Sparkeys tape…
Although for the price I would just get a roll of the proper stuff and have some spare…

Thats just common sense though…

Not if you think its secure…

Word of warning…
A mate recently had a bike snatched from the roof of his car. The clamp (although it locks) isnt secure and just bends out of place if pressure is applied. So dont go leaving it anywhere you wouldnt leave an unlocked bike.

And there is your problem. Fork is cold when it leaves the garage and gets chilled further on top of car…it’ll take somw time to warm her up.
I keep my bike in house and in back of car…no problems…

Err, does a tall guy really need to have more seatpost drop than a small guy? Im not so sure!

As far as I know the rev doesnt come in a 2 step version.

Just (well in april!) changed from a set of 09 36 talas to a set of rev team u-turns (with the new blackbox damping). Damping wise they arent too different now…the blackbox is a real improvement on the standard mo-co. Moral of the story, i would take either fox or rockshox…both are high maintenance and both have very good damping.

Anything good on wet mud aint gonna be fun at a trail centre. Why dont you jus use the same tyres as you do in summer? Same some money and it’ll improve you technically…

If you want pivch flat resistance why dont you try a mid weight tyre? Something like a maxxis lust?

Ive got a set of 355 and flows.

If you have problems getting a tyre to inflate (with a trackpump), then the bead on that tyre isn’t tight enough…it will come off the rim if you ride hard. Non tubeless specific beaded tyres are much easier to burp than UST ready/2bliss tyres.

Get the rims, but run a tyre that has a tubeless bead.

they're not difficult, they're not interesting, they're just horrible, and a sure sign that the trail was designed by an idiot.

That'll be every trail with good gradient that sees any decent amount of traffic then…

For me, braking bumps make a feature of many a boring section of trail centre trail…just try to pick lines around/across them…bring them on!

Oh, and god forbid should any of you get to france…you'll think their trails are poorly designed!

Unless your pretty fit or push up sections, 1×9 isnt for you. As your even thinking about leaving the granny on, i would leave it.

Haha, rob you can buy mine if you want!

For me they are not good because of the extra volume…this makes the side knobs more on the top so they dont seem to dig in whilst cornering. Just put a 2.2 purgatory on the rear and its much better, much more similar to hr/min.

Ah,
I see what your asking…i would imagine if you can run them with stans/ghetto they with ust would be fine.

Yes.
Most UST tyres dont have wire beads.

Im pretty sure you could get under an hour if you rode it all fast and didnt stop…new challenge!

If you dont keep stopping or take any of the fun extras its more like 1.5 hrs.

Surely people use bar tape on things other than drop bars (ie straight bars)…no where on the product description does it say that the tape is for road bikes.

Got a 2.3 eskar on the front run tubeless with flow rims…quite like it so far, although havent had a massive amount of time on it.

You'll notice more performance gains with a higher spec shifter than mech. I run a xtr shifter and slx mech, and it shifts every bit as good as the xtr mech before it.

The seals you have are probably combined oil and dust seals (like fox). Ive seen it in rebas before. If you didnt have an oil seal (just dust) you would have oil all over your stanction.

FAQs… 😉

Have you looked on the orange website yet? Maybe a good place to start.

First off decide whether you want FS or hardtail…

No, with the Low volume sleeve on both of them, they feel very similar.

Ah, there lies the solution…DHX airs do not come stock with a LV sleeve…it makes quite a difference.

you can use the LV or HV air cannisters on either, so spring rate isn't really an issue.

Eh, they'll feel totally different…
.
The mojo was designed around a small volume rp23 so adding a large volume shock (no matter what it is, dhx air/rp23 xv) will feel mushy.

DHX airs are well known for blowing through the mid-stroke. Stick with the rp23. Only perk is you can home service them.

Will running a double set up look gash with XT? Yes.

Have to say, this looks pretty good.

STW use the Crossmark as their Control tyre when performing tests, don't they?

Doesnt mean its a good tyre…just means the tyres are all the same…

Ok tyre but a little skittish. Had one on the rear of my xc hardtail. Fast rolling, but has poor braking grip and spins/slips alot when putting power down (in dry!).
If you ride dry hardpack with no loose marbles then they would be a very good tyre.

GT85 makes the bushings swell (if it gets inside the fork, obviously)

Not sure about that one…bushes are metal. What it will do is de-grease the fork, not the best.

My bike came with F100RLs with the FIT and the remote lockout. They were truly attrocious! Tonnes of stiction, a really noticable 'platform' in the travel and a massive plastic lockout lever. I sold them and bought the SIDs, very glad I did.

Strange as i have exactly the same fork but with the open bath damper…as smooth and controlled as my rev teams. I have heard people having troubles with the fit cart models and small bump sensitivity…

Only if it's a sealed bearing headset, NOT if it's a loose or caged ball bearing headset

Of course! Does anyone still use un-sealed headsets anymore…does anyone even sell them anymore!?

just cut a slot with a hacksaw

Yep, thats the one…no fannying about putting them on or taking them off. Point the cut forwards for less chance of crap getting in..easy!

The ones on-one have are the mountain dry2 tyres…same as the xc dry2 but bigger.
Ive had a set of xc dry2 tyres on my xc hardtail since the start of last year and i love them. Sketchy though the winter but mud tyres are cheating! Excellent in the dry, fast rolling and very predictable. Oh and i have non-UST version, inflated tubeless no problem.

Funny thing, coz i think drumlanrigs better in the wet…no pint in all those roots if they arent slippy.
Rik, get a watering can strapped to the back of your bike!

If its for trail riding hope hoops on 355s…1600g, but you wont have to worry about them so much. £275 from wheelpro.

rubbish.=not sure about that

Well lets say you do 8-10 runs per day (min), thats at least 45 runs per week of large alps style descents. How many times a week do you ride, and for how long do you batter your shock on your usual ride?
.
mildred, im not saying you cant run a shock for years without service (been there, made that mistake), but that 50ml of oil in your shock is going to be fcuked! Fresh oil will give you night and day difference.
Why spend £1000s on bikes and not keep them working properly? Its the age old thing that the oil quality dimishes slowly so you just get used to the shock in its worsening state.
Guess it depends on what matters to you, and how much you want to get out of your kit.

Ive never used rim tape, just 3 layers of sparkys tape.

If it's not been serviced for a while (if ever) then surely you want it un the best condition before you go, be a nightmare if it failed on you while you were out there. A week in the alps won't destroy the benefit if a service, but a shock failure could end up cost you loads out there (replacing or hiring a bike).

Yep second that. No point in going out there with a shock not working as well as it can…it'll take the same abuse out there as 3 months uk summer riding.