well i run 1×9 on my commuter and im surprised how versatile it is
its improved my fitness too!
11-32 with a 44 tooth ring

but i reckon a 12-36 with a 36 up front could be 'the schnizzle' for off road stuff
Yeah, 1×9 surprised me too, versatile and i only have to think about one shifter!
Im just about to go to a 11-34 with 34 front. The 11t is useful and gives a higher gear than the 12t and 36 front.

i want it so i can drop my front derailier stick on a chain device and have one less thing to worry about maintaining and or breaking on my bike

But you can do the same with 9spd…granted 1×10 would be slightly better, but if you're not 1×9 now i dont see the massive need.

Yeah not good for you. You'll go through peaks and troughs because of the type of sugar in the drinks and you'll get addicted to the stimulants.

Kriss Akabusi

Heard one of his speaches…quite motivating!

http://www.nyt.co.uk/kriss.akabusi.htm

Interesting point, i take it after you wash the bike with the de-greaser you go around and re-lube all the moving parts… 😉
Degreaser has a nasty habit of getting into places you dont want it, like bearings, forks, mechs, shocks, etc.

Why does everone clean their bikes with chemicals? Do you need more than water to remove mud? Or have you all been riding through puddles of oil?

CRC have 15mm 09s for 450.

Surely with USD forks its all about the tube diameter. Increasing the tubing cross section will incresase the strength exponentially…MX bikes can use larger tubing so are much stiffer hence they can use USD forks. Look at the foes xtd f1 fork, it uses a 30mm axle and users have no problems with stiffness and dont weight too much either.

Just send them off for a service, that way you get it done properly and you get to keep your warranty intact

How can something thats recommended by the manufacturer as part of routine maintenance void the warranty? I think not! 😉

This is for non FIT carts, ie open dampers.

1)Make sure fork is clean. Undo two bottom bolts half way with allen key (remove any adjusters first).
2)Tap with soft mallet to release carts from lowers (keep forks upside down)
3)Pull lowers halfway off. Turn right way and let oil drain into oil pan.
4)Remove lowers, clean with rag. Remove seals gently (remove spring ring round seal first). Clean foam rings and seals. Soak foam rings in thick oil (float fluid or eqiv).
5)Foam rings in, seals in, spring ring on. Wipe a little float fluid on inside of seals/top bush.
6)Put uppers back into lowers. Careful to get both seals in at same time. Engage top bush only.
7)Turn fork upside down. Using syringe add oil into holes in lowers. F120s get 160ml in damper leg, 10/7wt depending on year/model. Just use 10wt unless you're super light. All F120s get 30ml 10wt in spring leg. Fox 10wt oil is Silkolene – Pro RSF 10WT. See HERE.
8)Push lowers fully onto uppers. Put the foot bolt back in (damper side first, its easier. Careful not to push the damper cart too far down whist doing this).
9)Wipe outside of forks to make sure no excess oil can attract dirt.

😀

I would shy away from the fancy mavic/dt factory wheels just for compatability, plus im not convinced with pinned rims or mavic hubs. If i had 170-200 on a set of wheels i would get an xt hubs with good rims (like 719s) with DB spokes. Should come in at ~£160, but wont look as fancy.

Thanks for that but I bought 2-step air Lyriks!

Oh dear! Hopefully you'll have a warranty…

If you change the DU (little cylinder that the bushing pivots on) as soon as you feel the slightest movement you'll get away with not having to replace the bushing every time = saves money.
Anyway, you will also need a new DU. Buy a few so you can easily replace it next time it happens.

1) Measure the bush length whilst bush still in shock.
2) Call TF/BETD/Mojo and double check before ordering.

Hope this helps!

Hammerschmidt with a mid/high singlepivot? interesting…

expand please !
The further away from the main pivot the chain pulls from the more pedal bob you'll get. So you'll get more bob in a smaller front ring than a larger front ring (hence a few frame designs like balfas bb7 or some proto oranges adding a roller around the pivot)…so hammerschmidt uses a small ring all the time, so it will have lots of pedal bob all the time.
Please correct me if im wrong!

What about the high volume air can type? – does that just screw off in the same way?

Exactly the same…it just has an additional sleeve onto of the normal air can…just leave this bit unless its leaking.

whys that then juan – what differentiates the 2 ?

Enduros have fun bits in them!

Rimstrip shouldn't make a difference once the tyre is inflated.

It does…Its much harder to burp a tyre with a rim strip than just yellow tape. So if you are heavy and ride hard try just the yellow…if you burp too much then get a rim strip.

Do lots of training (long rides) over the next few weeks, then have a weeks rest before the event.

Really easy to replace…4 of the bearings are in the link, the other 2 are the main pivot. Last pivot runs on bushes so even easier!
Best thing to do is strip the bike down (leave the bearings in) and feel if they are smooth or not. If not replace…you'll save time and money by just replacing the bearings that need replacing. You can also pop the covers off the bearings and pack in some more fresh grease.

I'll be there, looking forward to it. Looking to start a National type Enduro series UK wide in 2011, this could be the blueprint for those events.

Cracking idea steve…sign me up!

Update: I bought a pair of bolts for the rear link from Nirvana for £6, greased the bushings and screwed in the new bolts in with a touch of copperslip. No more squeaking. Happy Days!
thanks for the help
Tim

Yep, lapierres suffer from this problem from time to time. Pretty quick 5 min job to undo pivot just below the rear axle, remove bushes and clean. It gets pretty sticky and dry in there!

I wouldnt let the differences worry you, they both have advantages and disadvantages. IMO the damper changes make little real world difference.

Had a nevis jacket last year, front main zip and front pocket zip both failed within a year. Took zyro 4 months to sort it out…hence i wont be buying any more altura stuff.

Oh dear – some people are moaning about a couple of grams

Yeah…its a couple of grams heavier than an xt chainset, which is HALF the price.

am I the only one who thinks they look like a cheap pair of cranks from the 90s?
don't see the appeal

Your not the only one…

My storage/workshop…


Hidden in a little alcove just off the living room.

That's a massive over-generalisation of course. Heavy wheels will likely be better at speed, but not for accelerating. Rather depends on what you're doing on the bike.

Too true…but i cant say ive ever wanted 'heavy' wheels on my dh bike.

Lighter wheels also increase the sprung/unsprung ratio, making the suspension work better.

I've always wondered that…

If you drink 2 litres of water, do you instantly gain 2kg. Everything tells me that of course you do, because it can't go anywhere, but it just seems an odd concept!
You will gain the weight, but will also be constantly sweating it out so overall you lose most of it. Food is different unless you slip out a wee jobbie halfway through your ride.
Bike weight is a funny thing. A heavy bike with light wheels will ride better than a light bike with heavy wheels…and fast rolling tyres play a large part too.

Maybe the rim strip you have is too wide?

When were the forks last serviced…lowers and damping oil?

Just found her…
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166577
(assuming its the same for a pike as ive never stripped the damper down in a pike)

I've heard of folk modifying the moco cart to a shimmed damper over on ridemonkey. If you're into that stuff then it could be nice to play with some shims. At your weight im guessing the damper will need more damping.
The problem with pikes is its very hard to adjust the damping with the stock controls. The blue knob is hard to set at a constant setting (unlike boxxer) as it just seems to flap around or get knocked, and the gold adjustor simply sets the point at which the fork blows into the pre-set hsc circuit. You could knock up something to keep the blue dial where it should be and then tinker with the hsc circuit?
Oh and oil viscosity is an interesting one as rockshox 5wt is rebranded Torco 7wt oil. In suspension fluid it would seem not all manufactures are reading from the same page…ie viscosity shouldnt be judged by the oil wt, but by the cSt@40 value. RS 5wt has a cSt of 16…pretty light. I use silkolene pro rsf oils, so to get that i would have to mix 82% 2.5wt/18% 5wt.

Not bought those, but they'll be no different to the DUs i get from my local engineering shop. I get mine for about £9 for 10 so thats not bad value.

these kits are a joke & you are well on the way to saving for some proper ust rims with the price of them kits.

Dude he's not talking about the kits…he's talking about ghetto tubeless. And no, UST rims are not the future, stans is!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/100-X-SILVER-BRAKE-GEAR-CRIMP-INNER-WIRE-CABLE-ENDS_W0QQitemZ150418742545QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item2305a7dd11

Save your money and get a glass family size pasta Jar! If you've a power link take chain off stick it in a the jar with hot water and washing up liquid and shake, repeat a couple of times, rinse, wipe down and dry off on a radiator, lube and put back on bike.

I think the chain will last longer than the degrease route as you're not stripping the chain of all its lube inside the rollers, rather you are mostly washing of the grit and dirt. works for me
You know fairy liquid is a degreaser right? A power link can only be removed so many times before it loses its click and becomes loose, so ideally you want to leave the chain on the bike.
A clean chain is better than a lubed chain.

I use a towel and gt85. Back spin the chain in the towel to get all the shit off (and leave the chain nice and shiny) then gt85 on chain. Before i ride i add a touch of green finishline. Obviously use an old towel, not your finest egyptian cotton!
I have a chain cleaning jobby but dont find the results any better and cant be arsed with the faff…

Jeeesus 🙄

Haha, yeah this guy is class…he even has his own thread…
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/i-am-enjoying-mark-datzs-contributions-to-the-forum

Perhaps the increase in lubrication (and hence reduction in stiction) as a result of the clean and service is allowing the shock to sag more, hence there is more pressure required to prop it up?

Yep id go for that too…its like adding lots of lsc.

Maybe have a look at the new revelation. The blackbox damping is meant to be very good now, and the weight is down there with a fox 32. Not coil mind…have to say that would be my choice if i wanted a new 140mm fork…that or the '10 thor. Magura seem to have solved the diving problems of previous years.