I’ll try not to bore the socks off you, but I love this stuff…

Thorndyke’s law of effect (E.L. Thorndyke, psychologist) basically states that if the consequence of an action(or a behaviour) is pleasant, then that action/behaviour becomes more likely (and also, if the consequence is unpleasant, then the action/behaviour becomes less likely.

First thing to do is stop letting him off lead where he’s likely to run off – your dog has taken to running off after scents to investigate. If he keeps doing it, then he’s getting something out of it (otherwise he wouldn’t repeat the behaviour), or in other words he’s finding it pleasing. The more he practices this, the more likely it is he’ll do it again.

You need to become the center of his universe so that firstly he doesn’t want to leave you, and also condition him to know that when he does come back, great things happen and that you are much more entertaining than whatever’s “out there”.

I could help you with that if you’re not too far (I’m near Ketly), or could put you on to a reputable trainer.

E-collars: If you’re dog is chasing a deer and you want to stop him using an e-collar, Thorndyke’s law dictates that the consequence of chasing the deer must be be more unpleasant than the thrill of the chase – otherwise why should he stop? There’s really no need.

Do you live at the Crook? Who did you go to for training?

There’s not really an industry standard, it’s not a regulated industry and things are a bit complicated….

The ABTC[/url] is described as being the regulatory body, but to the best of my knowledge, it’s self regulated (and so there’s nothing to stop anyone setting up as a trainer or calling themselves a behaviourist).

Associated with the ABTC is the APBC. APBC members (behaviourists) are the ones recognised by the insurance firms, there’s a link on the APBC site to accredited courses which can lead to membership, e.g. you could do  a Foundation Degree through Bishop Burton, and follow that up with the full time honours year.

Before you get that far, you might want to consider courses provided by other providers.

The IMDT[/url] courses are said to be good, though not cheap (haven’t done any myself).

I did a course with one provider I wasn’t particularly impressed with, and did another course through Canine Principles[/url] that I would recommend (Canine Coaching Diploma).

I’d suggest reading up on modern training methods, Classical and Operant Conditioning and the evolution of the dog to start with. A couple of good books (that you’ll end up referencing if you do sign up for a course)…

Excelerated Learning by Pamela J Reid (if you only buy one book, make it this one).

Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson – Excerpt Here.

In Defence of Dogs by John Bradshaw

Dogs: A New Understanding… by Ray Coppinger

Dominance in Dogs by Barry Eaton

Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor

That should do you to start!

http://capbt.org/findabehaviourist.php

http://www.abtcouncil.org.uk/accredited-animal-behaviourists.html

easy if the person says they are scared thats all it needs. Thats how the law is written. Same as if you are worried someone is going to hit you that is assault even if they do not

You seem to have missed the “reasonable apprehension” bit again.

Correct sbob. I do understand the law on this. there is no need for the fear to be “reasonable” Just that the fear is real to the person perceiving it. Same as if you are threatened with a weapon

I’m not so sure:

Dangerous Dogs ACT 1991

Provision 10 (3)

For the purposes of this Act a dog shall be regarded as dangerously out of control on any occasion on which there are grounds for reasonable apprehension that it will injure any person (or assistance dog), whether or not it actually does so…

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1991/65/section/10

Couldn’t find the numbers for more recent years but 21 people including 14 children were killed by dogs in 2014, so that people could have a pet. The freedom to have a pet is worth 14 kids lives and countless injuries a year, its just wrong.

Could you link to where you got those figs from please?

…he was walking ok on his lead so decided to let him off and see how he would get on in a new environment he doesn’t know.

This really isn’t a good idea if you don’t have a sound response to a particular behavior as you’re exposing him to a highly interesting/distracting environment and expecting to be able to re-gain his focus when you already know that you have problems doing this.

Whatever it is you’re teaching (sit/down/stay/come etc), you need to start off in a controlled environment, then once the dog is responding consistently, proof the behavior by increasing the level of distraction e.g. teach “sit” indoors (because it’s a familiar environment with minimal distractions/competing motivations), then once he’s responding consistently, up the level of distraction by moving outside to the garden where there are some new scents & sounds but he’s not overwhelmed.

You also need to be able to keep focus so that looking at you when you call his name becomes a reflex action so that you can then give the next command. Try something like this to get him looking at you and chasing after you: https://www.facebook.com/absolutedogs/videos/1307534942663331/ (can only give a FB link I’m afraid).

Look up the APDT or IMDT for a good trainer that uses modern training methods.

Legend. We have been practicing his recall and staying etc and he is brilliant sometimes. Then he lets himself down by buggering off and not listening.

Try looking at it from another angle – you’re exposing him to massive temptation, and then expecting him to come back to a not very interesting (sorry!) owner. Not really letting himself down, just doing what dogs do…

Do they reconcille that with domestic dogs forming large packs and hunting? (sometimes even killing people).

Could you cite an example of that, or are you referring to the deaths in the UK in recent years?

In the west, the domestic dog doesn’t generally get the chance to form a pack, they’re caught/shot/poisoned etc as they’re considered a nuisance.

Studies of the feral dogs of West Bengal found that dogs tend to scavenge individually and do not hunt cooperatively in the way a wolf pack does.

Can’t imagine a dog in the bed…

It looks something like this…

No it’s not mine, if it was, it wouldn’t be for sale.

Something like this? Live in one let out the other…

http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-40850692.html

I don’t think any of these have been mentioned yet…

Taran[/url]

Brook

Fylde

I A/B’d a D18 & D-28 and preferred the D-18 but didn’t buy either, got a Taran on order 🙂

…choosing one that is fit for sensitive mutts…

One of my GSD’s was a reluctant eater, would need to poo 5 or 6 times a day and was underweight. We tried various food, pills, powders and potions, until one vet suggested we try Royal Canin Gastro Intestinal. It’s prescription only, and not the cheapest food, but it sorted him overnight. He’s a twice a day regular now with the added benefit that they’re easy to pick up.

Fair enough they dismantled it but **** me 480quid.

Exactly, which I why I feel somewhat justified in expecting a repaired boiler to be… repaired and working!

To be fair your question was “£55 for a plumber to tighen a nut?”, which is the one most people answered, not whether the previous work had been correctly carried out.

Maybe I didn’t phrase it very well, however…

Although I don’t post much (and ride even less), I’ve been on here long enough to know that regardless of how I’d put it, someone would have jumped in with the “You expect him to do it for free” post 🙂

270 to service … Fair enough- although not to notice the expansion vessel was toast and fail so quickly after when servicing it is poor … Although i suspect your expansion vessel was probably fine all along…

480 quid for an expansion vessel and fitting – i guess its gold plated or is one of them shit designs that you have to pull the whole boiler to bits and not one of the ones where its hung on the front of the tank.

See above – had to dismantle in order to replace expansion vessel!

And 55 quid to tighten a nut that it sounds like they either didnt touch and was loose all along when they threw the parts cannon at it or didnt tighten propperly when changing the expansion vessel is taking the piss. – ie if it was genuinely a brittle washer they would have changed it on the second visit.

I would be finding a new plumber you sir have been taken for a ride.

Even more so if as i susspect the – “loose nut” was the culprit all along…..

Unfortunantly proving anything is nigh on impossible.

Also. You still in kinross ? What you doing with your self these days !

Aye I think you’re right with regards to new plumber.

Still in same area, different house – boiler in the old house was 25 years old and never broke down!

Not doing much cycling these days due to injuries but three dogs seem to take up all my time anyway 🙂

The thing is, do you know without doubt that the nut in question constituted part of the the previous works.

I showed him where it was dripping from, he said that with the washers heating up and cooling they become brittle over time, and that they (his company) had removed & replaced that specific part in order to be able to replace the expansion vessel, and that the washer would need replacing. That’s what has me wondering why he didn’t replace the washer when replacing the expansion vessel.

You really are out of touch with reality, do you also question the cost when you see a solicitor, he doesnt arrive or drive to your house, a taxi, that does drive and arrive at your house, and nmany other people who charge for their sevices, experience, tools, insurance, overheads and basic wages for them and their staff.

or did you think he would come out for a packet of digestives.

Maybe I am out of touch with reality, and no I didn’t think he’d come for a packet of digestives. I did though expect that after paying £480 for a new expansion vessel that I’d be able to take a shower without it intermittently running cold.

I take it You don’t think I’ve got a case to argue then?

I’ve just put 500ml whole milk and a banana into “My Fitness Pal”:

Milk: 309 kcal, 17g fat, 23g carb, 17g protein.
Banana (100g): 103 kcal, 0g fat, 46g carb, 1g protein.

If that does it for you post workout then fine (some advocate carbs, some protein). But if it’s a post exercise “protein shake” you’ve decided on, maybe look at something else.

Someone I know has a “Chuckit” ball launcher with a rubberised handle. I keep meaning to order one (but neve actually get round to it), it’s much sturdier than the generic flexi plastic tat that I usually end up buying.

Something like this:

http://www.activehound.co.uk/collections/chuckit/products/ultra-grip-launcher

Westies are susceptible to a couple of health issues one of which is skin conditions (as are other breeds). One of my GSD’s has skin problems, and after many unsuccessful treatments, we eventually put her on Atopica. Without insurance, this would be £350 per month!

I’m with Petplan, whole life cover, they pay up without quibble every month (and have done for a couple of years now). It costs around £45 per month for her, about £35 for my second shepherd, and about £20 for the springer – wouldn’t be without it (insurance) myself.

Glen Etive?

http://www.glenetiveschoolhouse.co.uk/

Different surface that he’s not used to? Or maybe traffic noise?

Rather than “force” the walk on him/flood him with whatever it is that’s (possibly) spooking him, try and identify what it is that bothers him (the whole walk or a certain section?) go as far as you can and then lay a trail of livercake (or similar) for a few paces (then turn around and go back home!). Gradually increase the length of the trail (i.e. increase exposure to surface/noise…) before fading it out.

All the best, I genuinely hope everything works out, dogs are ace 🙂 (though just in case you couldn’t tell from my earlier posts, I’m not a big fan of irresponsible breeders!).

An accidental mating… which is basically an irresponsible mating – if they are responsible and knowledgeable Dalmation breeders, then surely they’ll have known the J.R. was in season?

Regardless of that, their J.R. is a working dog, and they (the breeders) are willing to sell you one of its pups as your first dog.

I’d also ask them that should it turn out that you can’t cope with this pup for whatever reason (not saying this will happen, but it is a possibility), whether they’d be willing to take the dog back. If you think that sounds a bit weird, it is actually quite common.

If you’re thinking I’m coming across as a right barrel of laughs (or even a miserable git), maybe it’s got something to do with the fact that I can’t remember that last time I had a weekend “off.” Weekends are often spent assessing dogs whose owners want to give them up, transporting dogs from owners that are surrendering them up to a rescue, or doing home-checks. You’d probably be suprised at how many breeders couldn’t care less what happens to the dogs they breed after they’ve taken the cash.

Edit: Though if you do think that you could give some little fella a nice home at chez Wrighty, and that a J.R. or a Beagle is for you, how about taking a look here[/url] or here[/url]. There’s certainly no need to go putting money in the direction of some irresponsible breeder.

Ho Ho Ho and all that…

My advice would be to ask the breeder why he chose to cross a Jack Russel and a Beagle, what is he/she hoping to achieve from this mating (crossing two energetic & willful breeds with strong hunting instincts – good luck with the recall training!).

Ask him if he’s aware of any genetic health issues which affect either of these breeds, and whether the dam/sire have been tested. It doesn’t necessarily follow that a cross breed is healthier if the the parents are affected by some issue.

Why? Mine was instantly comfortable with not a problem except they bent my frame by saying they adjusted it to suit my ears. Bloody annoying as I like my frame balance and I don’t care if my ears are not evenly level.

Things started off well (though certainly not “instantly comfortable”) as when driving, I could both read a numberplate/roadsigns AND the dash more clearly (I’m longsighted). However, when at a junction, I had no sense of speed/distance with cars coming and would have to lift them up, had no sense of sideays spacial perception with them, found it difficult to park (i.e. would have to take them off)… couldn’t get comfortable with a monitor e.g. when trying to read long words, the first few letters would be in focus but the ending blurred. Couldn’t read music with them. When trying them outdoors… I could go on!

It felt as though the lateral field of vision was too narrow, though they weren’t cheap lenses (Nikon), and apparantly didn’t have a particularly narrow field of vision. I had the option of up-grading the lenses, but I wasn’t particularly keen to shell out more cash after my initial experience. We talked through what I felt I needed, and decided a pair for the p.c./reading music, and a pair of bifocals for driving.

Hated the things – just took mine back today and going for bi-focals.

I’ve got a 3 year old working springer insured with Pet Plan for £23.42 per month (whole life cover). I’ve also got two GSD’s – a 5 year old at £37.49 per month and a 6 year old at £40.66. It might seem expensive, but the 6 year old has a skin condition and is on Atopica which would cost £350 per month (yes, £350 per month). Petplan pay out every month (as well as for her other pills) without quibble and have done for the past 3 years or so.

Is there any way of vetting these folk?

For a pedigree dog, one of the first things I’d be asking about is health test results of dam & sire. If the response is that the pups haver been health tested by the vet, then that indicates the parents haven’t been health tested (there are different tests recommended for different breeds).

If you’re thinking of a cross breed from gumtree/preloved/pets4homes etc, I’d suggest a visit to the local rescue/dog pound and consider why there are so muny unwanted dogs in need of a home before you get one as a christmas present.

Paul Brett Viator? (scroll down for details/videos), just over £200.

Nice dog rewski. Ours is just over a year old now. They can be a bit wilful, so watch out at about 4months and then again at 10-11, ours needed to be reminded of her place in the pecking order below our 7 and 9 year old girls, but quite easily done by letting the girls control her meals – making her sit and wait before feeding her, and also taking it back off her. S/he who controls the food is higher in the hierarchy!!

That has nothing to with training and is potentially dangerous – you’re running the risk of your dog becoming food aggressive/learning to resource guard.

2005 2.0 X, 64000 miles, £4000. Might be worth a look.

I’m in Kinross.

I did it a few years back and was able to pick and choose modules as I went along, I think things have changed recently and you’re expected to decide on your course of study beforehand (I might be wrong on this though!). Prices have definitely gone up.

I’ve got the MST 121 (Using Mathematics) and MS 221 (Exploring Mathematics) course materials which will be getting thrown out soon unless someone wants them…

Enjoyed that, and a song from Iris Dement to finish with too.

Meindl Borneo (Borneo 2 now) – leather lined.

Kinross – junc 6 M90.

I’ve got the course materials for MST 121 and MS 221 cluttering up the place – you’re welcome to them to get a feel of what their materials are like if you can pick them up (central Scotland)or for the price of postage.

I’m with Sharkbait on this:

He is crated when we’re not there, and at night, and has been a total joy.

Why do you need to crate him when you’re not there? I suspect it’s because you’re concerned about the damage he might cause.

And why would he cause damage? Because his needs are not being met.