That lovely Mr Gove says teachers only work 32.5 hours a week, and he should know. That looks like a cushy option, especially with the holidays as well. And the gold-plated pension.

I suspect you are taking the mick – otherwise you are clueless!

Teaching is a hard job to do and harder to do well. Job availability is an issue in some subjects. The holidays are good but the term-time usually consists of 50-60 hours per week plus the commute on top, although few people appreciate the 10-12 hour days for 5 days in a row plus a few at the weekend for good measure.

TJ – not sure, I’ll have another look to see if it’s been updated.

S-E666 & Jamesy – I’ll email you shortly, thanks!

It wasn’t much better than that this morning – it may well have thawed by tomorrow but I’d wait another day to be sure, or it’s a waste of travelling time.

Well that whole concept is new to me… AWESOME! Thanks for putting it up. I love it when kids realize that teachers are not boring losers. Because I’m a teacher 😀

I wonder about downloadable suspension setups for particular trial centers – Cannondale were working on something similar a few years ago!

I think you would be better attending the 29er day advertised on the home page of STW – if you convert, you’ll likely want new chainrings and cassette, bars and seatpost eventually, so it’d be better to buy the whole bike IMO

Rob Hilton – Yep, and I bet they still have a HT and full suss one!

Here’s some news for you – you’re not the majority of road bike riders. Most roadies have never used a disc brake, and aren’t so in love with the spurious advantages.

That’s not news to me, you can make your point without the personal touch. Once, road cyclists were not familiar with 7 speeds and brake levers being integrated with gear shifters, or carbon fiber, or integrated bearings. I’m sure rod brakes and narrower spacing than the current 130mm were once accepted as being good enough. The use of discs will be driven by demand, just like 29ers.

You seem to have forgotten wheel changes and neutral service, cost, lack of compatibility… apart from that the issues you mention are nowhere near as trivial as you imply – do I need to go on proving you’ve not actually thought it through properly?

Wheel changes are not any harder with discs, just different. Compatibility will be irrelevant if discs become commonplace, as when discs and suspension came to mountain bikes. They are not reasons to halt progress, people can continue to use their current equipment and make the change if/when they come to replacement. I’m still riding my 2001 GT, and will do for a long time. That doesn’t mean I think the 2012 full suspension bike with oversized everything, dropper post and tubeless tyres should not be offered.

Please do go on trying to prove I haven’t thought this through properly, I’d be happy to accept it if you can. Although, perhaps you could be wrong? Only time will tell!

This is good news!
For you and a few other biffer mountain bikers to whom road biking is a sideline.

Biffer 1. someone, such as a sportsperson, who has a reputation for hitting hard.

I’m not familiar with this term, but thanks? 😀 I ride road just as much as mountain; it’s inadvisable to make assumptions based on the limited information you have about me.

My VAG diesel is supposed to have a new air filter at 30,000 – but changing it at 10k or 15k makes a big difference to low RPM pull and the economy. Service it, then boot it for a good run (when it’s warmed up of course) – that’d be my first call.

aerodynamics are minor but the faster you go the more it matters, read Magura’s points on this.

If it mattered I’m sure it can be factored into a good frame design, i.e. the caliper could shielded from the wind a bit, but I suspect that without the need to have part of the frame close to the tyre, the frame and forks could be more slippery – one of the new aero bikes has seat stays that bulge out from the wheel to smooth the airflow… just a possibility.

The pros outweigh the cons IMO

36t+ cassettes have been around for over 10 years not sure you’d want them on your bike unless you gave a shopper or are a niche hoar pratt!

Or if you want to run less front rings. That comes across a bit rude.

Agreed on wasteful nature of bash and freehub – but spot on for racing applications where people care about weight.

I seriously want the colour matched hoops…

This is good news! The only *possible* arguments against road bikes with discs is that the chassis has to be stronger and therefore heavier in some areas (some of which can be recovered with disc specific bikes) and a slight aero dis-advantage. The weight can be removed from the rim, which is more beneficial, and the aero will not make any significant difference. Being able to shape the seat stays and forks for more aero advantage/comfort, and removing the hasstle of making carbon rims withstand head on big descents, more than makes up for these tiny cons! TT bikes can use rim brakes though, I’ll let them.

Interesting to hear that there is no real difference in support – I don’t clip out so i think it’ll be the race style

I’m sure the Shimano are uber reliable, it just bugs me big time that they don’t offer spares such as caliper piston seals! My old XTs need just that.

I’d probably go for larger rotors simply for the reduction in effort as I’m buying the bike with big intentions; I’m 100% certain 160 is all I would need for the UK. 180 for the Alps with ice tech rotors should be bullet proof, I think 160 may be pushing it a bit if I was ever using a lot of back brake.

I see…thanks sillyoldman.

I’ve pretty much decided on the trail in this case, perhaps I can even get away with a size smaller on the front rotor with them. At 72kg I reckon 180 F&R should be good.

I think I’m leaning toward the trails then… thanks!

I’m not sure about the modulation differences though – don’t they both use servo-wave tech?

Thanks so far fellas.

mtb matt – is the reach and bit point adjustment plentyful on the race, and do you think they will powerful enough with bigger rotors?

Hope V2s are a little too much for my use, although Hope is tempting for their support/spares/ability to re-build…

Would 25c tyres run at a slightly lower pressure be quicker than the 23c tyres

To answer this:
I’m certain that a study by a tyre testing center (I assume this can can be found using google) which is used by tyre manufacturers concluded that a larger volume tyre (consequently ran at a lower pressure) was more efficient over imperfections in the road surface because the deformation of the tyre wasted less energy at the lower pressure. Though I am sire that there are some finer details that I may have mis-quoted or just missed, it basically said 25c were faster. I believed the science, bought 25c tyres and I swear that it’s true – lower pressure is better on anything but perfect surfaces (although more comfort and more cornering grip are more noticeable than any increase in speed!).

I’ve got a short travel full suss and a similar hardtail, and for that terrain I’d agree the Fire XCs are a good all round bet, although I also like the Maxxis crossmark (worked well front and rear but only tried one at a time). You’ll only be short of grip in proper mud with either of those two.

Specialized Storm – can’t recommend enough. Not too draggy, plenty of grip in loose dirt and wet mud, clears really well, decent volume for a 2.0.

Not sure on the newer models, but mine is used a lot and has been since 2005… the only ‘problems’ have been the OH spilling tea over is (new keyboard) and the battery no longer holding charge. She has had 3 in the time I’ve had this, and her third no longer works.

If the kid is pushing it (you’ve warned him/her and the tantrums continue) you have to follow through with the consequence. Personally, I’d hide the presents, and when they are really very sorry, find the presents again 😉

IMO of course, though I hope being a teacher gives weight to my opinion.

I really rate the sotrm – awesome in the mud! Used on a HT and just a bit more pressure than larger volume tyres.

Basically, CK use very high tolerances and very high quality bearings, along with a clutch mechanism instead of pawls and springs, making the engagement pretty much instant, and the bearing life very very good. It’s different depending who you ask, but my hope rear has needed new bearings (5 sealed) every year, the front never. It is very rare for CK hubs to need new bearings!

Then you have the angry bee noise of CK, compared to the mental loud click of the pro 2…

Although it is not being reported, teachers are not striking against the pension reforms. The working conditions and performance management changes are also priorities. As has already been touched upon, the government are not making the truth obvious. I’m sure that anybody with a good understanding of what it s like to work in schools at the minute would understand and support the strike.

http://www.nasuwt.org.uk/Whatsnew/NASUWTNews/PressReleases/OverwhelmingVoteForQuietRevolutionToReclaimTheClassroomEng/NASUWT_008618

I’m using these LINK

– grip had been fine, though not as good as the Grand Prixs, however for half the price they are what I use for milage and decent grip on mine. I used them in crit races and for training/commuting, only ever noticed a disadvantage in the wet crits. No punctures so far (2000 miles).

At least £100 IMO.

Make sure your rim is not wearing too thin – unlikely to increase pad wear but likely if you’ve used a lot of pads, and you don’t want the tyre blowing off!

aracer – Member
Once you’ve got the brakes more powerful through some of the reasons suggested, consider fatter and/or stickier tyres.

I’ll consider that when I can skid the front wheel under braking

I can do that in the wet, and the OP said that he fears for his life in the wet, hence he would probably appreciate more grip to brake and corner, especially when commuting. I’m sure you know that all about the benefits and drawbacks of bigger tyres, although I’m not sure why you are rolling eyes at my suggestion or giving an opinion on behalf of the guy I was responding to.

Once you’ve got the brakes more powerful through some of the reasons suggested, consider fatter and/or stickier tyres. I’m only 11st and I notices the extra stability of 25c over 23.

I really like the music – what is it please?

Sound. I’ll send you an email to put myself in the que! Thanks

Hi Troutie,

Exciting news to hear that the hope 2 LED is now up-gradable! I was talking to you about it via email last year. Are you able and happy to upgrade my Mk1 sometime soon please? If so, please drop me an email (swalsey@hotmail.com) with your address and I’ll pop it in the post ASAP.

Does it retain a switch at the back of the lamp unit, or is there something else as in the earlier MTBR link?

Thanks,

Antony

Hi,

I think you should look into what happens if you do not get compensation from her, just in case. I was hit in a hit and run, however the driver was never found. There is an organisation (called the motor insurance bureau IIRC) who can pay out in such cases, but will only do so if you have injuries that have been documented. I didn’t have my minor injuries documented and so they would not pay out for my wrecked bike etc. If you haven’t already, go to the doctors of A&E, just to cover your back. Get well soon and I hope your get adequate compensation.

Repair now – if you run them then you risk dirt getting in and wearing much more than the stanchions, and it’s cheaper than replacing them in 2 years. Take this from a lad wrecking FLOATs, including the spring, bushes and stanchions. Get some kashima stanchions and look after them I say 🙂

I work in Edinburgh Bicycle and we sell one that will be fine on any frame as they clamp onto a modifier QR for the rear hub, so no clamping on the frame. They are very stable in use and I’d go for it, although I wouldn’t fancy pulling my kid on a road in it for obvious reasons:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=10856&f_FullProductVersion=1

If you’re happy then re-build them, there’s no reason you cannot have another 7 years from them. Much more ‘green’ too!

They haven’t been looked after very well IMO – 40-50 rides and suspension forks need at least one clean and lube under the seals. I’m not sure about the frame but I would expect wear and teach suspension pivots to be replaceable, and worn pivots not to permanently knacker the frame itself. You are being cool – I hope you got a good deal 🙂

I think it may be – popularity after the last olympics and with more media coverage. I’ve started road riding because it was a natural progression from XC and finding time and money to go to descent off-road trials (not just man made) is difficult.