Cane creek trad 44 will be avaiable from uk importer end nov

looks just like any other traditional headset + the additional stack height maybe useful if you want to slacken the head angle

Clearly I know nothing about headtube sizes on Oranges of any year…. so

I agree with Dan1980 if the frame has a 1.5 head then you just need the correct headset…

or if it has a 1 1/8 to 1.5 taper headtube likewise you’ll need the correct headset.

or if it’s a 1 1/8 zero stack then it’s possible to fit a tapered fork using a cane creek 44 XX traditional lower headset assembly (don’t believe they fitted zero stacks to Orange fives…..)

Cane creek have a very useful ‘what fork + what frame + what headset do I need guide……

forget about tumble dryers, Maytag and serveral other companies make drying cupboard where you can hang wet gear to dry (no where near as fierce as a tumble dryer and unlikely to offend your fellow employees……)

start from about £700….

Skiprat pic’s sent

buy a frame with an EBB?

by strange coincidence I’ve an original inbred 18″ with EBB which I’m about to relist for sale at £100

DrDom yes details as below

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cotic-roadrat-black-500-large-short-frame-so-has-drops-fitted

Dropped price to £450 (mech is alcera not slx)

large roadrat with drops £450?

IA if it’s got a zero stack headset then yes, should work

read Brant’s coments about slackening the head angle

Warpcow, no idea?

maybe you coud buy 2 X 44-XX Traditional (lower assemblies + a 1.5 top cap you might have to trawl through Cane creeks spare parts listings and PDF’s…. to make sure that would work)

Kezzab,Snap! I’m fitting a taper fork to a IH (Mk III)

just need the headset Cane creek do the headset as a full headset and as a lower only (no idea of costs …)

Brant when will the Nukeproof V be available + and idea of RRP?

depends……. on your frame

Cane creek produce a headset called 44-XX Traditional (do a search on the web loads of articles posted out there…)
(nuke proof are supost to be doing something similar (Brant care to comment?)

these are designed to fit frames which comply to the Zero Stack standard (Giants, some Iron horse frames, new Ragley frames not sure which, + others)

the headset inserts into the 44mm ID headtube and the cub sits outside (traditional style)

Bad news is that there doesn’t appear to be any stock of the cane creek headset in the UK until mid Nov not sure about the Nuke proof

Brant, is the Nukeproof 44mm 1.5in external model available yet, i’ve had a look and can’t seem to find them listed anywhere

well as surf-mat is going to be a long while….. heres some feedback on Trouties LL after 1 year of heavy usage rain, snow, descents of the Cwmcarn DH course…… it's not missed a beat been loaned out for 24hr races + 2 people that have borrowed it have gone on to purchase from Mr T

lots of US made products quote metric tool sizes, however I've found particularly for Fox that the Imperial size is a better fit eg 1" AF sockets for fox 32 topcaps & 1 1/4 AF for fox 36 topcaps

also the schrader valves in talas 36's are held in by 7 /16……

rule of thumb is the metric sizes work fine if your careful…

trail_rat and ross980 have valid points, I've been using one of mr Trouts LL model lights (which I recomend without reservation) for over a year and fine that most of the time I run it on low, the combination of an economical low + v hi performance high works best in real world conditions.

PP I should have some pressure setup guidance from TF when I had them serviced about 3 yrs ago

I'm guessing that Juan's don't like running at low pressures or could be a split bladder?

Still worth trying at a higher pressure to see if they'll maintain a differential between the neg and pos chambers 9that should prove if somthing nasty is going on inside)

Yes I run mine at about 6 psi

I'll post the full set of settings when I get home, I run the SL1's on v low pressures despite being 14 stone-ish on a 456 with about 20mm of sag I don't use the neg spring to reduce the static height (personal preference)

pp as spokes and rusty the pressures in the manual are way to high

try about 6 psi in the PAR
25 – 35 in the positive chambers depending on the amount of Pies that Juan has consummed recently…

the lowers on 36's are prone to 'dry out' theres only a small quantity of oil in the bottom of the forks; it's worth sticking to the service intervals for the seals and foam rings + refiling the lower oil levels.

Fox and Enduro seals have some good guidance on these tasks.

I've had exactly the same experience and you've got 2 realistic choices either as PP say's buy some rockshox or ride them to death….which I'm doing…. although they ride far beter now that I've converted them to DIY floats ;-)

I started the old post on here, way back…… Had 2 posts fail in short order one after only four XC rides… the thread had lots of examples of similar failures… so it's not an isolated problem….shame as I like the system unfortunately they've got an unresolved design flaw and I for one won't entrust my life to an SDG I Beam post….

Dahon's ride better……. although if the journey includes public transport the Brompton wins every time…

spare parts…. you can get just about every part even for the oldest bromptons….I've had the opposite experiance with Dahon and getting spares has proved difficult.

resale…. after a year it's almost certainly worth what you actually paid for it using the cycle to work scheme

the service instructions on both the Fox and Enduro fork seals web sites recommend that you slacken off the foot nuts a couple of turns max then give them a sharp tap with a soft faced mallet to project the faces

I'd recomend looking through there guides once before attempting anything…

stanction wears not a good sign, but doesn't mean the end of the useful life of the fork, it's probably a waste to fit new seals if the stanctions are badely worn, but you can certainly squeeze some useful life out of even badly worn ones through doing a top and bottom lubrication service on them until you make up your mind if you want to invest in new stanction's and bushes

swarfega, why? washing up liquid and a bit of sugar works well, or a handfull of gloves from the petrol satation next time you fill up :-)

saxbar most of the magazines post the route the wrong way around….. have a look at mtbbritain feature called black mountains blast…

+ don't forget to do the descent to Fordlas Fawr

yes helix pro with lockout, used to have one fitted to my jmc era stumpy fsr…

£200+ when new

this is from my fading memory… its coil with air assist rather than some kind of air 'platform' which was used to change how progressive the shock was…
rebound damping control only. to run the lockout I used an old xc pro thumbie…

I'll have a look through the pile of cr'p in the garage attic as i might have a manual (during the last clearout I found a prostop disk brake fitted to a pair of answer accutrak fork so who knows whats lurking there…)

still running a 2.2 diesel xtrail 135,000 miles no mechanical issues still fine.

Tried Rav's and thought the seats were tiny and had no back support

one of the most significant bikes of it's era, that turned the 'AMP' into a production bike that was in reach of a wider market

I had a set of long travel plates and a shockworks shock on mine (bought from Chris a Mojo), the bike outlasted friends 'trek Y and GT RTS & LTS's that failed along the way

should never of sold it…. however still must resist as have too many bikes already…..

Mr T

keep up the good work, the liberator has been performing perfectly despite a season of shockingly wet, muddy and cold rides. Still get questions about how it performs etc and flawless is my answer.

have you got any 'baby's' in the shed? + (do they use a maxflex or bflex?)

Picto I assume both were IBeams? they have a habit of failing especially in the cold IMHE

have had similar experiance (the no ust version suffered as sidewall split found the ust version of the Advantage far more robust, not sure of size but is skinnier than the regular tyre)

instead of washing up liquid, use Washine machine liquid far thicker and works a treat on hard to seal tyres (don't apply sparingly…) + don't use indoors it will go everywhere…

James, the failure appear to have happened on the 'classic' and 'micro' headed aluminium posts; where the heads bond into the posts the posts split vertically, I've not seen any head failures.

I guess the failures in cold weather are due to either the bonding agent not performing well in the cold and or some expansion/contraction issues between the bonded parts (not convinced about this as both parts are aluminium) all I know is lots fail in the cold……..

I didn't bother with the warrantee on the 1st one (just accepted in good faith that occassionly products fail) bought a 2nd one from CRC who refunded without a problem.

I initiated a thread here last year, can't find it for some reason…. started it after 2 post failed within one month.
1st one purchased from on one a year previously so had a fair amount of use.
the 2nd was a month old purchased from CRC (the newer micro adjust type) used 4 times and failed whilst riding allong a canal path

Both failed with a vertical split, in both cases during v cold weather, the thread identified that this type of failure had occured repeatedly, and those individuals which contacted the importer seemed to get a generic 'only ever had 2 posts fail' type of answer………

I won't be risking my safety with this post system again, shame as I really like the concept and like the saddles, I continue to use the railed versions

it's likely that you've over pressurized thetop cap seal/expansion plate, from what you say I'd guess that this forced the oil past the seal.

Try removing the cap and reseating the seal then refill / bleed the brake

try Ribble they were £53 a couple of days ago

I've had this problem several times.

Use a dremmel or B&Q copy, just grind slots into the outer race, three equally spaced work best.

or if you want to try and use a puller put the link in a plastic bag overnight with some plus gas / wd40 or other penetrating oil

try 'stans' inside tubes and then inflated them up to the maximum on the tyres on the brompton, which seems to work well.

I've found the Schwalbe marathons more robust than the brompton tyres

Try this kit from Cutter,

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut790

not as powerful as the newer XPG's but will give 500+ lumens good, I've converted some lumi's with no other mods required, should double the duration that you get from your pack

Adec I'd be cautious hope brakes hub and rotors work fine

Hope pro 2 + floating rotor + shimano postmount calipers are a pain in my experiance shimano IS fitting work fine

I've had the same problem using postmount shimano calipers with floating rotors on fox 36's and after lots of faffing around with shim washers and filing of about 1 mm of the calliper eliminated any rub.

subsequently I've swapped the caliper for an IS mount which works perfectly