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Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 132 total)
  • Using an eSIM To Stay Connected In Remote Locations While Hiking Or Biking
  • swamptin
    Free Member

    Good coffee and cake. Actually, good coffee cake would go a long way. Everything else is covered. Tools, sure. Parts/mechanic… probably a bad idea unless you’re looking to end up like Look Mum, No Hands.

    I’ll chuck in ‘The Wall’ as a potential name. Just for the giggle factor.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    To be fair… as a ‘ride what you got’ kinda biker… do we care about people with more money than skill? Nah man… just go back to riding, you’ll find the kinda heads you like biking with. They’re still out there, except they’re riding their bikes.
    [edit] What Mosey said. [/edit]

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Limerick in Ireland for the time being. We’ll see where I get a job… then it’ll be there.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Whenever I went I just used whatever I had. I was a student at the time, usually single or dual ply 2.35 High Rollers. Dual ply 2.4 would be nice, but not mandatory imho. Just avoid getting the pointy bits of rocks near your side walls.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I’ll chuck in votes for the following, that have been said before;
    In Our Time
    Thinking Aloud
    Radiolab
    Infinite Monkey Cage
    This American Life (Serial is a great spin off from one of their Producers.)
    99% Invisible

    Nobody mention NPR’s Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me, Hello Internet, and there is of course Neverwhere by the BBC, Asimov was adapted for radio too, The Hitch-hiker’s Guide radio series is great too.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Welp… that’s my Steam spending for the winter sale taken up over €55… I’ll play them all eventually, I promise I will. :twisted:

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I don’t get an answer and it’s about tubeless, 1×11 and SRAM/Shimano compatibility.

    Can’t comment on Tubeless, but on the topic of SRAM/Shimano compatibility, their indexing is different. I once ran a Shimano 9speed mech on an 8speed SRAM cassette and shifter. It ‘worked’ in the sense that I didn’t have to singlespeed the bike… but eh… no, not an ideal solution by any stretch of the imagination. It’ll keep you rolling though. Best of luck with the recovery too.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I would say no. For a start if it’s really new you’re likely not used to it and it’s quirks. Certainly not as used to it as the old warhorse that’s been in the shed for half a decade. Could mean your trying to ride the exact same lines though, which would be foolish. Full bounces are made to blast through stuff you pick a knacky fast-ish smooth line on a hardtail. If you’re around the right sag/air pressure then the bike is right. You’ll learn it and get faster over time.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Have you tried the old ‘pop out the wheel, pull lever, put wheel back in’ trick? That’s a known solution for intermittent bite-point issues on new-ish Shimano brakes. I say ‘known solution’, it’s worked for me and a few friends. Actually, if you’ve the wheel off you could see if it’s slow pistons on the pad side or lever action.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    [edit]Removed suggestion of disabling 3g because after my second swig of coffee I realised what you were actually asking.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I had a lad hop a beer bottle off my head once from the passenger window. I wasn’t anywhere near the car as there was a wide enough shoulder to avoid having to deal with cars. Best I ever got was in London, just passed Streatham Hill, as a tinted out SUV blaring gangster rap rolls down the window and out comes the line “**** da police! Cycle on the footpath.” I just cracked up laughing.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Bike Radar did a test, about as scientific as these things get. Same rider, same conditions, same track, 3 different wheel sizes. Their conclusion was the difference between 26″ and 29″ was negligible. 26″ took the descents, 29 took overall average speed, 27.5 was the all round loser. So, according to this one study… I can safely suggest 29″. Needless to say, there are other factors in play. Not to mention the placebo affect of a new bike being ultimately ‘better’.
    Bike Radar Video [/url]

    [edit]I forgot to mention… I ride a 26″ bike, so… I can only really supply the link.My opinions are worthless in the real world.[edit]

    swamptin
    Free Member

    swamptin
    Free Member

    One of my favourite moments in Snap Judgement was the Silver Dollar Lounge story about Daryl Davis. Well worth a listen.
    Snap Judgement Soundcloud

    swamptin
    Free Member

    You could also be pulling up on the bars instead of pushing forwards. That would make the rear wheel drop away from you pretty quickly. Try, on a smaller drop, just unweighting the front with a weight transfer and slight push out/forward on the bars. See if that solves it.

    Avoid dropping a toe, that’ll only make losing a pedal far too easy. If anything both heels are fractionally below the axle purely because you’ve just stuck your arse back and low.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Aclysm? Just to be able to respond to the question “What’s it’s name?” with “The Cat? Aclysm.”

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Isn’t it something like the notice period is how long between paychecks? Unless you need to help them retrain someone to take your place. That’s what I was always told. If you’re paid once a month, give a month’s notice. If you’re paid weekly, give a week’s notice. That sort of thing.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I quite liked Dave Byrne’s “The Bicycle Diaries”. It’s all tales from when he was touring with The Talking Heads. He used to bring a folding bike with him and cycle around all the cities he was in. It’s not exclusive to Europe, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    My commuter is a NoLogo. Bought it in London there about 4 year ago. So far the only thing I’ve changed on it is the tyres, grips, a couple of tubes and the brake pads. Mine came with flat bars instead of the flipped and chopped bars they’re currently rolling. It’s been quite reliable over the years. I’d change the tyres fairly sharpish assuming they’re still the same ones they used last time. Really thin yokes and prone to puncture, but she’s now running Schwable Marathon’s, so that’s been the end of the punctures. Can’t speak for recent versions, but the one pictured below is the one I have. Perfect for city/town riding. Spent a year doing 40km a day in London, never phased it.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Maybe we should all have a 1980s HT sitting in the back of the garage

    If I had the money I would. A friend of mine has an 80’s era Spesh hardrock with the original whitewall tires and canti brakes. Looks amazing.

    I’ve never owned a full bounce, always ridden a hardtail that was either a DJ bike or similar geometry. Borrowed my clubs stinky a few times… that’s a great machine for soaking up idiocy. The line choice issues with FS vs HT is more about speed than anything. Sure you could go over it all and not care, but if you point a FS at the line you use for a HT you’ll go miles faster. If I ever get a FS it will be to compliment my current rig though, not to replace it.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Books. ALL of the books. Every single one. Maybe a Kindle if you haven’t got one already. Side note, if you’re thinking about using a tablet as an e-reader I’d advise against it. The backlit screens kept me awake and hurt my eyes after a while.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Years ago a friend of mine owned a Defender, I think it was a 90 but I’m not sure. There was a point where the lights wouldn’t turn off until you hit the kill switch under the passenger seat. :lol:

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I wear 3/4 length shorts any time I swing my leg over a bike. Lycra… I’m nowhere near fast enough and I’d probably look like I was smuggling squirrels from behind. Any pair of jeans/trousers I’ve worn… no matter how tight they seem at the ankle get oil.
    [Edit]Current pair are Endura. A 3/4 length version of the singletrack-ii trousers above. [/edit]

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I’m a terrible hoarder. I’ve two sets of Avid cable brakes in my bedroom, a Formula brake with a hose that’s too short to go on anything I own anymore, a pair of half worn DMR Motos. Actually, come to think of it I’m pretty sure there’s still an Shimano 5 speed mech somewhere around the house. :?

    swamptin
    Free Member

    This recipe may well be buried in one of the sub threads previously linked. I use it a lot. If I’m making it for non-vegans I just chuck meat in after the onions, cook the meat in the onions for a bit and then carry on from there. In the case of it not being for 6+ people I’ll take a tin of beans out of the recipe aswell. It does make a LOT of chili… omnomnomnomnomnomnom… chili… mmmm

    Thug Kitchen Chili

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I’ve owned an NS Core 2 for a few years now. It was, I believe, the predecessor to the Surge line. Came with Marazocchi 55RS up front. Heavy as nuts. Unfortunately, due to scratches they needed replacing. Last weekend I picked up a set of Sektor Air forks from 2011. Now, the Air is likely to be a tad light if you’re going all in ‘Hardcore Hardtail’ as you’re implying. I’m building mine up to be a burly all day machine because it’s all I’ve got. I will say this. 150 vs 160mm… so far the only thing I’ve noticed is that there’s less pedal bob, it’s lighter, and that’s about it.

    So if you can find some spring ones with a 20mm axle they’d certainly be a goer. I know the sliders are thinner, but all my mates swear by them and I know a pair of Sektor coils that did a 15ft huck and are still going strong. I wouldn’t rule them out. I’ll let you know if I notice any other major difference in handling and the like over the next few days too.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Slidewinder, I properly burst out laughing at that. My local Halfords were saying that they’re fighting to abolish their “0 hour” contracts too. She hopefully will get on board with that. I will admit, this was after the assistant manager turned to me and said “You don’t fancy coming back to work for us, do you?”

    swamptin
    Free Member

    “Arse back, elbows and knees loose.” which was given to me by a good mate before he pointed me down a skree line in a quarry. Close second is “Look 5 foot or more in front of your wheel.”

    swamptin
    Free Member

    eating gravy granules to “thickening it up” a bit!

    Bladder, would you not have just gone with some plain old corn starch? Cheaper and just as effective… kinda like chocolate milk and a banana really.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    See, your problem there was you cleaned it. If I’ve learned anything from riding bikes it’s that clean bikes tend to have issues. If it’s not clean you can’t see the issue, thus the issues don’t exist. I’m pretty sure it’s the mud that holds most of my bike together.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I managed to successfully decontaminate my front brake. No more fork oil on my pads, plus new forks = happy Swamptin finally loose in the local hills.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    If it’s any consolation to the OP, I can say that it’s not just in the UK. Having commuted in London for 3 years the worst set of road users I’ve ever come across are Irish drivers. Back at home in Limerick a fella once figured it was ok to clip my handlebars while travelling at 50kph on approach to a roundabout in icy conditions (Winter of 2009). Not that that’s any help, I guess mandatory cycle commuting for a period would probably open their eyes alright.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    For anyone who comes across this issue in the future, my mate Psycholist on another forum provided the following solution;

    If you’re very lucky – and can find this part spare – swapping the seal out might work, but usually the seals are just different enough that they’ll either not work as seals or seize the headset.

    The best cheap and cheerful remedy is to make a new seal from an old bike tube. Either cut a ring out that’ll fit where the old seal was (Which depending on the size of the seal isn’t guaranteed to stay in place) or else stretch a length of tube over the whole lower headset bearing. If you put a cable tie around the bottom of the headtube you can get this to stay in place pretty well. I did it back in the bad old days with one bike I had. The steering gets a little stiffer but not much.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    I’ll be in my bunk.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    If i lost 60 lbs in a few weeks…

    I smell a challenge. How much is 60lbs in new money? 27kg… hmmm shave the beard, two attempts at clogging the office toilets, jobs a good ‘un.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Can you get a reducer headset to fit Cannondale headshok frames anymore? The Fatty is a 1.56″ steerer from what I can find. If you can find a reducer to 1 1/8th” you should be fine, but I’m gonna hazard a guess that your headset is where the problem will be.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Pudding has to be part of the ‘macronutrients’ section.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    If only these were already being mass produced. I guess you could email them and ask what the waiting list is like for enough panels to cover the area.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Judging from what trials riders do to lighten their frames I’m gonna go with ‘Sure, provided you’re not drilling through the welds themselves’.

    swamptin
    Free Member

    Her voice just makes me melt, every time. It’s from the naughties… aptly enough. :lol:

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 132 total)