The Yari is very good for the money, it’s out go-to 160 now.

Dirty bit of my Bish Bash Bosh, 10 months in still on the same gear cable, i’d not worry about it.

Here she is dressed up for the winter commute. 30 mile a day 10 on road twenty on tow path.

The Matt Black was the original Dark Knight colour, yours would appear to be the Italian Painted Dark Knight, which as you know is a different finish. That’s my bad on the image file naming.

Your bike is built under pressure and bagged from the inside to squeeze out any air. Any repair will just be a wrap around and fill. it might look the same but the construction in none continuous, so much weaker, and won’t be the same grade of carbon. I wouldn’t touch a critical tube repair on a bike from any repairer who can’t do the repair at the original frame manufacturing temp, with the same resin system and at the same pressure. It’s no better than putting bondo on a car. – test results from repaired frames show this.

Actually, I’m in a similar situation myself, just about to go to court over a RTA where I was hit from behind by a car on a roundabout as the driver attempted to turn across two lanes to exit the roundabout. Suffice to say i’ll not be taking a repair to my made to measure italian road frame with less than 1000 miles on it.

usual disclaimer re being staff.

I rode the medium a bunch when we were developing it, maybe 1200 miles over a month or so. All ridden on 35mm carbon rims with Ultegra Di2 across the peak districts usual roads. So shitty tarmac with an average of 1000ft climbing an hour.

It’s not a super lightweight, the frame’s a touch over 1kg, but doesn’t feel like it. It climbs better than my Viner and that’s sub 900g (Who am I kidding, i’m 83kg, like I can feel the 150g) The steering is well judged not too steep, or too much trail, it’s tractable and always felt surefooted even on wet descents, it’s all tyres though innit.

It’s got real spring in its step and it does genuinely surge forward with every pedal stroke. It’s a bloody good bike, not just for us, I’d put it against any road frame south of 3K.

Get one with a mid compact chainset and a 28t cassette, you’ll be climbing the walls on it.

Simon

geez, that guy in the Vupine picture has a mid weight knit on under it, hold f-in cold is it where he rides.

i4 here as well, serves me for 30 miles of winter commuting a day, been rock solid for over a year.

Pressfit is 2-3 less process’s in frame manufacture, 100-150g less weight, and a cost saving into the bargain.

I’ll only ever use PF again with one of those Praxis Collet type BB’s. I hate them.

I love that BH mechanic tail, yer cos obviously an unloaded bike with zero weight on it will pit the bearings when loaded with a 70kg rider wouldn’t. Thank f_ck he doesn’t fix my bikes.

I’m sure all the bike shop mechanics will attest. it’s not jet washes or roof racks that shags bikes, it’s numpties who think GT40 is a suitable all-over bike lube…

preload. hold wheel by axle ends spin it, tighten nut gently until you feel the bearings then back it off just a touch.

W
Heaven knows why they put them in hubs that don’t use angular contact bearings, there’s nowt to adjust.

I’d have put him firmly on his arse with a generous shove.

Sure you’ve got the right name, the Stealth 2 is still current.

Always considered mine a wet and/or sub zero jacket. It’s my foulest weather clobber.

We sell a lot of them at OO, Magicshine quality can be a bit variable, The MJ06 has been rock solid, as is the MJ900. The bigger lights, M2 etc can be a touch flaky on the switches due to them trying to cram in too much stuff and stressing the wiring.

We started speccing those Marz shocks pretty much as soon as they started them, hence the custom colours. The same goes for the forks. The 160’s might have a bit of seal drag on them from new but they soften right in and last forever, none of that 20 hour fox bullshit. Phone Fox stock up on spares, it’ll outlast you.

I’d take the Marz rear over a Monarch debonair plus and I’ve ridden them both on that bike. personal preference though, there’s not much in it.

Always use a tension gauge and always wind them on/off half a turn a couple of times as part of a final destress. More often than not you end up with a torsion load on the spokes that unwinds them if you don’t.

As a retailer/wheelbuilder you can order ‘retail packaged’, with spokes, or ‘OEM packs’, typically, though not always, without spokes.

As long as the retailer clearly labels them as supplied/not supplied with spokes then what’s the issue.

Seems like some people always blame others for their mistakes.

I find them not as good out of the box but if you fully pack them before you fit one and then slavver the inside of the plastic shield in grease they seem to last just as well. I recently stripped and repacked one that I had ridden submerged for a hundred yards and left wet thereafter. It was grinchy and noisy as hell. after a double flush and repack its perfect.

26″ full suss here, not going to change it anytime soon. I’m all stocked up on fork spares, nothing else will ever run out.

Some of you gents must be real gorilla’s. I’m 5’9″ with a +6″ ape index and that medium would be perfect for me. It’s almost the same as the OO DeeDar, just a little higher at the front and that fits me perfectly.

All my Hellies get smelly after a few rides and it never shifts for the life of them. RAB Techno merino ones don’t for some reason…

They squeal on the front for me but not the rear, my front disc is most worn so will try swapping to new to see if it improves.

To put in perspective at leas they lasted more than the 2 weeks I got out of a pair of Swistsop

Pickenflick has more clearance. They’re not hugely different in handling, the Pickenflick being a touch more stable and less racey. In terms of feel they’re quite different from the BB backwards, the xls is stiffer to pedal input.

5 or 6% percent, I wish. Weight trumps aero in my back yard. Sub 38’s all day long.

xr4 is good the Ardent have poor edge grip when lent over IMO.

The old Bontrager wet 2.3 was also good I still use these on the back for their progressive slip.

Just had to check. The Build-it-yessen PickenFlick and the XLS both come with the SRAM hydraulic hose kit, barbs and olives. I’ll edit content accordingly once I’m back in tomorrow.

I’ll enquire why the London Road doesn’t.

If you have the EL Guapo Pro hub versions it should be entirely feasible as they use the same hardware as the standard width hubs. I’d have to look into the numbers and check to see if we have suitable end caps in stock. I’m guessing we did them with the Hesperus wheels so i strongly suspect its possible.

email me, its in my profile.

Had my 27mm internal versions 2 years, went for the 50 gram heavier option. they’ve been rallied, raced, ramped, dropped, hopped and cased- still straight still undamaged.

I run my tyres low 30’s though which probably helps re rock strikes.

Martin, my username was given to me by my old bank when i first joined their online banking many moons ago, it predates my time at PX by over a decade. It’s the user name that i use for all my online activity, i never post under another name.

finbar I’d love to offer you one at that price, but Dave would kill me, that’s well below cost.

Richard, the jackets have been available on pre-order for several weeks, they’re far from being tat, as anyone who’s taken the time to check them out will attest.

I find our PX crab hands too hot unless its well below zero.

Short answer, you can’t do it with the parkwood and your current fork.

I wear a pair of Nalini Manotex unless it’s below 0, then I switch to my PX crab hands- they’re too warm for anything above 0 on my hands.

Lester, there’s a good chance (bad) that the pricing of anything you currently have in the basket will change on Monday as we swap to a different ‘mathematical’ deal. The basket cookie is usually set to 24 hours, so it’ll probably empty itself anyway.

@Nathb, that’s a proper wizards sleeve. I’m ashamed.

I assume I’m that ‘forum deflection guy’.

Lester, did you get in touch with CS about your missed deal? I checked but didn’t see any interaction, maybe I missed it.

I did like the BikeBiz article today, seems like they really have a bee in their bonnet about us. Heaven offend that anyone in the UK should be able to snap up a genuine bike bargain via a retail outlet that isn’t a local bike shop or one of the large multiples.

Using an auction house, how very dare we….

There was an issue with the angle of the cable exit on earlier sram shifters, this was exacerbated by short drop and short reach bars causing tight cable curves. sram fixed the port on the shifters. if you still suffer a little I’d recommend bars with larger curves and not ‘nailing’ your gear cables to the bars with excess leccy tape.

Drilling the frames to tke a complete cable run will negate your warranty, so I’d try the bar solution first.

sram’s coated cables are worth the extra in this instance, as are shimano outers which are 0.1mm wider

I stocked up on the plastic guide parts and mounted them with zipties and o-rings. Don’t use them sinceI went 1x but they worked fine.

Apparently if one was to ask nicely we’ll press the crown race for you.

Lester, email customer service, I suspect they’d be willing to offer you the goods you want at the price they were before ENDOFWORLD was turned off- because we terminated that deal early.

Re the unbuilt bikes, you need rim tape, brake inner and outer, gear outer, ferules, delete according to drivetrain.

The deal switches up soon, it might make sense to do a little research on the next number sequence, as some items will go up and some will come down further.

The fork mounts are so you can attach generators to the frame and have them pedal to power your big plasma tv as you watch the new Top Gear on BBC 2.

They are similar to the Genesis but upspecced in quite a few areas, headset, shifters etc.

Just clearing out old stock, ex team stuff, returns etc, it is what it is. it’s the cheapest way to shift dead stock, and that’s the long and short of it.

There’s a value to all this stuff and the best way to deal with it is to let the market decide.

No point having it sitting on the shelf when the cash it represents could be transformed into new shiny parts, new models and future offerings.

They only come off if

A. They’ve not been tightened correctly.
b. The spline is damaged.
C. The crank arm spline is damaged.
D. Not enough preload.
E. Too many spacers.
F. Out of width BB shell.

I always preload them, tighten the inside bolt, remove the preload tool, fit a metal cap-tight !, then do up the other bolt, then repeat the bolts until done. I’ve probably fitted a hundred various road and MTB shimano chainsets, never had one back.

The plastic cap is crap.