RS Domains.

Forgot about them. Good forks, built like a tank too!

To be fair, if i said i would pay on a certain day and had a problem/delay i would let the seller know and assure him/her that the money is def on the way. Sounds like nothing of this sort has happened, so PP has a good right to ask moral advice.
I've had people in the past say they'll pay and weeks later (and other buyers lost) im no further forward…

Unless your frame needs it look at less better quality travel? Other than that dont get a jr T…horrible forks! I would look at a 66 or a 150mm z1.

I have to say i loved the fox damping, infact i run a 36 now and an f100 on the xc bike. Im not too bothered about the qr on the xc forks as the speeds and riding is differenet. Its just fox made such a bad move going to a 15mm not a 20mm axle. If you ride them hard you'll notice the difference.

I know pros that use these and don't have any problems

You mean the pros that get paid/get them free? If someone paid me to ride them i would say they are awesome too 🙄

I had a set last year. Didn't last long! Came from pikes to them and wow what a difference…no where near as reassuring to have them. Went straight back to pikes. And im only 72kg.

I have worn cleats on my commute shoes…if i pull up had in the pedal stroke my foot comes out…they dont click anymore when i 'clip in' and most of the time feel like in not cliped in at all. Now, when i go for an xc ride i have nice shoes with new cleats…a whole lot harded to unclip…same bike, same pedals, nothing changed bar the shoes/cleats. Shimano SPD…

Same with the crank bros i used to use…worn=easier to unclip.

I cant see how a worn cleat will give you knee problems. Worn cleats will have more float and unclip easier so will do no harm…

Mate of mines Had them 3-4months light work nothing too drastic tho, & then started sticky,feeling Knotchy,etc .
Few stantion wear marks LIGHT at 1st so i serviced them for him..
& WOW these were lurking under the lowers LOL

Cant believe thats from 3-4 months light use! I serviced a mates pike last year…06 pike air, never serviced, powerwashed to death and ridden alot…it had 2" mud (yes mud, not gloop!) in the bottom of the spring leg…looked pretty similar to those.
You can see where the bush and seals sit, and that there is a massive wear patch above those. Not saying that it all occurs above, but mose wear will come from the top bush, which just happens to be the one that slides over visible stanction.

Mulletus Maximus, the lowers strip down (in the link) is the same. Or do you want to give the fork a full strip down?

If you've got them from classifieds you dont know when they were last serviced, so you should open them up and give them some TLC anyway, IMO. Then you know where you're starting from for the next interval.

Do it from new too…sounds ridiculous, but fork manufactures are renowned for getting oil levels wrong in new forks.

Tandem, do you notice any difference to the performance by adding oil to the spring side? Based on my experiences with old (read good) marzocchis, adding oil would affect the performance (as the remaining air volume compressed).

Shoudlnt do has fox seals arent designed to hold air (like marz seals are). I would think 150ml is over the top, but im sure putting 30-50ml in wouldnt do any harm.

My legs are pretty waterproof…i use them when its not cold 😀

stuartanicholson,

That's just what I was looking for, Excellent.
Your welcome 🙂 .

Dont worry about the intervals, after youve done the procedure a few times it'll only take you 10-15 mins.

Riding clips on road is very differnt to riding off road. If shes new to off road clip us she will probably appreciate being able to clip out very easily a first.
Shimano and time are virtually maintenance free…crank bros are not (and virtually drop apart as you look at them!).

Quite possibly, but at the time those were the instructions given by Fox or Mojo, can't remember which.

Should have pointed out that mojo have changed their reccommended quick lube procedure from lifting seals to removing lowers. Bad early practice from mojo?

Lift the seals add lube,

For me thats not the proper way…crap in the seal stays in the seal. Only proper way is to remove lowers compleatly and clean.

IMO all fox have wrong is the seals they use…they let oil out and crap in (hence the short service intervals). If they got a better quality sealing system then this problem (for folk who dont like oil 😀 ) would be dramatically reduced.

Shimano are very good and are best for learning (as you can alter the spring tension). M520 is the base model and come in at about £18 and are very good, no point spending more. If you want a cage round the pedal so you can ride better when not clipped in (but are heavier) then get some M647s.

THIS

Haha, this thread is an awesome fail!

2006 F100 – maintained well, flawless!
2009 36 Talas – maintained well, flawless!

Though i should add friends fox too…
07 40 – Very little maintenance, no problems.
08 40 – Maintaned well, no problems.
07 32 – Pretty much zero maintenance, no problems.

In reality, the only benefit of a flat bar that anyone cares about is a low front end…eg when i put 36s on my 5 i got some flat bars to bring the height back down.

It occurs to me that either there's a hole in the market for a wide flat bar with up and back sweep comparable to a riser bar

How can a flat bar have up and backsweep 😀

What sweep you looking for?

Why's that? Is there an inherent problem with riser bars?

No, just flat bars have a higher strength to weight ratio…

Except many forks aren't warranted for more than 30mm of spacers. And it looks gash…

Cant argue with that!

Low is the way forward, just not too low 😉

More engineering sense? What would a 50mm stem with 2" rise in it look like? Better engineering than a 50mm flat stem and a 2" bar?

Or using your steerer tube to do the rise…now that makes engineering sense!

Alot depends on how your headtube/frame is designed…a normal headtube will give a higher bar height than an integrated design, so if you want low bars on a normal h/t design you may have to go with flat bars (like in the pic above).

Just assumed they had bolts in cap (like 09).

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/TALAS/TALAS_R.htm
…and follow insructions…

Oh and last serviced jan 09!!!!

Yes, remove air (just in case) then remove the two small bolts in the blue dial.

How often do you service them?

Fox 35…new fork is it 😉

Oh and for the lubing oil in the lowers any 7wt/10wt fork oil will do…some use motor oil etc.

As you have an 09 fork you'll be happy to hear fox did away with the IFP chamber for 09 and its alot easier to service…no football adaptors needed! See here.
Do a lower and seal lube whilst your at it and they should be running sweet. Any more questions feel free to email me…they really are easy forks to work on so dont go wasting £100s on servicing…

Best bet is to give the talas spring a quick strip down then see how it is after.

I had a set of 07 wooootans…not very impressed. No low speed compression and the albert select is rough when on. I hear they have solved this all for 2010, but i wouldnt consider one without a ride. Also, the travel adjust seems to work differently to the fox, so when in low travel mode they're really soft.

For 09 fox have added some damping! I have a set of 09 talas r and they feel superb compared to 07/08 36s. If it were my money i would be looking for some 09 float/talas (r or rc2) and get some travel spacers (if you look to a float).

Took mine out with a screwdriver…new ones are £50 so put the old one back in. It was abit mangled, but bodge job works…
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/stuartanicholson/DSC_5811.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/stuartanicholson/DSC_5810.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/stuartanicholson/DSC_5812.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63/stuartanicholson/DSC_5816.jpg
Left out the sleeve and packed the new bearings with grease…been going since end of december just fine!

My headet bearings have been fine. Stripped and re-greased every now and again. They are just normal integrated bearings so dont know if noticably higher quality can be found…

SLX cranks are pretty similar to XT but much cheaper…definatly worth a look.

Not sure if you can really tell that much from a test ride. You can change a bike so much by changing stem/bar/seatpost combos that unless the demo centre are going to sit and change combos its pointless. And even then it takes time to get used to a bike.

I demoed a spicy with high rise bars and 70mm stem (stock) and it felt aweful. Bought one, sold everthing on it and put my own stuff on. Now short stem, low bars and straight post and it feels amazing…plus im used to it now.

Not that much riding in the vid…and it all seems to be of the same section..

Depends what year 5 you have. I had an 08 and put 36 talas on to replace my pikes. Much better HA and better all round. 09 are 1deg slacker though but i would still be tempted to stick a 36 on it.
Also had a 10mm bolt up rear which is well worth it.

My feet are the furthest place on my body from my nose, so im not too bothered…ie i never clean mine (well the rain cleans them!).

Just found this after lots of searching! Not tried it, but may be of use…
http://dns-dn.livejournal.com/54936.html

Or in russian!
http://dns-dn.livejournal.com/54017.html

Btw – I got the FSA XLII from merlin for the princely sum of £20. I wouldn't shell out for a hope headset again. I ended up replacing the bearings (at the cost of £10 each) in under 12 months use.

Do you jetwash?

ure somebody suggested that on here if a headset has cartridge bearings, it's okay to cut the crown race with a saw…is that true?

Cut mine and have no problems over the last year. I always put the split at the front so crap has less chance getting in.

In fact here is a mix chart for silkolene rsf…
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/files/Silkolene%20Mix%20Chart.pdf

And here is where my oil come from…
http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_cat/810
Quite cheap considering free delivery for 3 pots.

Anywhere cheaper for silkolene?