It’s nice to hear the Neko recognised Cy’s expertise and called on it when he had an idea.
I wonder why Cy hadn’t tried to make a DH bike before. Will this be a catalyst for Cotic to do something themselves. The Rocket Max is a nice bike, but something with more travel and dual crown compatible would be cool. I’d love it if that some bike could also be used with a dropper seatpost. Something along the lines of a Sprindrift.

🤣

It might be right… but it sounds like a lot of work building the wheel twice. I’m surprised it didn’t just suggest applying the hub logo to align with the valve hole after the wheel is built.

The black outer sheath is cracking and flaking off to expose the white hose. I don’t know why, the previous hose was much better.

Pivot table or index match should work

The original isn’t so cheap. I’ve just fitted some and it’s falling apart already. Sadly I can’t find the order or recieipt, otherwise I’d be asking for a replacement.

Does anyone know what Goodridge kit will fit?

I have to say, I agree. I haven’t tried any bike with cables in the headset, but I remain open minded to trying one.
Although I have changed headset bearings in the past, upper bearings do generally last better thank lower ones.
The main update on this bike is that it can be bought with Transmission. On the configurator it is only £900 more expensive than GX, which sounds pretty good. And if you use that battery shifting, the cable routing is less of an issue.

For me the bigger issue with the headset is that this bike is no longer compatible with a angle adjust headset. I have one on my ’22 Tyee, but I don’t think that will work on this bike.
I was also disappointed that the seattube is still a bit long, and that the geometry didn’t grow a bit more. They could do with an XXL size.
The rear brake mount isn’t ideal. It will be nessesary to remove the caliper to access the pad retaining pins on most calipers. I think it will also reduce heal clearance.

I was tracking down a rattle in my old bike a couple of years ago, and dropped the rear insert then. It was about the same time I gave up with Maxxis tyres and strated religiously checking tyre pressures before every ride.

I’m 85kg, ride quick enough in a ‘smasher’ style, with pressure 21 psi front, 25 rear, on the setup listed above.

DHR2 front and rear is probably the most popular tyre there, including with the guides. Use something stronger like double down on the rear at least.

A MaxxGrip Assegai was the most impressive front tyre I have tried there. It’s slightly skewed towards a drier trail, but is damn good.

Magic Mary is also a good option, but slightly skewed towards a wetter trail. It’s not a perfect match for Finale most of the time, but it is versatile. I use it as a git and forget and haven’t tried many other tyres in the front since then

I don’t like DHF, but others do.

Personally I have poor reliability with Maxxis tyres, and prefer Michelin, Schwalbe and the new Continental tyres.

Rear Kryptotal with Enduro casing is good.

I find the Wild Enduro Pro grips and rolls well but wears a bit quicker.

Big Betty is good, my second favorite rear tyre.

My personal choice ATM is MM 2.6 front, super trail, and Kryptotal rear, 2.4, Enduro.

As it’s a recommendation just for Finale, I would say Assegai front, Kryptotal rear is perfect.

Why does it matter? I don’t think you’ll talk them in to changing those delivery times no matter how much research you do here.

I have just had the pleasure of opening the pivot and checking the bearings. I am impressed at the general design. It seems robust and easy to work on.

The shock bolts are single piece, steel. They are easily removed without a punch.

There are 8 bearings in total, all a good size. Only two types to stock. They are all pressed in to the aluminum links, which means that they can easily be removed to the bench when it comes to the time to change them, and all cable routing can remain in place on the bike. There are good notches at the back of the bearing to access the outer race with a punch. The bearings are Acros branded, and seem to be stainless steel which should last well.

All the pivot hardware is aluminum. They are ‘plain’ axles, with split wedges to hold angled recesses in the carbon holes. There is a bolt on either end of the axle. There are no threads in the frame.

On the two pivots where the links with bearings are ‘outside’ of the carbon frame, there is a additional seal under the bolt head. The pivots were assembled with plenty of grease. Just one of the bolts seemed a bit looser than the specified torque, but they are simple to check. There is just one down behind the chainring. This can be checked with either the crank removed or the shock removed.

I like this arrangement a lot. More parts than a Santa Cruz for example, but they are nice simple pieces, and no threaded elements in the frame like that either.

So far, very happy.

I hear Propain have a new model very close on the horizon. This will fix the cable routing issues, and be Transmission compatible too.

I had BB7 mtn on my MTB a while ago. I liked them.

For my gravel build I tried TRP Sprye. They were underwhelming, always felt squidgy. The double actuator sounds cool, but I think it makes the brake harder to service. Also pad adjustments need a tool on both sides.

I replaced them with BB7 road. I like them.

When the reviewer owns a RocketMax, it seems odd not to even mention it in the comparison.

@Davy90 this is the same location on BCN.

There are clearly differences between the map information layers, but at least all this information is available in the same app.

BCN OS

BCN 4UMap

BCN Open Cycle Map

BCN Thunderforest Outdoor (online only)

BCN Virtual Earth Satellite

BCN ArcGIS Worldwide imagery

Shimano QR +1
Never had any issues

Back Country Navigator Pro Version has OS map access which can be downloaded in selectable areas to your device. I don’t use it for drawing routes, only for following routes drawn elsewhere, but it is good as a map in your pocket.
It is a one off payment and not a subscription.

In that app there are a few different layers worth trying when in Europe. I prefer 4UMap topographic, but Thunderforest outdoor and Open Cycle Map are sometimes useful.

I think I did once use Locus for a voice navigation feature, but that was some time ago now. I haven’t needed that feature again, but haven’t found it in another app.

Propain Tyee is what I have. Available in 27.5, mullet and 29er. Air or coil. Carbon or alu. Capable but still good to pedal. Headset is compatible with an angleset.
Current model isn’t perfect, but good discount is available.

New model rumored to be a couple of weeks away.

Stick a blanket on the floor, lay the bike on its side and arrange some blocks of wood so the the frame is supported properly so you whack it out with a hammer

I don’t know about ‘ever’, but they’re not currently listed.
Tan walls are listed for 27.5 in Exo casing in DHF 2.3 & 2.5, and DHR2 2.4

If you don’t have good results with Maxxis (I agree), but are set upon tan walls (not my thing), you could go to Schwalbe. They offer Magic Mary Super Gravity 27.5 x 2.4, and Big Betty Super Gravity 27.5 x 2.4

There are lots of natural technichal trails in the Alps, but rarely in dense woodland like that. It’s the dense concentration of big trees and the floor littered with fallen trunks that has encouraged the building of boardwalk in Vancouver and BC. I don’t know of any boardwalk like that in the Alps, or even wider Europe.

Spacing the cranks is pretty standard on Hope 30mm and Sram DUB BBs

I have recommended this bag from decathlon before:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/500-bike-messenger-bag-15l-black/_/R-p-300844?mc=8504456&c=BLACK

It’s perfect for a simple commute in anything but dreadful conditions where you might want more weatherproofing, and more space for a change of clothes. I have used the same bag for lightweight touring. I liked it so much I even bought a second for longer trips.

A fixed rack is the best option, and only need 4 bolts to fit and remove if you don’t like it on the bike all the time. Plenty of choice in that department. I use a Tor Tec Velocity which is nice and low profile. I needed to add a couple of bends in the stays for 700x45mm tyres.

They’ve clearly sent you a 27.5, not a 29er

🤣

I know what you mean. Thank goodness I can buy some proper sized bikes at last. 541mm reach of my A9c sounded insane until I tried it

The current route along the seatstays is tested without the shock in place. It’s not perfect that the cable does a S bend like that, but it seems to work ok.

Propain have ‘fixed’ the routing on the more recently released Spindrift and Hugene. There the cable pops out from the the top surface of the bottom of the downtube, and then enters the chainstay behind the chainring.

I can not mimic that route without because the the cable is very close to the tyre or the chain.

I presume so. I only know of one model.

I’ve still not ordered… A bit unsure because of the press fit BB

A couple of weeks in, 188km and 12,500m descending. Loving it.

The ride is dominated by the supple suspension. The MOD shock has a reputation for sensitivity, and in this frame that’s certainly true. I have measured the sag at 30% with the 550lbs/in spring, which is spot on.
However I was surprised, and maybe a bit disappointed, by how much movement there is from the suspension when spinning on the road. All reviews praise the pedal manners of the Tyee, but I am getting quite a bit of movement, even with shock locked out. It feels more like a resonance issue rather than suspension deflection caused by the chain tension. I played around with the rebound damping, with little change on this trait. The compression damping does help, but I’ve ended up with it wound full closed. However this setup seems to work really nicely all round, so maybe not a problem at all.
I have also tried the bike with an RS Deluxe Select+ air shock. This doesn’t seem to bob in the same way, but I haven’t taken a lot of time to set it up… it was still a bit soft at 185psi. I will swap the shocks about a bit to get a feeling for how to set up the coil shock. The MOD has a huge bottom out bumper, so judging full travel is difficult. Certainly nothing off putting even as my speed and confidence grow.

I have the forks set with 2 tokens, 75psi, rebound 5 clicks open out of 14, HSC full closed. My previous set up was HSC full open, so I’m trying something different to see what I notice. I need to do some proper bracketing to get the rebound dialed front and rear.

The headset has been loose a couple of times, but hopefully that’s just bedding in and a result of the rigors of shuttle trailers.

The DUB BB was a couple of years old and getting graunchy. I was pleased that the Hope 30mm BB I ordered for my new cranks also included spacers to make it DUB compatible. It’s now fitted for a few weeks until I have my new cranks arrive.

The EXC 1501 wheel had some loose spokes, which was disappointing on a new wheel. I have re-tensioned them and will keep an eye on them. The rim is still arrow straight.

The Kryptotal tyre has so far been very impressive on the rear. It ‘feels’ quicker than my previous Big Betty, with no downside. The tread looks a bit like an Aggressor, but it’s way better than that. I did have the rear wheel block with very sticky mud at one point. The clearance at the back is average, so I blame the tyre rather than the frame, but I don’t think this will be much of a problem for me as I don’t ride very muddy trails too often.

I have fitted some silver EMRG all bearing levers to the Formula brakes, which feel very nice. They’ve removed all the lever play and added a stiffer feel to the bike point. I still need to change the brake hose though.

I have fitted Acerbis hand guards to see if I notice a benefit.

The best photos are on Insta:
https://www.instagram.com/hark_at_the_birds/

No issues with my 9c yet 18 months on, though I have to admit it’s not getting as much use as I envisaged when I ordered it.

Good to hear. Just be careful with the pivot bolts when you check the bearings.

Is this on an ebike?

If I leave the chain to 1.0 wear new chain will not work with cassette.

is that your experience, or folklore?

Yes, I do wonder if they might have had their fingers burnt a little with their first foray in to carbon. Clearly some of the frames from this year have arrived with a sub-standard finish too.

Both my Bird and my Propain have the same sticker on the BB shall, so I strongly suspect that they’re actually made by the same supplier, possibly even in the same factory.

Hopefully you have messaged them already but I’ve always found Bird willing to help out.

Everyone always say this. I’d much prefer a bike than just worked reliably in the first place. They’ve always sorted me out eventually, but not always very efficiently.

1. Initial delivery they sent my shock to the wrong address.
2. Warranty replacement frame took 10 weeks, and was still faulty and I needed to fix it myself. At least they gave me some money off.
3. 5x broken bolts, one of which was sent to the wrong address again.

Was any part of the reason to switch due to bike sizing? I.e. Bird sizing is huge – a Large Aether 9 is longer than most XL in other brands.

Not for me. The A9 was a ride experience dominated by it’s geometry, which I enjoyed. Muscling this bike through twisty stuff has made me a better rider. I have never ridden a bike so willing to drift the back wheel with such control.

I bought my new bike despite the geometry, it’s more than 50mm shorter in reach. The ride experience is dominated by the suspension and grip.

@Scienceofficer interesting reading your feelings about the suspension. I ended up in a similar place. It was stable when pedalling, hardly moving, but it’s seemed to suck the joy out of climbing. This was my first full suspension for many years, so I just assumed it was the comparison to a hardtail, but my new bike has shown that to be incorrect.

The suspension also felt quite overdamped in response to bumps. It was worse with the Fox shock than with the RS. It might have been interesting to try with a coil shock, but I’ve lost patience now.

got a link to the advert, couldn’t find it in the for sale section of the website.

Well funny you should ask… In response to your post I thought I really ought to get a move on and get it stripped down, cleaned up and listed properly. The trouble was the blasted thing decided to throw some more quirks at me.

The pivot ‘nuts’ are not bonded to the frame parts at either the main pivot or the swinglink/chainstay pivot. The nuts have very small flat sections that are meant to brace the torque when. When trying to undo the main pivot the nut just span in the frame, chewing up the carbon.

In same ways I am fortunate to have a spare chainstay and pivot hardware from the first round of warranty replacement shenanigans. With this in my back pocket I unhappily set to cutting the chainstay off the pivot.

I then also discovered another broken collet bolt at the swinglink/chainstay pivot. I have broken three of these now. Experience has taught me to have a spare in stock.

The only pleasant surprise from the rebuild was that all the bearings were in good shape. I will be including a set of spares with the frame when it is listed.

So now the frame is cleaned up and rebuilt and as good as new. The trouble is that in my opinion it really isn’t good enough. I could not recommend this frame to anyone, and it will be listed for sale on ebay. I haven’t tried the alloy one, but I hope it is better. I am happy I have new frame and don’t have to persevere with this anymore.

Same bike, or same reason?

I wanted to try something with more travel:

NBD: Propain Tyee 29C XL

My XL frame is up for sale now if anyone whishes to get in touch

I’ve got home now and stuck the bike on the scales. 15.2kg = 33.5lbs

Current set up with a Schwalbe Magic Mary 29×2.6 Super Trail on the front, and Continental Kryptotal 29×2.4 Enduro casing on the rear. No Inserts.

Seems he’s misses a few of the key features to me 🤷‍♂️