If you prefer to go by bus then the number 9 (to Aldwych) can be picked up on Kensington High Street and goes to Charing Cross Station.

+1 for contactless card.

I have one of the small lithium jump starters (Roypow J12, about £50). Had to use it recently after leaving things on and flattening the car battery while I was in in a rather expensive ‘pay for as long as you stay’ car park. I was up and running in less than a couple of mins.

They have to be topped up/charged regularly (I do it every 6 months or so) and if you just forget them in the boot then you may find that they won’t get you out of trouble.

Mine is USB rechargeable (most are I think) so can be charged through the car’s 12v socket via a USB adapter or USB port if you have one. So for me it was a case of jump start the car, plug in the starter pack to charge it, jand go for a drive to recharge everything.

If you are a belt and braces type then you will probably want to also carry a set of jump leads.

I have this Pedros hex Set. Long handles quite useful for some awkward bike jobs. Finished well in silver and decent tight tolerances. Quality nylon holder:

Pedro’s L Hex Wrench Set

I had a similar battery life experience with a 6 and replaced it myself with a kit from Amazon. Kit came with all the tools required to do the job at under £20. A bit fiddly – plenty of patience and steady hand required. Many instructional videos on YouTube which helped. Done over 2 months ago and has brought the phone back to full operational capacity.

If you’re not inclined to do it yourself then an independent or Apple will do it for a proportionately higher rate.

ProGold Prolink in summer, and the thicker ProGold Prolink Xtreme in winter.

+1 for tootallpaul’s suggestion. Scenic (mainly) off road route is much nicer, if longer.

Pick up the Thames path at Hammersmith Bridge and take that all the way to Weybridge (via Kew, Richmond, Kingston, Hampton Court, Sunbury, & Walton on Thames). Then pick up the River Wey Navigation at Weybridge which will take you to Guildford.

Google has the first leg from Hammersmith to Weybridge at 22.8 miles & estimates 1h49m. Second leg from Wey Navigation to Guildford is 14.9miles, estimated time 1h21m. If you follow the Wey all the err way, then some of the sections can be a bit rough under wheel. Otherwise detour on road and rejoin the Wey between Pyrford lock and where the Wey crosses the A247 (near the New Inn pub).

Alternatively for a flatter route pick up the Basingstoke canal which spurs off the river Wey just after the motowray underpass, and take that to Woking then pick up the A247 south of Woking town centre and take that to the New Inn/River Wey intersection, and take the river path or road from there to Guildford.

There are of course faster/shorter road routes if you prefer to get there quickly.

Re Endura undershorts the best one they do is called the SingleTrack Liner Short at £45-£50, which has a 500 series chamois pad. If you want a better pad in the Endura stuff then you need to look at the Endura FS260 Pro shorts which have a 600 series pad (these are Lycra road cycling shorts which can be worn under baggies at £67). There are also bibshorts, recommendations for which are covered in another current thread on here. Of course brands other than Endura are available in all categories.

Echo what pictonroad says above about ar5e giving in before legs for that type of ride, particularly if you aren’t used to that duration in the saddle.

Suggest you have a decent quality chamois, if you don’t have one already, preferably one which is rated for longer rides. I switched from the bog standard Endura ones that come with their shorts to a decent quality one and it made a huge difference. If you decide to buy a new pair of shorts/cycling underwear suggest you break in the chamois ahead of the big day.

I’d add comfort to hydration, fuelling, and pacing, as something to consider.

Please come back and give us a write up on how it went for you …and good luck!

I can recommend the Meguiars Plast-X kit mentioned above. It has a woollen fibre pad drill attachment: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/clay-bars-detailing-products/meguiars-one-step-headlight-restoration-kit

The kit also provides some abrasive pads to get you started by hand if you have particularly badly affected lenses. The drill attachment was all I needed. It made it easy to apply the Plast-X cutting compound to polish away the milky haze, and brought the lenses to a really decent level of transparency. I masked off surrounding bodywork to protect the paint, which also helped me work the rotating pad right to the edges of the lens.

Based on this success I tried the Meguiars headlight lens UV protector coating which is supposed to help stop the lenses from going milky again over time but it was rubbish. I had to go over the lenses again with the PlastX and drill attachment (much easier and quicker second time round) and found much longer term success in protecting the finish with this sealant/protector: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GLASS-POLISH-Surface-Sealant-Repellent/dp/B00A3S1RGU/ref=sr_1_42?keywords=headlight+glass+coating&qid=1559686293&s=gateway&sr=8-42

Seatpost looks like a possibility. Have a look at my post on this thread:

Help me track down an annoying click

+1 for HG Mould Spray – its v. effective.
Smells strong so ventilate well.

I’ve had something similar where the clicking/ticking happened at certain points of the pedal stroke. Took me ages to locate the noise and diagnose that the culprit was the seatpost/frame interface. It was a relatively easy fix so worth having a look.

Solution was to thoroughly clean and degrease the seatpost, seatpost clamp, and inside the frame tube (with a rag tied to a wooden dowel sprayed with isopropyl alcohol). When reassembling apply a thick grease to seatpost – I used copper grease.

These services by post/courier exist op. This one mainly does kitchen stuff but also includes outdoor knives among other services, and it was endorsed in the Telegraph a while ago. It appears to be a one man operation so quality should still be consistent. He can be contacted for a quote.

https://www.prosharp.co.uk/services.asp?c=k

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/5569520/Kitchen-knife-care-stay-sharp-or-sparks-will-fly.html

+1 for the loctite on the jockey wheel screws.

Also +1 for Quadlock here.

Have a Quadlock ‘Out Front’ mount with optional GoPro mounting attachment. Phone on top and light unit attached underneath to GoPro mount – an MTB Batteries Lumenator.

+1 for Halfords Silicone Spray mentioned above.

Spray onto a cloth and wipe onto the seal. From experience don’t spray onto the seal…no matter how careful you are it’ll go everywhere you don’t want it to.

Article in yesterday’s Observer: ‘How millennials have put a spoke in the wheels of Britain’s bicycle shops’. Interesting reading, if somewhat downbeat.

https://www.theguardian.com/business/2019/jan/12/millenials-cycle-shop-closures

+1 for the Thomson.

I’ve had one for about 10 years it’s been..err solid.

Though not stated as a preference by the OP, the black finish is as hard as nails and appears to be highly scratch resistant.

I bought a set of 3 Wusthof Classic kitchen knives and they are very well made. They are v sharp, well balanced and on the chunkier/heavier side. They feel like they’ll last a lifetime (domestic use):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wusthof-Classic-3-Piece-Knife-Set/dp/B00005MEGJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546602308&sr=8-3&keywords=wusthof+classic

At the time this set of 3 was the cheapest way to start putting together a small set from Wusthof covering my needs. I have since added a Wusthof bread knife and a Bodum universal brush block to store them in: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XKV3DXB/ref=asc_df_B06XKV3DXB57852798/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B06XKV3DXB&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231935824989&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13837845126487494673&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045955&hvtargid=pla-350576339703&th=1&psc=1

I too would be wary of knives with a soft touch handle for the reasons given above. Also don’t put decent kitchen knives in the dishwasher – it’ll wreck the blade.

One of the issues I’ve found with the Topeak torque sleeves is that the click is really subtle and quiet, and could be missed if there is background noise etc. My small torque wrench has a much more noticeable click.

I have a Proviz Reflect360 CRS in green – they do  a few other colours including yellow and orange in the CRS models.

They are incredibly reflective in car headlights at night, and with the right colour in the CRS models (CRS = Colour Reflective System) can be decently HiVis during the day. The standard Proviz Reflect360 (without CRS) only comes in a dull grey as do competitors such as the ones from Evans, and while they have the super bright reflective qualities at night they really don’t stand out during daylight. The dull grey seems to merge into the background imo.

Agree with what others have said in that the material feels quite heavy and they can get sweaty. While they have pit zips and a vent across the back they don’t match the breathable qualities of Gore Tex or similar technical fabrics so things can get a bit uncomfortable when you sweat.

It’s a compromise product and it depends on your priorities (and how much you tend to sweat). I use mine when it’s quite cold, even though I could do with the night time reflective properties all year round. I rely on plenty of lights and other reflectives when I’m wearing less eye catching but more comfortable outer layers in other times of the year.

Proviz do a couple of cuts, the standard one which is a loose ‘commuter’ style and a more fitted ‘Plus’ cut. I’ve read a few reviews that are critical of both cuts. I would definitely advise trying for fit before buying.

The Bontrager Flare City R (as per drofluf’s post above) is available from Rutland Cycling for £19.99 inc carriage:

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/accessories/lights/bontrager-flare-r-city-rechargeable-rear-light_383221

Should help bring it closer to the OP’s budget. It’s an excellent rear light.

1971 Grundig Yacht Boy radio with a Bluetooth adapter plugged into aux socket. Connects to music and Dab radio through phone’s Bluetooth.

I have a Bontrager Ion 100. It’s small and really visible with an irregular pulse mode and a sensor that alters output depending on surrounding light conditions. They are designed to be effective during the day and they pack a real punch for their size. Rutland Cycling are selling then for £19.99.

Some reviews with more details:

https://road.cc/content/review/240706-bontrager-ion-100-rflare-r-city-bike-light-set

https://www.bikeradar.com/commuting/gear/category/accessories/lights/sets/product/bontrager-ion-100-rflare-r-city-light-set-review-51117/

I have the Topeak torque bits set. C<span style=”font-size: 12.8px; line-height: 16.64px;”>olour coded, </span><span style=”font-size: 0.8rem; line-height: 1.3;”>very light, portable, and seems well made. </span>

The only issue I would advise is that the click sound to tell you when you’ve reached the desired torque setting is not very loud, and with background noise such as by a busy roadside it could be easy to miss.

For something minimalist and under £20 I have a Deuter Pulse 1 (£14.99 from Evans) which take a water bottle and has enough storage for keys and small items in two zip compartments. The Pulse 2 is the next size up (£17.15 from Evans) also takes one bottle but has larger storage compartments. There is also a Pulse 3 which is nearer £30. They all have buckles.

I had this recently with an aluminium post (Thomson) in an aluminium frame. Started creaking with every pedal stroke. Really annoying.

Using a solvent degreaser (isopropyl), I cleaned the seatpost, removed disassembled and cleaned the clamp, and cleaned inside the frame tube <span style=”font-size: 12.8px; line-height: 16.64px;”>using a rag sprayed with degreaser and tied to a stick to get down the tube. Took my time and made sure everything was spotless.</span>

Then greased contact surfaces with light even film of copper grease, reassembled and torqued to the recommended NMs. I also made <span style=”font-size: 12.8px; line-height: 16.64px;”>sure I greased the threads of the clamp screw.</span>

Been silent the last few rides. Hope this helps

Apparently there’s a forum as well as a magazine..

AutoExpress published this comparative review of mini jump starter packs earlier today. OP should be able to find something to suit his needs.

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/92728/best-mini-jump-starter-packs-2018

@ambientcoast – Your light set up looks v. interesting.

What are the run times like?

Do you think that USB powerbank will fit into a water bottle?

I’ve used the Seiko UK service centre in Maidenhead. It was for one of their solar watches which had stopped working and was still under warranty. They were good – I dropped off the watch and they sent it back in the post within a week and no problems to date (over a year). You can of course send the watch to them.

Here is their price list with details of service and repairs they offer: http://misc.seiko.co.uk/PublicPriceList-Seiko-201803.pdf

Might be worth contacting them and comparing what they quote with a quote from a local watch repairer. Contact details of Service Dept. – tel: 01628 770988 / email: service@seiko.co.uk

Perhaps it could be the subject for the STW poll. Maybe put some numbers on the conversation above. I doubt the powers that be would change anything from the (business based) reasons given but it would be interesting.

FWIW my view is that the Grinder articles were worth reading in the mag. You can have too many exotic travel articles and the magazine becomes a bit samey and unbalanced.

Auto Express did a group review of DAB singke DIN head units both mechless and with CD player: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/65466/best-dab-radio-head-units-2018

I bought a Pioneer MVH X580 DAB mechless unit about a year ago based on earlier Auto Express group reviews and I’ve been very happy with it (£109 list). I use it with a windscreen mounted DAB aerial and DAB reception has been very reliable.

EDIT – OP this looks like the earlier STW thread on DAB car audio that you were looking for: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/dab-radio-advice-for-car/

+1 for nedrapier’s bar clamp recommendation.

I have the same bar clamp (Hope branded) and it works well with my MTB Batteries Lumenator.Much better than the o-rings.

I recall I had to change the little screw that attaches to the light’s body for one with the right diameter for the hole in the Lumenator – I used an M4x10mm (from Screwfix).

If all the above options fail then you may wish to try this method which has worked for me.

Pump up the tyre to whatever the normal pressure should be, then identify where on the tyre the bead hasn’t seated and is still tucked inside the wheel. Look for moulded lines along the sidewall of the tyre which aren’t parallel to the edge of the rim.

When you’ve identified where the bead isn’t seated properly put the tyre on the ground in front of you so that your hands are at the top and you are facing the side of the wheel. The bit of unseated bead should be facing you at the bottom. Put the tip of your trainer on the outside of the tyre sidewall where the bead isn’t seated and apply a little pressure with your toe to gain purchase on the rubber, against the ground. Then using your hands gently roll the tyre away from while gripping the sidewall with the tip of your trainer. The bead should (hopefully) be pulled into place with a gentle pop.

Easy does it, and keep the tip of your trainer pressed on the sidewall but off the wheel rim. A gentle roll away with the arms is usually enough.

+1 for Kenda Small Block 8. Rolls fast and excellent for summer conditions.

+1 for the Adidas Trail Cross SL shoes: https://m.adidas.co.uk/terrex-trail-cross-sl-shoes/CM7562.html

Adidas now own Five Ten and they use the same Stealth rubber sole on these MTB shoes.

Yep, count me in. Occasional poster and occasional rider.

I can recommend the C K Magma tool roll. Very well made, sturdy, and a great size for bike tools. In terms of maximum length of bike tool it will accommodate I’ve got a Park SR1 chain whip which is about 14 inches long in mine, so should take a fork pump. Uses buckles to secure and has a carrying handle.

Takes quite a lot of stuff and lays it out quite nicely so everything is to hand. You can combine with a cheap bucket for carrying bottles of fluids, aerosols, cloths etc. You can fit the tool roll end-on in the bucket for transportation and still have plenty of room for other items.

£12.80 on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/C-k-Magma-MA2718-Tool-Roll/dp/B00517FFRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525696626&sr=8-1&keywords=c+k+magma+tool+roll

Here’s a Googled pic of the tool roll loaded with a few bike tools to give an idea of size and layout:

Rockhopper – good to hear it’s not just me that has found that the performance of MucOff spray has changed considerably for the worse. Used to work quite well but now it doen’t seem to do anything much.