Been looking for one for months myself! Your two best options for a frame are:

Intec – give them a google, lots of models, all the German forums rate them!

A second hand rig – post up in the wanted section!

Definitely want – will it also work with the new Thomson remotes that have the screw? (Irritating decision, could have just got a nice crank brothers remote)

Really? Looking at getting some rather than high roller 2’s.. what’s the width like of the 2.25 and profile/air volume? More info please! 😀

Exciting stuff if it’s true, going cheap right now and I’ve read the durability is meant to be ace..

oh – OTHER OPTION: if you’re planning on running without a chainguide then you can simply keep your granny and manually shift it down for that hour long upwards stuggle. If the up is shorter there are two options htfu. or 1×10 is not for you – it isnt for everyone! 🙂 (several ews racers run 2×10)

If you can the xt medium cage with a RAD plate is the most reliable/functional way of doing it short of going for the sram xx1. Anything else requires some bodging and a bit of luck 🙂

Cool, thank you! Fatbirds does the tnt versions for £26 – reckon its worth it for the extra protection 😀 hope the 2.25 is wide enough 😆

thanks tymbian! I actually meant the Geax Goma (cheapest I’ve found is £26 for the tnt version). I would have gone straight to the on-one but they’re not doig 650b versions yet – when they do 😀

Where from? Looking around and they seem to have a really good durability rating and at that price!! Also, 2.2 or 2.4?

I’m in a similiar position and getting high roller 2 2.3 😆 not a huge change, but hell, if you like them and just want them a bit smaller/lighter.. get the same ones just smaller/lighter! Orrr grin and bear it, it’s all extra training 😈

True precision – quality, instant pick-up, totally silent – switchable axles (for the future) whats not to love?

Nope, not at all, took 5cm off – there is still over 13!

It’s an Alan Race (Make/Model), one of the later models – full carbon monoque – 2010 I think. A nice bike.

A bump for this – what happened in the end? Would be dead keen to know – looking at the same things myself.

Bump. Any thoughts now people have ridden them for a while? Looks like a nice frame!

Okay, let me rephrase that – I expect this built to last me for the next four years and beyond as I cannot foresee a moment when I can build such a nice bike again until perhaps early 30’s. Considering theres a chance I could also be dead by then I consider that lifetime 😆

The nicolai thing – I didnt have any parts for the build then and it hacked me off too much. Custom builders, ditching 26″ yet only offering it with a huge surcharge despite changing in the month I was going to buy the frame – P*ss off. Otherwise think they’re a nice brand!

Thanks for any opinions offered so far – What I’d really like to know is the rationale behind them! 🙂

As for ‘too easy’ everyone I ride with is on a full sus and they have fun, the short go’s I’ve had have been fun, just different. I suppose I’ve always felt that getting thrown around is part of mtb-ing.. of course it could be to do with finding new limits/riding style on a big big-bouncer?

Hello! Sorry for the resurrection, but what was the outcome? The bikes on the whole look amazing, but lack of 2014 27.5 reviews and the bushings instead of bearings is making me wary… Is the latter perhaps the cause for the slop?

Bit cheeky – but a derby rim is wiiiiiddddee, stiff, strong and no nipples needed for carbon. I wouldnt recommend touring on it.. but you should definitely have two sets of wheels anyway 😉 😆

In the same boat as ‘seventyfive’ – I cant see any difference between the forks other than the difference in a-c. It would result in a head angle slacker by 0.7 roughly.. My guidlines would be el mariachi mtb – firestarter el mariachi touring machine – fargo fork

ratherbeintobago – they do for the worlds ss champs 😯

Ahh… ahaha! Seen there’s still the compulsory tattoo if you win (s’on the fb page) looks rather nice, might have to try and not drink too much

and signed up! Wahoo! Now.. not making friends with stw members…
*genius idea* come in costume so no-one will talk to me
*it’s the ss champs, most people will be in costume and/or too drunk to notice* 😆

A query – is this run by the guys who put on the Single Speed world championships with the compulsory winners tattoo or by the Blokes who put on last years UK SS champs?

Your best bet is doing a custom build. Plenty of ss disc hubs out there, plenty of nice rims – get going! 😀

whoops, sorry – I tried a google and forum search, but came up with nothing, so posted! Yeah, I hear great things about it! 😀

Yeah, I was desperately hoping he’d have an El Mariachi frame, but full prices it seems 😮

Heya scud, thanks for the offer, although I’m pretty settled on the bikes front! Also, you have a fatbike.. ahh man I’m jealous, I’d like one just for those rare rare times you’d get to use it! I’m more than up for ride if you’re around though – might be worth making a post for it, getting a group together? I’m only just back to Norwich so I’ll have to find my way around Mousehould again.

SS – thanks, I’ve spent alot of time on there, but still waiting to hear back for an account! Soon as I have one, I’ll follow up 🙂

Interesting! My only confusion then is why the need for spacers, surely the distance between the top-cap and bearing should remain the same? Unless it is purely a design to allow for rubber seal wear, in which case kudos to Hope (Y) (surprised they dont advertise it tho!)

A small bump for the afternoon

Thanks all for the links and thoughts – I have spent hours on each of those sites already 😆

In reply to some of your queries/suggestions, I originally thought the same, however… The tour is not just a bikepacking trip, otherwise, yes just frame bags! (I plan to have them as well as the panniers!!) It is instead going to be a rather extended tour where I’ll be camping and as self sufficient as possible. Furthermore I’m hoping to combine it with woofing for which I’ll need working clothes etc.

The idea behind the set-up is a. to pack the rear rack light. e.g. tent and clothes. and use a framebag setup as standard. Then to have a rohloff as I want to be riding as off-road as possible and perhaps spend a few days at the norwegian bike parks, and then also do xc riding between now and then/afterwards. For these reasons it makes sense for me to go the igh route where mud/external mechs wont wear/get smashed into pieces. In the Uk this is less of a worry, further afield, more so. Of course, budgeting might enforce a standard gear set-up 😮

Intersting Waldo, thanks for the info – I had heard that the standard ones can run 650B, but I’m having trouble finding this info on the net again and as I want to run chunky tyres on wiiide rims upfront I’m a bit cautious about it! (might have to start a thread 😆 )

I’m surprised no-ones asked.. but what’s your riding style like? The bike set up seems pretty burly – If you’re riding warrants this then all more credit to you (i edge on the side of safety when it comes to parts), but otherwise air back and front – which if you sold both your current ones you could easily do. The fusion Vengeance is meant to be on a par with the pike according to some reviews + proved long term reliability!! And general lightening of the bike. New rubber, a wheel build around your current hubs, the works! 😀

(as an aside, if anyone happens to be selling some 650B devilles.. 😀 160 or 150 please. ingegneremaurizio AT gmail DOT com Grazie! )

😆
I meant the site I’m ordering from lets you choose the number of spokes. Right all ordered now, gone without washers etc. Seems like no-one uses them, which should point to them not being needed, and the extra hassle. Now, everyone seems to be fine with whatever grease you have lying around at the time.. we’ll see! Still think copper antisieze sounds good – acts like grease, but dosnt wash out and dosnt set.

yep, buying them 1 piece at a time so i reckon I’m going to order 35 of each and call it a day.

ah but the 260 is the correct length for half and 262 is the correct length. But it seems from what people are saying it shouldnt matter too much? In which case there seems to be no harm doing the build ‘anally’ with a mixture of 260’s and 262’s and then for spares I can use 262’s!

Thanks for the advice all!
Clubber -can i just hear your reasoning why to use 262’s? As much as I’d like to have just one spoke length, surely the ‘safest bet’ is to use 32 260’s and 32 262’s?

Dont worry, I’m not adjusting for longer spokes – especially as the sapim ones dont have longer internal threads. I’m curious as to why you (in your previous post) suggest a more ‘substantial’ spoke? from all the research I have done it seems cx-rays are more than qualified for the job. They’re used on some dh wheels and regularly with alu rimsetc. I am using deep section carbon rims with high flange hubs which should build a very stiff wheel. Then cx-rays have the highest fatigue life and tensile strength so should be the most durable, and at a higher tension, most reliable spokes of choice?

I have no qualms building with ‘straight’ spokes, I was just thinking of cx rays xD any more opinions on spoke length etc?

Interesting.. Am considering one for bikepacking. Will watch this thread with interest 😀

Wasnt aware of the twangy? Es[ecally seeing as tehy are offered with flows, which arent particularly stiff! Also, I’m not concerned about a vastly stiff wheel build, there is a point of no returns! 😛 I choose them based on ‘want’ and having the best fatigue life (so longest product life) and being oval, fits normal spoke holes but allows grip to lessen spoke build up (less hassle than two on, one off imho)

Me? None 😯 Done spoke replacements, plenty of truing etc. but first wheel build, I’m happy to take my time

any reccomendations for other spokes? The rims are carbon so stiff as hell anyway, durability is really important, then comes weight, then comes price. To be used on a DH hardtail (that will l also be used for peaks ragging, ‘enduro’, mega, ard ‘rock’ that sort of thing!) Although I do have spokes I’d be happy -ish ordering matching DT ones if theres a strong argument for it

Ah the purple locktite I reffered to is actually not a ‘locking’ formula, it penetrates inside threads to help release and re-sets itself when back in place (unlike blue locktite!)

From what your both saying, anti-sieze seems like the best bet them? Dries out slower than grease, is meant for components that you want to remove again (unlike locktite 😆 )?

Ahh, another person that says 262 – many thanks! I know, +/-1mm is fine, it’s just a lot of money for spokes so I wanted some re-assurance!

Ahh, that explains the spoke washers (it will be silver spokes/nipples) – but from the sonds of it there is no need! Nipple wzshers might make sense, although no-one else seems to build with them – which given their reported benefits seems strange!