I kept the same T so no gearing change, but the oval feels smoother going uphill, I reckon its worth -1T in terms of knee pressure.

Did you buy them from us? ;-)

Everyone wants everything cheap, personally i’m more than prepared to pay a little extra for ‘now’

I’m doing Saturday morning , dad/daughter stuff. Bacon sarnies, couple of episodes of adventure time…

My preference is to buy from a retailer who holds their price, but when you are writing million dollar cheques to suppliers every month cash flow is king. So pricing becomes a game.

We are correcting long term pricing on most products now, re dollar FX, so frames are as cheap as they’re likely to be outside of a ltd availability end of line sale.

There’s loads of really inexpensive stuff online now, we’ve just cleared out Fishers end of line and rockshox spares and there’s more to come. If you’re making a big purchase, use an online price tracker and see where its been for the last 6 months.

You’ll have to ask Bikebiz what our next move is, seeing as they made the original article up…

I’m genuinely surprised by how many posters appear to have little idea how a business functions and what financial pressures are placed upon its operations if they wish to remain competitive in an international market. We see huge fluctuations in sales from week to week the only sensible way to cover the work requirement that creates is to be flexible, and that means using agency staff. If consumers didn’t want the lowest possible prices the world would be a different place.

There’s a lot of consolidation well overdue in the UK bike industry, and it’s coming soon, whether we like it or not. ‘Peak Bike’ was actually two years ago and unless TV coverage or government policy changes re transport infrastructure then that slide will continue.

Thepodge, that seems like a perfect example of us being willing to go the extra mile to give a customer exactly what they need.

(I guess the customer in question was expecting a BNIB set though ?)

There’s not much factually right with the BBiz article, and likewise with the onward reporting of the initial inaccurate report by STW and other parties. No one even bothered to call up and ask… Road.C.C bothered to call up so we’ve addressed the original article through them.

There are tough times brewing for the bike industry and PX has taken early steps to ensure we can weather that storm. No one likes letting staff go, at any time of year, but we are in a largely seasonal business and the industry flexes staff numbers up and down every summer.

The good news, though, is we’ve got 12 days of great Xmas deal starting tomorrow, so fill yer boots and get those Xmas present early.

There’s some pretty shitty ti fabricators out there, not the smaller guys, but the larger OEM suppliers. There’s the well known tale about the pacific rim fab that refuses to purge the frames with argon gas for welding and then looks all surprised when they suffer a 10% failure rate due to weld embrittlement.

I will ride a Ti bike at some point, probably when I’m fifty, fat and overpaid!

(scuttles off to hide the new Picknflick he’s currently testing)

That’ll buff out

Park tools inner tube patches, the clear squarish ones, or self-adhesive dacron tape. I get about 6 month out of a piece of that and I heel clip on my stays like buggery- bad enough to wear through the heels on my shoes in about 12 months.

I’ve been offered credit with DX for reviews a few times, I always turn it down. Doesn’t seem right to me.

Just make a 4 cell, 18650, 2 series, 2 parallel, that’ll do you, and buy a smart charger to charge the cells individually. Think I have a battery holder rigged just for that floating round somewhere, all it needs is a wire and the correct plug. Can you solder and use a voltmeter?

never had any trouble with them, but I do clean the loctite off before fitting them and use copperease when putting them on. Never needed any extension bar, just a 120mm allen key. never needed anything to get them off at work either.

I like my 27mm INt width LBicycle carbon rims, not sure they are more than 50 grams lighter than alloy ones could be but they feel pretty damn stiff compared to the MAvic Crossmax SX they replaced. No complaints here for the money, but they’re certainly not earth shatteringly different

Wilburt, not only am I old enough to remember but I’ve actually met the great man himself Peter Belt…(the loon)

Your axle has snapped at the inner end of the freehub?

If it has snapped there then that’s due to incorrect fitting of the freehub into the hub shell, or incorrect spacing of the freehub on the axle. Either way slp in the freehub causes a load point against the inner race on the hub end bearing in the freehub.

If its snapped at the top end then likely under tight axle.

The RTD-80 r grade frames are paint imperfections only. Some of them are very slight indeed. Usually just incorrect size labelling on BB transfer, or a bit of matt overspray on a gloss area and vice versa, or maybe a couple of pin prick bubbles in the finish.

They’re very good frames, well reviewed by mags and owners alike (that bike owners, not dave who owns us)…

There’s some right bargains, frames and wheels especially. Deliveries are running behind but catching up all the time. I’ve never seen as many staff on pick pack as we’ve had all this week.

There’s plenty of crank clearance all round, no issue with tyres and mud space, nice routing for cables. The Rango has a flip-chip in the rear drops so the geometry is adjustable between vanilla 650b up to 29+. The geometry data is on the site. No wizard’s sleeve seat tube.

Danny has never lacked for skill, few guys can match him for bike handling but he’s never had the ‘head’ support he needs to win. His focus on training with the new team has gone a long way to ameliorating this but he still lacks confidence (check out his reaction to his time vs bruni’s reaction to his own) after they crossed the line at MSA. If he gets that killer confidence thing sorted with a good sports psychologist he’ll get even better IMO.

That said it’s Bruni for the next year or two if he can stay fit then the nippers will be nipping at his heels

Weighed the large XO/1 in the shop today, 32.1lbs in current spec with WTB’s and the piggyback Monarch. I reckon there’s a lb to be dropped from that just by going decent tubeless.

2 different inner diameter and outer.

Haven’t tried em but I know the BBB fairly well.

Seems odd, there’s nothing special about the standard wheels on the BBB.

Did you order the different centre-lock adaptor to go with the 15mm conversion?

Are you sure it’s bearings and not disc?

Is there a central spacer fitted between the bearings on your new front hub, if that were missing then these symptoms would match

Dip in the lacquer is bollocks, its microns thick not mm.

This looks like a point where multiple layers of carbon overlap, there’s probably been less than perfect fulfilment from the bag in the mould with the result that there’s been a touch of fibre drift and / or less than perfect consolidation in the top layer. The carbon is there it just bows down a tiny bit at this point.

Carbon frames have these little imperfections, most of them do. With a painted frame when there’s not a beauty layer on top they’ll fill these with fine filler, perfectly acceptable. Sometimes the dips are too small to get enough depth of filler in for it to hold.

Nowt to worry about, just not the visual perfection we all crave.

Honestly, get a smaller front and save the 42t for cliffs. Or so what you can do to offset your chainline towards the larger rings if you spend much less time in your smallest cogs.

The best tip I was ever given for chains is to buy a handful when you replace your cassette. Then swap chains every 250 miles, cycling through them in sequence. That way you spread the wear over multiple chains over a much longer period. As opposed to utterly shagging a chain and then having rings so sharked that a new chain never meshes.

With a crack running up the tube I’d be asking them about their layup schedule. I’d expect the outer layers on any seatpost to be bias wrapped, there’s little strength to be had from fibres running straight up the post, especially when almost all the experienced load is front to back. +/- 45 degrees is order of the day.

If they’re really on their game them the trailing edge of the tube should be thicker than the front and the front thicker than the sides.Assuming a relatively normal saddle position most of your weight will be over the middle/back of the saddle and hence leverage comes from behind. No matter how much you might try you just can’t support as much weight on the tip of the saddle as you can the back and they should design accordingly. Look at a Thomson, their wall thickness distribution tells you all you need to know.

If they come back telling you it’s just the beauty layer ask them why they don’t use a beauty layer that offers structural benefits, after all it’s a top flight light weight component, there’s no place for ‘excess’ anywhere.

Do you want a light bike, or a high spec frame with a killer set of wheels on it? It’s basically a free bike for the cost of the wheels. Buy it, ride it, replace the heavier finishing kit with better items as you go.

The RTD-90 certainly isn’t dead feeling, far from it. It’s a fair bit stiffer in the BB and head tube than the RT80 due to the use of higher grade carbon.

I’m curious how you know that it’s the same frame, just because it looks the same doesn’t mean it’s the same mould, the same layup or even the same supplier. There are many tiers of Chinese frame builders producing similar looking frame with wildly different spec and quality control.

Just tried the Vittoria Corsa Speed Open (tlr) on my wtb cx i19’s on my bish bash bosh. They work, not much more to say. We’ll see how long they last the daily commute.

None of the Wharncouver stuff is legit, so it’ll all get logged eventually.

Do Livestrong fund research? Thought it was just PR guff

The other stuff is Nomex honeycomb, basically Kevlar fibres made in paper and thermoset in a phenolic resin. It’s old tech but next to nowt beats it for making stiff and light, flat or curved panels from.

Selcof or El Guapo pro’s on WTB i19 from PlanetX. £249

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WBFCXSPD/wtb-frequency-cx-i19-rim-on-selcof-pro-disc-hubs

There’s a few different options, Qr, 12m front and 15m front. And a cheaper comp version with 4 pawl freehub

Happy with mine on the Bish Bash Bosh and they’ve seen some rough use in the Peaks.

My last one must have been on and off ten times, no issues.

Steerers are silver on the LR. (or they could be black one week and silver the next)

I’m currently running the new 25c Vittoria Rubino G+ on my Bish Bash Bosh as the fast tyre option. they’re actually very good, wet grip is good, braking is good and so far no holes in them. Previous choice was Hutchinson Fusion 5’s on the road bike and Ones before that.

If you have no idea how to set up your bike, or if you have ‘odd bones’ or injuries then its worthwhile. If you’ve been riding for years and delight in honing your position on a new bikes over many rides then chances are its surplus to requirements.

We do an awful lot of fits at our place and very seldom do we see anyone back for alterations, so either I guess it works.

Peaty for the win.

The clue is in the name….