I’m amazed that shimano made their 11sp compatible with 10sp wheels. What are they playing at? Wheel manufacturers can’t have been happy about that.

Maybe they’re saving that for when 12sp comes out or even straight to 13. I’ll bet that’s possible with boost dropout spacing.

I didn’t think there was any difference. I’ve certainly used a rotor 11sp crank with everything from 8sp to 11sp with no issues on my road bike.

I also upgraded my old mtb from 8sp to ten speed and kept the same crank. Again no issues.

I would definately recommend the German shops. I have a b+m iq-X which works pretty well for the road. Perhaps if it was for off-road I might look at the exposure revo.

I use a shimano lx Dynamo hub, which again I bought from one of the German shops (rose bikes I think) I then built the wheel myself.

I was trying sarcasm, but on looking properly I really do like the brakes.

I like the stealth brakes

I turned my ’95 Marin in to a tourer. To be honest the only original bits are frame, forks and bars, but it just works really well with panniers fitted.

My issue with Dt is that they look a bit cheap. I mean they have just a sticker stuck on. If I’m spending good money on hubs, I’d go with hope, and if I’m spending even more money then it’d be Chris King. I just wish CK would make some centre lock mtb hubs.

Indoor rowing? Next they will be racing turbo trainers.

Conti tyres, shimano shifting, giro/specialized shoes, Kask/giro helmets, Assos / Rapha for road and endura mtb. Fizik saddles (apart from one brooks).

Our students normally study three at A level, with only the odd exceptional student doing four. I don’t really see the benefit to a fourth. As far as I’m aware admissions are always based on three. Certainly three good A levels are better than four OK a levels.

Delivered a spare Garmin charger quickly enough for me that was ordered on eBay, so no real complaints.

If you do end up ordering spokes I always get mine from rose bikes. Even with high postage they still work out
Cheaper.

I wouldn’t order them based on quoted dimensions for parts though, I always measure them since many manufacture measure erd differently, and there is often loads of versions of hubs although hope ones might not be two bad. I always use the wheel pro site for calculating lengths. It has recently changed though so you take the length it says and round up.

I thought the reverb has a minimum insertion of only 8cm, and 10cm is usual for any seat post. I can’t see why any more than 10cm would be needed for the shim.

If anything happened you wouldn’t leave the shimmed seat post in anyway when going for the warranty, just get a cheap 31.6.

Interesting. I hadn’t realised it has been derelict for only 5 years. Seems like ages. I used to enjoy skiing there.

Do people still ski on dry slopes?

I’m 5ft 10 and have a 17in Sherpa. I debated sizing and think I’m really in between the 17 and 19, I have long legs and short torso, so went smaller which I normally do with road bikes. If getting a slack line I think the 18 would be perfect. At your height I definately would go bigger than 16.5.

Actually you won’t need a wheel, 11sp MTB is the same width as 8/9/10 sp, road bikes are different and 11sp is wider.

You will need new shifters and probably derailleurs.

I upgraded my 10sp xt hubs to 11sp no problem.

Just jumped in at the end of this about bike brands you wouldn’t own. Err, a lot of hate for Audi. Don’t they make nice cars? I quite like my A4 anyway. Almost certainly buy another Audi next.

Back to topic. I’d always said I’d never buy a trek after Armstrong and how they shafted lemond’s business, but the speed concept is really nice and I’m really tempted. Ive never really liked specialized, and after trying to sue the roubaix cycle shop in Canada or some some place made them look pathetic, but I find their shoes fit me really well.

Planet X don’t seem to have much love, but I’ve been happy enough with my pro carbon for a few years which I bought as a frame and built up. Given the price I’d say it’s hard to complain. Not sure I’d buy another though. They are just basic Chinese frames that are available cheaper elsewhere.

I’d never buy somethin like a Merida though. A bit like buying a proton car or one them new rovers that are made in China. Actually I suppose like Planet X, which I own. At least it was cheap.

Pretty common to do that most manufactures swap out the crank for a cheaper fsa one and the brakes on their cheaper models. As others have said, it clearly says ‘mix’. Indeed some do it at the top end, Cannondale cranks are probably better than shimano.

I’d personally be more bothered about it being all old out previous generation stuff. Having said that I’m sure it works fine.

Pretty sure it doesn’t exist. I have this issue with my caad 12 disc fork. Why would they make a flat mount rear with post mount front. Had to buy a separate post mount caliper for the front.

My 2014 Sid b have a silver steerer. I think these remained unchanged until this year. They are 29er rct3 model.

When I read the title my immediate thoughts were something else, but those rotors do look nice.

I’ve always found ariones comfortable. I have a leather brooks on a touring bike and it’s terrible. I keep hoping that it will break in but I’ll probably end up getting another arione.

I suspect there is an element of saddles breaking you in rather than the other way round, which is why I find other saddles uncomfortable.

Yep. Keep them in boxes in the garage. Never know them worn out 90s Alivio stuff will come in. Road bits tend to get recycled downwards between my various bikes, Summer – Winter – Turbo.

In my experience its usually the cassette that’s worn, especially if the old chain was pretty worn too. Does it do it in all gears?

I bought a Garmin forerunner 35 for the misses. Seems to do everything for basic running including optical hr.

I can confirm cut gate can get a bit damp this time of year.

Great. I haven’t bought a map in ages. I just print what I need and laminate it.

The app is great for the ‘where am I’ moments,.

Pretty good for route planning a as well. Plot the route on the computer and download to Garmin.

My Harley Davidson has a belt. Seems to work ok. If they can lug around a 400kg motorbike I can’t see why they wouldn’t work on a bike.

I don’t think they work too well though if they regularly get stuff like stones trapped in the gears.

I recently bought the same upgrade for my m785 xt hubs, which I presume are similar. Unlike road bikes, 11speed mountain bike cassettes fit on 10sp hubs, so it all works a treat.

The other thing you need to be careful with is the gear shifter mounting. I had some previous generation xt brakes, which required the Ispec B shifters.

I use a Fenix 3, although it doesn’t have the optical hrm, I don’t mind using hr straps so that’s fine. They don’t work for swimming anyway.

The vivoactive as far as I know doesn’t have a Tri mode. The Fenix 5/5s have serious issues connecting to sensors.

If I was buying another watch, I’d go forerunner 935. But to be honest I’m currently happy with what I have.

Definately recommend rose bikes for spokes. Shame they don’t seem to stock black Dt revs but I usually build with comps.

Amazingly they are still cheaper than uk suppliers on only 64 spokes even factoring in the 7 quid postage.

I need a new helmet. My Shoei is probably that age, and as you say, well past its best. It does seem a shame to just chuck it though.