What Bear said!

The most common shower leak i see as a bathroom installer is the shower screen/panel being installed before the tray has been sealed all the way along to the end of the tray.

Also check that the enclosure has not been sealed inside. Shower enclosure’s should always be sealed from outside so any water getting in to the frame should drain to the inside.

Also, those tiles have been installed incorrectly, shouldn’t be any spacers used with them, the spacer lines are obvious and should be closed up so the grout lines are the same thickness as the lines on the tiles themselves.

You were saying supremebean……..

Yes, i was saying that’s the wrong way to hold a fish like that.

What’s your point?

Did you not notice all the other photos carrying the fish correctly?

ETA: Ok you found 1 photo on google images of a guy holding a spurdog incorrectly, well done.

Know all about holding sharks…this one was a wriggler and that was a grab just before it got chucked back as it didn’t want to pose!

I don’t think you do! Go and google Tope or Spurdog photo’s, you won’t see a single person holding a fish like that. Main part of the body should be supported and horizontal. I have seen many spurdog floaters on my fishing trips to Skye from folk doing just what you did, quick photo holding the fish upside down, then ‘chucked'(another thing i can’t abide) back in to the sea to die. Every Tope, Spurdog, Smoothie etc i have ever caught has been a ‘wriggler’, as you put it. There is still a right way and wrong way to hold it whether it is wriggling or not. That photo is the wrong way, end of.

Good way to kill or damage shark species that, holding it upside down by the tail.

These type of fish need to be supported under the belly due to no ribcage.

My friend and i met Terry Butcher and his wife walking up the Red trail at Abriachan as we were coming down.

I did similar on an old bike i used to have, i just drilled the other side of the bolt through the axle and once the drill bit started to grip it just spun it out with ease.

That will probably sell! I sold a £50 Tiso voucher on ebay for £54 + postage about 10 years ago. Started it at 99p. Got good feedback from the buyer too! :-)

Anyone else getting a jumpy screen when you hover your mouse over the second pic in the OP’s first ebay link??

You would probably need one of these…

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wc-con8v-90-pan-connector-with-vent-white-110mm/57535

And one of these…

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-anti-syphon-bottle-trap-white-32mm/37314

Run the pipe from the pan bend with a 90 deg bend straight off the top and round wall with a slight rise all the way to the basin, then 90 degree bend upwards at the basin centre and in to the trap.

Or, if you have space, you could build a bulkhead behind the wc to hide pipes. This would allow the basin waste to be closer to the floor if required as you could re-pipe it without the pan connector linked to above.

Anyone cleaned the Lactic Ladder part of the climb?

Yes! I can do it most times depending on energy levels. You really have to pedal hard whilst lifting front and rear of the bike up and over some of the rocks by lots of body weight shifting. Brakes get used a bit too!

Yes some vinyls have a spongy layer on the underside which sucks up water. Seen it plenty times, it’s part of my job. The tray leaking would have allowed water ingress between the vinyl and floor.

Vinyl is water resistant, not waterproof.

Vinyl already lifted, by me, resulting in a 2 inch tear at the edge. Any chance I could claim that was caused by the damp or is that one on me?

No harm in trying to claim but i doubt you will get any joy.

Hide it and tell them you had to throw it out because it was soaked. :wink:

Re: drying, should I expect them to lift floorboards or open up the ceiling, can’t imagine damp plasterboard would dry very well in an enclosed void…

Do I need to worry about mould?

No, i probably wouldn’t bother lifting the boards, it will dry out quite quickly once shower is sorted. It really will be a small amount of water that has got through if the wet patches are small.

It will dry out before mold will form.

ETA: The vinyl should be lifted though to aid drying.

Usual sh*te from housebuilders!

It will probably be the same problem i see in most cases, no sealant behind the shower screen profile. The tray gets fitted by plumber, tiler or joiner install tiles or wetwall, plumber then fits screen and silicone seals the tray up to the frame, leaving the bit of tray behind the profile with no silicone. That’s where it leaks from. Tray should always be silicone sealed the full length before frame/screen is installed.
Then they will try to fix it by squeezing a tube of silicone on the inside of the shower frame, which will just make it worse. The frame should be silicone sealed on the outside so any water that gets into the frame drains back into the tray.

I wouldn’t think there will be lasting damage after 3 months and a small leak, will probably just need a bit of drying and some touching up when fully dried.

Yes you would need two nest thermostats and an extra motorized valve plumbed and wired in to the existing system.

These extensions are best, non adjustable so no moving parts. Can be cut to length easily.

https://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/radiators/valves-and-accessories/valve-extensions

Won’t work with flange type lockshield valves though.

Anybody know the track that starts at approx 1.08.00 on that bbc link?

Also from that mix:

Brings back memories and led me to:

Awesome stuff!

Drill hole deeper and double up on the plugs with a longer screw.

7mm hole, 100 mm deep, tap first plug in with screw, then second. Use 80mm size 10 screw.

ETA: Using Brown plugs, you may have to cut the end to get the first one in depending on make.

The threads on the tails of the new valves you have are the same size as the threads on that tail currently going in to your rad. Its just the valve side thats different. So no you wont need a bush.

ETA: you will just need a big key to get the current tail out.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/radiator-spanner/11467

May be the thermostat if it works on a cold wash.

Should be 7.6mm spline dia, with 20 splines. I’m sure you can buy spline adaptors, probably be the same price as a new set of taps though.

I would have just re-greased the original gland and stuck a new washer in.

The ‘c’ clip on the bottom of the spline just pulls off, then push the spline through the body, twist the jumper off the spline shaft, clean up inside, pack with silicon grease including covering the o rings below the spline, fit new washer. Re-fit, job done. Should work like a new tap.

IAAP

Who pays for the 15% restocking charge at most suppliers if a customer pulls out after bathroom suite has been ordered and arrived at suppliers?

I install bathrooms up to £12-14k in suite and tiles etc alone, not including installation materials and labour. 15% of 14k is quite a loss to a one man band like me.

Customers can either buy their suite from my suppliers direct or they can buy through me with a 10% discount, either way, suite gets paid upfront. Or upon delivery to site if agreed beforehand.

Tradesmen will have a monthly limit on their account too, which may get stretched a bit at this time of year. Shouldn’t be a problem with more well established companies, but most of the bigger companies i know (and used to work for) always ask for deposit.

Prob best just to replace the waste connection to the sink. Easy enough to do with a screwdriver or socket for the top and a pair of grips for the trap nut.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/opella-strainer-waste-with-overflow/85413

Or some thing similar.

I will be heading to my parents in Aberdeen for a week of codding at christmas. :D
Got a freezer full of mackeral and 50 pulley rigs made up. Could do with some black lug though, cant seem to find them up this way. Are rag good for winter bait? Usually use them for wrasse and pollock in summer. Not tried them in winter, never heard of anyone using them up this way either. Same with peelers, cod no really interested in them up here. Mackies, squid, mussels and lug mainly.

Not too sure about that. Cod are very sparse on the west coast. I have only caught kelpies up west. I think it would be a long wait but i’m sure there are very big cod up there, just not in any numbers. East coast is best for winter cod, from south Aberdeen down to Arbroath. Rough sea with a chocolate brown colour to the water and you will catch big bags most marks. I can usually take 10-15 cod home from a 2 hour sesh there if conditions are right. 3-9lb range in weight.

Yes, the mussels and lug from KLH are huge, was working/fishing there last year.
Fishing is poor on the Black Isle, Cromarty pier for mackies and sandeel in late summer, most beaches have flatties and small species.That’s about it. I hit Skye for summer fishing and Aberdeen in winter for cod. Both normally a fish a chuck, very productive.

Black Isle, north of Inverness. Local beach/ harbour has plenty of bait, rag(all kinds), blow lug, peelers, mussels, cockles and spooties all within 100m of carpark.

That’s about average length of rag from my local bait collection point. Had them up to 3ft before and seen a mobile pic of one at approx 5ft long. The peelers and blow lug in that area are huge too.

Does it make a loud siren type noise when accelerating? If not can you hear the turbo spool up (whistle)?

Loose/split boost pipe or sticking turbo actuator would be my first port of call, then check small vacuum pipes are all connected. Check both pipes either side of the intercooler for metal swarf. If the boost impellor is wrecked it will be in bits all through the pipes, engine flush needed as MartynS said.

Edit: could also be sticking turbo vanes.

from what i can make of the trailer…it looks like theres going to be a rather big scuffle at winterfell….i’m hoping ramsay get introduced to some valyrian steel…ideally id like him to live a bit longer to see what else he gets up to but i reckon he’s going to get it next week

The Battle of The Bastards!! Ep 8 or 9 i reckon.

Tank driver must replace filler cap if present and working. Go to the oil company.

Tank will have to have water drained out, easy enough with a pump and rigid tube.

Oil pump in boiler and possibly Rayburn (if pressure jet burner) Will need to be renewed and re-set to boiler spec. It may work for a short while without renewal but the bearings will be rusty and will start squeeling.

Yeah thermostat has packed in, causing the water to over expand and drip then thermal cut-out kicks in. Simple 5 minute job if engineer has a stat in his van.

Hi Jolsa, what make and model of cylinder? how is the water heated? boiler or immersion?

Hi Beamers, Yeah no probs fire away!

Hi Beamers, i have installed a fair number of these in the highlands.

They are made to order to suit the situation in which they are to be installed so a photo of yours would help so i can tell you your options.

The hot water is usually mains fed through a coil and then through a mixer valve at the other end to reduce the temp. The rayburn heats the main bulk of water directly. The spare coil can be used for a sealed system boiler although it might not be a coil, unless you have the drawing which usually comes with it to confirm?

Always better to have some form of timed automatically ignited heatsource as the tank should sit at a constant 75-80 degrees c.

If it is a combi and there is plenty hot water at all other taps, I’d be looking at the shower. No need to replace an 8 yr old boiler, I would have trv’s fitted though.

They aint suitable for plasterboard alone, but a tiled wall they are fine, and with a bead of silicon it aint going nowhere, provided the tiles have been bonded to p/board correctly.

Lots of you diy’ers are always looking to make life so difficult for yourselves. :-)

Also, always silicon seal the outside of shower screens, never seal inside. :wink:
A common diy problem that causes more than it fixes.

I use fixings that come with the screen, usually 6mm red plugs and stainless screws. A thin bead of silicon down the back of the metal profile going round both sides of the screw hole’s top to bottom, Screw up and clean off excess silicon, job done. Following the instructions for the actual screen is usually the best way, and fixings included are always sufficient. Fitted hundreds of screen’s this way.

hmmm, i have been leaving my shoes out in the sun to dry but i was sure the neighbours cat has been spraying in them so stopped that!

Does everybody’s riding shoes smell of cat pish?

The other swing arm could be carbon? My 2010 meta 55 has al front carbon rear.

button kit can be bought for around 40 quid, hopefully you haven’t scratched the insides with your allen key!