https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/one-way-bleeding.html

So this looks like Shimano have finally admitted there was a problem and have done something to sort it and I only have to buy new calipers! Balls 😂

Entered.

I’ve been looking forward to this since finishing last year’s.. was a great weekend

survivor ^^^ it’s highly unlikely greetings cards are made from virgin fibre; they probably aren’t 100% recycled either.
You do understand that paper, card and board production is highly sustainable?
You might benefit from reading up on pulp & paper production, recycling and sustainability

I’m not on a particular environmental high horse nor do I care about reading up on recycling or sustainability of cards.

My problem is it’s entirely pointless in the first place.

You’ve been brain washed by the evil card making corporations to think you need to buy and send cards. You don’t. No one cares. Free yourself from their bonds brother. 😂

Good riddance..

I think the greeting card industry needs to go altogether… All those trees, all that fuel in transportation for what? For someone to look at a card then throw it in the bin a few days later. One of man’s less intelligent inventions as far as I’m concerned.

Also

Pushing the damper in by hand shouldn’t cause problems as it just expels the excess oil if there is any. You didn’t do this loads of times at different angles did you? As in forcing more fluid out than in normal operation?

Can you feel the effects of rebound adjustment with the lowers off by hand?

As in fully open it has no resistance, fully closed its really slow?

Grip2 is a cartridge but has an overflow port to release excess oil that is dragged past the seals.
You put the damping fluid in as lowers oil as it will inevitably get in.

Clever idea really. I guess this is why other cartridge forks pop eventually as they drag lowers oil into the closed system and run out of room to cope with the excess oil.

Doesn’t help OP mind you… 😂

You didn’t hit the rebound adjuster by accident to remove the lowers did you?

I remove the foot nut by backing it off a little leaving the socket on then hitting that to break the interference fit.

In my early days I caught the adjuster while doing this and it damaged the rebound components.

I’m my Honda civic it was weirdly the best nights sleep I’ve ever had! I miss that car 😂

I just did the assessment days not the whole course but from that experience I’d say your over thinking it.

It’s super chilled out and interesting. Level 2 is basic stuff. Nothing hard at all. If you can work on a bike already you’ll be fine. What you’ll get from the course is a more professional attitude for working on bikes.

I’d actually say don’t go reading everything you can before the course. Just turn up with your listening head on and enjoy it.

You’d have to be alarmingly incompetent to fail. Like a danger to yourself and others 😂

I’ve done the compromise agreement thing.

It wasn’t working for me or employer. I took it personally and fought tooth and nail. It had me ill and eventually led to a compromise agreement.

Best outcome really.

I look back at that time now and facepalm at how personally I took it. I could of saved myself so much stress if I hadn’t but I wasn’t well at the time.

Treat it like a game, work is just pretend anyway. It’s not your real life. That’s outside of work.

Either just swap jobs now and save the hassle or play the game, keep your cool and get a nice little payout and a reference as part of the compromise agreement.

Just looked at the ’82 book. Nearly everything is the same price as today!

I noticed that on a few things I looked at. Wonder if that’s to do with most of it being made over here back then so seemed expensive at the time where as now it’s all made in the fair east so has essentially stayed the same price but is actually cheaper in real terms?

It doesn’t matter how well you prepare….

You will still forget or over look something… 😂

Just do your build when the LBS is open for that but you’ve forgotten

Sooooo…. I’m kinda one of those for whom it wrong for.

Got carried with mainly weed and some ecstasy use..

I loved the stuff but had to admit defeat after my mental health plummeted. 20 years later I still struggle. I’ve been given a life sentence for my teenage decisions.

Skunk was kinda new when I started but got easier to get as years went by. It is far more potent than resin of the time so don’t doubt with heavy use it can flip that switch for those who are susceptible. Me, as it turns out. Didn’t know at the time but our family has a long history of mental health problems.

My mother in particular went ballistic with me at the time but I did the teenage rebel thing and carried on regardless so kicking off is not the best solution.

My advice, connsider any history of mental health problems in your family, have a sensible conversation and lay out the risks of heavy and unhealthy use and feel free to show your son my post as a warning of what can happen if he gets a taste for it and his use gets out of hand.

After all this I’m not anti weed but I learned the hard way that, moderation is key…

Good luck

Let’s be honest. No one is gonna disagree with you. It is a bit poor form.

Rather than be a social media warrior why not try to contact Danny directly somehow? He might be more inclined to help out.

Had similar experiences when I sent a customers brake back. Back within the week swapped for new.

My Shimano via Maddison took 6 weeks!

I’ve got a rohloff on my rigid 29er…. Does a bit of everything. Love it’s clean look and simplicity… Does occasionally feel draggy but that’s only when in the lower 7 gears where the noise makes you notice it more. Off road this is less noticeable as tyre noise etc hide it a bit, you then don’t think it’s as draggy 😂

Wouldn’t have it on a trail bike though, suspension or hard tail. Weight distribution and grip shift would put me off but then I haven’t tried it and probably won’t as I can’t be arsed!

I don’t know anyone else who uses a geared hub off road like I do,

I’d like to try a pinion full suspension bike though just to see

Whoops. Accidentally bought a Big Dog frame after seeing this….

This is why I’ll never be rich 😂

`Knipex the RR of adjustable wrench/plier things

My experience as well Bez and better explained than my rattle description

This lack of stiffness would then lead to the stays or guards themselves fouling on the tyres eventually, usually on some rough DH singletrack, and folding up, ripping themselves to pieces…

Again I’ll point out that I know blummels were never designed for the abuse I would give them so went looking for a solution to my specific needs.

The pletscher guards do not have the plasticity stiffness issues due to the thicker aluminium extrusion. They do not move at all..

Ideal product would be a much thicker plastic guard in the same shape and size as the pletscher thus reducing their weight.

These come close https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/bluemels-75-u/ but if you look at pics of them on a bike they aren’t full coverage on the rear and still have the spindly stays as the normal blummels.

I’ve just got into bike packing this year. Had enough trips out now to start each one wondering whats going to go wrong this time 😂 just roll with it. It’s part of the fun and makes for a good story when you get back.

@shermer75 Guards are still solid as rocks and rattle free 7 months on. They’ve had all sorts of abuse this summer and not needed touching once. Worth every penny but again they aren’t lightweight. I did get a surprise when I picked the box up when they were delivered. They are 3mm thick solid aluminium full coverage guards and are very wide. There is no escaping that.

@nedrapier yeah they do have those channels in. Think they are for running light/dynamo cables along but I’d rather do without them for reduced weight. I intended to cut them out when I got the guards but access proved tricky so I just ran a bead of silicone sealant along which has blocked them off.

@tjagain you couldn’t be more wrong there bud. Your underestimating how solid these are. Not a peep has been heard since I installed them. I also put bits of amalgamated tape where they touch the fork crown and the chainstays to deaden the contact points.

@MalvernRider I’d take a guess and say yes. I’ve got a 2,6 up front now and the 80mm covers that fine with room to spare. Just…. In hindsight I would of bought the 65mm, saving a bit of weight as I’ll probably drop back to a 2.3 tyre at some point. The 2.3 I have on the back has loads of room either side.

Don’t rush I’d say and keep looking.

I managed to find a 2010 lwb kangoo in immaculate condition with only 45000 miles on it and I over paid at £4000. This was a couple of years back and it’s been faultless since.

Non worked vans are out there, you just have to be patient then very quick as they don’t sit long 👍

No problem at all. Get in touch if you need anything else.

Just to add. My thoughts on the frames being the same are entirely my own based on what I’ve seen when they are next to each other. I may be wrong though 😂

Ok. I’m your man here I think 😂

I’ve got a 2015 longitude with rohloff hub.

A friend has a 2018 frame and the only visible difference is the fork is beefed up a bit. Other than that looks exactly the same as mine. I think after 2016 they just used the 2015 design again.. Remember it was a bike that could take 29+ it wasn’t designed as a 29+ bike if that makes sense. The switch to 27.5+ was marketing not an actual design change. So going off what I’ve seen of my friends frame it would take 29+ as well if needed.

I think your thoughts on a suss fork are correct on a non 2016 frame as like I said my 2015 and the 2018 look identical bar the slightly stronger looking fork.

2017 frame was advertised as a rohloff frame as it has the little rectangular horizontal slot to hold the torque arm against. The other frames don’t but they do have a non rectangular slot in exactly the same location so can also be used to hold the torque arm.

I made the mistake of buying a QR rohloff(used) when rohloff recommend a bolt up version for use with horizontal dropouts. Theory being you’d have to have the QR done up to tight to hold it which could damage the hub. In reality this hasn’t been a problem. I use frame tugs and don’t seem to have to have the QR overly tight. It does slip a tiny bit but not enough to cause problems. I’ve got mine geared low and load the bike up with kit. If it was gonna slip, this high load, high torque from the low gearing is where it would do it but it’s been fine.

The bike itself is great though and you won’t regret it if you buy one I’m sure

Front mechs can get splayed (especially if the chain jams between a chainring and the mech).

If the high limit is set “correctly” (outer plate to chain gap in highest gear correct) it will not shift up, if the H limit is wound out until the inner plate can push the chain up there is a high chance of overshifting.

Can be hard to see, bowed outer plates are normally obvious, inners can be more tricky. Modern mechs with convoluted shapes when new are harder to see slight bends.

You can sometimes carefully reshape a front mech with a pair of waterpump pliers to get you going.

That’s the one…. You’ve reminded me of a one I did where the front mech was more obviously misaligned so knipex’d back into shape….

The others I bet I’ve not noticed as like you say the shapes are hard to see what is right or wrong. I’ll keep this in mind next time I get a tricky up shifter.

Cheers. Everyday is a school day 👍

While there’s a few of us here do any of you other mechanics every have trouble with the shifting on compact doubles..

I’ve had three or four where it’ll struggle into big ring. Usually have been fine in the stand but then won’t or struggle to shift while riding.

Have spent too much time fiddling with these. Couple we even put new rings on, better but still not great.

Done all the usual and correct setup and few of us have had a go for second opinions as you think your going mad but same results. Next thing would of been front mech but they didn’t look too bad to be honest.

Anyone had similar problems or scan shed some light on this as it’s increasing my hate of all things roadie 😂

Got two. Love them. What was more important though was getting my arse measured and finding out I have need wider saddles 😂… Probably made the most difference

Oh yeah. I also had to use the warranty on the swingarm as well 😂 but you’ve never really owned an orange unless you’ve cracked it!

Did enjoy mine but the rebound blowing several times soured it. I did use it to its limits, I’m tall and was about 14st at the time but ultimately I’d say the tiny shock can’t keep up with what the bike is capable of.

I’d look elsewhere if your a bigun as you’ll have to run high psi. Could be ok mind if your just steady away on it but I think I wasn’t the only one who came to this conclusion going from a thread on here sometime ago.

Probably staying in or around merthyr tydfil….

I’ve no real clue about the area so it’s there any decent GPS routes of maps for the non signed routes?

Yeah by technical I mean steep I guess. We’ll be on the ‘cringe’ enduro bikes so something to suit them but not afraid of a pedal out.

Plot twist. If your bearings feel fine could you have a creaky CSU on your forks? I know I flipping do 🤨

Woohoo/damn it!!!

I want to go look, you know just for a look but I know what may happen…. It appears I’ve become an alpkit whore by accident! They are emptying my bank account!

Great aren’t they 😂

I’ve been bombing about on mine as well.

Agreed. The gearing is odd. I can’t put my finger on it though. Feels like a lot of power loss in the hub. I’ve described it like pedaling through gravy. Effort doesn’t seem to equal output but for the short trips I’m using it for it doesn’t matter.

I’ve upgraded mine with a rear rack and a handwritten in Sharpie letter M in front of the ofo 🤘

Last week they sent me one I of those all in one snorkeling masks… Again no record of it…

I’m not sending it back though. I count it as a loyalty gift 👍

Had this at work once. In a moment of rare genius I popped it in the vice, give it a squash and it popped the bead off. The came off as normal afterwards

Curses. Foiled again….. I would of got away with it if it wasn’t for the pesky salt………

Sooooo all you number and science nerds….. How much sodium polyacrylate would it take to absorb the worlds oceans?

I’m thinking once gathered a ransom of up to 1 million dollars could be asked for not to go ahead with said fiendish scheme.

Asking for a friend obviously.

Pics like this below put me off. I wanted full coverage down to BB as I use my rigid for off road commuting so didn’t want to compromise. Also rattle free was a main priority as I then use it on singletrack as well. SKS although beefier than the blummels are still plastic with thin stays. I’m only assuming but I didn’t think they would fit my requirements.

Yeah the pletscher guards are silly expensive but I won’t ever need to buy another set. I think the rest of the bike will die before these things do 😂

I’ll preach about these again any day. Still rattle free after plenty of abuse. They are a bit weighty though.

I didn’t like the lack of full coverage on the SKS 75’s

Finally,rattle free full mudguards. Pletscher Aluminium Fenders R80