Modern road brakes really are quite good.

After a couple of seconds of braking in the wet the become… acceptable. I’d certainly rather discs on my road bike.

I think the other big argument for them is that the the rim would not have to be as strong and therefore weight can be reduced at the most important place – the outer diameter of the wheels. I wonder if they would make disc clinchers that rival current tub rims for rim brakes…

Disc brakes on road bikes? completely unnecessary

So are gears, so is lycra, so is carbon fiber…

Do it then – you know you want to! I would if I had te spare cash to learn etc etc. I can’t seen how it is more dangerous than me cycling the A167…

You could always cycle 5 days per week, perhaps with the occasional public transport when you want some recovery. Yes, I’ve done that. It depends on how many hours you work and if (like teachers…) you work a million hours after work too.

Would you want to wait however long it takes for a frame to be repaired if your legal right was to a replacement or your money refunded?

No, but I would as a good will gesture of my own. I’d prefer that over potentially wasting the frame, annoying people who are clearly good willed and happy to fix it and costing their company for what appears to be an isolated problem.

Ye-es, but 24km is quite a way on only one banana. Porridge is apparently very good – slow release carbs, allegedly.

You don’t need to eat for that distance. When I started commuting 20miles each way, I would have a small bowl of crunchie nut before hand, and that was fine, but I now do 30 miles and don’t eat until I’ve arrived and showered. It makes much more difference to eat properly throughout the day/week to fuel you up properly (read: eat carbs).

Using 2×10 and every ratio on the cassette will give a worse chain line than the middle of the triple and every ratio of the cassette

Perhaps, but it is an more acceptable compromise that is designed into the 2×10 setup if I understand it correctly. That’s in contrast to the 3×9 setup which theoretically needs more shifting between front rings to maintain an ‘acceptable’ chain-line etc.

In the real world I don’t think it is all too important. I ride 2×9 and the chainline is not ideal, but it works and I don’t miss the little ring at all.

And then there is 3 x 10 to think about… which apparently is more efficient and powerful…

Shimano:

The Big S say that having a wider gear range at the back, more closely spaced gears at the front, and improved rear mechs and shifters, creates smoother and more intuitive shifting, more efficient and powerful pedalling, and allows the rider to stay in the middle and largest chainrings for a higher proportion of the time.

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/shimano-xt-and-slx-go-10-speed-in-2010-25297/

Surely you will use the front mech more, I tend to sit in the middle ring quite a lot at this time of year, 2×10 would split this. Not convinced by the weight saving of <50g.

A triple is not designed to be used in one ring over the full range of the casette, as there will be front mech rub and a poor chain line. If the ratios are right on a 2×10, you can use every ring on the casette in both rings, hence your should only be changing on the front rings with big changes of terrain.

Why bother with adjustable travel rear? Just get something that can use a propedal shock for the all day type riding. Not sure I’d want to ride uphill on 180mm travel forks though!

Stumpjumper EVO?

Using the front mech less, more options for bash guards and chain devices, less of a gap between ratios and lighter weight, especially if you do 1×10. Not that i’d get rid of an 8 or 9 speed setup to ‘upgrade’, but I will go 1/2×10 when i next need new shifters etc.

Apparently not – there was a thread last month that also linked to another thread, both of which concluded that they are rather poo… I’ve not heard bad about King or Phil Wood, and Hope seem to be getting mostly good reviews

Older Polo with 1.4 TDI – remap to 100bhp, 65MPG.

32/42 with a 11-32 casette does me for everything so far – done selkirk merida, nant-y-arian, hamsterley, glentress…
That sounds pretty impressive actually.

Thanks! I generally ride as fast as possible but I think it forces you to improve your fitness – some climbs have been tough but certainly not un-doable.

Please drop me an email to confirm – have you sold them to somebody else after our discussion a week ago, or is it me you have ‘sold’ them to?

Had this for about 6 years – it has been used for building bikes and working in a bike shop too, excellent:
Wiggle 1[/url]
New version looks better and has a mavic spoke key:
Wiggle 2[/url]

Paulo6624 please can you respond to email RE Fox Forks? If not my number is 07963122592.

32/42 with a 11-32 casette does me for everything so far – done selkirk merida, nant-y-arian, hamsterley, glentress…

Has anybody driven a petrol turbo? How do they compare to turbo diesels?

catflees:

will one day buy an elise but a series one

Thank you 🙂 Why do you prefer the series 1 out of interest? The lighter weight, or K-series?

Agree on the Miss Daisy – and it seems that a VX Turbo with 245hp is very realistic… not much will keep up with that! I’d have to compare NA to turbo charged petrol before I bought one!

There is also the dilemma of whether to have a lighter Elise, or a faster (in a straight line) VX220 with some more mod cons… I think I lean to the VX220

Dammit wrong forum! Please move!

A good compromise between service life, backup, re-building, eco-friendly (made in UK), performance, looks and price. I just wish that their bearings lasted linger in my ProII rear… the front is great thought! Headset still original after 6 years. Wouldn’t buy brakes… but have not owned them yet.

Thats what I expected to hear – do you know if there is there any way of measuring the chain-line to get the best position?

You can try to wet & dry it down and then re-lacquer that area – very cheap to do yourself. Powdercoat is much tougher and cheaper (about £50 depending where and what), paint can be prettier but more expensive to pay somebody to do it due to more stages. Where are you? You need to find a painter or powder-coater. Have a look for argos cycle on google too.

Specialized, and myself as a stumpjumper rider (2004 and 2009 models) reccommend a large frame for anybody over 5’10” – definatly try if you still think of going ahead. Or buy a large frame from eBay and swap!

Unless they have worn thin, leave them be 🙂 My XT 160mm are on 5 years of commuting and off-road use in all conditions, and have a lip because they are that thin…

Thats great news, I didn’t think that they did that! Thank you.

but who has a bearing puller or ball joint remover????

They cost very little and may be worth buying depending on the frame. Point taken on the hammer though 😉

Assuming that the thread is dead, you have a couple of options, all of which I’ve used successfully. If the crank thread is very knackered, you can’t use it again, so:

a) use a hammer to hit it close to the axle, put weight onto pedal end to try to force it off straight. Have somebody support the frame and rest the BB shell against wood blocks.

b) cut through the crank (saw) at a point that will cut across the hole for the axle, this relieves the tension and lets you tap it off

c) use a gear puller or similar as mentioned above. This is best for nicer/more delicate/more valuable frames.

d) ride it with the end bolt loose as mentioned, but be very careful and stay seated!

Have fun 🙂

What type of crank/bottom bracket, and what threads are bust?

Those are pretty good deals to avoid the hassle, thanks. I’ve decided to list as 2 have just sold for over £400 – fingers crossed!

Cheers,

Antony

Haha OK, my account number is 0123456789, sort 654321 😀

Thanks for the advice 🙂

PeterPoddy
That said, I still got a good price. It was just down on the midweek prices.

What time mid-week would you end it please?

Thats good advice, thanks! So do we all think that Sunday evening is better than ending on Thursday this week (2day auction) at 11am?

I agree for bike bits, but I’ve not sold anything like an iPhone before – I wondered if more people in offices will be bidding during office hours?

Cheers Z1ppy – I think that’s myself put off…

They really need to talk to Hope about testing and customer service. I don’t think Hope are THE best products, but they are the company I buy from!

z1ppy – Member
I kept looking at the Pace one (especially when on offer), but reports one here say they suck badly… personally I’ll be sticking with cheap and cheerful shimano BB’s for now..

Interesting, would you mind giving a link please? I’ve missed those discussions!

You may also want to look at the Pace BB – cheaper too I think. I’m considering the same options!

TooTall – Member
Are all hubs mass produced in factories in the Far East or are some of them made in countries with higher minimum wages, overheads, costs etc?

I believe that CK are made in america, and their facility is extremely environmentally friendly – they have a website with lots of info on.