That is a really nice looking bike there, the white, chrome badge, stem and bar really go together well.

Stubbing stem? I have a silver one and a carbon bar on my Stumpjumper and really like them, for the money those stubbing stems were a steal.

Very hard to pick one, but mine is Cutgate from the Cairn back to Langsett.

It’s rougher than it used to be, but when it’s dry it’s proper satisfying when you find some flow through all the rocky stream crossings.

It’s one of the first trails I was shown as a beginner and it’s still my fave.

Yep, first time last year, loved it

Cheers guys, things may be getting expensive soon 😂

I have to do mine about once a month-6 weeks, using silicone grease (plumbers grease) the stuff Hope recommend.

It’s a pain in the arse but quite quick with one of the little bleed blocks with a side removed so you can do 1 piston at a time, and everyone says “oh **** your codes feel nice” when they’ve been done so …

Same size chainstay on all sizes, would be interesting to ride the small that has a 10mm shorter reach than chainstay length…

I rode some variety of now 5010 as my only bike from 2012-2021, had 2 Blur TRcs, gen 1 5010 for 3 years, gen 2 5010 for 3 years or thereabouts.

Now have a 150/160mm Stumpjumper Evo setup mullet, absolutely love it.

However I’d happily ride the current 5010, if I could swap my Stumpy for one now at no cost then I probably would, not because there’s anything wrong with the Stumpy, but the combination of short stays, low BB, moderately slack head angle, travel, and ground up mixed wheel design on the 5010 is a proper receipe for fun.

The Stumpy is more versatile and a better allrounder, similar to a Hightower. It just depends what you fancy. Some days you want to eat some fruit, veg and meat, balanced diet, get the job done, other days you have an itch only a curry will scratch, even though you know you may well pay for it the day after, you still make the ‘wrong’ choice because it’s boring doing the sensible thing all the time.

Chromag Darko and the new Scor bike reviewed by Pinkbike yesterday are both very similar to the 5010, on paper they don’t make sense, but on most trails (and certainly those around Kirklees, Calderdale, Sheffield) these short travel bikes are a riot.

(plus if like me you pretend you’re not competitive or have an ego then it’s extremely satisfying pumping the shit out of a roller or boosting over a load of rocks to overake your mate on his big enduro bike)

Isn’t asking for advice on this a bit like putting the cart before the horse?

If you’re going to be bored then why do it? Just do a shorter ride, or do a longer ride so all you want to do when you’ve reached camp is go to sleep.

Oh whoops, I’d forgotten they’d gone full circle with the names lol confusing

Used to have the carbon one, ace bike, very dated now I obviously, and the pivots crack from coming unbounded from the carbon. The alloy one should be fine.

That looks ace for the money, I have a motorbike wheel building stand and 2 magnetic bases with dial indicators but even those are a faff to set up and move around compared to that AliExpress one.

That’s actually really cool

Butcher is good on the rear, Ive used them with a hillbilly front both in black diamond guise and they roll fast, have decent grip, I’m using a dhr 2 max terra DD at the moment on the rear which is very similar rolling and cornering.

Looking forward to trying a cannibal.

My TTX22 has been reliable in the 8 months I’ve used it so far. I bought it cos it’s one of the few shocks approved for the Stumpy Evo.

The custom tunes that Ohlins offer are one of the main selling points, so buying one from a good service center is essential, they should tell you if there is a good tune available for your Giant.

If I were you I’d get a CCDB, the tuning range is so wide you should be able to get it to ride how you want.

Stoodley pike sheep track is probably the longest in the area.

Thok me it’s a bicycle!

The ‘go faster’ thing isn’t the only reason, I swap from mullet to full 29er every couple of weeks and on some peaks routes where you’re riding on the armoured paths like the one that connects the top of jacob’s ladder over to cavedale you can definitely save a lot of energy with 29er, all those little square edges and holes definitely get muted with the bigger wheels, that adds up over a ride and I definitely feel it in the legs (and arse) more after 5 hours on the little wheel.

Bernard Kerr actually spoke some sense in his recent pinkbike podcast where he said something along the lines of (paraphrasing): “When I’m racing I want to go as fast as possible, when I’m riding I want to be having as much fun as possible.”

If to you a 27.5″ wheeled bike makes riding more fun then go for it, I have a 29er/mullet now after riding short travel 27.5 for years beforehand (5010) and the current bike is still fun but there are trails where I know I’d be having more fun on the 5010.

It’s interesting that basically all the EDR racers are on full 29er despite some being on mullet last year, even shorter riders like Jesse Melamed, Katy Winton and Isabeau C.

Stumpy Evo has geo adjustments which I mentioned, that takes up the difference, I measured before and after so 🤷‍♂️

My bike (stumpy evo alloy) feels loads faster in a straight line on rough stuff on 29, but I only have a 30″ inseam so can easily buzz my bum when manualling or getting over the back, therefore I’m more confident on mullet, and therefore probably faster.

For some rides I leave my bike in the mullet setting but put the geo in the lowest slackest position and just throw the 29 wheel back on, this lifts the BB 6mm which is great for some of the pedally moorland rocky trails around the peaks.

Only one way to find out is try it, this video is a good summary of the differences:

I’ve been through the same process of 35, 40, 45, they’re all fine, non of them feel lethal, 35 is fun and makes the bike easy to manual, charge on steep stuff, 45 feels nice and planted like you can just stand up in the middle of the bike and let the bike do it’s thing.

I find more difference in stem height, for steeper tracks around Hebden I like the stem a bit higher, for flatter flowier trails it’s nice to drop it down a bit so you can weight both wheels easily for flat corners.

Get a shock that you can fit spherical bearings in, ohlins Ttx here, works great.

Yeah it was very dusty, I majorly locked up at the end of the fireroad on stage 5, swapped to Shorty for the race run which helped in the dust and loam.

He was on a red Trek, right? That was properly VitalRaw worthy!!!

First time going (and first Enduro) for me, excellent event! Ran really well, shame the bogs got emptied around 8am on race day causing pretty big queue.

Really good loop and the 5 stages were all ace fun, I did actually train for the event (only from beginning of March mind!) as an incentive to get fitter so happy to reach goal of finishing in top half of U40, picked up a quad strain in the week leading up to event meant I got cramp on practise day which meant whenever I sprinted on race day the cramp was coming in again, frustrating! But that’s life.

Yep! First time

I’ve only watched video 1 & 2 but when watching them at 0.5 speed you can see that you’re unweighting (popping up) whilst your front wheel is only half way up the takeoff, for maximum height / to get the most from the lip you should be doing this when your front wheel is cresting the takeoff.

Had the same thing with my formula r0, just sand them.

Only size 8 left now! https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-15-off-five-ten-shoes/

The park tool socket set is not cheap at £45ish quid but it’s a very nice shiny set and you’ll have every size you need (probably…) I needed a socket in a pinch so ponied up for on on amaz0n prime and I’m glad I bought it now.

I’ve also had no problems with the cheapos from epic bleed solutions, but hey ho..

If you’re not too picky then the women’s version of the pro has been as low as £44 recently.

I think it looks fine 🤷‍♂️ of you already like their bikes then the addition of a bottle and storage seems like a win win.

I’ve ridden Blur TRc and then 2 generations of 5010 since about 2013, replaced with a Stumpjumper Evo alloy last year, great bike, set up mullet for steeper trails but I also swap it back to 29 for other rides. The carbon is a lot lighter but I don’t care about the weight.

It’s fine on an ebike but even despite the much needed armouring on bog of doom there’s still lots of peat near the cairn, best wait until it’s dry or else it’ll get ripped to shreds.

Something to wipe your bum with.

Although going by your question you’re probably not sure how to do that either.

OOOHH ZING!! :D

Blister podcast have a pretty interesting interview with a SRAM employee that mentions the Transmission shifter software/firmware (whatever) is designed to shift the mech by different amounts as the mech knows which gear you’re in on the cassette, it needs this due to all the shift ramps built into the new cassette.

I’d be surprised if the old AXS stuff would shift well with the new cassette as presumably the indexing is specific to all the new machining on the new cassette.

I’ve not been put off yet, they’re on my birthday list for the wife 😂 just gotta wait until April

Yeah I don’t see why not, I put mine in my drill which really sped up the process, so don’t see why you can’t put it in a hex bit of some kind.

However the proper T-Handle one makes it easier to keep track of how much you’ve turned the wrench though, if it’s the first set of wheels you’re building then to bring the spokes up to tension evenly and keep the rim true it’s important to know 1) how much you’re turning the wrench (1/4 of a turn, 1/2 a turn etc) and 2) you repeat the process on every spoke.