Both the Ti 456 and the Ti 456 evo came in 14″

The Endura Race Cape takes some beating 20k breathable and totally waterproof.

It’s a minefield isn’t it boys?

There’s open mould bikes from shit QC OEM houses.
Open mould bikes from good QC OEM houses.
Open mould bikes from OEMs who have on- site QC from a brand’s representatives.
Open mould bikes made to modified spec for one brand only.
Territory limited moulds where you’ve shouldered part of the dev cost and get a region exclusive.
Closed mould bikes with all of the above options.

Old open moulds tend to get passed around, literally. A company might use them for a few years, then redo the mould and sell the old ones off to another OEM. These are your ‘no brand’ eBay bikes. When you see the same frame shape from loads of different sources on all the auction sites – steer clear!

I run SRAM RED shifter and a Dura ace front mech with no issues on my road bike. You can mix and match them

Guys, the headset is FSA Orbit C-40 No.42 ACB Tapered Headset, it’s a standard part we use it on nearly all of our tapered/integrated frames. Maybe a dozen frames in our line-up use it, my Viner Volterra included.

Bias alert.

I’ve run a couple of the geax tyres and I’m surprised they aren’t more popular, maybe it’s a fashion, importer, branding thing. For the money we bang them out you’d struggle to do better. The Barro Mountain and the Datura are firm favourites for more xc type general riding duties.

I’ll be taking the family.

Avoid the Twinty, it’s a special kind of shit

under load the notches will cause them to self destruct in record time

BB Spec updated on the website, sorry fort any inconvenience it m,ay haver caused.

Don’t get the decathlon one they die first time in the wet, I’ve killed three got a refund on my second whole head unitand replacement sensor from them just this morning

Ride em for a week send email back if they stay notch

I vacillate between chain wax and Muc-off wet ceramic.

It depends on how tight you like the cockpit. I’m the same height as you, but I have A 32″ inside leg and I’m +6″ ape index, so short in the body. The small is the one I would choose. I ride a medium Meta SX with a50mm stem and my road bike is a 55cm with 120 stem.

If you want one to throw around, go small, if you want one to ‘ride on’ get the medium.

There’s a small washer goes inside the free hub body to space it from the hub. It sits against the small bearing you can see at the far end of the free hub. It’s likely still inside your xd body. Least there was on the 2010 Sx and kysirium wheels

Hora, I have a box full of spares for those lights. Is it the bar part that’s shagged or the shoe on the light itself?

What cassette have you got, mid cage mech will take a 32t cassette-

Adi I’d be guessing at a date. I’ll ask crossland on monday, its his baby.

Had that in my hands today and it’s bloody light, the rims are Halo and the hubs are industry nine, neither are likely be on the production bikes, certainly not the I9’s any road.

Where’s the justice ten frenchies shot dead for taking the piss while Blair never gets so much as a flesh wound for his part in the gulf war.

@badnewz don’t forget the sterlisation camps that you’ll need to stop them making babies. Maybe we should sequest all there goods and chattals, maybe put them all in temporary camps for their own safety n that.

Hang on, I think i know this one…

Depends on your riding and your bike. They are as good as any.

X01 cassette needs a few miles on it with a brand new chain, same as the RED road groupo. Worth doing front ring at the same time of course.

The LB rims are good, no issues so far with my 26″ and they’ve done shit loads of miles through rocks.

The road rims will be similarly well made. Ask for them to be 6 degree drilled, better strength and lower theoretical shear load at nipple- important for disc.

No idea about the Stoy but the stock shock has 76mm of stroke, so at least that much.

if you really must keep a totally fubared rim then take the spokes out, jump up and down as required and then move onto a spike through the eyelets to help remove the twist. I’ve worked out some real 50mm+ warps in my time and got them built back up to a mm or so. Always replaced them once back from holiday though…

A lot of USB sockets on devices will only supply a couple of hundred mA, you’ll need more than that if you expect to charge 4x 18650 in less than half a day.

Carbon rims don’t go out of true, they are rigid and don’t deform like alloy ones. If you knock them out of true it’s because you’ve stretched your spokes. (Which you can’t do on the lightweights as they too are carbon). Replacing the stretched spokes will straighten them. Not the same as truing a bent alloy rim.

A total waste of time for pivots, get max compliment stainless if you can instead.

The frames are pretty light, the wheels are massively overbuilt with plain gauge spokes, that’s where the weight lives. With carbon tubs they are damn light.

Not sure what’s happening with sales, wouldn’t hurt to wait a day or two.

They are as shown in the product description, with gold anno stantions. That dates them as pre April 2013 production. So with the older rebound piston valving- which can be retrofitted.

If it’s stupid cold then lobster gloves rule the roost but if it’s less than -5 then the Nalini BASE (mantoTEX) are the best I’ve found, others either let the wind through or retain too much moisture from sweat- these are perfect.

I also went down a few week ago going over Burbage bridge, black ice, and ended up putting my hand down at speed- they’re not even marked.

Hora, what frame is it on? My last road bike had a funky curve between head and downtime that used to funnel flicked rain water straight into the lower race bearings, they used to last half a year with luck, regardless of what i did to them.

The fix was a small neoprene band, like a Marsh guard but wrapped around bottom of head tube with the middle tongue part obstructing the flow of shit into the bearings.

http://www.creationwatches.com/products/casio-analog-digital-293/

Their Seiko prices are similarly aggressive, I’ve had a G-shock and a Seiko Chrono off them over the years.

The cheapest one is ok, the CQC is better- if you like the looks, and Qyoto is the best of the bunch by far. Frankly even the £19.99 is worth the money and then some.

The OEM units come with a third rate bleed, but that’s par for the course with OEM disc brakes. Lever action is nice, adjustment options are good, straight from the Hope book of adjustability on the RSC model. The problem with Avid’s squealing was largely down to their disc choice, that’s not an issue with the the Guides thankfully as they’ve up specced the discs.

We spec them on a handful of On-one models and the R&D guys ran them for plenty long enough to get to grips with their peculiarities- which are few and far between. They seem like a real decent brake from SRAM.

RichT, there’s nothing wrong with them, but we have been doing a lot of sale stuff lately so they might have sold through.

Cut the USB wires to different lengths, cut em so the copper is flush to the insulation for each wire. Then just dip each one in epoxy, so you have a match head size on each core in the USB. I put a drop of black acrylic paint in to help make it obvious when its done right. I use the same encapsulation for fixing Di2 cable boxes, it works really well.

Tomac is with planetX, there’s a few sample frames doing the rounds but I think the intention is for the US market in the first instance. There’s no under built suspension frames on the drawing board so no need to worry.