As I understand it, mass adding to the inertia of the wheel is not going to effect climbing and more that the same mass being added elsewhere. However, as off road riding often involves more changes of speed, say in switchbacks, the easier acceleration and deceleration should be of more benefit than on the road. On the topic of weight – a pro british road rider shed about 8 punds and (because he maintained his power output) it cut his time by something huge like 30 seconds (a 30 minute climb I think).

Conclusion = weight of the bike important if you have <10% body fat already.

Assuming you have an external bottom bracket, have you faced the frame?

Very impressive that you're making the effort – best of luck until you reach your goal 😀

+1 for grippers and the associted bolts. Next point would be the bearings/link bolts and possibly the shock bushes, just clean and use the correct grease. Good luck!

I love it. Sexist, but there are plenty of man stereotype jokes so who cares 😀

The suspension design on Giants is very good for pedalling efficiency – I've ridden them. The shock is custom tuned for Giant, and IIRC the Giant rep (I worked for a bike shop) said they would run without any pro-pedal if the shock was available, such is their belief in the efficiency. Also, I wouldn't bother putting more pressure in than what you need for the right amount of sag – IMO it defies the point of rear suspension. I think it's best to let it give you the extra grip and comfort, or ride a hard tail!

Try greasing the threads on everything! Especially bars and stem in my experience…

Perhaps too obvious, but make sure you rims is clean and free of anything slippy, then set your brakes up/have them set up.

I my be wrong but I suspect he domed washers that come with a thomson post will do the trick; its the same design really. Try this:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=14349

Having owned both I'm in favour of vanillas, however both forks were/are 2004 models so may have improved with the new low friction sliders…

I'd go to have them fixed… you'll save money and if you want to change them they will sell on. Oh and if Mojo say they needs everything inside replacing so making it cost too much, they won't charge you for binning them! My 2004 Floats needed – and + springs so they advised a new fork…

Trout – something like the Hope led 2 light format with the greater throw (for greater speeds) and dipped beam etc would be ideal.

Havn't read the rest of the the thread above, but the sleek carbon sounds good, looks are important. Other things I would suggest are possibilities for customisation, even if its just a colour option.

My other big idea, if I were in your position, I would like a system that would allow me to attach a rear light to the same battery – so the battery type doesn't gradually get dimmer… so a complementary rear light thats VERY bright and makes me think I could get away with one and not three…

Hope thats good!

Antony

I don't think its a bad thing that new bikes and shock don't come with the tools – I wouldn't expect a bike to come with a foot pump, allen key set and lube… it would be like those washing detergents that come with a net/ball – everybody will end up with piles of them…

Edinburgh bike may have them – I should know as I work there now and again, but I havn't seen them in a while…

They refused to discount, they say they have to sell at RSP. So I'm really not wanting to give them any business

I don't think the discount expectations that used to be commonplace are reasonable anymore – hence the little independants that went bust… If you don't want to pay their best price, buy a cheaper bike or wait for the price to drop.

My experience in bike shops (last 3 years) makes me willing to pay the price. There are some bikes where a 10% discount leaves not profit after shop running costs are taken into account.

Do you ask for a discount when you do your weekly food shop?

Hi

I work at a dealer, and bought a carbon synapse from our place too 🙂

Any dealer (INCLUDING Evans) should sort it for you, and I think that with it being carbon, and a manufacturing defect, it will probably be sent to Cannondale for inspection. They are quite good and will sort it out, though the shop can charge you for stripping the bike to a frame only if thats what's required – ring up and ask if its a 2 hour drive!

Good luck 🙂

I believe it depends what and how you ride – more info please? 🙂

EDIT – and your size etc as ^^^

I was doing 20 miles each way, found it best to have a light cereal (small bowl of porridge or crunchie nut) before setting off, and a cereal bar or two when I got there.

Some road are 130mm, most MTB are 135+ (I think). If the qr has enough thread to screw onto and closes up tight, I'd be OK with it, just don't chance 2 or 3 threads sticking out…

Walk advice – take the bike 😉

Failing that, I'm not sure… although integrating the lakeside around Ulswater is recommended 🙂

I kind-of agree about the flexi shoes on a cervelo and not earning a jersey, but they still sound like they at least have a clue… I decided a while ago to give a nod and not to care if I don't get one back. It is interesting though…

oldgit – are you suggesting that a man who wears MTB shoes on a road bike must be a leisure rider, and therefore doesn't know to give a nod to be polite? Whats the difference between a leisure rider and a 'proper' rider?

Just curious 🙂

Question 3 – in real world terms, is their anything else that would make any more difference weight wise for a similar amount of cash?

What's the spec of the bike?

My 2p 🙂

With a point and shoot hand-held 🙂

+1

Pauly – Member
You need a license to have a dog….

Not sure you do, but COMPLETELY agree with your point!

@will – still impressed!

@IvanDobski – sub 8mpg! Just as well you're on LPG! Thanks for the info 🙂

Is there something wrong with me if that image looks like it's pulsing?!?

Obviously this is less of a problem in a 1.0l Aygo than in something a bit beefier.

I don't know; some of these cars have microscopic fuel tanks, and get slightly less MPG on LPG.

You can fill up with petrol in the normal tank an flick between the 2 can't you?

will – Member
Nice cars those VXRs

Personally I'm not fussed about the price, despite doing 20,000 in the last 10 months I always get around 60mpg unless gunning it! 71.6mp is my best…

… The car 174bhp 0-60 in 7.4 seconds 298lbs/ft torque

Impressive – which car is that then? Does its computer say you get 60mpg or is that calculated?

Hi – if I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at:

Honda Civic
Toyota Corolla
VW Polo/Golf
Skoda Fabia/Octavia (essentially VWs)
Seats Ibiza/Leon

and spending about £3-4000 and getting a 1.4 or bigger petrol, or diesel if the budget allows.

It seems like you're after advice on buying, my own tips are to do a HPI check (essential really), check for full service history (cambelts at about 60,000 miles) and drive a similar model for comparison before parting with cash. Good Luck! Oh and I'm sure that everybody will offer their scrutiny if you find something you're considering, just post it up!

Thanks for those, very useful 🙂 I think I'll look at using my turbo bike, I'll have to fit some brakes first thought!

Do you mind me asking your reasons for wanting to use one with such a light frame / bike?

Simply because they are my bikes! I don't have anything else but the turbo scrapper…

My physio prescribed hamstring stretches, as tight hamstrings pull the hips down. Apparently many cyclists have tight HSs, so stretch after every ride – it worked for me.

Billiant! I bet Audi have these meetings…

Do you have to be 18 to pass your test these days?

There are a fair few 1.0 litre polos, but the 1.4 with a mighty 60bhp isn't much more to insure. Have a look on http://www.clubpolo.co.uk

I got a really old banger when I was 17 (2003), a 1.3 polo, and it cost £1100 for 3rd party fire and theft…

+1 for wider rims. I'm an aggressive XC rider most of the time, and I've ding'ed and buckled 3 717 rims… and IMO wide tyres don't sit as well on them.

What if… its a decoy, and she's leading you to think this entirely on purpose??

Ignore this – I read the original post wrong…

Hi

A late suggestion – have you greased the seat collar bolt? Doing it less tight with the paste may let it move enough to creak… Use some copper slip or similar. If tonight's ride was wet, and it was not creaking, there's your answer.

my old easton ec70… you can see it move!

Thank you Manwells! I've wanted to build it since 2001, definatly a keeper – its getting some black fox vanilla 100 to finish the job soon 😀