Just a little over your budget at £105 the MTB Batteries Lumentaor 17 is worth a look: http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/mountain-bike-lights/lumenator-17/

Agree – always worth looking out for ‘spares or repairs’ stuff on EBay in these situations. New parts can be so expensive.

That’s top advice!

Thansk scc99! (quickly Googles TLD A1…) GoPro mount with straps looks like a runner.

I’m not familiar with the X2 but Googled an MTBR thread with pics that suggest the X2 is quite receptive to a number of different mounting options including the Hope Universal Mount (which is pictured). The mounting area looks quite flat in some of the X2 pics despite the fins. How does it look on your version?

MTBR X2 thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/solarstorm-fandyfire-x2-844802-12.html

If it’s a single screw type then here are a few options.

The Hope Universal Bar mount (CRC £7.99) is a decent alterntive to the stretchy O-rings that come with many lights:

You may need to change the screw that comes with it to fit your light to get the right screw diameter and length. I have a cheapo selection box of stove bots which have served me well for various mounts. Screwfix is your friend if you don’t have any lying about.

Also the GoPro camera adapter which is on Amazon at Under £3 and plenty available on Ebay. You’ll need to swap out the quarter inch camera screw and knob for a screw that fits your light. Gives you access to the whole GoPro ecosystem for bar and helmet mounts:

I also like the Garmin ‘out front’ mount which places the light in front of the stem faceplate. This is what I’m using at the moment – as recommended by Smudge for the Lumentator on the MTB Batteries Facebook page. This is the Garmin mount I’m using from SRAM (‘SRAM Quickview Road Garmin Mount’): http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-quikview-road-garmin-bike-mount/rp-prod123353 , together with the adapter plate(‘SRAM Quickview Garmin Computer Mount Adapter’): http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-quickview-garmin-computer-mount-adaptor/rp-prod123354.

You’ll need to drill a suitable sized hole in the centre of the adapter plate for the screw that goes into the light unit (pics of this in Facebook link below). NB Garmin do a Road and a Mountain version of the adapter. If you go down this route get the Road version. It fits 31.8mm bars but is longer than the Mountain vesrion and gives more mounting options, eg you can have the light slung under the mount by mounting the mount upside down on the bars, and there will be plenty of room to get your fingers between the back of the light and stem faceplate to operate the on/off buttons.

Pics of the Garmin mount conversion are here on the MTB Batteries Facebook page of 20 August: https://www.facebook.com/mtbbatteries/photos/pcb.1256652961021038/1256652257687775/?type=3&theater

Can you give a bit more info about the light unit itself? Does it have a flat bottom with a single screw thread?

I’ve been doing some research recently for my own light mounting and might be able to help.

I’ve got nearly all of the stuff listed so far (the Jagwire brake hose tool is a favourite) but the Hilka mechanics seat is a genius idea.

Must resist…must resist…oh go on then :-)

If you want something more bespoke for a particular light then MTB Batteries can make one up for you. There is a pic of a water bottle battery on their site: http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/mountain-bike-batteries/

I can’t see why they are the casue of an MOT fail either. I’ve had a quick look at the specs and they are 55W. They compete directly with Osram Nightbreakers which I have and cause no such problems with my VW dealer and MOT.

Go back to the dealer and tell them that you don’t agree with their decision Take evidence from Phillips if you can. They will be interested to hear that their premium bulbs cause MOT failures.

If you get no joy from the dealer, you can use this route to complain about an MOT fail: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/complain-about-an-mot

Looks like they want to charge you for fitting another set of bulbs* and then giving you the ‘free’ retest.

*assuming your VW is one of those like mine which is a real pfaff to change a bulb as you have to remove lots of bits to gain access to the back of the lamps.

Re Bursford’s bike pic above why does it need to be so ‘aero’ when he’s on rollers and not moving through the air?

Have I missed something, or was the bike originally made for a different purpose?

I’ve used both and Centrelock is the much better system in my opinion. Much easier and quicker to use. No fiddling around with myriad little screws, risk of cross threading etc. Centrelock fixings do screw on pretty tight (40nm) and they incorporate a thin wavy washer type thing to help keep them secure. If you are worried about it coming loose then a couple of drops of Loctite on the threads is all you need for peace of mind.

However to fit/remove them you need a cassette lock ring tool for qr wheels, and an HT bottom bracket tool if you are running larger diameter axles e.g. 15mm Maxle at the front. Not an issue for me, but could be for those who don’t want to pack additional tools when travelling. Also 6 bolt is the more commonly available system as many other manufacturers don’t want to pay Shimano the licence fee for using their system. There could also be a minor weight benefit to 6 bolt as there appears to be a bit less less to them.

On the trail I doubt if you would need to remove a disc – cue many tales of emergency on-trail disc removal :-)

I have an external battery pack also going spare and would combine this with the IPhone 4 for longer running times.

I’m intrigued by the concept. I like its simplicity and the universal fit idea. Seems simple to install from the video. Also promises very accurate shifting and (possibly) sequential shifting in two derailleur system (for those antedeluvians like myself who run such systems).

I’m assuming there will be a weight saving making it lighter than the discarded traditional cable gubbins and shifters – one lightweight electronic shifter can control two derailleurs. They imply this but I would like to know more.

However….

– no price given at the moment (crucial!),
– reliability – small outfit which won’t be able to test like big firms
– how weatherproof and robust it will be in real world conditions
– no idea how long the battery will last/take to charge

…and I have a loathing of expensive things that use cable ties

+1 for the Lumenator mounted on the bars with a Hope universal handlebar mount: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-universal-handlebar-mount/rp-prod23533

The screw that comes with the Hope mount is too big for the Lumenator, so I replaced it with an M4 x 10mm screw.

FWIW I’ve mounted the Lumenator battery inside a Topeak Aero Wedge extra small size saddle pack, running the light’s cables along the underside of the top tube, with the brake and gear cables. Can also fit a spare tube in the saddle pack with the battery.

+1 for the MTB Batteries Lumenator.

Have had one for a few years now and it’s performed well and been reliable. Plenty of power and good battery capacity.

I clamp my conventional Thomson seatpost in the the PCS10’s jaws and it’s been pretty stable, having removed stiff pedals and BBs for example and put plenty of grunt into the bike on the stand when required without much issue. Worth noting that the stand is quite heavy at 25lbs being mostly made of steel, which in itself aids stability, but the downside is that this weight/bulk may be an issue if portability is important to you.

The issue with using the clamp on frames, particularly more delicate ones such as carbon, is that as well as a screw in action that tightens the clamp, the lever on the clamp has a clever cam system and if you’re not careful you could put in a lot of crushing force when pushing the cam lever home – this could be disastrous for thin metal of carbon frames. The cam pressure is adjustable, but I would still be quite careful – I’ve learnt my lessons from general bike DIY experience!

In terms of weight capacity Park states: ‘The maximum weight holding capacity of the PCS-10 is 80 lbs (36 kg). This assumes the weight is centered over the legs.’

Park Tool PCS10 folds down comes in at a shade over £100. Extra over PCS9 provides a much better clamp:
http://www.tweekscycles.com/bike-accessories/tools-maintenance/park-tool-pcs10-home-mechanic-repair-stand

If you’ve got an old Maglight there’s no need to bin it. They are still very well made sturdy torches that are nice to handle, it’s only that technology has moved on and overtaken them in terms of bulbs/electronics and battery life. To bring it up to date one of the third party kits to convert them to LED operation (Nite Ize or TerraLux) for a relatively low outlay gives them a new lease of life.

I’ve done this with a classic 2AA model and am very pleased with the result. Won’t be up there with the latest purpose built LED models in terms of outright performance (I also have a similarly sized LED Lenser which is better in performance terms) but you will have a very serviceable torch that’s much better than the original for under a tenner. The body of the torch will also be higher quality that some of the far eastern online cheapies.

I run a set of Wellgo MG1 pedals and I’m impressed with them. Being made of magnesium they are very light at 380g for the pair and good value at £28.99 on CRC. The plastic ones tend to be thinner and wider if that floats your boat.

Last Christmas got one of the Specialized chain breakers that fits inside the steerer and replaces the top cap. Stores a quick links as well.

Looks like a normal top cap but opens up to perform like this when removed with an allen key (see pics in review):

http://www.mtbiking.com.au/gear/specialized-swat-gear

Topeak do simething similar that is designed to fit inside handlebar ends.

I’ve done this and lived to tell the tale. Do use the ‘secret entrance’ as it will save some time. Kids will invariably want to see the dinosaur section and there is no way around the long queues for this bit of the museum at this time of year. Get it over and done with at the beginning. You could also bolt to the Science Museum on the same road which is likely to be less crowded (and quite intersting imo).

Shimano SLX are the sweet spot in the range for twin pot brakes. Good price too. Widely reported XT consistency issues in the latest version (M8000) puts me off.

However if I were in the market now I would go for the four pot Shimano Zees which have much better modulation and extra power, than the twin pots. A little pricier and a little chunkier but good reliability record.

Bought a Bontrager Flare R on the basis of its high visibility claims during daylight. Use it in flash mode during the day. Anything that alerts drivers to your presence from a distance on the road is a good thing. I am also a driver and I have no problem at all with cyclists using bright flashing rear lights during the day.

On my very first MTB I had a pair of Tioga Factory XC tyres (yes that old :-) ). They were front and rear specific with each having a very distinct tread pattern suited to its role.

Just done a search and see they’re still available after all these years in all their steel beaded goodness at under £20 for a pair. Pic below – probably not recommended for serious use..

I use the Quad Lock ‘Out Front’ mount: http://road.cc/content/review/173442-quad-lock-out-front-mount

In addition to the phone being mounted ‘out front’ ahead of the bars, it can be mounted in reverse so the phone is set back over the stem/headset in a more protected position (see pics in link). They do an optional transparent waterproof cover that slips over the hard case through which you can operate the phone (except for the fingerprint recognition feature). Phone can be attached to mount in portrait or landscape orientation.

The case itself is slimline enough that it can be left on the phone when off the bike, slipping easily easily into a pocket.

‘A milkshake just needs milk, Kahlua, and maybe some vodka’

This dude abides :-)

andysredmini, some people are just funny like that. Don’t pay any attention to the attention seekers – it’s their problem not yours. Ride your bike and enjoy it. I do.

Going back to the OP’s original post, does this mean it’s the end of the line for the single pivot Superlight and Heckler models?

RR segment filmed in Ireland: http://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/motors/top-gear-films-rolls-royce-segment-around-ring-of-kerry-1.2612411

Re what happens next, some interesting stuff from a piece co authored by three legal experts for the UK Constitutional Law Association. I know it’s now accepted wisdom that people in this country have had enough of experts, but what the hey, it might be worth bucking the trend and having a look at what they have to say…

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-uk-leaves-the-eu-36671629

….alternatively if you want to go the deluxe route you could get one of these things which is designed protect the rear dropouts from being squashed together when without a wheel, holds the chain taught, and has a built in brake pad spacer:

https://www.evanscycles.com/birzman-protective-rear-chain-spacer-with-chain-keeper-EV189309?esvt=1288-GOUKE257624&esvq=&esvadt=999999-0-38148-1&esvcrea=61233508616&esvplace=&esvd=c&esvo=EV189309-NA-NA&esvaid=50080&gclid=CPOPwZPZz80CFRS6GwodUH4D4w

Fold your peice of cardboard or plastic in half and loop a small elastic band through the middle of the fold. When you insert folded item between the pads the elastic band can go over the caliper to stop it from falling out.

Re how much of the electorate you upset, it’s 52% of a 72% turnout which is about 40%.
Sounding better already.

To add some flesh to the CharlieMungus post above where he says: ‘Bit let us not forget that organisations such as the UK statistics authority refuted some of the financial claims being made before the referendum. Particularly the NHS one, so impartial information was available.’

…The Head of UK Statistics Authority rebukes Leave campaign for £350m per week claim (twice):

>> 21st April 2016 – https://www.statisticsauthority.gov.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Letter-from-Sir-Andrew-Dilnot-to-Norman-Lamb-MP-210416.pdf
>>and 27th May 2016 – https://www.statisticsauthority.gov.uk/news/uk-statistics-authority-statement-on-the-use-of-official-statistics-on-contributions-to-the-european-union/
>>and widespread media coverage e.g. http://www.theguardian.com/politics/2016/may/27/uk-statistics-chief-vote-leave-350m-figure-misleading

They leave campaign repeated the message despite this. There should have been an independent mechanism that applied to all sides akin to advertising standards. BTW I accept there may have been similar cases on the remain side, which should have had similar treatment.

Without truth the system is deeply flawed.

[EDIT – with working links now]

If you are thinking of applying for funding, what type of project do you need funding for (Sport, Arts Charitable etc), is it a revenue project, will you be building facilities of some sort, and how much do you need? Also where you are in the UK may have some bearing on which Lottery distributor you should approach. Lottery funding for sports projects for example is though each of the home country sports councils (England, Wales, Scotland and NI each have theor own).

Funding for charitable purposes, health, education and the environment is through the Big Lottery Fund which is UK wide and distributes 40% of the money available – info here: https://www.biglotteryfund.org.uk/funding#

Whatever you apply for read the application criteria very closely and make sure you meet them. Try to talk to someone at the Lottery distributor you are applying to before you make your application. Can save a lot of time and that advice can help in giving your application the best chance.

I thought this was a joke initially, but it appears to be real – The Brexit Commmemorative Gold Plated Coin!
– http://www.westminstercollection.com/p-838W/The-BREXIT-Gold-Plated-Commemorative.aspx?sn=5&gclid=CNyT3JKvyc0CFQtAGwodUQEKgQ#tAGwodUQEKgQ

I’ve had enough. I’m going to bed. When I wake up hopefully it will all have been a bad dream.

+1 thanks scotroutes – that’s probably the only good this to come out of this sorry mess.

I know the voters have voted etc. but the Ebbw Vale media coverage:
https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2016/jun/25/view-wales-town-showered-eu-cash-votes-leave-ebbw-vale

really does remind me of this this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7tvauOJMHo

You’ve got to laugh….

This is the Quad Lock adapter that adds a GoPro style mount to their ‘Out Front’ phone mount – allows phone on the top and GoPro or other camera hanging underneath:

Out Front Mount – Camera/Light Adaptor