I heard Holland welcomed bikes. Strange that they’d barr it.

Deserves more credit!

Did it in the summer of ca. 1996, not much help, but plenty of sun and the worst storm ever experienced on a bike, possibly with some casualties in the neighbouring valley. This is when I invested in a proper GoreTex jacket…

Hi Martin, well done for winning thread of the week!

Cheerio, Sven

I could be wrong but I don’t think a NH movement will fit a 7002 case

You are right, @Fudd, it was just a matter of my having ordered an NH movement already, but Saccades said he would take it, he can probably make better use of it than I can.

Which means that I am still without a replacement movement for my 7002-7020, but I am sure that can be sorted, too…

I’ve mucked up, that’s not an uncommon skx171 but a variant of a 7002 (7020) I’d never seen/heard of

No worries, @Saccades, I should have mentioned that number on the back of the watch.

Sorry, I thought I was helping

You were, I never learned that much about watches before. I won’t get into modding, but feel a little more knowledgeable… Thanks again for your help.

Oh and nice to hear from Sven when he’s not busy on ISIHAC…

You know the current thread They’re not the same

Well, it turns out there are more than 2 Svens! I am NOT the one from ISIHAC, but the reindeer from Frozen!

Post of the year for me on this thread. Brilliant!

I agree, I hadn’t even hoped to get such a good answer, thanks also to @Fudd for the advice on the crown and stem.

Sven (the reindeer)

Thank you, @Saccades, that’s a fantastic piece of information, great!

I’ll go ahead ordering a 4R36 or nh36 and will give it a go… if I can lace my own wheels, I hope that is not too hard?!

And yes, maybe the horologer wasn’t all that clued up on Seiko watches after all, he only told me that the movement was discontinued (which seems correct, but no mention of a successor), at least he didn’t charge me for his failed attempts at repair.

Thanks again

Sven

Dear watch-lovers of singletrack, you may be able to help just as brilliantly as you do with bike-related issues!? I had a Seiko Automatic since 1996, went through many straps, and the occasional adjustment when it started going a little fast or slow, but the last adjustment at a decent watch repair shop ended in a terminal failure of the mechanism:

No reason not to trust the guy, seemed like a decent shop, but he said he cannot repair it or get parts after it gave up while lying on that shaking platform for a few days. Hence my question: Do you happen to know whether I can buy a mechanism that slots nicely into the empty space of the watch’s body, whether it be an automatic or battery operated one I don’t mind.

Thanks in advance

Sven

…as if your cable routing is up the seatstay as mine is…

At least it means you can use the cable guides if they run along the right seat stay!

…but was a bit concerned that would leave the box susceptible to water ingress through the cable entries?

I had this geometry on my previous Rohloff build based on an On-one Scandal, don’t think I noticed water ingress, but I also added some heat shrink at a later point.

…I’m guessing your Rohloff has saved you in excess of 10 kg worth steel and aluminimum in chains and cassettes…

And it saved my a lot of money, too, after the initial outlay. I guess the main reason I have changed sprockets and chainrings were because I wanted to try different ratios, not because they were worn out :)

…it uses an driveside arm similar to the Rohloff Monkeybone…

Monkey bione is what I used on the Scandal in the picture above, one can even make out the Monkey underneath the left IS bolt.

Sven

Not into the drop-outs, but into the seat stays, once at the top and 2 holes lower down along the seat stays, and even that held up…

I even drilled holes into the top tube for poor men’s internal cable routing, and shortly after Brant was sitting at the table next to mine in a pub, and he said: holes in the TOP tube, that’s fine…

Sven

Thanks for the write-up, legometeorology, I don’t think that threat deserves to go on page 2 already, very informative.

I didn’t know the 7-speed version is so competitive in terms of weight, though I never thought the Rohloff weight is a massive (!) issue. People never complain about not being able to bunny hop despite the popularity of huge cassettes with their own gravitational field and tyres weighing 1000g, and suddenly hub gears apparently make a huge difference… because they are not in fashion? (But then I am biased, I have been riding a Rohloff-equipped bike as my main MTB since 2005)

Is that a Pipedream frame BTW?

What is this silver ‘thing’ above the right dropout, some kind of torque arm, or how does your hub deal with the torque?

The hydraulic shifters on the  Kindernay  are very  neat, though I should plug the fact that I made my own trigger shifters for the Rohloff hub using the Gebla box, 2 dropper levers, and a custom-3D-printed clamp, see

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/new-ish-bike-steel-british-mullet-rohloff-3d-printed-gebla-ztto-shifter/

Sven

I’ve done that to a Pace 527 with a 29er front wheel and 120 mm forks, I think they otherwise recommend 130 to 150 mm forks in 27.5 flavour. Works fine for me, but I have not much to compare with.

https://www.mmcgcarehomes.co.uk/care-homes/oaklands?
North of Wetherby… Felt nice when grandmother-in-law was there.

Xodo was good good but they charge, so now I use Drawboard.

@voodoo-rich, incidentally, I have the same Velo Orange stem, AND also painted to match the frame (no splatter, just plain metallic blue), but it’s not the tall stack height I like (my back likes it more and more, though), but the fact that it looks neater with the single clamp bolt facing forwards, so it resembles an old quill stem rather than an ahead-set stem.

Good experience with Mad Wave prescription goggles, both for my daughter and me.

Out of all the high-street opticians, I only tried Boots (for work prescription glasses), and cannot say anything bad about them, but I normally ‘trust’ the local opticians more…
If Rawtenstall or Haslingdon are not too far, David Gould has been exceptionally good!

I beg to differ @hexhamstu :)

‘normal’ Rohloff MTB

Pace RC627 ?

I just got my SC32s serviced by John Aitken cycles in Leamington Spa, they can still get hold of spares from some US supplier who bought most/all stock when Maverick folded…

I think I have the 2019 version, 31.6 mm still.

I can understand 3d printing complicated things … but why the Rohloff plate?

You are right, just because it was much easier and cheaper (though not free) to get things 3D-printed through work rather than machined. And those dropouts would have been far beyond my skills with a metal saw and file…

what material are they printed in and how long does it take? Any finishing needed after printing?

The shifter and left dropout are steel, not sure how long the actual printing took (a couple of hours?), the long wait was due to the pieces having to be sent off for ‘baking’, as I understand it to get rid of the epoxy that is mixed with the steel for printing. No special surface treatment applied afterwards as far as I am aware of.

The right dropout was actually machined from aluminium, the first printed prototype wasn’t quite right, and I changed jobs (lost access to 3D printing), so it was machined in China, but arrived within a few days of ordering!

I like the hub, not as nice as my Rohloff, but a little cheaper 😂 Bomb-proof(ish) inside, easy to take apart, and yes, I did the adjustment of the shifting point. I am still pretty pleased every time the hub changes gear by itself, automatixally…
I have the version with the coaster brake, hence no cables to the rear of the bike, only one cable to the mechanical disc up front.

SRAM Automatix and North Road Bar? I give you my shopping/commuter bike…

However, I don’t think that’s quite what you are after, with your frame, and while avoiding drop bars, I would still go for something a little lower, ideally flat, which happens to look better, like a Nitto Dove, or Velo Orange Porteur or Milan?

Any ideas what to do with the glass panels?

DIY Garden Pavilion ideas?

I bought one of those adapters from Spokey Dokey bikes in August last year, they were great to deal with, and I am using it with a 160mm rotor on the fork.

McMillan Landscapes in Todmorden seem nice guys, great work on our neighbour’s terrace/garden

Both M5 bolts, driveside around 20mm long, NDS around 22mm.
(just bought a 627 off here)
Sven

Rim brakes? Upright? Possibly Ti?
Maybe something from Spa Cycles?
Spa Ti Audax frame

Rohloff since 2005, would buy one again.

If I won the eMTB World Championships AND then chopped off the hand of some poor soul who was just having a drink of RedBull, I wouldn’t then pose holding said chopped-off hand in my own hand…

It’s neither “eine” nor “ein”, but “eins” when counting, I had to be pedantic…

An old Serotta T-max, early 90s, fillet brazed, and SS’ed using my own eccentric bottom bracket, designed and built before Trickstuff came out with theirs.

Sven

You could use one ‘standard’ (SS or 3/32) chain with TWO quick links and two shorter parts of a chain, one with say 6 links, the other with 8.5 links, i.e. only get one half-link rather than a whole half-link chain.

Something by Soma Fabrications, they have a few steel frames with sliding dropouts, not cheap, but not Boutique expensive…
Sven

Baby Jogger City Elite or Baby Jogger City Mini GT

Rohloff on my main MTB since 2006, maybe around 10 oil changes (if not fewer) in that time, and once I sent the wheel back to Rohloff, not that anything was wrong with it, I just felt someone taking it apart after 10 year for servicing might be a good idea; no charge apart from postage!

It’s on an aluminium hardtail, my SS is lighter, my FS much heavier, so I like how light the bike feels. A derailleur bike might be 500g max lighter, but more punctures, really? Strangely enough this argument never comes up when people go on about the virtues of 1x drivetrains even though many cassettes have their own gravitational field, right at the same point where the Rohloff sits on mine (ignoring tubeless for a second, which eliminates snakebites anyway).

Positives: I spend less time servicing/repairing/replacing things and more time riding, looks ‘clean’, can shift while stationary or hopping before an obstacle, nice and quiet/no chain slapping, far less sensitive to the cable tension not being 100%; makes me more likely to go riding when muddy…
Negatives: read-wheel removal takes 10sec longer (track ends in my case with MonkeyBone), TwistShifter (I don’t mind it too much, BUT: has anyone experimented with dropper post levers left and right, is the cable pull similar to Rohloff or the Cinq5 shifters?), I am not limited to frames with 135mm rear spacing.
For the future: Conversion kit to 142 or 148mm frames, and e-shifting kit by Rohloff for non-e-bikes, that would be neat.

I once took my bike on a train stuffed into a thin sleeping bag liner (the bike, not the train), obviously with both wheels off, no problem. We had two bike reservations, but three bikes, hence the extra ‘parcel’. Other cyclists were (unfortunately) thrown off the train, they didn’t have a reservation, and only two bikes per train, but that was in Scotland. Time off you Tonbridge train?

I don’t think I would travel to the Alps for a one-day race like the Cristalp, at least you get a week out of the TransAlp. I was in my early 20s when I completed the TransAlp, I would say I was a fairly sporty person overall, but still only cycled once a week for 2-3 hours, twice at most, but being fairly young helped in the sense that I just kept going. I had done two guided alp-crossings before with far less mileage/climbing, but given that you don’t spend an hour at lunchtime sitting in a hut during the TransAlp, but you are fed at the feeding stations, and everything is so well organised, the long distances and the climbing result in days that don’t feel overly long, yes, you spend the best part of the day in the saddle, but you arrive mid-afternoon, with enough time to recover (rather than arriving in the evening and falling into bed).
Also, while you go at your own pace, and don’t have to overdo it, given that there are 100s of other riders, this kind of drags you along when you are not feeling your best. I would say: do it!

I reckon you mean the bike transalp race, not just a (guide) tour? I did the race, but many years ago, 1999 to be precise. It was tough, but I loved it. People will now tell you that it was/is too XC-like, but I am sure it has gone with the times and it’s more technical nowadays, not that I thought it was too fireroad-ish 20 years ago. Very well organised!