As I recall- with 12spd/Eagle SRAM introduced the X-Sync 2 teeth design on the chain-ring (the claw look of the teeth is apparently why they called it Eagle!) – BUT they stated at the time of launch that X-Sync 2 was backwards compatible to 11spd, so highly likely an X-Sync 1 chainring will with a 12spd chain.
Poshbikes used to be an outright ball ache to deal with on Tune parts but due to a change in circumstances around 2018, things have improved drastically. r2-bike still whacks them on price though….
At 5′ 9″ I think you need to try both M and L sizes as in my experience you’re in between sizes. Also be aware that an all-new Spark is set to be launched for MY22.
“Its basically a monarch plus” and also a DVO Topaz. There’s a few reviews out there and all good, but nothing with long-term feedback. Seems a good shock at a great price although as with other Suntour products, getting spares seems hit and miss in the UK but what I really like is that you can do a full rebuild yourself as per video below.
The Verderers do appear (and always have appeared) intent on this path and I see no changes coming any time soon. Agreed that the issue of impassable bogs seems to have got worse over the previous 5years. Out of interest do you know the general areas of where these hotspots are as having ridden the New Forest on/off (south of the A31) for over 20years, I’ve never found anything of techie interest!
As per previous post, I only created an issue when I used the wrong size (T25) torx driver. I’ve got both the latest Spark and Genius and had no issues on rounding off bolts-you just have to use the correct driver ie T30 and use a high quality torque wrench when re-assembling.
In my experience, you’ll really struggle to get the main pivot axle minus full kit. I screwed mine up when I had a ‘moment’ and used a T25 driver to undo it, having forgotten it is T30. Which is the kit you have already bought (part nr.) as I may be interested in buying it from you.
You can do the ‘mini’ service yourself without special tools but you will need a whole new seal kit as you have to replace the wiper and upper IGUS bush. At Step 8 where you remove the retainer lug from shaft-
-clamp the post in a vice
-you need a plastic tube which fits over threaded section of the shaft-end but contacts the flat end
-keep on tapping gently against the tube/shaft and gradually the you will see the wiper seal start to unseat and then become free followed by the upper IGUS bush (which will break up in the process)
– at this point sliding shaft is free to remove and you can then skip the steps until it comes to step at which the sliding shaft is re-inserted – you can push the wiper seal back in by hand
I remember Scott saying they had no plans for 27.5 models then only a month later they were showing the next year models including the new 700 series ie 27.5! There was also a photo of a Scott sponsored female rider at the start of the year with a caption to the effect of ‘testing new kit is going well’ and the area around the seat-tube was blurred-out.
A new Spark should have been released for MY21, with the unveiling at the Tokyo Olympics, but with COVID, delay of the Olympics plus production/supply issues, it is now delayed to MY22. Persistent rumours point towards a hidden rear shock just like on Bold Cycles (who Scott purchased in mid 2019).
ok….was thinking of an Edge 830 but when it comes to these discount sites etc I am a simpleton!! Can anyone tell me what is the cheapest price I can get just the 830 Edge unti for and how I get the discounts applied, please?
Update: I tried again and then found despite the message ‘firmware service unavailable’ was still displaying, you can swipe right to a new screen and then perform the firmware update.
Pretty certain Type3 is not adjustable. Type1 and early-Type2 were adjustable, then a running change introduced on Type2 with the press-fitted pin introduced which was then carried through to Type3. Unless the mech is near to replacement/retty thrashed then I wouldn’t try – I tried to dismantle an X01 with Type2/pinned and it cracked the plastic body…
One interesting theory I read is that wartime industrial middle managers had to work under massive pressure with scant resources, high output demands and with short timeframes (all coming down from Speer) – they got very good, very fast but were also young men in their 30’s……who then went on to run and lead postwar German industry and still had a good proportion of their working lives ahead of them.
Pretty sure there’s a specific M24 for the GXP and also looking at the tech instructiuons I thought I’d be able to use the Hope BB pressfit tool I have? BUT if it’s no better then I’ll stick with the SRAM BB!
Thanks. We’ve taped the letterbox and also the seller account on Depop has suddenly dissapeared. The transaction was also carried out within the app and not outside of it in any way. Depop isn’t the issue it’s the seller……
I still do some consumable/maintenance items on my car which aren’t covered by the service plan or which I want done more frequently (such as oil changes in between services) and on the last 2 cars also flushed/changed auto gear box fluid plus rear diff fluid. Working on modern cars isn’t as daunting as it may first appear with youtube and user-guides on car forums being a God-send. Running higher mileage VAG models as my first 3 cars and not wanting to pay garages made me get good at mechanics and fixing cars fast (but likewise I don’t miss laying under cars on the drive in freezing cold).
SKF do make the OE Fox seals but IME the SKF green seals outperform them (and are cheaper). They seal just as well but also seem to have slightly less stiction – I have 1 Fox fork with OE Fox seals and another Fox fork with SKF seals – when left for several days there’s a noticeable ‘pop’ as you push on Fox-seals fork but no such feeling with the SKF-seals Fox fork (to add: both serviced regularly and using Fox Gold).
It’s not suspension related so spraying lube won’t do anything – it’s either tyre noise, diff whine or a wheel bearing, all of which require some analysis with the car in-motion. I know of various garages having such a tool with microphones via leads which they place outside of the car to zero in on the noise-source, hence my idea to try and replicate. Anyway, it’s now with the garage today for investigation.
No, X-Dome is not marketing tripe – it is the tech classification for those cassettes machined from a single block of steel (which the exception of the largest cog).
Yep, as already already said above use (readily available) Motorex 7.5wt, but good luck in getting Supergliss 100K in the UK – which is why I recommended the available alternative of FLOAT fluid.
The best ever of the DT Swiss forks to my mind – simple, just keep working and you can take everything apart at home – had mine for 3years with zero issues. Anyway for the lowers – FLOAT fluid is fine in the spring side and the most readily available. For the damper (cartridge+lowers as the oil does both) I found the best to be Motorex 7.5wt – again, readily available.
Another tip-if you take apart the airspring assy. then use grease such as SlickHoney – over time oil blocks the ABS ports up, leading to harsh top-out. When you remove the airspring (which you can do from the bottom of the stanchion), take the air-spring assy. and squeeze the ABS spring to expel the oil from the foam washers.
Pretty certain it’s a private road with ROW-status for motor vehicles as when (new) landowner put locked-gates across the road in 2 places (having been told by their solicitor they owned the road), Highways made them remove the gates. Does that change anything maintenance-wise?
