3 chains – bulk buy discount – swap regularly, if you snafu a chain (as I have done more than once) and try put new chain on worn drivetrain, it goes into involuntary autochange mode. Keep a spare in the car incase of a snafu event horizon – so it doesn’t necessarily ruin a days riding.

OP wasnt on the whole such a good idea after all

That is what I built, I am heavier than you. Bfe = same but cheaper. If I need to save weight diet will be my first port of call.

Where will she be working (make sure it wont change), see what of the TfL network is convenient, decide how long she wants to travel, work back along the possibe routes that equates to that.

TROUT – is your email address working at the moment? Only I know you’ve had issues before and I sent you a couple of emails.

:lol: @ derekrides

Nope, they are AM45s all right, ’cause they say it on there. They just arnt that god awful looking new style ones.

Safest option is to fein change of mind, say ‘so sorry’ u turn and walk back where you came from. When coast is clear, retry :|

Why would you pay PP gift for fleabay stuff?

Take off big ring, put on bashguard (optional). Depending on your chainring bolts you may need longer ones for bash or shorter for no bash.
Adjust front mech

Aerodynamic effects take over at between about 30 to 35mph. So below that weight of the car is the predominant factor.

2 factors influence the aerodynamics, frontal area and drag coefficient.
Drag inreases with the square of speed. 70 to 80 is generally accepted to be associated with a 15 to 20% decrease in consumption. If you have a high frontal area (mini MPV / SUV) it will be worse than a slippy saloon.

But this is all steady state. what influences consumption more is accelerating. How you drive is most important. Commuting at 80 on an empty motorway will produce better figures that 80 on busy commuter time motorway.

My best consumption figures are produced on cruise control. Using this it is simply staggering how much everyone else is varying their speed.

Women are nice to others but dont mean it
Men are insulting to others but dont mean it.

Its just the male coping mechanism

Ambrose, your CV is backwards AND mostly contains stuff that is irrelevant now. The more experience you have the shorter your CV can be.
For you the CV is really a career profile noting distingushing achivenets/featrues. You have not dealt at all with the core competencies that tehy will be looking for. Check a typical job spec sheet for your job. these are what you have to demonstrate, not the miriad of great stuff you have organised. fundamentally a head is looking for someone to take care of the business of teaching and fit in – i.e. save him work and make the shcool perform better in league tables.

Shimano AM45 Boots. Size 46. An excellent SPD boot, good ankle protection. Used about 6 times before I decided to go back to flats, so a few scuffs but otherwise in really good nick. £40posted

Shimano notoriously come up a size too small. I am a 46, but I had to swap innersoles on these for very thin ones to make them fit (originals are back in). So if you are a 45 normally then 46 should be spot on.

gentlemen.
do your part, contribute, share the burden.
show her your love, show her your loins.
when it all goes shit-shaped.
ignore hertake all the blame.
easy.

FTFY

men are just weird

Pot, Kettle :P

My definition of the perfect partner is someone who will put up with me!

What size are you, I got some size 46 AM45s for sale

Right. Cheers all who commented. I need to get out and cycle more in the dark eves so have hit pay on a Smudge. Reckon he should give a commission to STW :lol:

See how I get on with that then may add a bar mounted one just to annoy any local stargazers.

stevemorg – yes please chap, email in profile if you would

Simple expedient of lowering my wifes expectations to the floor years ago, so anything above that is above target. You only have to go though the pain of 3 forgotten bithdays/aniversaries then it becomes the norm. To be sure, I maintain the propoganda that all men are rubbish, but she’s lucky because I am a little less rubbish than the rest. :wink:
She’s a darling she is (but dont tell her I said so or you will spoil the ruse).

I am leaning towards a smudge XML for my helmet to start me off (never done a night ride before), rather than the magicshine.

I have emailed troutie to see if he still has any lumicycle conversion kits for the old lumicycle stuff I picked up a while ago.

I know this has all been done before but appreciate the feedback.

Thanks, that didnt help me decide one bit :D

Changed elixir pads on the mountain at afan last weekend so probs. Juicys a bit more trouble in the harage a week later.

TOP TIP on cracking the bleed screw, will make getting pistons back in a little bit easier. Cheers, er, fellas!

I have a P&T for sale in classifieds at the mo if you are interested

BFe. Surely in line for most popular bargain of the winter?

I currently run some 2bliss eskars. They are nice tyres, but a bit heavy. always run 1cup of milk in tubless ready and 2 in non-tubeless.

IMO tubeless tyres are not worth the weight disadvantage. I normally run non-tubless and seal them up, its a bit of a faff but I have seal up every crap tyre I had no problem, just leave them overnight to seal.

Never had a puncture, but do burp. Quick pump and away you go again.

Carl Sagan was that idiot who expounded all kinds of childish theories wasnt he.

Oops, I was thinking of Erich von Däniken. My bad :?

Carl Sagan was that idiot who expounded all kinds of childish theories wasnt he. Anyway the average ditance earth to moon is 238857 miles, not 4 billion.

When you watch some of the stuff on TV you realise just how hostile space is to humans. Talk about fish out of water. You can get people up and back, but realitvely quickly, keeping them there alive for a long time is the tricky part. The ISS needs constant replenishing.

Cheers Del, but I have stopped being dim and worked it out myself!

idling engines for long periods of time does them no good-the bores glaze due to to not enough loading on the crank

Good point. Better to die than glaze your bores eh :?

I was quoted 5k just outside london by council contractors for new roof. flat roof should be iro 1.5 to 2k I would guess.

Sounds like a bleedin fortune to me. Why were the council quoting?

My experience of any kind of ball-bearing bearing wear is that it isnt even, you get that rollercoaster effect. Why is that?

maybe

Do you think maybe he was joking?

Err, do you think maybe I was joking too? :|

Can you tell what it is yet? :?

I’m made of carbon and I can categorically state that I was affected by the cold on last might’s ride.
The solid ground made for really fast Riding, though

FFS. Not the same though is it Bob, because you are not held together by resin are you! Unless there is something you are not telling us….. :?

I had this on an XTR, one side very stiff. Be v careful not to cross thread. My trick is to put gentle even pressure then turn backwards slowly until you ‘feel’ the place where the 2 thread tails meet, then start to wind in on. Takes some practice, but just the winding back thing can help make sure you dont cross thread

+1 Weissmann, get the 100 – same but less bells and whistles. 900 all in for 33kw year ago. Installed myself.

[Edit – oh and depends where you are but I ballpark 400-600 for same place re-installation]

Check oil level after you have left it. on modern low oil/water capacity cars the light shouldnt come on unless there is literally no oil on the dipstick.

When mine flickers during long sweeping fast corners (coming off on curved motorway junctions etc) I know its time to top up. When it stated flcikering when stationary I realised it was the sensor.