Some good suggestions here thanks all.

Just bought the dark peak book and will drop you a message @tall_martin

One thing I’ve noticed when plugging these routes into online mapping services is the different amounts of ascent given by them. For the Mary Townley Loop using the same gpx file i get

elevation gain =
Strava – 2,038m
Komoot – 1,640m
RideWithGPS – 1,496m

Which one to trust? Perhaps RideWithGPS before the attempt and (if successful) Strava afterwards!

That looks perfect just a 45 min blip down the m62 to get started, thanks!

That’s brilliant thanks. How did you feel that route compared to a day on the Jenride?
I’ve built myself a few routes using Komoot but it’s local knowledge I’m lacking, it’s not always obvious from an OSM map if a path is going to even exist on the ground or just be a boggy hell hole! I know you can get the heat map on Strava but I’ve dropped my subscription due to expense and lack of voice guidance in the app.
Is there anyway you can make it so I can download the gpx from your page? I get a “Sorry, you are not allowed to access that page.” message when i try to export.

Sorry should have included a bit more detail. So I guess that would be circuits of ~50 miles and ~2000 metres of ascent.

Not sure I’m ready to splurge on an alignment tool. I’ll either live with it or take it to lbs! Thanks for the advice.

It’s 11-36. Why would the new one not be straight, are they often subject to manufacturing defaults?

I’ve just had a look at the old one and tbh it “looks” perfectly straight but not sure how to test other than by eye. I don’t remember it being knocked but it’s entirely possible.

Thanks :)

I did buy a rear hangar as a spare recently. Is it worth banging that on just to see if it sorts it? Can they be put on misaligned or is it a case of if it’s not straight it’s bent?!

Emailed you 👍

Hi Doug. I may have sent you umpteen messages, if so apologies for the spamming! I also may have sent none – the forum messaging system seems very unresponsive.

Suffice to say I’d love to take you up on your offer, now we just need to find a way to communicate our details!

:)

Hi Doug. I’ve tried sending a message but not entirely sure if it’s been successful, the forum seems a bit stuttery and i didn’t really receive a confirmation that it had sent. Have you received anything?

Works a treat, exactly what I did with mine.

Just had a good look with hacksaw at the ready but I’m not sure it’d work even with the indicator removed there’s still a notch in the casing which the brake lever clamp couldn’t make it past.

Are yours the m3100 version of the shifters? The indicators on those look a little bit more separate and easier to hacksaw off.

The indicators seem to be an integral part of the casing so taking a hacksaw to it would be the only option. Giving that some thought, certainly the cheapest option assuming i don’t completely muller them!

The higher end Shimano shifters have removeable indicators with a cover to replace them. You can remove the indicators from the cheap ones, but there isn’t a cover to keep the weather out.

Unfortunately the higher end shifters don’t seem to be available as 9 speed and I don’t really want to have to replace the entire chainset.

Do you know if i can bodge the Alivio ones to remove the indicators??

Yes it’s after watching videos like those that i thought i’d try adjusting the setup to make that achievable. However with the current set of components on the bike it seems like that just isn’t possible.

I suppose I’m then looking for the lowest cost changes i can make to achieve that setup or to decide just not to bother and stick with two finger braking.

I’m happy to spend a bit of cash but I don’t really want to splurge on some new brakes if i find the shifters still don’t play ball or vice versa. It seems like things can quickly get out of hand with new shifters -> new derailleur(s) -> new cassette -> new chainring -> …!

I suppose I was just seeing the trail centre thing as a means to and end tbh I’m.much more after an adventure than thrills and spills, although I did have a great time at Llandegla today and will probably go back either way.

The route was just something to aim for really and was the first thing I found which looked interesting and enough of a challenge. Will definitely look into the 2019 route too thanks for that. I did think about entering this year’s event but really not sure if I would be able to complete in two days and if I’m honest kinda just prefer doing things to my own tune, Definitely not interested in racing although it doesn’t seem like it’s that kind of event.

Been trying to piece together some routes from straight out the door (St Helens) but it’s either canal or road bashing for a distance to get up to Rivington which is the nearest bit of anything with some consistent hills.

I’ll give them a look ta. So no need to push myself onto black runs at trail centres then (i may anyway in time!)? I’m aware that the red at Llandegla is seen as a bit of a soft touch.

I know exactly which tarmac path you mean up to Walna scar btw. I’ve been up that way climbing on Dow a few times and remember thinking i’d hate to be on a bike!

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. Yep expecting a bit of pushing! Happy with that, also happy getting off and walking down if required.

Don’t mind suffering and prepared to put in a good bit of hill training. Just didn’t want to find after all the suffering uphill the descents were basically totally undoable without nerves of steel and lots of skill i don’t have.

Any tips for good training routes within striking distance of merseyside (so lakes/peak/yorkshire/north wales)

Climbing is my main hobby so used to having to make on the spot risk assessment away from immediate help but point taken.

Thanks again!

On a 26″ wheel with a 2.25 tyre, 42/11 at 90rpm is over 27mph – are you really hitting that on the flat!?

I wasn’t complaining about spinning out on the old bike though!

For reference, 34/11 at 90rpm on a 29er will give you 24mph

But the X-Caliber was a 30/11?!

I’m sure you’re right in that I could learn to pedal faster. I can only compare from my own experience, i don’t really do the whole Strava thing. I was always wanting an extra gear (or two) on the X-Caliber and that’s led me to the conclusion that I need a 2x setup.

I’ve a Scandal, and it’s a 29er with 32 front and 11 at the back, and that’s perfectly usable along the TPT that runs past Manchester, and that’s as flat as a pancake.

To be fair I cycled the TPT from Widnes to Southport on the X-Caliber (30 front 11 back) and it wasn’t like i was spinning the entire time. Just everytime i changed down, i ended up searching for another gear on the way back up and felt i spent almost the entire trip in just the highest two gears.

I get that a bike that’s a compromise will always involve making compromises, just thought i could find something that’s a better fit to the old bike.

Appreciate all the advice.

Totally happy with getting something decent secondhand. Recommend any sites other than the usual ebay, gumtree, etc?

Haven’t got the space for two bikes though!

many modern 1x drivetrains – although maybe not ones that come on new 1k bikes – often have a 10 tooth as the smallest cog.

I think that’s the problem, the bikes <1k don’t have a 12 speed group set and so lose that higher 10T gear. They still want to appear better than the “cheapo” <£400 bikes which is the only place you can find 2x or 3x so there’s a price point with a missing bike, the one I want!

The old bike has a 26 inch wheel and is feeling its age. Still perfectly usable just was hoping to treat myself to something a bit better. I guess i could change up some of the parts on it but feel i’d possibly end up spending more on it that it deserves.

Spinning class – yeah i guess just pedaling faster is an option! Don’t really want every trip out to be a HIIT work out though.

Cheers. I did wonder if just looking for an nice slightly older bike might be the best option. Commuting less of a concern now with the whole WFH thing but it’ll still get used for the odd trip to the shops!

Has there always been a this sized gap in the market or has the 1x thing created it?

Yeah been looking at hardtail MTBs. The X-Caliber had a top gear of 30T at front and 11T at the back. I found this was just too low on anything flat and/or smooth.

Quite happy to have a front derailleur and go 2X. Not bothered about having millions of gears just a wide range so i can give it a bit on the flat and still get up the steeper stuff.

Didn’t really want to be forced to buy another cheapy, may as well just stick with the one I’ve got!

Hi Haggis, that’s very useful thank you. Good for parts thanks. Why are you still getting rid of the bike did it not have the desired effect?

I’ve just been on to trek online support and they say it’s ok so I will give it a go.