I always used to ride with a backpack with everything for every eventuality I could think of.

One day, in a hurry I forgot to take the pack with me. Guess what? Nothing happened. No mechanical disasters. No walking for miles. No doomsday scenario. I also realised that riding without a backpack was much more comfortable and strangely liberating.

Later I worked out I could leave behind the pack and also stash stuff on the bike which would cover most likely mechanical disasters: repairing tubes/tyres; broken chain; broken mech hanger; gear cable replacement. Pockets serve for the few other items such as phone/keys/money. I could therefore have my cake and consume it exactly as I wish.

That reminds me, mmmmmm cake…

Have recently been going packless. Have tried to secrete as much stuff on the bike as possible.

I keep the following inside the handlebars:
– spare gear cable
– zip ties
– couple of quick links
– a section of chain (4 links),
– puncture repair patches
– Park emergency tyre boot.

All apart from the gear cable are taped to the zip ties in small zip lock bags so they pull out in one go from the end. Lock on grips make access easy. Surprising how much you can get in there.

– Spare gear hanger in zip lock bag taped under saddle (not visible).
– Small pump attached to bracket on bottle cage.
– Topeak Aero Wedge Micro saddle pack contains Lumenator battery pack and a spare tube (can’t squeeze any more stuff in and don’t want a larger saddle pack).

In the jersey rear pocket I keep keys, money and a phone. In the rear shorts pocket I keep a Topeak Hexus tool. Endura Singletrack shorts have well designed pockets so don’t feel the weight or movement of stuff in there when pedalling.

@bikeneil

What a waste of fruitcake!

Holy hand grenade: http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/TL-LD1100/

Two AA batteries power two independently switched light circuits consisting of 5 LEDs each. Batteries last ages and is really bright. Includes LEDs on the side which greatly increase side visibility.

Specialized Sonoma Gel 155 old type not current stock on sale as design has changed considerably.

This one, all in black: http://spindoctorcyclewerks.com/product/specialized-sonoma-gel-saddle-3061.htm

Excellent for all day rides with decent chamois as others have said. Suits me perfectly so I track down replacements (new old stock) on Ebay. I currently have two on bikes and two spares.

Try the ‘Lumenator’ from mtb batteries which is currently £105 inc p&p. Reliable light with decent Panasonic cells with protection circuit in waterproof battery pack and a decent UK charger, so won’t burn your house down. Used by plenty on here and supplied by a trusted UK vendor (who posts on here as ‘Smudge’) who had a reputation for standing by his products. I’ve been running one for over a year and it’s been faultless. It’s also received 4.5 out of 5 when reviewed in this month’s What Mountain Bike with a best for value rating if that’s important to you.

Link: http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/mountain-bike-lights/the-lumenator/

I used one of these types of square section vent kits which fits through a brick sized aperture and has a round fitting to the flexible hose: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Spares2go-Universal-Cooker-External-Kitchen/dp/B00QV5DYLA

You will require an adapter for larger 150mm hose: http://www.i-sells.co.uk/megaduct-220-straight-round-to-rectangular-adapter

I drilled around the mortar surrounding a brick with a standard percussion drill and long masonry bit, using bolster and standard chisels to assist and worked through to the other side. Carefully filled any gaps between square plastic duct and brickwork with some expanding foam, masking edges off with duct tape to control any foam expansion overflow. The foam when set also nicely seated the plastic duct pipe in the wall.

Thanks for the replies. That black stealth tape looks just the ticket for my helmet which is mostly black. What make are those ankle bands CFH?

As for home made Tron man, too much going on for me to fully take it in…

Had to replace shock bushings on a Fox RP23. Plenty of online advice that removal was easy using a couple of sockets and a vice or hammer. Persevered for about an hour getting increasingly violent until I decided to err on the side of caution and bought a shock bush removal tool for £6.50 from Ebay. Slid the bushings out out no problem in less than a minute.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Bush-Removal-Tool-DU-Bushes-for-Fox-Rockshox-Manitou-X-Fusion-etc-/121781078102?var=&hash=item1c5ab7c856:m:mxb-uOJjvZNMo1AdFrMDoSQ

‘..put bleach in an old squeezy trigger bottle and use that’

I tried bleach and some other off the shelf anti-mould formulations and they didn’t work. HG did the job.

I used HG recently. Really effective against black spot mould above the shower on ceiling of a windowless bathroom. I sprayed on a cloth and wiped it on. Mould magically disappears and from experience it doesn’t come back for about a year (this was a reapplication).

One word of warning though – it really stinks, like a supercharged bleach smell, and it gave me a sore throat for a while. Suggest you take precautions if using in an enclosed space.

Epic do a half decent one for £5.99: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/tools/brake-hose-cutter/

Done

Wiggle do a 1/4″, 2-24Nm one for £25:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set/

I went on 25 September soon after the Warehouse Sale had started as I was in the area for an airport drop off. Picked up a torque wrench for £10 and a HTII bottom bracket tool for £1, which I thought were okay bargains.

Worth a punt if it’s not too far out of your way. Plenty of stock on display. Couldn’t tell you about the Arkrose or the like though.

+1 for Kenda Small Block 8s. Also good wear rate and less prone to puncturing than Racing Ralphs (in my experience).

My experience has been that they’re fine in the rain – survived very wet winter days/evenings. Light unit appears to be well sealed and the batteries are in a close fitting rubbery neoprene pouch with nowhere for the water to get in.

I have a Lumenator from MTB batteries and it is a very good unit in terms of power and duration particlulary at £105. You get decent Panasonic battery pack and proper UK charger. Understand Smudge at MTB Batteries (who sometimes posts on here) stands behind his products too.

Light comes with luminous O-rings to fix to bars, but can also be attached to bar with a Hope universal bar mount (£7.99) for a more solid clip on fixing which I prefer: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-universal-handlebar-mount/rp-prod23533 (NB needs an additional M4 x 10mm screw/bolt if you go down this route)

+1 for Osram Nightbreakers. I’ve had no problems with them as straight replacements. Give off a very white light compared to yellowy halogens. Much better visibility on unlit roads.

Saloon does have a great shape:

Coming to this late in the day. jamesfts has it pretty much. Suggest middle bit needs doing.

Also interested in the vehicle in question…

Edit – Just seen mention of Alfa Giulia. Went from London to Sicily (and back!) in one on a family holiday as a kid in the early seventies. It was a beige Giulia Super 1600, same colour as this one:

1969 Alfa Romeo Giulia Super 1600 Biscione

Smallblock might fit the bill? It’s not actually a semislick, it’s a micro-knobbly but it rolls pretty damn well.

+1 for Kenda Small Block 8. Running these at the moment. Roll really well on tarmac and more than good enough for the occasional trail as the OP requires. Come in 29″ 2.1 size:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenda-Small-Mountain-Folding-29×2-1/dp/B0026LJXH2

Recently bought some Buzzys Slick Honey suspension grease in a 30ml sachet from an ebay seller – all you need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buzzys-Slick-Honey-Suspension-Fork-Grease-RockShox-Fox-X-Fusion-Mtb-Bike-Buzzys-/171901948062?var=470825171221&hash=item280627909e

@xcstu – I like what you’ve done there. Top job.

You could try a 5 minute mini bleed to purge the system of any trapped air at the piston/lever end, which is where any air might be lurking following hose shortening.

Procedure here: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/5-minute-shimano-mini-bleed/

This one from Wiggle that’s £30, 2-24nm range, and comes with a decent set of bits: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set/

I have been using a very similar looking one (but BBB branded) for a few years, building and maintaining 3 bikes and am very pleased with it.

Kenda Small Block 8 is a great tyre for the type of mixed surface riding you describe. Comes in 2.1 and 2.35 widths and is fast rolling and hard wearing. May not be the best for sloshing around in mud in deepest winter but otherwise work really well for me – am also a strictly wheels on the ground rider.

+1 for the Endura Mesh liners. Comfortable, reasonable cost, and don’t ride up. All you need really.

You could try cable rub protectors as used in pics here: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ribble-gran-fondo-frameset

A number of manufacturers make them e.g. Jagwire, SRAM, BBB

Nothing wrong with helitape imho – should blend in once applied correctly.

Ive had the Cyrus 3 through a separate power supply which sounded very good.

I’m currently running one of these set ups and like the sound quality. Not going to ‘blow the bloody doors off’ in terms of volume but decent quality sound. Playing Cyrus 7Q CD player through it as well as a Logitech Duet with separate DAC.

I’ve been wearing Endura padded lyrca boxers under my shorts and can vouch for them. They work particularly well for all dayers in the summer.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/endura-mesh-boxer-ss15/rp-prod59915?gs=1&gclid=CPLz6oHjucYCFUkUwwodrvAGWQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Iain1775, you are a good man, and thorough.

1st one is in the highway code, when entering side streets, or on zebra crossings, so its only a natural extension, don’t understand why it should be so suprising

2nd one, is also permitted within the highway code, to pass any vehicle doing less than 10mph (so tractors etc as well as cyclists)

Re 2 I don’t recall this one from the HC (once again you learn something). I always avoid crossing the double line until it breaks. Time for a HC brush up I think!

Re 1 – Should be made clearer if the rules of the road change within the park. It would be safer – even if it does seem like a natural extension to some.

He certainly did! :D

That highway code section is about a road into which you are turning and pedestrians have priority if they have started to cross.

The RP leaflet takes things further and says that you should let people cross if they are waiting. It goes beyond those that have started to cross already and is not limited to a road into which you are turning.

There is a difference.

EDIT – Beaten to it by aracer

Pedestrians have priority when crossing the road, whether there is a zebra crossing at that junction or not.

I didn’t know this either. I haven’t seen any signs about this when entering the park or within the park.

This spurred a search on Google and I came across ‘On the Road in Richmond Park’ produced by the Richmond Park Local Policing Team. It sets out the rules and guidance for park users, including motorists and cyclists: http://www.frp.org.uk/pdf/frp/44_On_the_Road_In_Richmond_Park_Website_version_040712.pdf

Among many things it says:
– Consideration for Pedestrians:
Pedestrians have priority, so let people cross if you see them waiting.

On the road [cyclists]:
– Ride no more than 2 abreast.
– Keep groups tight and to 8 riders or less.
– Warn of hazards with hand signals if possible. (Avoid shouting)

It also says that drivers (and cyclists) can cross the double solid white lines to overtake a cyclist travelling 10mph or less.

You learn something new, as they say.

I am interested to see how this brouhaha (or should it be Brewhaha?*) with the videoed angry driver will affect the business in reality. Both in the short and longer term. An interesting test of the effects of online exposure of this sort of thing and effects of social media campaigns.

Also as a regular user of Richmond Park I agree with Warns74. There is no need for any of the changes suggested. The park is for the recreational use of everyone and should not be changed for what appears to be the benefit of cyclists only when it disadvantages many of other user groups. It’s should be about considerate shared use. They already have a ban on commmercial vehicles driving through the Park by the way, which at the very least restricts the width of vehicles that can drive through the park, and I’ve seen it enforced by the police who patrol within the park.

*I’ll fetch my coat

Coming to the party late here so I’m not going to get into forensic examination of the video. I’ve seen plenty of this sort of thing from genteel Richmond Upon Thames where this took place, to rather less salubrious areas of London where the risk of something actually happening after a driver decamp is much higher. The driver was funny though, a proper little geezer – reminded me of Lock Stock & Two Smoking Barrels.

I have used Priory Lane as a route in and out of Richmond Park and I would say that surface quality and design of the cycle lane leaves a lot to be desired, which does put people off using it (and yes, they have a choice!). Most cyclists stick to the road, which in car terms is quite narrow. As it’s been said the road is used as a rat run to and from the A3 so can get quite busy. I’ve seen plenty of rather ambitious/foolhardy overtaking manoeuvres by drivers which have put cyclists and oncoming motorists at risk.

Whether you’re a driver or cyclist, or both, keep a cool head and stay safe out there. It’s just not worth being filmed and made to look like a complete numpty acoss the internet.

Thanks everyone. I think I’ll go with the grease option. I’ve ordered a 1oz sachet of Slick Honey from Ebay
( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buzzys-Slick-Honey-Suspension-Fork-Grease-RockShox-Fox-X-Fusion-Mtb-Bike-Buzzys-/171798761550 ) Cheers Mike for the heads up on the brand of grease.

Kidney.

The smell of them being cooked and the idea that they are the ‘piss gland’ are enough for me.