I feel like I’m watching (whisper it – a slightly better version of) Dirt again, excellent stuff! Just needs Jez Avery and a Pro Flex now…

Thanks guys, will check them out.

Cheers – any particular ones that you think would suit a couple of sweaty cyclists needing fuel?

900m of climbing over 40 miles at 22mph average is seriously fast… I think you’ll cope.

What size and spec is the CAAD10 + how much are you going to be flogging it for? :)

Mine are all gay.

Good option if you have a bench vice is to get everything off the frame, then invert the lot and clamp the head of the seatpost in the vice – you can then use the leverage of the frame to get more freeing force onto it, and pull the frame off the post vertically upwards*. This may obviously cause some damage to that nice carbon head, but of the two the frame is the more valuable, so that would be preferable I guess!

*Stuck seatpost removal technique © SBC Cycles 2016[/url]

CaptainFlashheart – Member
Or Joss Ackland’s spunky backpack?

Or Shatner’s bassoon?

Can we park this thread for 5 years and then revive it so we can actually understand how it all panned out?

I think I have wideish feet but have not had any biking shoes that actually fit properly. Thinking about some new road shoes, so far I am set on either Bontrager Velocis or DMT R3 – anyone know where in London you can try DMTs on? Nowhere seems to stock them… :?

As already mentioned in here – you will be amazed how fast you go on this, with the combination of the bunch and the closed roads. I am doing well if I can average close to 20mph on any ride by myself, and I was quietly hoping I’d get under 5 hours for the Ride100 in 2015 on that basis. I got 4h19m, which I was staggered by – 23mph average for the ride.

Disc road wheels – get some Hunts[/url], very very nice for the money.

I heard about that ride on 10,000km CC – I was contemplating going down for a few laps on Saturday morning but didn’t get a chance. Excellent effort, very impressive!

Schwalbe Ones recommendation here too, saw them yesterday at Ribble for £46 a pair in 25mm.

G or tubeless aside, I much prefer my regular Schwalbe Ones to the sets of GP4000s I had previously. They roll beautifully, and cut up / puncture a lot less than the Contis used to, IME.

One of these on my Pomp
– it does the job nicely.

No personal experience here, but I would guess that having another force kicking your cranks round at what would otherwise be the “off” part of your pedal stroke would be disruptive to smooth pedalling…?

Good timing, I need to sort a new one as well. Quick query – does anyone use / know if you can use any of these providers on a Raspberry Pi running Kodi? I am thinking about setting one up as a media centre option, and would like to be able to run a VPN on it as and when… any pointers gratefully received.

That ^^^ mirrors my experience almost word for word – for all its irritating flaws, I have ridden thousands of miles with it all over the world and never actually got lost or not managed to do a planned ride using it, as far as I can remember.

Just this morning I rode 40 miles into work with it. Yes, after around 30 miles it didn’t notice I’d completed a turn it was flagging up, so I then lost turn-by-turn for the rest of the ride, but I got there! :lol:

I get and use KMC chains, mainly because they’re all much of a muchness and they come with a quick link included, so nice and easy.

I would have thought that even if you did go to her parents, they would be unlikely to engage and it would be pretty unlikely to get the outcome you’re after.

a. Try contacting her a few times by whatever means you have (if you have one – if not go directly to b.).

b. After that I’d give it up as a lost cause.

RidewithGPS on alternately Talky Toaster and OpenStreetMap at the moment. Both are giving me mixed success at the moment as of a few months ago – I’m getting the odd “Route Calculation Error” and can’t work out why.

I always assumed the lock to road option was to pin a ride you’re recording to a road that follows the route you’re taking, if the GPS signal is poor. I have noticed that it will sometimes show you slightly off the side of a road, and the blue line showing your route as being recorded is moved slightly to the side so it follows the road. I could be wrong, of course, just my experience from use.

mooman – same here, absolutely perfect from leaving the house in the morning in the dark to direct bright sun. Love it.

Excellent, I’ll get it loaded up tonight and test it out. As usual mine was mostly fine yesterday, though the quirk of the day was not giving me my first turn direction until about 3 miles in. Other than that mostly perfect :)

Essentially it is, yes – various sized press faces for the cups and bearing races, and then the hex section which inserts into the non drive side cup to screw the sleeve into the other cup.

The large fixed hex section of the tool is 27mm, and the hex head is slightly smaller – at a guess 24mm or 25mm looking at the difference in size on that basis.

In the interests of balance, I should update that I took the bike out for two decent length rides over the weekend and the BB appears smoother than ever, and also crucially creak-free throughout.

Promising progress, and now that I have taken apart and reassembled the BB entirely with personal TLC I am more enamoured with it! :)

Ok, job done – nothing like making good use of a Friday night, means I can take that bike away with me for the weekend now!

Daffy, cheers, bearings and cups actually came out without too much trouble and less than I was fearing.

So, everything installed properly, liberal grease in the right places and all nice and nipped up tight. Cranks spinning ok, let’s hope that’s done the trick! If not, maybe the creak is something else! :)

Ha – I wasn’t actually thinking of that, more laughing in resigned despair that the complications could well not yet be over… :(

Daffy – Member
The removal of mine was a complete PITA.

Hopefully (an given that you have some creaking) your cups will be looser than mine.

Oh god :lol:

I’ve never been involved in the installation or removal / refitting process of mine, so I can’t be sure. I’m hoping not, and that now that I have the correct tool, once I have done so it will be sweet as a proverbial nut…

ok, having got the summer bike out again recently, the creak has worsened – I suspect due to a recent service at a shop who didn’t have the right tool and have made the problem worse. :x

I now have the tool, and will be attempting a removal a full clean and liberal regrease of all bits, and a reinstallation. If anything goes wrong during the tapping out for removal or if after all that the creak hasn’t gone then I’m giving up on the whole thing and going Shimano instead! Anyway, I am in North London and now have the tool, so if anyone needs to borrow it at some point it may be possible!

Exactly, or the equally annoying thing of as soon as you miss one turn by a few metres you don’t get any more directions for the rest of the ride… just the breadcrumb trail…

Agreed with a lot of the above, and it used to do turn by turn and off course alert simultaneously, so not sure why that got pulled. I have been experimenting with openstreemap.nl and talkytoaster since I started getting the route calculation errors (that is separate to the unit calculating its own course, which works perfectly), and it hasn’t helped… a bit annoying.

On the turning off issue – I’ve had that a few times, but not really when it’s working fine; it only seems to happen at some point during an activity when something else has already gone awry, if that makes sense!

The longest I’ve run mine with screen on was around 8.5 hours and it still had a reasonable amount of battery life left, probably from memory 10%+

edit – that was whilst in use navigating, by the way.

This, copied from Ride with GPS, clarifies it a bit:

Some quick navigation specific settings for your Edge Touring.

Click the Wrench Icon on the main menu of the unit.
Select Routing Options
Change Routing Mode to Cycling
Change Calculation Method to Minimize Distance
Ensure Lock On Road is set to Off
Enter Avoidance Setup and disable all (keeps the unit from changing your pre-planned route based on its own map data)
Change Recalculation to either Prompted or Off (Important!!! If you lose GPS signal or go slightly off course, recalculation will usually short cut you to the end of your route. You almost never want it, so we set it to Prompted).
Course Turn Guidance must be OFF. This feature only works when the device recalculates the route, which you don’t want if you are using a TCX route.
Off Course Warnings is Enabled. Venture too far away from the route and the device will let you know.

bigmandh – the main one you need to change is the automatic recalculation, as otherwise in, for example, a circular route, it will either try to take you to the end of the route immediately, or just think you’ve completed the route as soon as you set off!

hebden – IMO it would be fine for that, and i frequently have used mine for just those type and length of rides, it is more that it is temperamental in use! Kind of hard to explain until you use one, but I have used mine for 1,000s of miles of riding, including London to Paris and I have survived so far!

As above, mine has been essentially fine once I’d got the settings sorted and understood how to compensate for its foibles. It is still a bit temperamental, though, and for some reasons has recently started throwing up “Route Calculation Error”s, though nothing has changed in the way I am using it AFAIK. So all in all, a mixed bag!

Cheers, that site looks really good AS.

thisisnotaspoon – Member
if CK do a version for that size/standard – I’m finding it hard to navigate the world of such things.

I don’t think they do, I don’t think Hope do either

Cool, ta – that was pretty much my conclusion.