“All Points North” by Simon Armitage, read by the author, is excellent.

“Life of Pi” by Yann Martell (?)

Love the Mournes one. Great hills (done the MMM a couple of times)

This one might not qualify since it has no bikes and is from last April…

Dalwhinnie.

Thanks rj.

Eh?

Crossed posts – you mean it wasn’t working before but is now?

How very peculiar

Bah!

Oh well, back to FF.

Cheers Oggles.

A-ha!

Got it.

Cheeky Monkey’s advice is sound. Instead of using a star-nut, I bought a steerer plug thing which looks like it is well engineered – 3 knurled facets tighten within the tube and grip it, then you screw the top cap into the inner thread. However it has a 1mm lip which sits on top of the steerer tube and seemed to be fouling the underside of the top cap. I stuck an extra spacer on and it seemed to tighten more BUT all it was doing was pulling the plug out! On inspection the knurled surfaces have some copper slip on them and the inside of the steerer is very smooth so it obviously wasn’t gripping.

I’ll degrease it all tomorrow and try again (or whack a star nut in!)

Thanks guys – I’m pretty sure the problem is solved.

PDFs show no split ring – bearing cap has a chamfered edge to do the same job.

Brilliant – cheers Ton & Steve (& others)!

There’s no plastic split ring…

I know the kind of thing you mean – FSA headsets have alu ones, to push into the space between the bearing and the steerer tube.

I’m pretty sure I didn’t see one when I took it apart…

(Off to CK website)

Paypal is great Ton (to me though, unless Druidh is acting as my banker…)

Not to the address in profile but the hotmail one I used for the Hope kit.

Cheers!

I’m grateful for anything (I’m just un-subtly bumping the thread…) :-)

Ah, go on!

Yup.

Well, it went on the same way as it was before… inner flange upwards.

(“inner flange” hur hur!)

Bearings appeared to have all the original grease still in them – pretty clean too.

Gulliver Travels read by Robert Hardy.

Very, very good.

Steerer is fine. It’s straight and it sits about 2mm below the top spacer so there is plenty of space to pull everything together.

It was cut to exactly the same length as the steerer on the old forks.

Hi Guys,

Sorry I’ve not been responding to this thread recently. I’ll add new respondents to the list and I’ll get The Plan out soon… (it’s the last week of skool term and I’m up to my eyes in it)

Due to numbers, I’m proposing to split the group into 2 or maybe 3 smaller autonomous groups provided I can find others who know the area well. This will hopefully speed things up as large groups are just inherently slower.

Cheers,

SC

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OK – that’s put my mind at rest a bit.

Cheers guys.

If shite gets in the hole it’ll accumulate against the steerer tube and seep down into the headset bearings.

Joe – normally I’d have top and bottom bolts done up equally but this stem has a hook which holds the bottom of the faceplate brackets flush against the stem body hence the big gap at the top. (Not sure that makes sense…)

I’ll try the silicon sealant.

Kit,

Aye – near enough. Summit of Andrew Gannel Hill with that superb descent in the background – needs a lot of concentration!

Saturday:

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Descent in the background – tasty!

Cheers.

I’ve just found the tech. PDFs on the Shimano site – looks like it’ll just go straight on the PM without an adaptor. Sorted!

Hmmm…

Questions, questions.

To be honest Jambo, I’m a bit ignorant about these things. They appear to be post mount calipers which are bolted onto IS adaptors. I kind of assumed that I could just remove them from the adaptors and stick them straight on a post mount.

Currently using 160mm disc and I can find PM to PM adaptors for 185 and 203 rotors so I assumed (again) that 160mm is the default size for post mount.

Excellent.

Andy@Innerhaven – I replied to your email but your mail server has bounced it (mailbox full apparently). Do you have an alternative?

SC

Will do Devs.

I’m putting a plan together which I’ll email out sometime this week (I know I said that last week as well, but I promise this time…)

Standing at 15 people so far.

Get those emails to me folks if you’re interested.

Stans kit.

Bit of a faff to get the rim strip properly seated, but after that it was a breeze with Bonty Jones ACX tyres. Been perfect since.

Old bridge for comparison purposes:

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Obligatory Robin

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Common Frog

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Stonechat

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Common Wood Sorrel

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Common dog Violet

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Fir Clubmoss

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Devil’s Bit Scabious

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Marsh Spotted Orchid

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If you look 180 degrees…..

Wind farm?

Clean energy! :D

Yup. Recommended.

I’ve got 2006 Revs on my full-sus and they’ve served me well though they’re looking like they may need replaced. Easy to tune (rebound, compression, + and – air) and pretty robust.

Not sure if they have advanced much in the last 3 years and Fox may have stolen a march with the new Floats but it looks like a steal at the price in the current climate.

Same as Pieface.

Revs 100-130mm on my bike for the last 3 years and almost never used the travel-adjust. It got some use initially but I’ve just adapted my riding style to move the weight forward a bit on steep climbs.

I wouldn’t bother. New forks will be 140mm Floats.

Dust and scratches I’m not too worried about. I’m well practised in the clone stamp tool when I can be bothered, it’s more the sharpness and dynamic range that I’m after and I’m not convinced my purloined scanner is really up to the job, particularly when I see that railway station shot.

Nedrapier,

that railway station shot is superb – lots of shadow and highlight detail.

Thanks Andy,

I can see the difference quite clearly with those two. I’ve never been very sure of the USM settings to use and seem to err on the side of too conservative.

I’ll need to investigate whether PS can do a batch USM.

Cheers.

I’m doing another batch of shots from Pembroke just now and they look pretty rank so far… Soft, poor contrast, blown highlights – I suspect the originals aren’t great though.

I’ve got some from a US climbing trip to do later taken with a decent camera (Ricoh GR1s) so I’d be interested to see how they come out.

Brilliant Andy.

Post ’em here and email the full size ones to me if you don’t mind. I removed dust and hair from some of them but got a bit lazy as the evening wore on.

I’m using the default unsharp mask on the scanner app. which is fine for up to around 1024 pixels across, but the softness becomes apparent as you go in closer. I suspect a lot of this is down to the camera itself – have a look at this one full size, it holds up pretty well I think; I seem to remember it being taken on a Pentax SLR with a decent telephoto lens:

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Cheers for comments and advice so far guys.

Excellent idea Rich – would it be worth it in quality terms?

I’m looking for good colour density, contrast and sharpness. Slide film has the former two attributes but the original shots may not be very sharp.

Mybike,

Yup – most of the Verdon stuff is bolted, apart from the occasional trad route like La Demande.

The third pic is round the back of the Mer de Glace on the Envers des Aiguilles walls which are (were) “sportingly bolted”