@Bearnecessities,

Sadly the one on Cov’s isn’t mine…

Went through this a month or so back. As gravity-slave says you have to pair them as two separate sensors – one as Speed, one as Cadence. Seemed to pair better as they started moving (rather than have them moving before hand) so start with cranks still, start pairing on the 510 and then start spinning the cranks/wheel as appropriate.

Saris Grand Fondo?

Clicky[/url]

My garmin 500 won’t recognise my speed sensor that’s strapped around my hub. I *think* you need the older 3 part speed and Cadence sensor

Odd – I’m now running the older combined speed cadence sensors on two bikes, and the newer seperate speed(sits on the hub) and cadence (sits on the crank, no other bits required) on a third all set up as different bikes on the one 500 head unit (early 2012 vintage).

It did take a bit longer to “pair” the new sensors – more spinning of the cranks/wheel than I expected.

Once done, all fine.

Cup cakes are not cakes, starts about 50s in.

Cup Cakes are not cakes

Dropping them down will be best – general consensus on retrobike is that if you “increase” the travel, you ought to shorten the stem. 80mm should allow for original stem to stay put.

Is it this…

’67 Lamborghini Marzal

Been living and riding with an Ileostomy (similar to colostomy but from small intestine) for many years.

Might be best to finish your tea/supper before reading on.

As your’s is off the large intestine, issues with fluid balance should be minimised, but will depend on where they’ve “diverted” from as a temporary measure, the less large intestine that is currently active the less ability to absorb “fluid” you’ll have. I just make sure I have plenty of fluid going in.

How big is the survey scar (not the stoma)? If it’s like mine, then your stomach muscles will be significantly weakened, even if they feel OK walking around now. They will get better.

Bag management – I use one-piece drainable bags – an old sock over the end can help prevent the clip from rubbing. I always wear lycra or proper liners under baggies, it helps keep things where they should be. I tend to try and always have a bit of air in the bag, as this can prevent pancaking (stoma squashed flat and output then heads under the flange). Drainable also means that you can empty mid ride easily, without having to take a load of kit with you. Two-piece system non-drainables could all help in this regard.
Tried a basic support belt early on, but didn’t really do anything for me. Cut-out a kind of support/guard from an old bit of camping mat to slip around the bag – think flat donut to sit over the flange with the bag poking through – didn’t seem to help much so abandoned that. Tape around the edge, I normally make sue I’ve got a base layer of some sort on, waist band of shorts then sit on top, not direct onto the skin/flange.

Actually riding, no real issues, can’t achieve the classic XC/Road head down/arse up riding position, but that sadly isn’t my only excuse for being slow.

Most important, get out there and enjoy the ride, and try to avoid crashing, worst thing for an ostomist is having your shoes match your bag!

Not sure if you can email me from inside STW, but feel free to PM me on RetroBike[1] if you have more questions.

[1] Same user name as here.

Years ago, I saw someone with a similar issue who used a pair of L-bend bar ends to provide the different reach requirement on the right hand side. They also used a standard 3x rapid-fire shifter and a 7/8x grip shift both fitted to the left hand side of the bars to allow gears to be controlled by one hand.

molgrips – Member
I reckon it’d be harder to implement logic like that than just stick a normal meter in there.

Worked on various instrument clusters a few years ago, if they have a “gauge” now, it will be driven by a micro-controller, not a analog gauge. As such this needs SW and a transfer function to define where the pointer should be in relation to the temperature – which will most likely be received from the engine control unit via network comms on the car.

As others have mentioned the transfer functions are generally non-linear – as that gives an impression of more stable coolant temperature. What actually is implemented is a ramp up from cold followed by a large dead band around “normal” – typically from about 75degC to 110degC[1], with a further ramp when temps start to increase beyond that.

A tri-colour “lamp” could achieve the same effect – blue-warming up, green-just fine, red-getting a bit warm down the noisy end chaps. Though to be honest, I don’t see why most people even need anything other than the over temp warning.

One consequence of this is that if you do have a “gauge”, modern cars appear to warm up faster than older ones with a more traditional analog gauge.

[1] – Engine coolant happily runs at well over 100degC – one because it’s pressurised, and two, the coolant additive increases the boiling point (as well as other benefits). Back in early/mid nineties – systems I worked on were designed to “boil” at 131degC at sea level with correct coolant mix, which equated to about 127degC at high european mountain pass altitudes.

Sounds like you’re using a standard road tyre on it, wasn’t a problem on mine a few years back.

My better half uses some Gator Prescription googles – from RX-Sports. They’re not her true prescription, you pick the nearest to your prescription for each eye (think it’s in steps of 0.5, and you can have different for each eye). Comes out at about £40, which is apparently much cheaper than getting custom prescription ones.

@Ted how long where you off the bike before hitting trail centres??

This was before trail centres :-) Possible that CYB might have been open, but last op was ~95. After the last op, it was about 7-8 weeks before I felt comfortable sitting on a bike (TP took longer to heal than expected), but this did give a chance for the other stuff to heal a bit more. Once on the bike, took things very cautiously (the previous op had been a bit of trial, complications meant seven weeks in hospital, and I lost a third of my body weight), so was probably riding the trails I would usually ride after a couple of months, mainly did road before that.

Went through similar surgery steps in the ’90s though not for Crohns – temp ileostomy, followed by being made permanent ileostomy/total proctocolectomy ~3years later.

For me, that would have been too soon – total protocolectomy made sitting on a saddle a challenge for more than a few weeks :-), but everyone varies, and it sounds like you didn’t get than into the bargain.

I’d be more worried about the consequences of an off, than the actual riding itself – you’ve just had your stomach muscles seriously messed with for a second time so even though the scars may have healed they might not be as strong as you’d want yet.

Best talk to your surgeon/specialist – when are you next due a follow-up check?

Lived in Maidstone for twelve years, and only moved due to work.

Think you’ve got the picture on Sheppey from above. Maidstone would not be an unreasonable place to commute to Sheppey from, we lived in Allington (M20 J5 end) which was very nice, but Penendon Heath (M20 J7 end) is also good, Larkfield OK. Avoid Parkwood!!

This link may be useful for gauging areas if you have postcode:
http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadHome.do?a=7&i=1001&m=0&s=1328521625182&enc=1&extendedList=true&nav=A

Enter the intended postcode in the green section and you’ll get an various info – it’s not perfect, but will enable you to get a feel for the area you’re looking at.

This will help finding postcodes:
http://www.mypostcodefinder.co.uk/

You’d never guess I’d spent the last year looking for somewhere to live in a new area!

Here’s two of mine…

’94 Explosif

’98 Kilauea

Re: Joint ventures with PSA etc.

BMW seem to think they share engines with PSA, put "Strategic Realignment in Decisive Phase" into google.

—
TedC

Same here!