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  • UCI Confirms 2025 MTB World Series Changes
  • stevede
    Free Member

    Missed the crucial line at the bottom of your post Hannah! Apologies!

    13
    stevede
    Free Member

    Over the winter we did a trip up to Triscombe, about a 4hr drive on a good run for me. 3 runs in and the ebike died. On the walk of shame back to the top car park I got chatting to a couple of locals who were pedalling up. When I got back to the car park one of the chaps promptly handed me his canyon spectral, saying they were done for the day and he lived a junction down the M5 so just to drop it in on the way home! Couldn’t believe it. Had to practically force him to take my ebike for a bit of peace of mind that I wouldn’t steal his bike! Got him some beers and headed to his, not only did he save my ride but when we exchanged bikes I realised he had washed my bike for me. What a legend. Hopefully karma is repaid in spades for him.

    stevede
    Free Member

    If you’re not excited by the prospect of an ebike get the dh bike. Especially if you head to the alps every year and get some uplift weekends in. You already have decent bikes for the regular riding I imagine. I managed just fine in the alps on my 180/160 enduro bike, and I manage just fine at dyfi etc on it, but if I could afford an extra bike I’d absolutely love a dh bike for that kind of riding, something like the new V10 or maybe one of the RAAW dh bikes. I have a full fat kenevo, it does a job when I’m time poor, knackered from the gym or out with mates on theirs…..but I much prefer riding my regular bike.

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    stevede
    Free Member

    Haha yeah I probably should’ve gone with recommending something I’ve read is decent rather than first hand experience of something I have owned for a while and ridden in the alps!!! Any modern enduro bike should be decent I reckon, geometry is pretty sorted these days. I will add that the O-Chain has been a fantastic addition to my bike for rougher tracks, apologies for recommending something else that I own and use :-)

    stevede
    Free Member

    I did my alps trip this summer on a MK1 Privateer 161, coil shock, 180 zebs, sturdy build. The bike was great, a very injured hand and wrist meant I was wishing for a big dh fork in the braking bumps but other than that the bike was plenty.

    stevede
    Free Member

    I have one on my Privateer 161, I’ve been running it for around 12 months now. Mine is the older version O ChainR that’s  externally adjustable with a dial. I do change it between minimum float (4 deg) on my local jumpy stuff to 9 or 12 degrees for chunkier stuff. Ran it at 9 deg the entire time out in the alps. Haven’t serviced mine yet, probably due one. Honestly see no drawbacks at all, great bit of kit. You can run any 104 bcd chainring, I have a raceface ring on mine currently.

    stevede
    Free Member

    Second what bikerevivesheffield said. I have 3 x pro 4 and 1 x pro 2 freehub running the cable ties as springs. What started as a ride saving bodge has over the years turned into my first strip down upgrade when the stock springs have inevitably disintegrated.

    stevede
    Free Member

    As above I’m a big fan of the spesh 2fo dh’s which I have on rotation with a set of Fox Unions. Rate both highly, both dry out pretty fast and neither act like sponges when wet. Spesh can normally be had a bit cheaper and I suspect they’ll outlast the fox shoes. Previously exclusively a 5.10 impacts fan. Got a set of ride concepts cheap a while back, grip isn’t comparable with any of the above and they have ended up as my dirt jumping shoes where I don’t want that high level of grip.

    stevede
    Free Member

    All the old Fives used to run a 190 x 50 shock. I can’t imagine the 14” ran a different size.

    stevede
    Free Member

    How about this:

    https://www.privateerbikes.com/collections/home-page-featured/products/privateer-dj101-full-bike

    looks decent enough for the £££. I have an octane one zircus frame I got cheap off crc last year built up with some lowered 36’s and some old 721’s on pro 2’s, does me just fine. As long as it’s vaguely the right shape and the fork isn’t too cheap and nasty you generally can’t go too far wrong. 

    stevede
    Free Member

    If it ain’t raining it ain’t training :-) I love riding (off-road) in the challenging conditions that winter brings, just got to change the mindset and go for it. I ditched Strava years ago so no clue on metrics – just if it made me smile or not, just go out and get loose, it’s still fun in the wet. Decent winter tyres and a radiator and shoe drier in my shed help make life infinitely more bearable this time of year.
    If it’s windy it’s a woods day, if the wind is down we have a nice local old mining area with plenty of nice jump lines that takes the rain really well, ride and dig in equal measures there at the minute.
    The clean up is a pain but it makes you appreciate those dry days that bit more. We had a great June and a bit of Sept. Hopefully the bit in between will be a bit drier and less windy next year!

    stevede
    Free Member

    OP what size are you? If XL then wiggle/crc still have some massive discounts on the Vitus Sommet and Escarpe. If not then as mentioned above, have a look on Pinkbike or the classifieds on here. It’s definitely a buyers market at the minute, 2k should open up plenty of options.
    What year Rallon was it vs the 2018 enduro?

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    @joebristol no pedalling is done on my Sentinel these days. It’s an uplift at dirt farm or a push up at the local kinda bike.
    Red coil will tie the red theme in, especially as you have plenty of grams to spare with the carbon frame! Looks pretty sweet as is imo though, much prefer a stealthy build. Fingers crossed silverfish come good for you, I have a mate who works there so should really call a favour in and at least keep mine as a spare.

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    Looks really nice, definitely swap the X2 out for the CCDB, my X2 shat itself on my Privateer today, lasted about 6 months, was a nice performing shock when the fluid was on the inside, not so nice when it was all over the outside! Had a few ccdb’s back in the early days, great shocks.
    Couldn’t part with my old V1 sent, so I built it back up over the summer as a singlespeed, mullet, pikes, no dropper etc mess around bike.

    stevede
    Free Member

    Gore everyday vest is nice and fitted, not spray on but not at all baggy. Great bit of kit. Not the cheapest but i wear mine loads for riding and running. https://www.gorewear.com/en-uk/everyday-vest-mens-100997?variant=13874&xcmp=Paid_Shopping_Google-Ads_UK_13874&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1MCrBhAoEiwAC2d64ZfDiLJd5ibXSusTNxqMrl06quYDuzcQQq9JozXcVj1g7fqyVFi3GRoCWIQQAvD_BwE

    stevede
    Free Member

    Same as hairyscary- I’ve had a few sets of mallet dh’s over the years, still believe they are the best but I was sick of replacing the soft brass cleats. Killed axles, springs, bodies. When I found a set of horizon dh on sale for decent money I took a punt, fairly shimano esque in the engagement and release. They’re not quite up there with the mallets but good enough that I’ve got them on a couple of bikes now. If I had an endless supply of free spares I would look no further than mallets. But as I’m mediocre on a bike and poor, I’ll stick with my horizons. 

    stevede
    Free Member

    This would help the geometry if you’re keeping the fork at 140mm https://reverse-components.com/en/products/05%C2%B0-angle-spacer-tapered-forks 140mm front and a shorter stroke shock to give you 127mm would be pretty balanced and that reverse components spacer would bring the geometry back closer to where it should be with a longer fork.

    stevede
    Free Member

    My 2nd hand kenevo came with tech 3 e4’s, as I had t4 v4 and t3 v4 on the other 2 bikes I wasn’t that impressed with the t3 e4’s, especially on a heavy eeb even after fitting 220 rotors. Replaced the levers with tech 4’s and they are night and day better. Not many places carry them stock so you may have to wait a few weeks to get some of ordered in.

    stevede
    Free Member

    Tech 4 V4’s for 12 months, haven’t skipped a beat. For balance my mate has really struggled to get a consistent bleed on his. He has the bike wheels off in his car a lot – I think the big thread had a few that did this that were also having issues. I also put tech 4 levers on my E4’s on the eeb a few months ago and they were a massive upgrade in performance and power over the tech 3’s.

    stevede
    Free Member

    No, you missed the first 3 words of that when you quoted. Not fully waterproof. I couldn’t be bothered making a separate thread, I just thought I’d share a good deal on what looks to me to be a decent winter option. To me it does look like a good winter option. Fully waterproof jackets are only really good for me when it’s pouring with rain and freezing (I live in Cornwall so fairly mild), any other time a soft shell style jacket works better. Any jacket for a U.K. winter is a compromise one way or another.

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    Get in – 25% now!!! Went too soon, still a bargain! They just sent me a code for £50 off £200 spend on full price if anyone is looking at the Endure jacket. THANKYOU50 valid until 1st Oct. Not sure if it’s linked to my account but worth a punt if you’re buying anyway.

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    Not fully waterproof but this Gore Lupra goretex infinium jacket looks like a decent winter option https://www.gorewear.com/en-uk/lupra-jacket-mens-100853, with the sale and the 20EXTRA code it gives you almost £100 off rrp bringing it down to £91. All colours and most sizes across the board. I’ve just taken a punt on one.

    stevede
    Free Member

    I took one off my second hand bike doing exactly the same as yours OP, i unwound the collar and lubed it which helped it for a ride or two and then it was back to being sticky. I had a spare old one up v1 in the shed so I replaced it, when I did the outer was pretty knackered which can’t have been helping. Reckon mine needed a service though – not sure how easy it is compared to a one up which are a piece of cake. Hopefully similar.

    2
    stevede
    Free Member

    There’s plenty in the middle of the woods to have a play on and session. Anything with doubles is pretty obvious and you can ride around most of it. The steeper tracks are off the top, Rossers tracks and Welsh Gold, Black Gold etc – not crazy steep but could catch you out. And Scary Mary would be uncomfortable if you’re not happy on rocky trails. It’s well worth a look up there if you’ve made the trip out. I rode there for the first time in June and I’ve already made the trip back another couple of times from west Cornwall, one of my favourite spots for sure.

    stevede
    Free Member
    stevede
    Free Member

    Yeah I’ve had a deore 12 speed mech and a sram 10-52t combo for over a year, no issues dealing with the extra 1 tooth.

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    Fortus 30 is a stronger heavier rim than the 35 which is probably why it defaults to that option. Fortus 30 on Pro 4’s on all 3 of my bikes, all have taken a hell of a beating, only weak point are the springs in the freehub which are easily replaceable. No experience on Pro 5’s on the rear. I have a Pro 5 front on the eeb but a front hub is only a shell and 2 bearings so you can’t really mess that up!

    1
    stevede
    Free Member

    Ball over the foot is an xc/roadie setup imo. For dh, steep tech (enduro if you like) etc riding with the pedal axle on the balls of your feet is horrendous, feels like you’re riding on your tip toes. Riding with the cleat more mid foot allows you to load the bike better, yes you lose a bit of efficiency but it’s way better for pushing the bike into the ground when riding tech. All subjective of course…..but I am right 😂

    stevede
    Free Member

    Nothing will get you into a proper flat pedal mid foot but most of the newer shoes are now good for getting the cleats way back from xc ball of the foot position. Crank bros, specialized 2fo, 5.10 hellcat. I use these from Ride Concepts https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Ride-Concepts-Transition-MTB-Shoes_215458.htm?sku=678315&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Clothing%20%3E%20Shoes%20%3E%20MTB%20shoes&utm_content=Ride+Concepts&gclid=CjwKCAjw44mlBhAQEiwAqP3eVrI7XCFdIKVY69tS7cPehegyJa-BLQTu2oEXNlsM5PK4PnzCWBd06BoC-sIQAvD_BwE not a bad price if they have your size.
    Pedal wise, I’m loathed to recommend but…..crank bros mallet dh are unbeatable, the brass cleats are a stupid move and they need regular servicing/bushing & bearing changes but they are the best by far, you don’t have to be as precise clipping back in, if you don’t find the perfect position you can ride it out until it bounces you in. Top tip if you get a set – wind the pins down so they are almost flush with the body, otherwise with a grippy shoe you will struggle to unclip. I got sick of replacing cleats (my local push up spot just wore them down too quick) and I had a bad run of a bent axle, then a body, then a spring, then they needed a service etc etc (not all at the same time….) so I moved to some nukeproof horizons which are still decent and have a good platform but are very much like shimano in the clipping in and out sense – as in you need to be precise. Hopes look very much the same as my nukeproofs.
    I regularly go from clips to flats and back across various bikes, both feel very natural and once you get used to clips they can be great in the choppy stuff, I find they make me ride more committed and feet up as well. Flats for fun, clips for racing for me.

    stevede
    Free Member

    As for gap jumps – I went with a few mates who aren’t really senders and they managed to ride around everything they didn’t fancy without any issue or loss of flow. There is nothing on the hill that is massive, most gaps are just a cheeky pull, one or two bike lengths in size and easy at trail speed. The new drop on welsh gold is pretty obvious and you can ride around it if you don’t fancy a head nodding drop to flat :-) it is fun though.

    stevede
    Free Member

    Yeah as above mate, there is the long way around following the fireroad up and around the back which is a steady pedal and then there’s the bridleway that crosses rossers which you can push up (or ride on an eeb), to get to the bottom of the bridleway you cut into the bottom of the woods straight on as the fireroad goes round to the left, it a few track endings in on the left. The bridleway literally brings you out at the top of Welsh gold, with black gold being in close proximity and rossers tracks being down the fireroad a bit – Rosser 1 has a sign for it nailed to a tree just off the fireroad.

    2
    stevede
    Free Member

    They were aiming for 5k originally, 6k takes it too far beyond the Vitus equivalent to be worth a punt imo. Same as with the Vitus though, Shimano motor is a deal breaker. Every brand of motor is unreliable but I hate the fact that the Shimano cannot be repaired or spares sourced, making the motor landfill out of warranty which is piss poor.
    I have a 161, a Bosch powered E-161 would’ve been ace…..not that I can afford one regardless of motor 😂

    stevede
    Free Member

    I was there the other week mate, it’s really really good, you’ll love it. It’s fairly easy to follow your nose and ask the locals, there are trails everywhere on the hill.
    Trails not to be missed:

    Welsh gold

    black gold

    rosser 1

    rosser 2

    Dark passage

    Scary Mary

    I’m sure there are loads of others that I rode that were awesome, some lead into others. Those above are just the ones I remember that were decent. Steep, tech – the locals have done a superb job.

    stevede
    Free Member

    That Ohlins 141 is lovely sharkattack, absolute bargain as well. I’m on a 161 that I built up second hand, solid bikes. Was expecting a revision of the existing frames, maybe a mullet linkage or flip chips and the UDH rear end. This is a fair bit different. Very happy with my V1 so won’t be a change for me, hope they stay true to the Privateer branding though and don’t go the way transition have from decent dependable good value aluminium frames to Santa Cruz/Yeti levels of boutique pricing!

    stevede
    Free Member

    I run both my Privateer 161 and kenevo mullet. 161 should be full 29, kenevo should be full 27.5. I have no doubt full 29 would be faster on chunkier stuff, not so sure in tight twisty steep tech. Either way I find mullet to be way more fun to ride than full 29. And then on the kenevo running a 29 fork and wheel just gives it that bit more rollover and grip whilst maintaining the nimbleness in the turns with the 27.5 rear.

    stevede
    Free Member

    Thanks for the reply lcj, yeah the parking was on the side of the road squeezed in a layby if you were lucky! Hindhead/devils punchbowl sounds like a good shout. QECP again a long time since I’ve been, the stuff out the back was better than the stuff in the park, but wasn’t bowled over by any of it, i may have a look see what’s changed.
    Cheers again 👍🏼

    Oh and Southampton bike park….good for an hour on the dj bike?

    stevede
    Free Member

    My first mtb was a Peugeot Tim Gould replica in the early 90’s, second hand from the local bike shop in Whitworth, bloody loved that thing, was far better riding over the moors than the racer it replaced! Saw one chained up to a lamppost, sans wheels, and rusted to death in Bristol about ten years back which made me sad!

    stevede
    Free Member

    Yeah I had a super deluxe ultimate (previous model) on my V1 Sentinel with CC link. Way better than the dpx 2 it replaced.

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