Always have pair of these with me in a pocket (or backpack when cycling) for occasional/emergency use. Tiny, flat and completely protected by the case. About £19 on Bezos’s Bargains. Great for short term use. Not a replacement for a proper pair of reading glasses with arms. Looks are bit Poirot (‘pince nez’ I think I’ve heard them called) but I’m past caring about that sort of thing.

https://www.thinoptics.com/en-gb/collections/shop-all/products/readers-silver-keychain-case

Last time I used Kwik fit at home a couple of years ago there was a two tyres minimum requirement.

Recent group test of rust remover/converters on Auto Express: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-reviews/354923/best-rust-converters-2024

I also have a Leatherman Style PS. Great tool to take on a ride. Small well made and proved itself on many occasions. Shame they’ve discontinued it. If I had to buy again the Gerber Dime looks good.

Elite SYSSA Race fits the bill of the OP.

Elite Deboyo Race is the thermally insulated version.

Both share the same cap/mouthpiece, which has a decent crud protector.

I have been using a Cleva Vacmaster 20litre wet and dry vacuum with power take off for about 10 years for garage and outdoor jobs and it has performed pretty well:

Vacmaster Multi 20 PTO Wet & Dry Vacuum Cleaner

I originally bought it so I could attach it to my circular saw to reduce the amount of sawdust spewed out by the saw. I needed something that was light and compact so avoided the next size up which is  30l.  The power take off means you can plug the power tool 240v plug into the vacuum cleaner for power. When you switch on the saw the vacuum cleaner switches on, and when you switch off the saw the vacuum cleaner powers off after about 5-10  seconds. Also used it for loads of more mundane tasks. It also turns into a blower quite easily (just make sure you empty the dust collection part…)

Not sure how it compares to others mentioned here, but I can recommend it if you’re looking for something smaller with those particular features favouring power tools.

Bontrager Ion 100 R fits the bill. Designed for daylight running. Works well.

Quadlock out front mount here. Very stabl.

You can also buy a Go pro accessory mount made by Quadlock which I’ve attached my front light to. The Go Pro mount screws into the underside of the out front mount and the light sits underneath the phone (Lumenator fitted with a generic Go Pro attachment)

Frydays in Penryhn Bay is good. Had some fish and chips from there on Saturday. FIL is a regular.

Big queues in the evenings – but you can phone your order in ahead and collect from hatch window at a given time slot, which is what we did.

The chain tool on my Topeak Hexus works well – has been mentioned by others on here too.
Also the Park Tool mini chain breaker CT5 is good as a standalone portable tool.
Have used both ‘in the field’ and can vouch for them.

Looking at this thread as an interesting piece of market research it looks like there’s a gap in the market for an all in one bike multitool which includes: decent mini pliers; a chain tool; all the usual screwdrivers hex & torx keys; and perhaps some tyre levers a chain hook amongst other things.

Someone who knows what they’re doing get onto Kick Starter straight away!

Just re read my earlier post and it should have said ‘They have a decent pad…’

Have a look at the Endura Singletrack Liner Short, currently discounted at Wiggle:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/endura-singletrack-liner-cycle-shorts

They have a pad and I find them comfortable for an all dayer.

I have a Topeak Aero Wedge Pack XS/Micro which is small, well made, tucks under the saddle neatly and surprisingly capacious:
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/129-AERO-WEDGE-PACK
Comes in various sizes – you may be able to get all your gear into an XS/Micro which is 0.4l. If not then the Small which is 0.66l.

For small Leatherman pliers there’s the Leatherman Style PS which works well as a portable bike tool together with a multitool like the Topeak Hexus X:
https://packhacker.com/travel-gear/leatherman/style-ps-multi-tool/

If you don’t need a wood saw I suggest the following:

– the Topeak Alien multitool is quite chunky and heavy at nearly 300g and has a lot of stuff you don’t really need. You could swap it for a lighter, smaller, well featured multitool such as a Topeak Hexus X (167g & £14) with contains a decent chain tool, Allen keys which have a good length, tyre levers and all the other useful stuff you might need in a mechanical emergency. There are some really small multitools on the market but you’ve got to weigh up their lack of size against their ability to get you out of a scrape, compared to something a bit bigger and better equipped. I refer in particular to really short stubby allen keys and chain tools which are poor in operation.

– Leatherman Charge Ti could be swapped for something of similar quality but much smaller with decent pliers, eg The Leatherman Style PS. It’s tiny (45g against 238g of the Charge Ti), well made and the pliers work well on a bike. It has an inbuilt carabiner which means you can clip it somewhere (clothing, bike etc.) Has got me out of a few scrapes. Also, It also comes without a blade if that’s important to you (see recent threads about this issue).

– I’d ditch the co2 stuff if you already carry a pump

I’ve used the Meguiars One Step Headlight Restoration Kit and it worked well. Comes with a rotary woollen mop so a drill is required. I masked the area around the headlight with some cheap masking tape.

My tip is to start with quite a low drill speed to keep the cutting compound liquid on the surface of the lens, and work it horizontally then vertically. Speed up to buff clear at the end. Kit also comes with some abrasive pads for hand sanding if your lenses are particularly bad – you then progress to the drill and mop for the finishing stage. I didn’t need those as mine were quite milky at first but not pitted etc. Kit costs about £22 from a well known online retailer (containing the letter z)

I think the kits mentioned above from other manufacturers will do a similar job. The main issue is that even after applying a sealant (eg car polish) they will eventually go a bit milky again and need redoing. However after the first time I found it’s much quicker to achieve a good clear finish on subsequent applications. Did mine yesterday and it took about 15 mins including masking.

I can vouch for the Topeak Race Rocket MT, which looks like a direct competitor to the Lezyne Pressure Drive. No valve core issues that others have reported re Lezyne head. Also comes in a road version.
I haven’t tried the Lezyne pump.

Rather than looking for a super short water bottle you could try a water bottle cage adjuster, which would allow you to position the cage lower down in the frame. This would allow you more scope in terms of bottle length.

Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154416232697

iainc

You could downsize and save some weight with something like the Leatherman Style PS which is small and has no blade. It has a set of pliers which are well made, and I find together with a Topeak Hexus in the pack is great for all day rides. Has come in useful many times and I think the small size of the pliers can be a real advantage for bike related stuff.

https://packhacker.com/travel-gear/leatherman/style-ps-multi-tool/

The legal angle on carrying knives by ‘Blackbelt Barrister’ on Youtube (he’s a real barrister apparently):

Anyone run tubes containing sealant? I see Muc Off have a specific inner tube sealant, which is different to their tubeless sealant:
Inner Tube Sealant

I tried the slime filled tubes many years ago and they eventually dried up inside and had to be chucked. The Muc Off stuff claims to not dry out in a similar way.

I have a Coleman Xtreme 3 26L passive cool box like the ones reviewed below:

Coleman Xtreme 3 Cooler Review

Coleman 28QT Xtreme cooler review

I use plenty of ice packs and it performs really well when it’s properly hot and left in the boot of the car all day. Everything inside is still v. cold.It’s great returning to the car after an all day bike ride in peak summer.

As others have said pack the box out, use plenty of ice packs and avoid opening it unnecessarily or leaving the lid up too long when getting things out – warm air getting in is the enemy. It’s also advisable to pre chill stuff before it goes into the cool box for max performance.

In terms of investment this cool box can be had for about £55 plus the cost of ice packs, though you could forego ice packs and just use drinks bottles containing ice from the freezer.

this place always gives a good range of ideas and advice

Agree

The Topeak Hexus multitool has a very usable chain breaker. I’ve used it a few times and it’s always worked well. The rest of the tool isn’t bad either – good value too.

Thanks P-Jay – yes standard 240v plug and output USB. I have a device which needs USB power and just came with a USB lead, no power adapter.

EDIT …and thanks to everyone else who replied while I was typing this

The Olight bike light posted above by jeffl is the same as the Magicshine Monteer 3500, but cheaper.

Magicshine® Monteer 3500 MTB Headlight

I’ve used a Meguiars kit which comes with their PlastX plastic polishing compound and a woollen polishing pad which attaches to a drill. Protect the bodywork surrounding the headlights with masking tape and it’s important to start by setting the drill to a low speed and keep working the paste into the headlight lens, methodically covering the whole lens horizontally then vertically repeating as necessary. Using the drill pad makes easy work of cutting through the haziness and achieving a clear finish. NB some sort of polish/protector afterwards to stop the lenses going hazy again quite quickly is essential (not included in kit).

The kit is the ‘Meguiar’s G1900KEU One-Step Car Headlight Restoration Kit’ on Amazon (other retailers are available). Also comes with a couple of more abrasive hand sanding pads to get you started if the lenses are really far gone, then use the drill pad. I went straight in with the drill pad attachment and got good results – as clear as the ones in the pic on paton’s post above.

Replaced the elements in a Dualit toaster. Ordered spares from the factory and watched a ‘how to’ video on YouTube.

Contents of CK Magma tool roll:

Contents of CK Magma Tool Roll:

+1 for the CK Magma Tool Roll, plus a box of parts/spares

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Crud XL is good for situations where there is limited clearance between top of tyre and the fork arch as it has a cutout. Also if you need to remove the mudguard after each ride (eg to fit bike into a car, front wheel off so it can lie flat) then the Crud XL can be removed and refitted frequently as it secures to the fork legs with O rings which are easily unhooked, rather than the ubiquitous zip tie.

I have the Jagwire Sport Needle Driver and the Jagwire Sport Hydraulic Hose Cutter.
https://jagwire.com/products/tools
I’ve used them for a few Shimano brake set ups and results are good. Around £30 for both tools.

honourablegeorge – re the second link, on Amazon they’re called ‘Granite Talon Tyre Levers with Master Link Pliers Function, Quick-Link Chain Removing Tool’ £10.99

Cheaper end of things:
https://www.merlincycles.com/kmc-missing-link-tyre-levers-189379.html?utm_source=PHG&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&ucpo=111691&source=PHG
(I have these^ and they do the job well enough)
&

Less cheap end of things:
https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wolf-Tooth-Components/Master-Link-Combo-Pliers/HY96

Wellgo MG1 magnesium flat pedals will take standard pedal reflectors

Thanks Sandwich – is it the tubeless Muc Off sealant that let you down or their sealant specifically designed for use inside inner tubes? You mention tubeless tyre sealant at the end of your post so I just want to be sure which one you mean.

I’m interested in the one designed to work inside inner tubes which they say does not dry out. Their tubeless specific sealant has a different formulation and will dry out according their blurb – they say it lasts up to 6 months.