I had a look at one of those last week but I'm quite a cold sleeper and the temp ratings didn't look fantastic … not for the price anyway.

Who the bloody hells Sturat 😉

John try and get hold of Flatfish (Taylor) he might be up for something.

Stuart

I use Spy ones, I've a couple of pairs of Magneto's and they've been great. Don't tend to mist up, pretty comfy and not a bad price … crc had 'em at the right money not long ago.

Cheers fellas, I knew Dia Compe did them but could remember which they were.

Stuart

Gelert Solos are alright, obviously it's cheap and to a point you get what you pay for but I can't fault mine. There's a little review thing on the WRT blog (link up there ^).

They seem to stand upto most things weather wise, perhaps a little draughty in high wind but otherwise very good,

Stuart

Chew you might find some of this of interest

http://welshridething.blogspot.com/

or you might not 😉

Stuart

I'd take a look at a saddlebag from http://www.carradice.co.uk

The Barley is plenty big enough for day rides. They're made in the UK and last forever 😉

Stuart

Ah, sorry about that. There must be someone else on here with a simular name to yours over in Mach'.

Stuart

Dan, get a train to Machynlleth and I'll pick you up / drop you off 😉

http://www.forestfreeride.co.uk

Cheers
Stuart

Pixelmix you're not far from me (I'm in Pennant). GF has a 14" Summer Season, you're more than welcome to pop over and throw a leg over it, etc.

Email stuart@forestfreeride.co.uk if you want to come across.

Cheers
Stuart

To echo whats already been said … let the instructor decide what level you're at. We have to advertise certain courses as beginner, etc but in reality the course may turn out to be something more advanced or vice versa. The only real yardstick you have to judge your riding by, is those you ride with … if they're good chances are you'll be better than you imagine but it can easily work the other way round. 😉

Stuart

Go over to mtbwales.com and have a look … joe's backyard might fit the bill. To be honest, if you get a map out and either head south or north of Mach' you'll find something worth riding. If you fancy something a bit remote feeling ride over to NYA past Nant y Moch.

Aye, the SMBLA course book should have a full list in it. Stevomcd is pretty much bang on, however don't forget food for you and clients, doesn't have to be much but something. A whistle would also be worth sticking in, as would a spare pair of gloves.

Stuart

You don't live in the mountains do you Jamie? 😉

PS. It's Nant Yr Arian, not Nant Y Arian 😉

If the weathers like it is today then Nant will be fantastic … the suns even warm!

Stuart

Might be of interest

http://welshridething.blogspot.com/

Stuart

Got your email Tony and replied … I'll send it again from a different account, must have got lost. Let me know if it comes through.

stuart

Tony, the GF has one on her bike as following a hip operation she has to spin everything / everywhere. Rear mech is a std deore, just enough clearance. I reckon it'd be great on a 1×9 29er.

Stuart

No snow in Mach' but there was a bit on the tops yesterday … not enough to stop a ride though. Met office have said heavy snow Wed night but that could change,

Stuart

You're going to struggle I'm afraid … the area isn't known for posh hotels offering spa treatments. A thought might be the Bryn Afon just outside Rhayader, Tel 01597 810735. It's a converted victorian workhouse pretty much next door to the kite feeding station.

Stuart

Cheers fellas … bloody browsers!

I'll address the problems tonight.

Stuart

I've thought about putting something together along the same lines using an Inbred 29er. Bloke I know has a 2008 Sutra and loves it.

Welsh Ride Thing at the end of May … 3 days riding, 2 nights under the stars and it's all for a good cause. If you (or anyone) would like some details email stuart@forestfreeride.co.uk and I'll send some over.

Entry cut off is end of March.

Cheers
Stuart

Go and have a look at http://www.charliethebikemonger.co.uk it'll explain everything. Charlie will also sell you a kit containing all you need for the conversion to perversion.

32-16 means you're running a 32 tooth front ring and a 16 tooth on the back. It's the normal default singlespeed gear ratio. No real idea what your LBS would charge but I can't see it costing much – 2 hours labour max?

If you live somewhere hilly or haven't been riding that long you might consider running 32-18, it'll give your legs an easier time. It sounds like the gear you've been trying will be quite a lot easier than the usual SS ratio.

Stuart

I'm not saying 'run it cold' … it's not a bath. Just consider getting something with a little extra capacity. A well designed stove will still burn efficiently even when you've closed some of its air feed, that's what it's designed to do otherwise we'd all just have open fires. The thing will still get hot enough to burn off any initial condensation that forms within the flu or the fire itself … it only requires 100 degrees.

Your choice of fuel will have a big effect on how much soot build up you get and also how long the stove lasts before it 'burns out'.

Wouldn't it be nice to have the option of more heat?

If the calculations say you need a 5kw stove that stove will produce 5kw when it's roaring. Instead, if you fit an 8kw stove it'll be producing nearer your required 5kw even when you've nipped out and it's died down.

You can light a small fire in a big box but not the other way round. If it's primary function is that of asthetics and it'll just back up the CH then it won't really matter 😉

Yes, bigger stoves do tend to cost more though.

Didn't they have any smaller ones? 😉

I fitted an EVA stove for my mum a couple of months ago. All was fine at first then then after a couple of weeks the thing started to smoke. To cut a long story short, I had to remove the baffle plate just below the flu pipe and make the air holes bigger in the stove top plate, after that it was fine.

The thing was that resticted that as soon as you got even a very light build up of soot it wouldn't burn / draw.

I'd also ignore the whole, what size for my room thing. Fit the biggest one you can (obviously it still has to look right) the output figures for all stoves are maximums. It won't be running at full that often, most of the time you'll find you're nearer half the stated output.

I'm not saying don't buy an EVA, it's very solid and well built but you might want to modify a few things before you fit it.

Stuart

Glad it went off well, was hoping to make it but …

I've a couple of Outdoor designs ones, can't fault them and certainly cheaper than Terra Nova stuff.

Might as well get a 4 man one while you're doing.

Stuart

I like my Edinburgh Bikes one … had it off road and apart from seeming to cause a little understeer works fine.

Stuart

Built the GF a 14" SS up last year. She's a bit taller than your lady (5'5") but there's lots of standover. She runs a 60mm 456 stem and 2" rise bars. It's not the lightest build in the world but still sub 28lb, just.

With 100mm forks the HA comes out at 68 degrees (unsagged). I always thought that was the idea behind the SS … slack head angle with short forks, so I can't understand why everyone keeps sticking 130mm+ forks on 'em – that's what a 'normal' 456 is for.

Hope that helps

Stuart

Apart from buying a number of maps which to be honest you'll need anyway, your best bet would be to get a copy of the Sarn Helen route guide http://www.mbruk.co.uk by Tim Woodcock

It's 270 miles, some of which is pretty hard going, 4 days will be quite a ride. The guide suggests 8 days ranging from 4.5 – 7 hours, so expect some big days if you're looking to half it.

Good luck

Stuart

Don't go to Rhayader … you wouldn't like it, nothing to ride there of any interest 😉

Just use an Inbred frame.

"preload the forks" … if you're looking to use the rebound from compressing the forks there's no need 😉

Stuart

Aye that's right JON … think of it as, trying to hold the front wheel in the air for long enough to allow the rear wheel to leave the edge and join it, then put both wheels on the ground at the same time.

Pulling up on the bars will often result in more weight over the front as you'll lean forward (bent elbows) as you try to pull up, obviously this makes the front more inclined to drop.

Stuart

I've got some on a SS CX and they give me no problems.