RC627 vs Sherpa

The Sherpa was a normal hardtail like the old Cotic souls and RM Blizzards. It was comfy flexed well and felt fast but neutral. It was also short so I was running a 60-70mm stem.

The Pace feels like its pushing me up the hills.
It smooths the ride but doesn’t squirm when I put the power down.
Downhill It turns between the trees before I have thought to turn the bars. I swear its possessed and reading my mind. It is the most enjoyable bike to ride.

I am running a 150mm Fox 36 ebike fork which is amazing, and a 31.5mm stem and 2.6 tires. Where as, on the Stanton I had a longer stem and a 120mm fork with 2.2 tires.

Also worth noting is that a 29 inch hope enduro wheel with a 2.35 Hans dampf fits fine into the back of my RC627 with the dropouts slid all the way back. The bb is low to start with so this doesn’t raise it higher that a lot of 29ers.

I’m on a XL Pace RC627 it climbs and descends better than any of the other bikes I’ve had recently it is outrageous.

Previously I’ve tried

santa cruz Chameleon latest version
Cotic Solaris Max MK1
Sonder Transmitter
Stanton Sherpa
To my shame the list goes on

DT Swiss XM521

That’s brilliant

No idea what hubs are on the ridewill wheels, but it was very easy to change the bearings. The degree of movement is pretty high. There is slightly more rotation before engagement than on my Hope pro4 wheels.

What bike are you switching your RC529 for? I’m on a RC627 and it is the best thing since red M&Ms.

https://www.ridewill.it/p/en/ridewill-bike-r27tw35-wheelset-mtb-275-sym-i35-boost-disc-8-11s-shimano-black/147120/

I’ve had some of these for nearly 3 years and they have held up well.

I second the Spank Spike Vibrocores.

Homemade tubeless inflator

I made one of those coke bottle tubeless inflators for £2 and it has been brilliant when setting up tubeless.

I was also lucky when swapping some tires between wheels recently. I removed the front tire with the sealant in it from one wheel and fitted it to the new wheel without spilling a drop. To balance it out the gods punished my smugness by making me spill the back tires sealant everywhere.

Most manufacturers recommended tire widths are wrong.

They say things like 2.4 fits fine but actually they mean a 2.4 fits but only just. This means the actual max tire size you should fit in the frame is one size down. This has been my experience for years.

Take a Sonder Transmitter for example which is sold as a plus bike.

The Width between the chain stays is 77.1mm and the width of most 2.8s on wide rims is around 72mm. This is what the 2.8 nobby nics measured on love mud rims. This leaves 2.5mm tire clearence which is poor. If you factor in tire wobble/variation then on a perfectly true wheel its still coming very close to the stays.

Actually the max tire should be 2.6 and in the real uk mud a 2.4 is the best choice for clearance.

So while I agree with Brant that people will size up I also think manufacturers aren’t as honest with consumers as they could be. This goes for bike reviewers who never mention this stuff.

I have 2 sonder transmitters and they are still brilliant with smaller tires though.

The Deity TMAC is the best pedal on the planet. They are very grippy and come in adult size.

https://www.deitycomponents.com/tmac-signature-pedals.html

For 27.5 plus –

Winter

Front – Magic Mary 2.6
Rear. – Hans Dampf 2.6 (New version)

Summer

Front – Maxis DHF 2.8
Rear. – maxis DHR2 2.8

You’ll feel the length of the Solaris Maxs chainstays at Swinley in that twisty flat bit in the middle of the blue.

I switched from a solaris max to a Chameleon last spring and the difference was night and day in the tight twisty stuff at Swinley. The Chameleons 415mm chainstays make it much more agile. Where as the Cotics long chainstays make it very stable down hill.

I’m using 50mm rise Spank Spike Vibrocores at 800mm on my Hardtail. They feel great.

Low frontends are a pain on XL frames for tall people.

You could use a stem with some rise as well.

Oury Lock on are the softest i have found

The Solaris Max can be used with Both 27.5+ and 29er Wheels, the Bird Zero 29er is 29er only I think, dew to its low BB height.

With a 140mm Fork
Solaris Max BB drop 55.5mm Sagged
Bird Zero 29er BB drop 90mm Sagged

Gulp!!!

Cool cheers Murray

It’s Super Boost next anyway, so boost is on its way out.

Bike reviewers will soon start writing – “The frame comes with the standard Super Boost rear end spacing,” even before we can actually buy them, like they did with plus tires.

I’m running a 150mm fox 36 on my 627 and its great.

I’m in south Bucks.

Sorry, I’m after the nut only I have the bolt.

@Momo I put a 2.8 in the frame to take a look when it arrived. For reference it was a 2.8 Maxxis DHR2 on a DT Swiss 551 40mm internal rim.

With the dropouts all the way in, so the chainstays are shortest, the 2.8s fit but only just. I’d say they are boarderline. You would need to move the dropouts back to get enough clearance. Pace say the frame is designed around 2.6 which is what I’m running on 35mm internal rims. I get about 5mm clearance at the seatstays and a little more at the chain stays with a Hans Damphf 2 , so just enough.

I haven’t wound the dropouts back to see how much more clearence I’ll get.

I have the Chameleon and have had the 1st Solaris Max, and now also have a Pace RC627.

I ran the Chameleon 27.5plus and 29

I am running the Pace semi plus 27.5 with 2.6s

The Pace climbs and decends better than the Chameleon which I didn’t expect. I am on a XL frame and the geo is almost identical between the Pace and the SC. The pace is slacker at the head and steeper at the seat.

The chameleon is awesome, especially the short chainstays, but I think you want to run 140mm to get the best from it. This, unfortunately makes the seat angle a bit slack for climbing though. Also the headtubes are short ish with an internal headset so its hard to get the bars high enough if you are tall.
Finally, my 2019 frame has a maximum seatpost insertion depth of 215mm so I couldn’t use a fox transfer 150mm dropper. This can be overcome by using a oneup dropper instead though.

I had brilliant service from Pace when I bought my RC 627frame if that helps. On balance I also had brilliant backup from Santa Cruz Uk.

So hope just need to make a boost one.

Come on hope we want 88 because all the frame makers are obsessed with super low bottom brackets.

I’ve got Slx with 200mm / 180mm rotors at the moment.

They are ok but a bit squishy even after bleeding. I also want better hose routing that works for the chainstay routing on my frame.

I actually really like BB7s and have some on other bikes. I really want to try Paul Klampers but they won’t route well on a chainstay routing frame.

I think I’ll go XT over Deore because I can use the banjo to adjust the routing a little.

I picked up a new set of Fox 36 ebike forks for £400 for my RC627 recently and they are brilliant.

I’m running Spank Spike vibrocore 31.6 bars with 50mm rise.

I was using Santacruz Palmdale grips that gave me an extra 5mm per side like the deathgrips but I have switched to Oury lock-ons whicch clamp at both ends.

I think if you are quite big 800mm is a bit narrow.

Germany always seems cheaper.

I ordered some 2.6 tires from here recently and they were a good price.

https://r2-bike.com/

I’d get in quick and order all the stuff you need from europe before Brexit ruins everything.

That Trek looks brilliant.
Keep it.
Ride it.

Nice RC529!

I’d change the saddle, grips, pedals and chainring to black. 😊

Maybe a shorter stem to get the steering nice and fast.

Looks great though.

Sorry, normal to short length legs for my height

6’2”

175mm

I like his reviews.

I think the new classifieds are ok. They are just empty. There used to be a huge amount of stuff ticking through all the time. Now it hardly ever changes.

The German sites usually have some great deals. Get in quick before Brexit ruins everything.

Super boost 157?

All shimano will gradually change to 12speed, so that new freehub design will need to be a thing on more wheels and groupsets?

Wider stanchions and stiffer forks.
32 for kids,
34 for skinny grown ups,
36 for normal trail riding,
40 for enduro
44 for downhill.

Seat tubes will start getting wider to accommodate wider dropper posts now that front mechs have finally died.

More tyre inserts made from wonder materials that cost more than your tyres.

If you ride hard then you’ll not enjoy 2.8 tires on 30mm internal rims. They work best on 40mm internal, even 35mm is too smallif you are really pushing them in the corners.

Try 2.6 they will be better matched to your rims.

If you just pootle along ignore all of the above. 😊

130 headtube
30 Heaset (hope externalrough max)
40 stem stack height (hope)
30. Max amount of height for spacers

Max 230mm
Min 185mm with a lower stack headset a 30mm stack stem and no spacers at a squeeeze

Thats how I would work it out

A poky tool like a Bradawl is great for all sorts of poky stuff

I looked at this site the other day but disregarded it because I assumed it was a scam.

Is it safe?