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Viewing 40 posts - 561 through 600 (of 667 total)
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  • TheGhost
    Free Member

    Yes

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’m running a non boost slx single ring chainset on a mk 1 Transmitter.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Fitting non boost depends on your frame. I have done it on my Sonder Transmitter but I have boost on my Chameleon.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    WTB Asym i35 rims

    Maxxis Minion DHF 2.8 on the front

    Maxxis HR 2.8 on the back

    175mm cranks, but I would recommend 170mm if you ride rocky trails because the bottom bracket is nice and low. This also depends on the fork travel you choose.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    @brassneck

    I have these wheels which I ordered from amazon. Boost, cheap, light and strong and tubeless compatible. Used them for two years. The cartridge bearings are easy to change and are a standard size.

    https://www.ridewill.it/p/en/ridewill-bike-r27tw35-wheelset-mtb-275-sym-i35-boost-disc-8-11s-shimano-black/147120/


    @theupsetter

    I’m using 27.5+ with my fox 34 Rhythm 130mm form germany if that helps

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’m running a one up chain guide which fits boost cranks and tidys up the front mech mounting nicely.

    Chain Guide – Low Direct Mount (S3/E-type)

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    One bonus of a chameleon is that the headset is just two bearings that push into the frame, there are no cups. If you go for a hope the crown race also pushes on. Lol no tools required.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’m on a XL with a 35mm stem and 800mm bars. At 6’2” it’s spot on with super fast steering. Running 27.5+ with the chainstays all the way in feels great jumping off stuff. 130mm fork fitted as well.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’ve been using mine with 2.5 29er DHFs and they have fitted fine.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Will be sticking my Pikes on once I’ve serviced them. They aren’t as smooth as the Foxs but they are slightly stiffer and better for jumping off stuff.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Fox 34 Rythm 130mm here. The cheap ones from Germany. Brilliant for £200

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I don’t think a frozen cable is a failed dropper post.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Riding bikes on the road is not safe. :-(

    Go in the car and then ride off road when you get home.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Brillant bike, great with a 35mm stem and 800mm bars. Goes around corners very well. And down hills like a fast thing.

    XL could be a bit taller in the head tube though.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’ve got a Solaris Max and a the newest Chameleon.

    They are both brilliant but different sizes. I’m 6’2” , my cotic is a large, running a 60mm stem. The Chameleon is a XL running a 35mm stem. So they both fit the same but the Chameleon steers faster.

    I’m keenest on the SC at the moment probably because the stays are nice and short when wound all the way in. Its more flickable than the Solaris Max and better for more aggressive riding.

    However, the Cotic is a great mile muncher and very stable. And prettier.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Hats off. Great film.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I’ve ridden my Solaris Max a lot with 27.5+ and 29 inch wheels, and it handles better with 27.5+ because they are smaller in diameter.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    My Santa cruz Chameleon has shortish stays when wound all the way in using 27.5+

    It’s more  flickable than th Solaris Max when launching off stuff if that helps.

    TheGhost
    Free Member
    TheGhost
    Free Member

    The 2.5 is the one to get. The 2.3 is almost cyclocross

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    My son is on a Nukeproof snap that I built him when he was nine. Doesn’t seem too long. I started with a 50mm stem and now he’s on a 70mm aged 11. He is quite tall though.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I know that seems like the logical thing to do but I’ve always followed shimano law and gone on the right. Will the world end if I do it?

    TheGhost
    Free Member
    TheGhost
    Free Member

    2.8 DHF on 27.5+ up front. No problems at all in the mud.

    2.5 DHF on 29 up front – good but less grippy in the mud than plus. Faster though, just not as much fun downhill.

    Thats what I’m riding at the moment.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Anyone else running 130mm on a Chameleon? I’m just about to start a 27.5+ build but can decide if I should go 120 or 130?

    Madness I know.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    My bad just seen the J Cup spec. :-)

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    The lower headset is IS52. I don’t think hope do that size. Just mentioning for clarity. I too have a Chameleon frame making it’s way to my garage.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Buy Both :-)

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Brilliant replies STWers.

    I’ll give it a go :-)

    Thanks

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Solaris Max here with both sets of wheels. Both great. Plus is my favourite.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I found rolling resistance on the road depends on the tyre. Nobby nics weren’t good for me on roads. The maxxis Dhf and Highroller 2s seem just like normal sized tyres though. I’ve done some long rides on them and not thought about it.

    Plus is a scale thing. If you are large they work well because they are in scale with the rider. I think we need size appropriate testing of equipment by STW

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=370611&hilit=Cotic

    I’ve got 2 Solaris Maxs.

    One set up with 27.5 + 2.8 Grippy tyres which is brilliant downhill and feels the right size for me at 6’2

    One set up 29 with grippy 2.5 Dhfs for the rubbish weather, or to use if I want to go as fast as possible.

    I have had loads of steel frames including yeti fro, explosives, blizzards, souls, indy fabs and a sherpa. The Solaris Max is the one I have liked the most so far. If you stamp on the pedals and give it some, it just takes off like there is a motor fitted. The first time it happened It took me by surprise. Brilliant tyre clearance now too.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Wild Turkey

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    I think it’s also about how big you are. Plus might be unstable in the slop with low grip tyres and a light rider.

    Take a 2.8 DHF and a 15 stone 6footer and you have a tyre in proportion to your rider

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    2.8 dhf on the front and HR2 on the back. Pretty solid.

    Also swap to 29er wheels to keep up with the cross country boys. Although I am fitting 2.5 Dhfs to them.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Fox DOSS 4 – years never touched it – still working :-)

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Thanks chaps,

    I have the spacer. Just making sure :-)

    Cheers

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Is a 35mm stem loads different to a 50mm stem in the way it feels to ride? 50mm is the shortest I’ve gone, what am I missing?

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Geek moment:

    Soul Mk1 medium
    590 ETT
    424 reach
    90 stem (85 extension)
    675 ETT+stem
    509 reach+stem

    Soul Mk5 medium
    636 ETT
    458 reach
    35 stem (32 extension)
    668 ETT+stem

    Soul mk 1 = narrowish bars 600-700mm
    Soul mk 5 = 800mm+ bars

    I think adding 20mm on bar width pulls you forward about the same as adding 10mm on stem length. So if I ride a 50mm stem with a 800mm bar and then switch to a 780mm bar I can put a 60mm stem on and it will feel roughly the same. That might be madness but in my head it works.

    My Solaris Max is running a 50mm stem with 800mm bars. I’m 6’2” and the large feels just right. It is the first bike I’ve had that has felt long enough for a while.

    TheGhost
    Free Member

    Silver colour looks great

Viewing 40 posts - 561 through 600 (of 667 total)