these days than say 6 or 7 years ago: time was loads more stuff worked with loads more stuff and all you seemed to worry about was steerer length.

I agree with sentiment. The second-hand market has more factors to consider.

I recently sold a Cotic Hemlock with a straight 1 1/8″ steerer. I tried it on STW for a week at what I thought was a reasonable price. Got some interest, but no-one bought it. I felt the price was ok, but the steerer tube was maybe the issue with potential buyers looking around for forks to fit.

I gave up on STW and put it on eBay with a BIN price £30 more than it had been advertised on STW. I sold it within 24hr.

Price is a factor, but getting enough people to see your ad is up there. eBay has it’s problems, but it can also be useful.

theonlywayisup – Member
I have a small Cotic Hemlock for sale in the classifides – fine if you’re 5’9″ or less (according to Cotic size chart). That’ll work fine with your 150mm fork.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-cotic-hemlock-frame-small-and-shock-200-202

… err, no I don’t. Just checked and it sold on eBay a couple of minutes ago 😳

I have a small Cotic Hemlock for sale in the classifides – fine if you’re 5’9″ or less (according to Cotic size chart). That’ll work fine with your 150mm fork.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-cotic-hemlock-frame-small-and-shock-200-202

I’m waiting for someone to buy my Cotic Hemlock frame and shock so I can look forward to waiting for the HT frame that is going to replace it to be delivered.

Check out my post in the “for sale” section if you’d like to shorten my waiting time

Does this help?

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/rockshox-monarch-rt3-basic-set-up-tuning-guide-tips-888218.html

endurokid – Member
Thanks all, I think I’ll be giving him a wide berth!!

Phew. That could have gone badly wrong. Good decision.

Try Sky Rides. Some city events on closed roads, but they also run family friendly rides.

http://www.goskyride.com/