There shouldn’t be any need to cap the filling loop off- the mains side has a valve and the heating side should have a double check valve.
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Incorrect, the check valves can fail quite easily, as can the cold valve. I always cap off both. They don’t supply the caps with the loop kit for no reason.</p>

Looks like the valves either end of the filling loop are not closed off properly? Also, there is caps attached to the valves for removing the hose and blanking the valves off.

Yeah, but in practice this isn’t always useful. Can be, but you’ve got to be pretty brave to diagnose based on colour

Isn’t always useful? But it can be?

It’s not a diagnosis, it’s a starting point towards diagnosis.

Anyway, as molgrips has mentioned, i’d be checking the boost pipes. Get someone to rev the car in neutral and check all the joints. Should be pretty obvious if a connection has gone. The vag boost pipes have a little lug that the circlip locks on to and they can wear away over time, particularly the pipes going in to the intercooler.

Also, does it smoke immediately on a cold start up? Or does it build up with heat?

If the smoke is grey/black as you say, it’s more than likely a fueling issue. IIRC I had the same issue when I changed the turbo on my VW caddy 1.9tdi in 2015. I had mixed up two of the vacuum hoses when putting it all back together.

My turbo went like a screaming banshee two days after I hit a massive pothole. Two of the turbo impellers (boost, intercooler side) had split, but didn’t actually break. I would want to know what wrecked your turbo in the first place. They don’t just blow for no reason and it could indicate another problem if a bit of debris has actually ended up hitting the impellers.

The smoke should be blue if it is oil burning.

That only works on de-catted imprezas.

What colour is the smoke?

That looks like water damage to the render. Possibly from where the soil stack penetrates the roof or maybe the gutters. I reckon there would have been cast iron soil stack and gutters on that house at some point which probably failed, as they do. The rough looking render is classic sign of water damage.

spooky_b329
Full Member
The nrv should be on the tap end of the hose, not the attachment

It’s not a non-return valve… That would be fitted to your plumbing in the house.

The aqua stop is for the action end of the hose, so you can change weapons without getting wet.

I’m not talking about aqua stop. I’m talking about the non return valve fitting which should be fitted to the tap if the tap does not have one internally. Hozelock do a nrv for bib taps which don’t have an internal nrv. OP didn’t state weather he had an aqua stop fitted, hence my comment. I was assuming he had the hose on the wrong way round. The older hozelock nrv looked the same as the standard fitting so it was easy to fit them the wrong way round when not paying attention. IIRC the older nrv had a red nut thread as opposed the grey standard fitting.

I think the Travelodge at Fairways accept dogs, prob be somewhere in the region of £700-£900 for 7 days i would think though.

The nrv should be on the tap end of the hose, not the attachment.

The Valve on the tank is the Temperature/Pressure relief valve (TPR).
The other valve is just a pressure relief valve (PRV) for the cold water inlet.
The lower (PRV) valve on sharkbaits second pic is the round black knob just above the circled valve lever. It’s not a non return valve. The PRV’s main function is to protect the cylinder in the event of a failure of the pressure reducing valve. The TPR valve works in the same way but it also has a thermocouple built in for releasing water if the temperature gets too high.

OP, is there an expansion vessel external to the tank? Megaflo cylinders have a dip tube in the top of the cylinder which can be removed to give extra capacity by removing the expansion gap. If that has been done then there will be an external (white) vessel installed. This could explain why you still have water coming out. When you recharge a Megaflow normally, with dip tube installed, its the water level reaching the bottom of the dip tube (200mm -300mm approx iirc) that gurgles when recharging it. All that is happening is that you are creating an air space above the water in the tank which allows expansion of the water when it is heated up.

I have come across this problem a few times before. Quite often if a combi is fitted to existing hot water systems and the old hot pipes are 22mm or sometimes 28mm with long runs, this is what happens. The 15mm hot from the combi has to push hot water through the cold water in the bigger pipes and it doesn’t push all the cold water to the tap like you’d think it would, it just mixes in the pipe. Upgrade all hot pipes to 15mm and I guarantee it will work perfectly.

Try some talcum powder in the joints of the flooring. I did it on the stairs of my old house, worked a treat for a good few years.

Edit: if it’s the boards underneath there’s not a lot you can do other than lift the flooring.

So, a young girl in Philadelphia has died from this tik tok ‘Blackout challenge’, and it seems that tik tok were pushing this in their algorithms. I’m not going to post a link as I just read the headline on my Google news feed, but it was from the DM if anyone wants to look it up.

Bosch T101 AO cut perfect both sides, good for laminates etc. Excellent for tight radius circles also. They are shorter than usual blades but I have never had a problem with that.

I use one of these switches and a cheap 1500w titan from screwfix. Great for battery powered tools or if you don’t want to spend too much. I have the vacuum set up under my workbench with the hose clipped on to the side of the bench and the switch is clipped in to it’s bracket next to the hose. The switch can be unclipped easily for doing work away from the bench. I have the same again in my van for the big saws, routers etc. 2 vacuums, 2 switches were approx £110.

I just watched the aurora for about 10 mins in my back garden on the Black Isle. Absolutely amazing.
I knew it was going to be visible at 12am, so stayed up. Just wish i had gone for a drive over to the north facing side of the BI for a better view.

I don’t know about Iphone but I can use my Sony phone to tether via BT, WIFI or USB cable. USB sounds like your best bet unless you get a BT or WIFI dongle to plug in to your TV, assuming it has a USB port.

And is this a good idea?

No. There would be the possibility of raw sewage backing up and out that pipe.

I would investigate the reason for the blockage first because if it happens regularly then there may be a problem. Other than broken or poorly installed pipes, Most blockages are caused by people flushing things down the loo which shouldn’t be. Sanitary products, kitchen roll, cotton and ear buds, cleaning wipes and wet wipes, condoms etc. Even excessive amounts loo roll will block up easily.
Check that there is a vent pipe and that it isn’t blocked. I have seen a vent pipe in a loft with two flexis joined together going to the roof vent looking like a u bend trap and full of water. This created blockages down at the wc as air could not get in and the water level in the pan would rise when flushed due to the vacuum.

As far as restricting backflow up your wc: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-arb-1-anti-cross-flow-rodent-barrier-113mm/913HR?tc=BA1&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjc2QBhDgARIsAMc3SqQfLisjOQG2PVrJiOknLVLtwyW3GaS9qGeKzcILQWytbg0URDwq7VYaAtLZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

ARB1 replaces the pipe side rubber on the pan connector which connects your wc to the 110mm waste pipe.

As others have said, expansion vessel. Should be covered by warranty for a couple of years at least? I would Phone the original installer or call out ideal if you have warranty info.

The pressure in most (all?) boilers raises during heating. Mine goes from 1.5bar standing to 2.5 at working pressure.

Daffy, if your boiler is running that high at full temp then you have a problem. If cold pressure is 1.5 it shouldn’t go above 2.0 at full temp. Either your expansion vessel has packed in/needs re-charged or it is undersized for your system.

If you try to let some air out of the vessel schrader valve and water comes out, its packed in.

If it just needs re-charged, it should be pumped up with zero pressure on the heating circuit to the recommended charge pressure on the vessel label. Then re pressurise boiler to 1.5.

There is an internal filling loop. For that boiler it needs a tube thingy that pushes up through a hole on the bottom of the boiler on to the filling valve. Can’t remember what it’s called, it will be in the manual. The hole (or opening) is on the rhs of the underside of the boiler.

Have you have switched the cold water valve off on the boiler elbow? If nothing is coming out of the tap that’s what i would check first.

Second elbow from the right underneath the boiler.

I don’t think access rights says you can build trails anyway does it? Pretty sure it doesn’t.

See my first sentence in my post above. It has nothing to do with the Scottish access code, building an authorised trail on private land. Using it does. Anyone can use it. Nobody has to tell you where it is though.

The trail builders do have an agreement with the private landowner, and they take care of the costs,insurances etc, as well as the maintenance. They have also worked hard in keeping the trails off Strava, YT and TF, which i’m sure is an ongoing job for them.

One of the stipulations of the agreement is that they don’t get advertised and that it doesn’t become a destination. There is very little space to park before becoming a nuisance. There is space for 3 vehicles which usually get taken early by other forest users. Any other vehicles will be parked on the road which can become a problem at times. There is houses and flats right next to the parking spaces, so their right to privacy and peace on a sunday morning would be ruined by a few vans full of bikers yapping and laughing outside whilst getting ready. Complaints to the council then landowner would ensue. There used to be more space to park, presumably the council or housebuilders have deliberately made it smaller for the above reason. I’d say Probably about 80-90% of the locals that i know ride there from home or get dropped off.

There is also the problem of trails being trashed shortly after they have appeared on the popular channels. I noticed the difference on one of our other local(ish) trails that MCTR had done a video of. They got hammered for the following 6 weeks and the builders couldn’t keep up with the maintenance. The ground is quite soft on these trails, they are not like a hardpacked trailcentre. They simply can’t take the traffic that a TC does.

Then there is the problem of trails being closed for maintenance and non locals ignoring the barriers and signs , making a new line around them because they have travelled 120 miles to ride the trail, and they are doing it no matter what. Admittedly, most travellers i meet on the trails are sound and avoid the closed trails but they have had a few fuds flying down the closed trail whilst working on it.

There are loads of trails around here that are not on the usual sources. All of them absolutely banging enduro/dh trails, and all legal with landowner permission/ agreements. Most of them have the same character as they are built by the same folk that built that trails on the video in the OP. I have a choice of 9 venues within 15 miles of my house (about 60 trails) 5 of which are not advertised anywhere. There are vids on YT of a few but there is no indication of where they are. Parking would be an issue on all these venues bar 2 of them.

I think some people just have to accept the local trails for local people train of thought (not mine),due to the various issues around them. If you find them, Nobody will stop you riding them, anyone can ride them. Just don’t expect the builders or locals to advertise them because you think you have a right to ride them due to access rights. Access rights don’t require trailbuilders and locals to disclose trails they have built.

Having said all that, i would happily show any forum members these trails.

As long as you don’t mind being blindfolded and bungled in to the back of my van, after you have sworn an oath of secrecy and left your mobile and gopro at home. Oh, and i’ll need your home and email addresses, just in case.🤣

If I hold it in 6th its fine, not rough or noisy it will stay in 6th with gentle throttle so hopefully just oil.

I had same problem last year with my vw in 5th gear (5sp box), had to hold it in on a journey until i got home. Fixed it by doing the cable adjustment reset.

Had a problem a couple of years ago with the same box when reversing. When selecting reverse my shifter wouldn’t go right in until i released the clutch, then It would engage with a clunk noise. Same fix as above.

Might just be the shifter cables need adjusting. There are plenty videos on YT showing how to do it.

It might be the case that the locked gates are to stop people going in with their campers and 4x4s with tents on the roof. I know this had become a bit of a problem last year, more than usual.

On Skye, a farmer friend of mine told me there were some camper folk who opened a gate and set up camp where they pleased in his field. When confronted by him they told him to check the access rules and that they can go where they want. He told them that they have until he finishes his supper to get out of his field or he locks the gate, and that there was no phone reception in the area so they won’t be able to phone for help. They had gone by the time he came back out.

I also know about a campervan that got stuck in a ford on a hydro track which took 2 hours to get out. Once the hydro workers freed the camper they had to reverse out 1km as the only turning place available was just past the ford.

The NDS has a bearing preload which probably just needs adjusting. You will need 2x 19mm spanners, at least one needs to be thin to get on to the preload nut but a normal one will do the outer ss locking nut. Adjusts just like cup n cone but you may need the 12mm allen key to stop the whole axle turning when trying to tighten up the ss locknut as that will just unscrew the preload. 3 hands needed, although i managed it with 2 after a lot of swearing🤣.

They are a bit fidgety to get right but simple enough once you have done it a few times.

ETA: Forgot, yes there are cartridge bearings in the hub. Remove both NDS nuts from the axle and pull the freehub and axle out from the freehub side. The 17mm nut on the freehub side is just for removing freehub from the axle and is left hand thread, no need to remove this nut unless changing the freehub.

Just loosen the screws out a bit and lift the front of the basin up, slide out the pedestal very gently, but not all the way out, so the basin can still rest on the pedestal while you work on the waste. The pedestal may be screwed down to the floor, remove the screws first if it is.
Waste only needs a little nip up after hand tightening. I think the reason the old waste snapped where it did was due to overtightening.

Seen this one loads of times!

You need to get a set of grips on to the cylindrical part above where it has broken and it should unscrew off. Then the top part should push up through the basin. If the whole assembly spins when trying to remove the flange you may need to hold the top part from above while unscrewing the flange off. You can jam something in the overflow slots from above to hold it better if it’s difficult to do by hand, ie a big flat screwdriver. If you can’t hold it tight enough to unscrew then you may have to hacksaw it off. Cut through the black seal above the flange with a hacksaw , and then keep going to get through the top part. It’s brass so should be easy enough once you get started.

Dunno about zebs, but my revs were as howsyourdad1 explains above. Washer was stuck in the nut recess. It’s black plastic so looks like it’s part of the nut when you take it off.

The chrome flange and tube are usually 2 separate parts, the flange is just pushed over the tube with an o ring holding it in place. The tube is threaded on to the valve body and will sometimes require a bit of rubber and a pair of grips or a proper rubber strap wrench. I can remove them by hand as that’s how they are normally fitted, but the do seize up a little bit with dirt etc.

Does it not screw out the other way? Ie turning the brass valve clockwise until it pop out the bottom of the chrome flange.

Edit:Just realised that it’s a deck tap valve, just unscrew the chrome bit off to get to the valve.

Yeah I read something recently along the same lines, wasn’t clear what wheel size on the article I read though.

What wheel size? I think it’s max 160mm for 29 and 170 for 27.5. I could be wrong though.

I have a 2019 zesty FIT in size large, not sure about sizing for you but I think the small comes with 27.5 wheels? That may just be the FIT models. What is the exact model you are thinking about? The zesty and spicy share the same frame, just different stroke shocks which are all the same i2i. Zesty comes in 140/150mm (57.5/60.0 stroke) , spicy 160/170mm (62.5/65.0 stroke) on 2019 versions. Not sure about newer models, they look the same but may have been tweaked. I think the 170mm 29er is 160mm at the rear as I don’t think 170mm goes in 29er mode unless there has been frame tweaks since my 19′ frame. 170 both ends works in mullet which is what the lapierre Pro riders seem to all be riding. There is not much info out there on newer lapierres, most of what I know came from looking at specs on shop sites and a couple of site reviews so I’m not 100 percent sure of the accuracy of the info I have gathered.

Winter 2021.2 has arrived 🙂

Yip, just checked, my van is covered.

I have mudhuggers on Lyrik and pike forks. I’ve just a few layers of self amalgamating tape to space them down so there’s no clash on full travel.

It’s the flange for the bolts on the RRP guard that give the main problem (for me) to the op’s question. My fork is 42mm offset so it may work with a larger offset but i’m not sure it’s worth trying to bodge some fixings as when i lined up and spaced it all out, the bolt holes were lining up with the bottom of the arch so i can’t see a way of fixing it securely from there.

I’ve got the same fork and only just realised this when I took out all the air after using it for a few months.

Not sure whether to just carry on it only hits a tiny bit before bottom out…

How did you fix the guard to the fork? I wouldn’t be worried too much if it’s ziptied, but may be a concern if it’s bolted on, especially a bodge like i was going to do.