coatesy
Free Member
Doubt it’s a Trek specific issue, but they were our first experiences of UDH systems, and we’ve been making sure they’re tight ever since.

Seems like a design oversight then as this is from the SRAM page about the UDH:

“It protects your derailleur against chain jams by pivoting back and out of the way, and slips slightly when encountering impacts”

I guess/hope that making sure it is torque’d to spec limits or slows this backwards pivot motion…

We were so close to being rid of the million different mech hangers there as well…. 😂

coatesy
Free Member
Yep, that’s why we’re under strict instructions in our workshop,to make sure they’re tight, and why I mentioned making sure the axle is greased. It can be a costly failure if you don’t

I’d this a trek specific problem or all UDH equipped bikes?

Here’s a Morresy lyric I find very appropriate for modern life and may be part of your problem.

“Stop watching the news
Because the news contrives to frighten you
To make you feel small and alone
To make you feel that your mind isn’t your own”

You may be able to get your shock rebuilt to the correct length for your new bike instead of buying a new one.

I think the question you should be asking is:

“How do I get rid of all these tyres I don’t really need?” 😂

I’ll be hopefully doing:

Welsh Ride Thing

Jennride

Maybe a week on the south coast sleeping out then meet up with friends in Wales to get rad on the big bike

Random weekends ditch kipping in the Lakes, North Yorkshire Moors, Northumberland and Scotland.

Boltby Bash

Maybe Ard’moors

A week or so in France on the big bike if I can

And other stuff as I think of it 👍

Ok so if I went for a 29er mtb shouldn’t it have a suspension fork?

A big front tyre (2.6 and above) is all you need. The lower pressure you can run it at gives you a surprising amount of comfort. I ride the descents I come across as if I’m on a much more “capable bike” (hence the 4 pot brakes as well) and it rarely feels out of its depth. The bike actually handles the rougher stuff much better when loaded up as the extra weight stops it feeling skittish.

I find a rigid bikes only downfall is repeated braking type bumps and very chunky constant rocky terrain. Hitt that stuff quick and you’ll be convinced your about to snap the fork off 😂. You’ve just got to chill out a bit on those and pick your line Anything else is fair game. I think you’d be surprised.

I’m very much in the MTB bike packing camp though. I choose routes to have the best descents in as I would a normal ride so I’m biased with my advice towards that.

Never looked or tried but could you fit 4 pot calipers to drop levers?

I’ve got a rigid MTB for bike packing duties. Previous one had 180 rotors and two pots. A few times I ended up with no brakes at the bottom of big fast descents. New bike has 180 rotors but 4 pots. They’ve never let me down yet. So in my case the caliper size was more important than the rotor.

Ahhh. Just realised. You’ll likely be flat mount. So adaptors would be needed if you could make it work.

In fact. Just sack off the drop bar bike idea. Get a rigid MTB! Whenever I’ve seen people on drop bar bikes at bike packing events they always look like they’ve brought a knife to a gun fight 😂

Can’t wait for the next half term holiday so I can chuck it in the car and explore the country lanes….

can you not pedal it there and avoid using the car?

Come on. You can do better than that Rocketdog, this is STW.. What about…

Can you not remove the polluting car and resource intensive bicycle from your life and weave your own from reeds reclaimed from an organic focused local farming commune?

It would be funny if you had enough cash to go on one of these holidays on the cheapest bikes you could, talk to everyone in your thickest regional accent, blatantly steal as much as you can from the posh hotels then first to finish each day on the rides!

Just to but in.

I can recommend these folk for stainless chainrings if you need them. I use them and they are fairly local to me.

https://bikepunx.com/

kentishman
Free Member
Maybe I will have to check that.
Do you mean there is a tube from the bottom bracket inside for the cable. I will take the cover off the bb and see at the weekend.
Getting the cable through the frame with a tube was easy. it was just this very last bit that got me stumped.

You should of started with removing the BB cover if it’s got one.

My money is on a tube being in there running up to the back of the cable stop. 👍

Yeah. Can confirm all’s good

I ordered some bars last weekend. Turned up yesterday with a royal mail label on so the above comment about the place in the UK seems to fit..

Downside is… They sent the wrong bars!

I’m convinced at some point in the future visiting aliens will find the human race extinct, buried, under piles of 3D printed tat!

My experience of wrist pain is that the grips aren’t the primary issue. Bar sweep is more important. Getting more back sweep and the right width helped me considerably.

I’ll second this especially on a rigid.

I settled on 12° after try a few

I don’t know… aren’t the kits £90 ish on average? So the shop are charging £100 for labour. That can’t be more than 2 hours workshop time, surely?

I assumed that was just for fitting. My bad if so.

If I owned a shop I’d quote that for fitting only and if it got done quicker then I’d reduced the price obviously. Time is money

After just finishing an invisiframe on my new bike where I had to cut the shapes(to the same standard as a pre-cut kit) as there wasn’t one available for my size frame. I now know what good value the pre-cut ones are!

It was easy a full days work….

The pre-cut kits are still time consuming to do well, I’ve done plenty of them, hence the charge from your LBS. Their being realistic instead of pretending it’ll take an hour or two like some would have you believe, especially on multi angled full suss frames.

I did a Haibike once. It was torture getting the pieces to stick due to the frame shape🤣

It’s not hard to put the kits on though. As others have said just take your time and don’t expect to be riding that day!

Do you value your time or your money the most? That’s the question.

I’ve tried a few different things over the past few years as I wondered the same thing about only being into biking…

I’ll save you the bother…

Turns out everything else is boring. We apparently have picked the best hobby ever..

https://velosta.co.uk/

It looks like a mid drive because that’s where they’ve hidden the battery.

Not a terrible idea if using a hub motor I suppose.. keeps the weight low down.

It’s got a hub motor and mid drive in the pictures but only mentions the hub motor in the description!

Remember. You get what you pay for…

I got a Dualit 75015 earlier in the year.

Metal burrs and seems to do the job..

I’m no pro so can’t give you anymore than that!

Just some general advice and I guess this depends on if you can afford it but twice now when I’ve changed careers I’ve worked part time somewhere then volunteered at a place doing what I’m wanting to get into…

Experience and enthusiasm trumps paper qualifications I’d say.

e.g Before I got into IT support I asked a local college if I could shadow their staff to learn the trade. Did this for awhile plus some self study and eventually got accepted for a support job elsewhere.

Here’s a something different

Some of last night’s veg with cheap packet noodles or cous cous and tinned fish.

You get one of your five a day and maintain a glossy coat thanks to the fish oil!

The Bear Bones Welsh Ride Thing (a relaxed event over a weekend) has a “lonely hearts” group which is for people new to bike packing.

A couple of more experienced riders lead a group of newbies. Sounds exactly what your after.

Have a look at the forum and get entered for next year when entries go live. It’ll go up on here when they do:

https://www.bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/product-category/bear-bones-bikepacking-events/

Here’s part one of a video taken by one of the leaders of this year’s event.

You could also just do what I did… Pick an event or random weekend and just go for it.. you only learn by giving it a go.

I can see exactly what your missing but I’m not telling. It’s build critical as well..

Oh boy are you gonna kick yourself come build day!

I couldn’t resist and ordered one.

I’m hoping to have it by the weekend/early next week so watch this space!

This has had me thoroughly entertained for an hour reading this. Hilarious..

I can add a childhood trip to a French campsite where we were pitched next to a Dutch family who’d brought their inflatable speed boat thing with them. They were our best friends that week. The dad was also a driver of one of the few Porsche police interceptor cars the Dutch had at the time… I wanted him to adopt me!

That holiday my sister was also chased around by a suitor who she labelled “Pepe Le Pew” due to his constant irritating attempts to attract her attention…

Happy days…

This video ( https://youtu.be/AQbmpecxS2w ) is a good explanation of why prices are so high and @onzadog sums it up perfectly in one world…

Greed…

You could try http://www.spanner.org.uk/

Very pleased with the frame and fork I got from him

There’s no contours on Garmin’s maps. They are very basic

For that you need to buy and install the talkytoaster maps.

I did after seeing a thread on here about them. They are very detailed and only about £14…

@v7fmp

Sent you a message 👍

We sell these at work. They are very popular and to be honest good bikes. As mentioned they’ve got all the kit you need.

We find that the hybrid style ebikes rarely, if ever, come back for warranty work. They just don’t take the abuse MTB’s do.

They are either Bosch or Yamaha. Both can be turned around in about a week or so if you ever do have problems with the electrics.

I read somewhere that ultimately all’s your doing is pressurising the system so your forcing the air back into the fluid. Pulling a vacuum on the syringe has the opposite effect. So that does make sense

Your just delaying the inevitable bleed that is needed so not worth doing if you ask me.

Although you should add:

Cable junction box, rear sprocket and axle nuts, specific to your drop outs, to your list above 👍

Don’t feel too bad about that. My first time converting an ebike to Di2 Alfine, for a customer, had me a bit baffled at first.

There’s no real specific ” you need exactly these bits” instructions so I ended up calling Madison (UK Shimano distributor) for advice.

A shop with experience of them is a good idea or they can just do what I did and ask for help.

Once you have the right parts though it’s all just plug and play.

The reckon race I’ve got is the 2.4WT, again on 30mm rims. It’s absolutely fine. Don’t see why it wouldn’t work on 29mm.

Both my reckons are 3c maxxterra 👍

Working in a bike shop I’d say no they aren’t getting too complicated really.

What is getting silly though is manufactures pushing internal cabling to the masses. Bar and headset cabling on road bikes can turn what should be at most a half hour job into hours and some MTBs are starting to come with them now as well! Absolutely no need.

Buy that aero road bike if you want but be prepared for a big bill if it needs a brake hose re-routing or a cable outer changing!

It’s a similar thing on ebikes as the routing can be complicated by the motor but even we do very little with the actual electrical side of then so that’s a non issue at the moment.

Oh and varying competing pointless standards driven by marketing and profit motives. The amount of tooling needed is getting silly..

I used to. Ran a barzo on 30mm rim and it didn’t quite look as big as it should.

Was happy with it and a mezcal on the rear for a couple of years.

Have since swapped to a 2.6 reckon front and reckon race rear. Comes up bigger than the barzo and grip is massively improved on the front with minimal added rolling resistance. The race on the back has slightly more rolling resistance than a mezcal though. Ideally I’d run reckon front mezcal rear.

Saw an interesting video where savvy thieves can easily block wi-fi cameras with a very cheap bit kit if it bothers you

I found they degraded over time and gave up on them in the end.

Try the specialised tubeless strips instead. Fraction of the price and I’ve had no bother