Ive got quite a bit of park stuff thats bike specific (bike repair stand/wheel building stand/headset press etc) but would never buy anything like an allen key or torque wrench.

I’ve often re used it after replacing cables. I usually have some new tape ready in case though.

I think I must be getting old. I see the’trails’ being built in our local woods as vandalism. There is no legal right to ride a bike in them, someone cuts down trees and pulls down dry stone walls to make the features.

They don’t seem to return to their previous state over winter.

Now if you have the land owners permission then fine.

I’m guessing a small padlock through a disc would be pretty effective. I don’t so much bike pack but ride an old mtb with panniers, but it’s heavy enough that I can’t see anyone walking off with it.

As for aluminium being rubbish, try riding a caad 12. I bought one with discs as a winter bike and love it.

back to the question, I’d be looking at a Cannondale because I like them, but you can’t beat canyon for value.

I’ve used Garmin devices for years (probably about 10 since I bought a forerunner 305) and now have a fair collection. Others seem to moan about issues but my experience has been positive. I find Garmin devices work well and link seamlessly with other services like strava.

I would recommend the edge 25 if it has the features you need. I personally use an edge 810  and edge 520 along with a Fenix 3.

wahoo devices seem to be gaining popularity but probably not in the same price range.

Always kmc for me. Can’t stand them shimano master pin things. Much easier with a quick link.

In fairness I’ve never has a shimano chain break, but I like with kmc you can remove it for cleaning, although this isn’t the case with 11sp since the link is single use, but I doubt it would be an issue.

I have never had to replace a bottom bracket, but until recently have only used square taper sealed and more recently hollow tech type bearing, and also a similar rotor bsa30 with even smaller bearings. I now have a Cannondale caad 12 with bb30a press fit bb. Installation went smoothly and everything is running fine. An a oohing squeak turned out to be my shoe!

The question is how long will these bearings last and will repeatedly removing, re inserting them effect the ‘press fit’ interface. At worst and it becomes loose I suppose a bit of loctite may help.

Unfortunately for Chris his achievements were before anyone in the UK had heard of cycling.

Have a look at the German websites such as rose bikes/bike24. I bought a shimano lx dyna hub for a good price and a b+m iq-X which is very good.

I consider the three peaks to be the Yorkshire three peaks, as in penyghent, whernside and ingleborough. Even if you’re doing the Snowden, scafell pike, Ben Nevis, non of the terrain is that challenging. I’ve done them all in essentially a pair of trainers (actually some inov8 trail roc shoes).

I find it strange that fell runners are happy to run over the hills in very minimalist shoes, yet walkers insist on big boots. I was always in the big boot camp but since doing for more running I’m now in the minimalist camp.

obviously if you are carrying a very heavy pack or going over really wet terrain I’d wear boots, but the three peaks ( Yorkshire or national) is pretty easy. I think some walking shoes would be perfect.

Interesting about stans arch, had exactly the same. I’m not the most experienced wheel builder, probably done about a dozen, never had any issue, some have now done many years service.

I built up my MTB wheels with arch ex rims, tensioned to 125kgf on ds as per spec. Went for ride and when checked spokes again they had detensioned. Turns out when you stick the tyre on, they lose about 20kgf of tension, making them very loose on the nds. I’ve since added a little more tension and it’s been fine since.

Definately take at least two pair of shorts, alternating each day. Chamois cream may help although I can never bring myself to try it. Do you apply it to youself or the shorts?

have to say I always suffer terribly with long multi day rides despite using clean shorts etc. On reflection I think I really need to give the cream a go.

I’ll 2nd Kask protone, since that’s what I use. Sure other newish Kask models will be similar. A lot better then any giro I’ve owned (admittedly MTB lids so perhaps not a fair comparison), although giro make nice shoes!

I converted my old Marin Muirwoods for road (touring) duties. I put on the original fork, built some heavy duty wheels with dyna hub and stuck on a comfy saddle. Turns out the entire drivetrain was shot so upgraded that to slx 10. It works really well though. I use Schwalbe marathon tyres (not entirely sure which version since there seems to be dozens). I’d bet they’d be perfect for canal towpaths.

I stick to road pedals on road bikes, speedplay zeroes. Really like how they are double sided and zero resistance float. Having had knee surgery I think they are probably the kindest pedal on knees there is. Not cheap though.

Surely there shouldn’t be any confusion. He handed over some parts to be fitted. Surely it’s reasonable to assume he would get anything unused back. It wasn’t as though the parts they kept were worthless junk.

Now if I went to a lbs to have say a bb/headset fitted and they supplied it, It might be more acceptable to keep unused bits such as small spacers.

Basically that is stealing. Plain and simple.

I’ve personally not use an lbs in years. If I need anything done, I just buy the tool and do it myself. Works out expensive to start with (like a proper headset press or wheel building stand), but eventually they pay for themselves. Working on a bike definately isn’t hard.

Press fit bb definately reduce the payback time for the headset press.

I’ve found mine to be not too accurate. Battery is fine, but seems to mistake riding on bumpy roads as frantic pedalling. Probably be fine inside though.

How do I find the ramp test? I hate the 20 min ftp so much I just guess it and tweak it during the season. The ramp test sounds much better. I’ve searched on my iPhone app and it just lists ramp test X. The description says it doesn’t generate an ftp value automatically

(I’m using a beta version of the app if that makes a difference).

I agree that the driver said the didn’t see her because otherwise he would have to explain why he ran in to her. It annoys me what little punishment is dished out to motorists who collide with cyclists.

It seems the ‘I didn’t see’ is sufficient excuse. I guess wearing hi viz might negate that argument. Hope she is ok though.

I use it on my road bikes that have speed sensors. On my mtb or whilst running, I just use GPS, and the auto pause can stop recording whilst going slowly.

Most websites such as Garmin connect can give you a moving time/AV speed so not too worried either way.

I’ll be honest and admit I probably tell a good fork from a bad one. My Stanton Sherpa is currently running 3 yr old Sid rct3s. All I know they are better than my previous manitou 4 forks fitted to a 90s Marin. Especially now the elastomers have crumbled to bits. I’ll bet fork technology is pretty mature now.

Did any pro team ever run shimano/fulcrum? I very really see fulcrum in the peloton. Excellent wheels in my experience, although the bearings do go, they are easily replaceable.

For cycling it definately uses power since I don’t get it on my edge 520. For running it is based on your pace and heart rate. It gives an estimate based your max hr.

As for accuracy I’ve no idea. My running vo2max is currently 51, which predicts race times that seem optimistic.

I’ve a couple of cm on mine, but use spacers. To be honest I left it for resale but it’s a real eyesore. I’ll definately cut it at some point.

I wouldn’t worry about the bung thing. Not an issue with steel/alu steerers since they are designed to be used with a star fangled nut. To be honest I’d not be too bothered with a carbon steerer either.

Rapha. Bought a load of stuff with a 25% off code. If they send me another, I’ll buy some more.

I normally buy something from wiggle when they do the spend £200 and save £40. Currently looking at some exposure lights at evans which look well priced.

Garmin in my experience are the best if you want thave get the ‘magnet less type’. They only transmit ant+ so don’t do Bluetooth. This might be an issue for using it with zwift since most phones won’t receive the signal (although I think a few android devices might work).

I have a wahoo magnet less cadence and speed sensors, and although they transmits Bluetooth, so work with trainerroad in my case on my iPhone, the cadence sensor is hopeless outside. It uses accelerometers and gets confused on bumpy roads. The Garmin in comparison detects the earths magnetic field (I think), but in any case works much better outside.

The wahoo blue sc works perfectly but needs magnets stuck to crank and wheels. To be honest I think this is my favourite since it works well and transmits both Bluetooth and ant+. Maybe not ideal for mtb use since the clearance been sensor and magnet needs to be tight.

I’ve only done triathlons, but unless it’s really wet, I’d just stick to the same socks. Definately worth investing in elastic laces for the running shoes though. If the ride is only 12mile or so, I’m sure running kit will be fine, although triathlon type cycling shorts are fine to run in.

I think m8000 is ok. Actually pretty good. The only groupset I have that is better is dura ace on a road bike.

Haven’t tried sram though. Perhaps I’m missing out.

Never ridden one, don’t know anyone with one, but are they more likely to rip up trails? I see them as being half way to being a motorbike which obviously ruin trails and are banned from bridleways . That is my only potential objection.

I know they are speed limited, 15mph up a steep trail is probably what a motorbike would do, add on some massive knarly tyre and I’m not sure there’s a massive difference. As I’ve said though, I don’t really know anything about them.

Why not the Stanton?

I bought some a530s and don’t like them really. Seem to be the worst of both worlds since the side you want is always underneath.

Aren’t there flat pedals with spd bit on each side? Sure I’ve seen something.

Buy spokes from rose bikes. You can buy Dt comps for about £15 a wheel. Postage is a bit steep but still works out cheaper.

I would say you cannot get more British than Brompton, which are certainly made in England. What about the Genesis volare in 953 tubing. Probably made in Taiwan though.

Last Year bought some specialized triathlon shoes at a bargain price. Nowhere else had stock since they were an old model, so assumed they wouldn’t appear and a it was an error on the website. They arrived a couple of days later, so was very pleased.

Maybe I have duff pads in my hy/rd brakes on on my caad 12 but I’m not overly impressed compared to my mtb with xt brakes, the difference is night and day (admittedly using slight larger discs, 180/160 vs 160/140).

At some point I’ll upgrade, unfortunately I’m still running 10sp so will need new wheels.

I initially set my bike up 160 front and back because that’s what I had lying round. I upgraded the front to 180 and it’s better so I would say stepping up again will be better still. To be honest though I’m now happy with the braking so wouldn’t go bigger.

I’m always impressed with the power of disc brakes. My motorbike can stop from silly speeds with just a slight two fingered pull. Perhaps we need to go to twin disc front setups!

I have an m8000 single chainset but it still has unused holes for an extra chainring, so I’m pretty sure the actual chainset is the same for either single or double set ups.

I installed a hope headset into my Stanton Sherpa. The bearing slid in and out easily to the top cup before installation, but once installed into the frame, it needed ‘encouragent’ to seat it. I would just tap it out and replace. If you could measure it I would be tempted to get a skf or similar.