I recently bought one. Sent it back after 24 hr. Too much lateral play to be of any use. Little rubber o rings to keep the gauge in place were not fit for purpose. Lastly, the grub screw on mine had no slot or Allen key recess.

Thanks, will take a look at those suggestions

I bought my last lot of DT Swiss spokes from Hewitt Cycles. Good range in stock and fair pricing.

Just came across this thread today. I’d been looking for some real world experience of using the ShiftMate or Tanpan devices a few weeks ago. So far my own experience hasn’t been great … maybe it’s just me and I’m not as handy with a 5mm allen key as I think 🙂

Briefly, I tried the Tanpan and couldn’t get it to work for more than a few shifts. The cable kept slipping and the indexing quickly went out of sync. Seems like Wolftooth are aware of this and have a new pulley wheel design “Our latest pulley wheel design features a cable set screw. This ensures the cable does not slip. Contact jackh@wolftoothcomponents.com for replacement of first generation wheels. Include your shipping address and which wheel you need (SH-10 or SH-11).” http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/tanpan-installation-instructions

Next I tried a Jtec ShiftMate 6. Similar design, but the sharp edge at the cross-over point seemed to stop any slippage initially. Worked “ok” on a few rides, but always needed a bit of tinkering and shifts weren’t as good as with the non-clutch 9 speed mech (maybe to be expected because of the increased drag from the clutch? I tried re-setting it up from scratch last night with a new cable and just can’t get the indexing to hold.

Coming back to the Tanpan. Weeks ago I had tried to get in touch with Wolftooth to request a replacement pulley wheel, but they never replied at the time. So 18Bikes were really good and took the Tanpan device back as a return. Now, 3-4 weeks later, a replacement pulley wheel from Wolftooth landed on my doorstep out of the blue. So I’m thinking I need to go back to 18Bikes and give the Tanpan another go. Like others have said, this is something I’d like to see working for the 3 Peaks.

Bit of an update …

I went for the Lindarets Tanpan SH-10. Set-up was easy. Indexing was good, but that didn’t last long. After a couple of times up and down the cassette with the bike on the stand the indexing was out of sync.

Seems like I’ve got a Tanpan with the first generation pulley wheel (i.e. the one that doesn’t have a cable set screw), which has cable slip problems. From the online instructions it seems that Wolftooth are aware of this issue and are offering a replacement pulley wheel (http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/tanpan-installation-instructions).

So it’s a case of waiting for a reply and hoping they’ll send the replacement promptly.

Me on Whernside

Bicarbonate works a treat

Man thanks cyclistm

Mavic Razor is the shoe that best fits my narrow feet.

In the past I’ve had a pair of Northwave shoes, and like you they were way to wide. Shimano shoes have been ok for me depending on the model.

I doubt I’ll change from Mavic from now on. I’m a narrow size 7 in a regular shoe, but find that Mavic 8 is perfect.

cookeaa – Member
If the FH jammed/stuck, I can see how it might reel the mech in, once it’s pulled the cage far enough to yank it over and get caught in the spokes it’s the leverage of the wheel acting on the mech that’s going to finish the job, rotating clockwise (facing the driveside) that will pull the hanger back (further towards the rear)… Does this sound right?

Looking at the broken hanger it is definitely twisted in towards the spokes as well as backwards. What you’ve described does sound about right. Cheers. I’ll have a look to see why the freehub is a bit “draggy”

Nipper99 – Member
But did you manage to finish?

Sadly, I didn’t finish. Taken off in the broom wagon of shame.

Looking at the snapped mech hanger it would appear that it was bent backwards, which is the opposite of what I thought could have happened. I’m confused 🙁

The only other thing I’ve noticed when examining the mech is that the bottom jockey wheel isn’t running very smoothly, but not sure if that is a pre or post-damage issue.

York isn’t a million miles away from Sheffield. Perhaps Richard at Fit4 Physio could help you out?

http://www.fit4-physio.co.uk/bike-fitting/

One more option to add to the mix is Julie Phelan

I can vouch for the Niner RLT. First new frameset I’ve had for a while that I am really happy with – it just feels “right” on whatever terrain I take it for a ride.

How did this story turn out?

Thanks psycorp

I had a quick chat with eBay – should I also talk to PayPal separately?

eBay person was very helpful too. Will be doing the pictures tonight and have some follow up with them.

The money is insignificant, but this is now a matter of principle.

Here’s what happened next …

So the buyer did send me the part back (at my expense). Well when I say he sent me it back, I mean he sent me SOME of it back.

He removed the bolt and fixing hardware and replaced those bits with some old worn out parts from an old one he clearly already had. The pins on the hardware are bent. The U-clip that holds the bolt in place isn’t tight, and the bolt is so sloppy in the arm of the tensioner that it’s clearly had a lot of use. It’s not the same component I sold that had little more than 6 months light commuting Spring-Autumn. In fact, I’d never have sold a part in that state.

Leading up to the return his comments were …

“It does not go on my vertical dropout i put my gear derailer back on to test it make sure it wasnt my bike still the same problem would think its the bolt on the tensioner would like a refund today”

“The bolt appears to look slightly smaller on the tensioner from the standard one on my gear derailer as that goes on without issues.”

“The bolt on the tensioner must be defective as these usually fit all bike dropouts with the allen bolt Must be the bolt i know how to install them and have done on my previous bikes without a problem i think as it was on your bike for awhile it might have got so use to your bike that it wont go in my thread hole as my gear derailer i tested it and went on without this issue thats my take on it.”

“As its obvious these bolts do thread perhaps it was threaded in to yours so no good for another use”

He seems to have a bolt fixation, and I’d half expected that the item would be returned without “my” bolt still attached to it.

I’ll mail him tonight and tell him I got his return and will happily process his refund once he returns the rest of the item. I’ll report the miss-use of returns to eBay too. In the end I guess I’ll lose out as eBay will invariably side with the buyer.

Thanks all for sharing your thoughts and experiences. In over 200 transactions this is the first muppet I’ve come across on eBay, but he doesn’t seem as bad as others. It’s going to be interesting to see what (if anything) he returns to me in the post this week.

Try Bike24. They have a few that meet your spec

I recently switched to Hastings. Bikes are covered on their policy. No experience of a claim.

Niner RLT 9 is definitely worth a look

Just bought one of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/colnago-fork-expander/rp-prod70234

Works well.

It’s been a week of frustration, but seeing as I have fixed the problem I had, I thought I’d post up the resolution to close out this topic on a happy note.

Top line summary: A good example of a misdiagnosed problem

The reason the expander bolt was slipping was simply because I was tightening the pre-load bolt too much. Effectively pulling the expander bolt out of the steerer tube. I did replace it with the Colnago one, which is 90mm long and offers good support to the tube, but that didn’t make a difference.

So why was the headset still loose and causing juddering when using the front brake? Basically, the headset wasn’t loose. My LBS confirmed that I’d set it up correctly.

So I figured the headset may be damaged. The expander ring didn’t appear to be a snug fit inside the bearing or around the steerer tube. I replaced the headset, but that made no difference either.

Brake callipers and disks were tight, so I couldn’t see a problem there, but I was wrong. The disks are of the wavy variety and the contact surface with the pads varied as the disk rotated. This was exacerbated on the front as I’d used the supplied spacers (5mm) as per Hayes instructions, which was reducing the contact area with the disk further. The pads on the front were worn unevenly, with more pad remaining on the top edge. When I swapped the pads over (front to back) I noticed the rear wheel braking was very juddery too. Fresh pads solved the problem.

It may be sufficient to have removed the spacer, but I’m going to get some round rotors, as once the new pads start to wear I guess the problem will return. Why are rotors wavy anyway?

Happy to have a solution. Less happy that I didn’t diagnose it sooner. Another thing to mark down as a lesson learned and move on 🙂

Aye, there’s enough spacers. I event popped a really big one on there, which allowed me to keep turning the stem bolt and pull the expander bung out further.

I’ve put some carbon assembly paste on and will wait for it dry a bit overnight.

If that doesn’t work I’ll get one of those BBB ones.

Cheers for all the suggestions.

I’ve put in a different expander plug off another bike, which may be the BBB one mentioned.

Will check and give the paste a go.

Thanks, I’ll give that a go. The inner surface of the steerer tube hasn’t been roughed up yet. I’ve got some carbon paste too.

I’ve pushed it back down, and torqued it up more than I’d have liked (14Nm), but it’s still the same. Slips every time. Thinking about using glue to give a bit of grip.

26er and no plans to change … ever!

Peaks rider here …

I’ve recently gone 1×10 on my cx/gravel bike, which gets some road duties too (38T chainring, 11-36, with a 40T expander that I occasionally use). The reason for going 1×10 was to remove the clutter around the BB area to reduce the mud build up in cx races. For that it works. I’m less convinced on the chainline at the extremes of the cassette, but will see how that goes. Overall I have enough gears.

On the MTB I’m sticking with 2×9. When the shifters or rear mech need replacing maybe I’ll go for a 1x? set-up, but I’m not yet convinced that is better.

Recently bought a Niner RLT – aluminum with 27.2 carbon seat post. It’s more forgiving on long rides than my carbon CX bike. I’m doing the Dirty Driver 200 too, and wouldn’t want to do it on the CX bike.

Same here, gone

You could try one of these: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BBTPBB30/tripeak-bb30-converter

I have the equivalent PF30 sleeve, but not installed it yet. From the installation video I think it’ll accommodate the 1mm step within the shell that you described.

I have the same headset press, but no means to measure it accurately.

However, I have just bodged some basic press adaptors from some thick polymer sheet and used a 16mm drill for the centre. So I’d agree with the previous comments on it being at least 16mm.

Just found the Wheels mfg 46mm BB spacer set. Sorted. Thanks

Are these the answer to my own question?

Wheels MFG sell 24mm spacers to center the cranks rather than space out the bottom bracket. I thought the crank spindle was machined for the bearings to sit at specific points. Not sure I’m keen to just add spacers outside the BB cups. Must be OK though?

hounslow – Member
We use the threaded Wheels MFG ones at work. No complaints so far.

I’ve just been looking at those. I can’t figure something out…

My BB shell is 68mm. If I was running a standard BB I’d need 2 spacers on the drive side, and one on the non-drive side to space the width out to run a MTB crankset.

I can’t see how this’ll work with the wheels mfg one.

Thanks for the replies …

Stedlocks

I put the FSA one in my spearfish and its a TIGHT fit!

I guess it has to be. I have a good headset press I could use, or is it a job for the LBS? Does the FSA one get fitted dry or with something like Loctite?

@Dekerf853 – I hadn’t thought about cable routing. I’ll need to look into that now as I think I’m going to have the same problem you described

Loads of 3 Peaks photos here[/url].

Chris Meads has some photos from Ribblehead

Good effort from everyone taking part, and a big thanks to all the organisers, marshals and supporters.

It was my second and I managed to beat last year’s time by 5 minutes so I’ve got to be pleased with that (4h 20m 55s). Like many, I feel like I’ve left something out there on the course.

I was close to all my target times for getting close to a 4hr ride, but I pinch-flatted going down the slabs off Whernside. It cost me ~10 minutes, and I spent the rest of the ride convinced I’d not got enough air back in the tyre, and holding back to defend against another puncture. Lesson learned; back to Landcruisers next year. From Ribblehead to the end I was fighting against cramps in my legs, so never felt like I could really put the hammer down.

Apart from Whernside most of the Strava segments were PRs over last year, so I was going well (for me). Sub 4hr10m is doable. I’ll be back next year for sure …