One of my riding buddies had to warranty one of his Tech 4s

Just ordered a set, needed some new brakes for the hardtail for over a year, cheers dude

CC recently made the service manuals available to the public but I’ve no idea what you need in terms of special tools etc.

Its literally been that price since black friday

I ride every Sunday around Calderdale, Kirklees, Peaks, Saddleworth, I have a couple of mates that regularly ride too.

The big group that we’re in is gradually fizzling out with very few people riding, so I was going to post a thread too aging exactly the same thing as you.

Send us a PM if you fancy a ride, we went out around Copley, Elland etc today.

Thick helicopter tape, it’s the only way, and you’ll still get scratches, it’ll look crap but so will scratches so just accept it unfortunately.

I just use an Allen key, I have a pad spacer tool but it is worse to use, making sure the pistons are properly lubricated makes the biggest difference, they move dead easily when they’re lubed.

Edit: ah, I thought you meant to push them back in. I’ve looked at that tool now and again I don’t know why you’d need it, just use a flat blades screwdriver to push on the back of the brake pad opposite to the piston(s) you want to push back in, like the ‘centralising pistons’ Hope video. They move dead easily iif they’re lubed up and clean.

32tpi blade at least, lots of guides on YouTube… Obvious stuff like use a saw guide, file the burs so if there are any carbon fibres splitting away you don’t make them worse.

I just cleaned my bike

FIT 4 ewwwww

Shorty or Hillbilly front, DHR or Butcher rear.

A new tyre with wide spacing will generally feel great in thick/soft mud. Riding style and bike setup will also go a long way.

Are you honestly asking a bike forum this question? Go to see your GP, is it really worth risking?

Blister podcast have a great 1 hour interview with a designer at hope that goes into all the little differences between tech 3 and 4, explains why that piston doesn’t fit!

Lucas oil thick and tacky marine grease, red stuff, it’s thick and tacky obviously but has never caused issues on hope pro rear hubs.

Yep big increase in power, thanks to the swinglink.

Yes I have

I don’t understand how this is a bargain? They’ve been at that price or less for ages

Doesn’t matter.

The new one only came out this year I think so I doubt it any time soon, 2 years maybe?

172cm tall here, 30″ inseam, riding a Stumpjumper Evo alloy 2022 set up mullet, it’s a good all-rounder, had 5010s and Blur TRC for 9 years prior and the Stumpy is more capable and more versatile.

Big one up, had a lezyne mini track but hated it.

Try stretching the insert a bit, put your foot on it on the ground and work around it pulling up, just be careful you don’t pull it in half as they’re usually glued together I think.

That is wicked. What a time to be alive

Only non boost left though, so hardly the deal of the century.

No you need the complete master cylinder

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-code-rsc-g2-eu-brake-lever/136634156/p?queryID=40fd7c814cbb97cb679dcc10a3f36159&buscador_search&_gl=1*1qjgx8c*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkcD3me48PBMtHkag0fHt6FX2Xn2Vwe6SI38VdZIzsdAVSbTYeoTAtRoCFPUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

£150 ish for me to buy the levers from a German store I think.

Yep, I’ve just done the same, the RSC is a big improvement. However your still need to make sure the disc is centered and each piston is working evenly, this has a massive effect and made my Rs go from nl feeling naff to absolutely fine (with new ish pads)

I have a Fatbar Lite at 760 and a Fatbar carbon cut to 750, to me there’s absolutely no difference in feel, the carbon is just a bit lighter if you’re bothered about that.

I have the carbons sat in a box and can’t be bothered swapping them back.

Caved, literally fitted a warranty gx mech today, haven’t ridden it yet, but bikes are cool, and electronic shifting is cool, so **** it 😂

Cheers

Some sort of FORK?

Signed

Just continue the ride and fix it (properly) when home.

You’d be better using some of the £9 to buy a couple of spare spokes (or more if you have a different length for drive/non drive side) and make a note of them so you can easily replace them when you break one.

ERrrrrr I think maxxis are too rich for me if this is considered a PSA :D

Isn’t a 25mm internal considered to be stronger than a wider rim?

I’ve just got the alloy stumpy Evo, first ride was yesterday, it’s great, don’t get the carbon one, the downtube is literally egg shell thin and it cracks at the first sight of a rock.

The comp wheels are heavy, rear was 3181, changing to a GX cassette, XD freehub and tubeless saved me 373g, rear is now 2818 even with a standard rimpact installed.

Check out downtime podcast, they did a comparison of all 3 Spectral wheelsizes in a recent episode.

Jungle (SC UK) are always a pleasure to deal with, they’ve sent out little bits of hardware without even asking to see my invoice, free bearings is a real thing too 😁

I’ve had to use the warranty before and it was a very easy turnaround.

Enjoy your Decathlon all mountains whilst they last, I really loved mine (great fit) and used them once max twice a week for about 4 months before a little hole wore through in the bum, this was a mixture of sat down road miles and normal trail riding.

It’s a shame, but comforting to see other people also think they’re paper thin.

THREAD HIJACK!! Does anyone have a recommendation of a similar fitting trouser but that’s much harder wearing?

Specialized please bring the frame only option to the UK!