Rear clearance comement seems harsh.

It’s clearly not a bike you’d put minions on.

@baelgianwaffle1

By top hat I meant those things the axle is resting on in the pictures. I guess they are shields rather than seals.

In my experience they usually separate from the cones. Balance them between a vice, resting on the shields and you can tap the cone out. The shields then fit over your new cones.

I may be wrong though and they are one piece but I’ve done this many times with axles that look like that.

Are you wanting to replace it? Cones pitted?

If so just buy a weldtite equivalent and put those top hat seals on the new cones with correct amount of spacers to match old axles dimensions. …

In my experience race matrix pads do not like extended runs like you get at the golfie and alps etc where the brake temperatures get high…

I found they were good on local shorter stuff but faded very badly when hot leaving a black residue on the disc as well.

Get OEM pads and I bet your problem goes.

Resin front, sintered rear for me. ..

Quick bite of the resin on front for your main stopping power then the long lasting sintered on rear as that’s the brake you drag.

Resin lasts ages on the front I find. .

If your needing pliers just to remove valve nut your putting it on too tight in the first place I’d say.

Don’t use them to tighten it as well.

When installing a valve just push down (hard) on it from the rim bed with your thumb and tighten the nut as best you can by hand. By pushing down on it you get a few more turns on the nut which seems to do the the job.

Doing this I’ve never had valve leaks and never had problems removing them when a tube was needed.

I do this on customer wheels as well and never had one back due to problems…

Woohoo.. I’ve won the internets today…

Glad it worked out for you @a11y

I’ve seen some awful wheels on brand new bikes, especially cheaper ones. Spoke tensions all over the place. It’ll look ok but will cause constant problems.

The wtb i25/vitus build you’ve mentioned isn’t an expensive wheel build.

I’m guessing the shop have discovered your wheels is bit rubbish. Yes it’s only one spoke to you but they will be wanting to do a proper job but can’t as the tensions are mismatched so they are wanting to start again with it

You could just put a spoke in and hope for the best but I’d put money on constant spoke breakages.

If they did this you’d most likely be back next week with another snapped spoke expecting them to fix it.

I very much doubt they are trying to con you.

I’m with Mashr…

Find a bike shop with the kit to face the mounts.

Sounds like you’ve tried everything else.

This cured a squealing brake I had once after trying everything you have as well.

A friend had this on his am9 from new.

As above some bits of rubber/tape did help but it ultimately went away when rockshox replaced his shock under warranty when it went in for service.

So the knock could be internal as well maybe.

I somehow spent nearly £200 on fuel last month. Don’t use the van for commuting but had a couple of events if signed up for.

Making an effort this month to keep it more local.

Friend of mine struggled with this I occasionally would as well.

He found that the pads would become clogged with dead skin and knee smeg I guess! Washing alone didn’t remove it.

A quick scrub with a hard bristle brush when dry and before washing loosens this up. It’s surprising how much can come out.

No go I’m afraid.

The organiser has had too much on this year to have the time or motivation to sort it.

Fingers crossed for next year.

I’ve ordered one after getting bored waiting for a Spur 😀

Popped down the other week for a look and was very impressed with the bike and the time the owner took to tell me everything I wanted to know. All made in house. Moulds and all.

The yellow one looks nicer in the flesh. It has a pearlescent finish that doesn’t show in the pictures but you can have what ever colour you want.

@cappuccino34

Recently had this exact problem with a customers bike.

Mech was ultimately sitting too far drive side. Ran out of micro adjust. Couldn’t get shifting correct. ( Worked fine on another bike)

Just had to notch this up to frame alignment issue/hanger geometry

Had to give up in the end. Was just flogging a dead horse.

Are you in the UK?

Quick bit of googling find these

https://www.mbcycles.co.uk/Lapierre-Spicy,Zesty-Rear-End-Bushing-kit

The seat post man doesn’t guarantee removal of a stuck post. So you could of been needing a frame at some point anyway.

He claims 100% customer satisfaction (which I don’t doubt) but he asks you get in touch first so he can assess the job.

If your turned down, you won’t be a customer so you won’t go on his stats…

Ironically his two last posts on Facebook are knackered carbon frames. One is cracked from the oxidisation swelling the frame the other from spinning it in a vice before he got it probablly….

I do sympathise with you and the shop however. Shit situation. I hope you can both work something out.

Pull the seal out on the side that will take the grease.👍

I think I will have to start looking for somewhere new

Honestly. Just do this now.

You’ll put yourself through hell trying to prove your point and it’s just not worth it. Life’s too short.

I talk from experience. I look back at that time now and chuckle that I took it so personally.

I’ll answer your title question.

It’s a Rohloff setup….

Hey. You’ve already got one. Bonus.

Use both..

I have organic front and sintered rear.

Organic gives the quick bite on the front and sintered deals with the dragging on the rear.

For context last time I was in France it was a year or so later when I then changed out the front organic. I’d gone through a few sets off rears in that time. Bike is used multiple times a week

Any ebike problems we see at work are pretty much all MTB related. They just get abused, filthy and wet.

We never see the trekking/hybrids back with motor/battery problems. Yamaha or Bosch. Pick the one you like the colour of best, use it as intended and you’ll have no bother.

Exploded diagrams for Lapierres here.

https://raleigh.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/sections/360001155777-2020

Fazua seems good on road bikes.

Not on mtb though I’m afraid.

The bikes have a tendency to shut themselves off on rough descents and BB units seem to die easily.

A new fazua version has been launched and I’m hoping it sorts the problems as the e-zesty was a good idea, ahead of its time really.

You might need to change the LNB on your dish if you had sky Q

I had to replace mine recently to get Freeview working on a sky dish.

Did it last week.

We park at Ravenstondale. Means you do the fairly nice XC ride round first to get warned up for the big climb. Quite a few gates to get through mind.

The big climb is mostly rideable.

The descent is as mentioned above though. Quite heavily rutted multi lines so you have to be cautious with your pedals. I think it’s had it’s day really.

The tack out the valley is then a bit lumpy! Doesn’t really flow and I was glad for the invention of dropper posts.

Still had a good day though. I do it once a year for something different.

Aeropress Go for me as well.

Again, ditch the plastic cup then it fits in my larger mug and I put the coffee in the plunger.

I already had a blind bearing puller set but then bought a kit from this guy for putting them back in. Comes with the correct size drifts for each frame.

Transition Bearing Tool Kits

Add in the extra drift sizes for your hub bearings etc and your sorted for any future bearing pressing on your bike..

Bearing Press for Bicycles (drifts only)

Edit…. They have definitely gone up in price though. I didn’t pay that!

I already had a blind bearing puller set but then bought a kit from this guy for putting them back in. Comes with the correct size drifts for each frame.

Transition Bearing Tool Kits

Add in the extra drift sizes for your hub bearings etc and your sorted for any future bearing pressing on your bike..

Bearing Press for Bicycles (drifts only)

Whenever we’ve tried to mix chainring speeds etc at work (due to the current lack of stock) it usually ends up in a frustrating effort trying to get the front shifting working well.

It may work fine though.. your gamble to take

For that money your better off buying a more mainstream brand that uses Yamaha or Bosch motors…
Better chance of ongoing support if anything went wrong.

You can flip the fidlock mount on the frame then do the same with the mount on the bottle.
A friend did this and gave him that bit more space to clear the shock. Not much I don’t think bit it worked for him

I’m a Shimano brake fan but as above my most recent set did have a bit of swarf pop out during installation bleed…..

Haven’t read all of this properly but I’ve got an Alpkit koala and use a Wolftooth Valais.

I’ve got one of the rubberised bag straps in the highest position to match the Valais so I get as much drop as possible. Been fine for me. Bag is close to the post but doesn’t touch.

Valais is an expensive bit of plastic though!

Same here. Nice grips. Comfortable on the rigid bike bashing the miles out but personally thought they got in the way on my trail bike..

I’ve also got the Soma Moon Risers (uncut) and a Stooge bar cut to 780 if your interested.

I’ve never bothered selling them as last time I tried posting a bar to someone the postage cost more than the bars! Will probably still be the same though…

You’ve just got to try them to find the sweet spot that’s comfortable for you.

I started on Stooge Moto really liked them but not quite right. 17°

Went further with Soma Dream Risers. Too much sweep. 20° something

Ended up on some ergotec 12°. Perfect…

One thing though. If you’ve been fine on your current setup before your aches might not be the bikes fault.
I had a similar problem. Blamed the bike. Spent a fortune on bits trying to fix it. Finally went to a physio who found a non bike reason.. sorted that and was then fine..

This raises some interesting points.

If a customer is keen and awaiting a voucher we reserve the bike for them then keep an eye how long it sits there.
Most do come back for them but occasionally we’ll never hear from them again.

If the shop in question doesn’t have a dedicated admin person like we do to keep an eye on these things they could also of simply forgot.

They may also of just sold it for cash at full asking price instead of you, as cyclescheme take 10% from the retailer.

Normally bike to work schemes have been good for shops as they’ve driven up trade but at the moment we wince a bit when selling via these as we know it would sell it for full price regardless.
Obviously we don’t turn people away and still happily accept the vouchers though.

I just bought a new c17. Noticed that you no longer need to log them for the warranty which I’m sure was 10 years when I bought one a couple of years back. You now only get 2 years..

So does this school or arthodox jews as a whole have a fixation with this hill?

Those could of been just seen school trip but I did wonder the same as you see a lot of Orthodox Jews in the Alps in the summer.

A quick Google suggests it’s something to do with getting closer to God I think.