I bodged somebody's casette with a zip tie in the alps – a thick zip tie to fill the gap caused my a cross-threaded lock-ring! Any zip tie stories would be interesting and simple

Used to work at Newcastle EBC and in my experience the nexus is a bit more faff to get the rear wheel out (mudguards don't affect that though) but after a couple of times it's easy enough – you need a spanner though!

Hi petesgaff,

My girlfriend and myself have been following this and just want to add our best wishes to you and your family. Your srength is awe-inspiring!

Antony & Amy

These-replies-are-makin-her-feel-very-uilty

🙂

Havn't-ot-insurance-yet,just-finishe-uni

🙁

Thanks-anyway,

Antony

Brilliant-if-so!
Thank-you!

Thanks all, didn't expect help to cheer up about it too 🙂

daffy – it is a vaio vgn-fs315e. There are some keyboards and top cases with the touch-pad fitted on Ebay – would you reccomend buying and giving it a go?

I've-been-havin-to-copy-an-paste-letters-an-spaces

🙁
Antony

I have a polo for my first car – low insurance (avoid the 1.0 model though) an fit 2 bikes in with wheels off and seats down 🙂

I ride a wide variety of terrain in the UK, and if you are aggresive or adventurous (especially in the lakes/rocky areas) I'd go for a wider rim. I only weigh 11.5st and I've killed 4 seperate 717 rims (3 dented and buckled multiple times, one crash) – I blamed the first two on them being 2nd hand, but they dent easily and are not very strong IMO. Main problem is they are very narrow, so you have to use <2.1 tyres and even with 2.1S, the tyre sits rounded and I always got pinch flats at less than 50psi!

Correct if using the same rotor 🙂 (I've done this with XT)

I've found sealed cables work brilliantly over winter with a lot of use, I think you'd benefit on the bike(s) you mention to suffer from deterioting shifting.

I wasn't fussed with mine, it was… adequate, although the price was spot on. It was rubbish with a rigid pace fork (corrected for 80mm), the geometry didn't like that.

I think you can do it, no problem.

Boxxy… hurts. Silly me, not googling it first – I assumed it was more local slang. Ta 🙂

XT and XTR shifters run on sealed bearings – smoother, more durable and less likely to develop play, and IMO you can feel the difference 🙂

@kingtrout – aye, I think my answer should simply be 'no', but with all the other crap added on to justify myself 🙂

@charliemort – unsprung mass is the mass (or weight) that is not supported (or above) the suspension, so your suspension fork lower legs, disc brake caliper, wheels etc are un-sprung, the frame and the rider are sprung. Reducing the un-sprung mass means that the suspenion works more effectively as it less mass must be moved during responses to terrain and rider input.

@ctznsmith – that view can only be true if other factors are taken into account, i.e. it is much easier/cheaper for the average rider to lose 10lb from their own weight than the bike, and in some cases (wheels/tyres) the mass lost has a greater effect on speed than losing body mass.

As far as rider / bike weight goes, the bike is easier to move in all aspects (uphill or in the air) if the mass is lower, but so is the rider – if you compare the 150lb rider on a 20lb bike to the 140lb rider on the 30lb bike, I'd say that the two would be as quick IF their power outputs remained identical (not considering different rotational mass etc).

On a decent bike, after a decent set of wheels there is little point in spending big money on weight reduction unless the rider has a decent power output, strength and realistically low body amounts of body fat.

kingtrout is on the money – overall weight is far more important (assuming similar power output).

I'd break it, I've had a lot of good experience in the classifieds with some persistence 🙂

Hi

If you have any major concerns then call Mojo (google Mojo fox suspension) but if you have followed replaced what was lost it should be fine. They NEED a certain amount of oil in each leg (different amount in each) otherwise they may get damaged, and tbh having the lowers off would be ideal to drain the old dirty oil out and replace it (guessing you didn't do that) so you could always change the oil to be on the safe side.

Antony

Ohhh is it black with copper flames by any chance? That's worth a lot to me! I think the one I'm after was the year before yours though…

Because some people are proud

Because other people may want to look

New thread: Why do people post threads asking questions purely to criticise other people? If it really does stress you then I think you're funny 🙂

XTR 950 rear mech – 4 frames and all year round use since 2004!

Definatly worth it after trying to be cheap and suffering:

1) Winter gloves
2) Overshoes or seal-skinz socks
3) clothing that covers your knees

Done.

My OPINION: I think the bars will be a nicer shape for you, and it will look nicer, but it is heavy – I've got the bars and seatpost on Ebay right now for a mate, personally I would spend your forty-odd quid on a nice stem or some EA70 bars – especially since the classified have a few nice ones lately.

I used a set of Specialized Nimbus all last year – spot on they were, and they are cheap!

You need to use a good D-lock, bolt cutters won't get throught those – try Kryptonite or Abus.

The child's perspective: My parents separated when I was doing GCSEs, and 8 years later (now) my little brother is still suffering because of it. If both sides are capable of not arguing in front of the kids and making parenting decisions together then do it. Saying that, thats how parents should behave when together… I'd hazard a guess that each case is different and you have to choose the best action.

I would take it apart, fully clean and de-grease the steerer and wedge, then re-assemble – only grease the part of the wedge that slides as you tighten it, you want friction on the outside… you could also try some assembly compound for carbon bits to give it more bite.

Danger Mouse – they are 2008/9 Crossmax STs, no pics as yet but I'll be posting a pic of the build in a few weeks when its done 🙂

My hope has lasted 3 frames and 4 years so far, everything from winter commuting to filthy off-road, and I've not touched it. I'd only pay more for the chris king if I was bothered about the anodising quality, as the hope colours (not black or silver) seem to fade, whereas I've not seen a faded King.

More here:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/credit-where-its-due-merlin-cycles

I definatly rate the brain – I owned a 2008 expert AND a 2004 pro for a year, and the brain effect was great – you miss it once you have to switch back to pro-pedal after realising that you are bobbing away on climbs, and then when I got back onto the 2008 out of saddle sprints on smooth sections felt much more worth it 🙂

I'd take it to a mechanic at the LBS – I don't know whether the hub splines or the rotor is the softer metal (if either) but its possible that the hub is fine and either torquing it up or replacing the rotor will solve. I just think that it being Shimano it probebly won't be wrecked 🙂

Middleburn do cheaper alternatives specifically for them – Chain Reaction Cycles have them 😉

spokes are obvious, but what abour some shaved down brake/gear levers, or even rear mech plates?

It depends on a lot of factors so hours/miles of use can change. Just change the chain when a chain checker says it is worn/stretched, and change the rings when they don't run properly – the big rings often last a long time, i.e. more than 3 chains, if you keep it clean and lubed.

Get a double! You barely loose anything and worst case scenario is you'll get fitter or maybe a better cadence

I'll second theotherjonv on having the rings available when you fit the chains and testing them before an epic ride

No problem – I'll continue!

If the chain has stretched running on the rings, the chain and cassette will have worn, but it's only a problem when the chain has worn beyond 1% and the gap between contact points on the rings becomes too large for a no-worn chain to run.

Say if you run a chain to 2% stretch on the rings (which will also have worn to match), them put a new chain on at 0.5% stretch – the distance between pins on the new chain will be shorter than the worn contact points on the old rings, so it won't run properly. By replacing the chain more frequently you maximise the life of the rings & cassette – you can easily get multiple chains worn out before the cassette and rings need replacing. I'd aim for three per cassette, although if you tend to use certain rings more than others (i.e. granny ring) you may find they need replacing sooner.

If that not clear, don't think about it and aim to replace cassette and rings after 3 worn chains. Feel free to ask if I can be of more help, but don't waste your hard earned until closer to 1% 🙂

Working at a bike shop, we wouldn't reccomend you changed the chain until it is closer to 1% stretched. The manufacturers go along these lines too, and if you change the chain on or before this point the chainrings & cassette it has ran on will run sweet with a new chain – so I'd etch more life out of that chain!

To answer the question though, there isn't a tool for the rings that I'm aware of, you get to learn the look of wear, but if that chain you measured at 0.75 was on them for new I would keep them on – if you get chain such or it slips under power change them by all means. Hope this essay helps!