+1 for the AMS Frame Guard kits.

I do wonder where the whole e-bike thing is headed.  I am certainly pro-e-bike in terms of the concept and how they can enable (like others on this thread, I’m sure my time will come when it’s the logical choice for me), but my various thoughts are as follows:

– possible scenario of them being equated with electric motorbikes, especially when they’re de-restricted and the follow-on consequences.

– what the wider implications and knock-on effects could be for ‘normal’ bikes in terms of regulation and off-road access issues.

– as previously stated, the damage to built-trails which they can inflict.

– will we start to see e-bike bans in this country, just as I’ve already observed in some US bikeparks.

Perhaps things will work out fine, there won’t be wider negative issues and it’s just a reaction to new technologies i.e. the normal worries.  We’ll see soon enough!

I can’t even think of any shops near Cambridge which stock Yeti, let alone have a demo bike!

I’d give Silverfish (UK agent) a call.

Read more about the defecting pilot’s experiences on resettling in the US – he bought cat food in a supermarket, by mistake (as I recall) and thought it was some kind of meat paste and rated it!

There’s definitely riding to be done – it will be typical SoCal conditions: dry, dusty and rocky with fire-road climbs and nice flowing singletrack descents.  Download the TrailForks app. for more info.

Yes – pretty sure it will.  You my want to call Silverfish and check.

looks like there may be a wider issue on non-availability – this place has them in stock (allegedly) so may be worth ordering sooner rather than later!

https://www.xxcycle.com/formula-spare-part-caliper-o-ring-kit-fd40117-10,,en.php

Good luck on the fix – leaky formula brakes and faffing bleeds sent me (almost) nuts in the end and I’ve since moved on…..

This is what you need (but out of stock):

http://www.silverfish-uk.com/Products/Fd4011710_Formula-thE-ONE-thE-ONE-FR-Cal

You don’t need to remove the coloured cap and what I would do is:

1) Remove pads/zip-tie over the non-leaking piston to stop it push out

2) Pump the lever to push out the other piston

3) Remove/replace seal then re-insert the piston with plenty of the special grease which is included

I would also replace the other piston seal for piece of mind, but you’ll need to put more DOT in to the caliper in order to get the other piston pushed out.

Same here – the lower ergo dial on my new Crossmax Pro’s will now only rotate half a turn from fully closed…..  awaiting a response from Mavic direct.

Thanks for the amp advice – I was wondering on 1.5 Ah versus 3.0 and what the difference was.

One end-cap is fixed to the axle and the other is removable – slide in a small length of steel rod and at one end you’ll feel a lip of the end-cap – tap against the lip and the end-cap should gradually move off the axle and then come free.

IME no need for the special tools-I replaced all the rear bearings in my Kong rear hub using sockets as supports/press.  Just go easy and Tune also recommend to use Loctite 641 to bond the bearings in-place.  You may need the tuning shims to get the tolerances correct.  I think Hope use the same bearings so you could use those (made by INA-FAG).  I highly rate Tune hubs-now on my 2nd set of King/Kong’s.

No experience of RS or DVO, but I do have some 2018 Fox 36 Factory forx which I am VERY impressed with.  Very supple from the start and the NA2 airspring is streets ahead of the older NA airspring.  I had considered fitting a LuftKappe but after 5 days in the Alps, now see no point as they were consistently brilliant in stock-form.

Any 5mm hose will work – I’m using Hope hose with my Guides.

nickjb – Yes, Stoners post.  After riding Samoens for the day, last month, then driving on to Morzine, I never realised it was SO close, especially when you get to the top of the far lift from Les Gets where the café bar is.  Keen to finally do the ride when I return in 2019 and looks like there are taxi options to get back up.

1year on and has anybody ridden the route shown on the map in the 1st post?

Really?  I’ve always had good result, both domestic and international with MyHermes.

core – that’s it > thanks

Thanks…but done this already > the chats have gone but the user remains in the list of Active users.

You could try changing to a larger air-can volume spacer – the fact that it feels good in mid-setting reinforces this (on the Nude shock, for mid-setting the air-can volume is decreased by shutting off the secondary chamber.  I’m getting the same recommendations to add a larger volume spacer on my Spark, via a ShockWiz.

First off remove the lowers and then remove the airshaft, then check there’s not an excessive amount of grease on the air shaft (which is reducing negative chamber volume).  If it’s non-EVOL you can upgrade to the EVOL shaft to increase negative volume.  Also switch to a lighter weight oil in the lowers (such as Fox Green 10wt or Maxima Plush MX 10wt) – I found an improvement switching away from Fox Gold plus you could also increase oil volumes in the lowers by around 50%.  Also grease the wiper seals with Slick Honey before re-fitting them on to the stanchions.  All of these have had good results for me with 32’s, 34’s and 36’s.

My Park ones are great when the length of cable is in excess of approx. 20mm, but under that (ie for cutting remote cables) the cables flex and unwind (and heating the cables that close to shock etc is out of the question).  Which Knipex cutters are people using (there’s LOADS!)?

2019 airshaft removes the top-out clunk which happens from time to time, via a redesigned bumper.  It’s a warranty item if your fork is having this issue.

I’ll be interested to see what real-world users suggest, having just bought a pair of MY18 36’s.  After a few conversations over seal replacement on previous Fox forx, I’ve shunned aftermarket seals in favour of OE, but have moved away from Fox Gold 20wt in the lowers and back to 10wt oil (plus increased volumes) with seemingly good results – rational is the 10wt flows around the innards easier plus Gold gets very sticky in UK colder temps (compared to SoCal!).

In my experience you’ll be swearing a lot, without a vice…..

Akers: is it a pressfit GXP bb?

I’ve been trying to find out almost the exact same thing – I have a set of Crossmax Enduro which I wanted to re-dish 3mm to the NDS.  Finally managed to speak with Mavic UK and had an honest (ie not company-spiel) conversation with one of their techs – his reply was you could try but chances you’ll severely compromise strength/integrity of the wheels, reasons being the ultra-tight tolerances to which these wheels are built to in combo with the low spoke-count.

captmorgan – Thanks for that tip.

Fox Transfer – had mine since October 2016 with no issues, very high quality and good action.  So impressed that I replaced the Reverb on my other bike with another Transfer post.  The Reverb was becoming more temperamental, requiring more and more attention and bleeding was such a faff.

I might have a TwinLoc barrel adjuster kicking about – PM me if you still need one and I’ll have a look when I get home.

Which Fox fork are you running?

That is VERY smart (and has just fed my lust for an X Class).

Good shout – I hadn’t even thought of that!

I remove the valves every so often and immerse them in petrol – works well at dissolving the gunk.

Thanks andyrm – early reviews appear mixed but it seems CC make a change to the gimbals – hence I am wanting real feedback.  Did you install it yourself?  I did read that CC recommend to tighten the cap pre-load bolt down to much higher force than normal – can you confirm this?

Its the CC Angleset which I need feedback on, please.

Had this initially on both my XX1 11sp and then 12sp set-ups – in both cases it was it was resolved by small adjustments to the B-tension screw.  On my Eagle 12sp to resolve it I actually moved the mech just out-of-spec from what the red set-up tool guide showed was the optimum setting.

I’d opt for the Fox DPS – not sure if it’s still the case, but when I bought a brand new CTD shock which required a custom-tune, Mojo did it for only £45 as being brand new, no seals needed replacing so that could be an option for you?

Also TFT are bang-on with the advice on DT shocks – in my experience they’re nothing but trouble plus no custom tuning options.

mattbee – were you running the EXO variant?

Thanks batman11 – EXO it is then.