I work at PX, SRAM Rival and 105 build times on a Pro-carbon have been as low as 5 days over the past week. We are waiting on a delivery of Shimano Ultegra and until that arrives, which could be any day, 105 and rival jumps to the front of the queue until then.

That said the Ultegra is due in Thurs/fri.

Whatever you get pop the seals off and pack them with grease before fitting. I use ceramic bearings in my Kysrium from the |Hub |Doctor on ebay, U.S based guy, good bearings, fair prices.

you’ve been using up the oxygen in the shed….

Apparently so…

Why bother with all that complicated bollocks, I’ve already posted a link to the part.

http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/orange_derailleur_hangers_p653spa-ID_11341?source=aw

Maybe?

They aren’t that pinch flat resistant as the sidewalls are quite thin and flexy, they are pretty tough to cuts though. They aren’t a full on DH build by any stretch.

Conti Gators are pretty tough but the Gatorskin Hardshell are tougher still.

I used to run the SX on my demo I now run 33m LB on Hopes with CX-ray on my Commencal. They are both good wheels. I’d have the SX again any time great wheel, robust, easy to service and light. Spares availability might be an issue, so buy a handful of spokes to keep you going. The carbon wheels are similarly fine, about the same weight and price and have proven to be tough so far.

Neither of them are a bad choice.

General rule of thumb, heel on pedal at the bottom of the stroke- in line with seat tube. The trouble when fitting is that different people have different flexibility, if you can get your flat hands on the floor (past touching toes) then you can ride with an almost straight leg, maybe 5 degree bend, but that’s assuming a level foot position throughout the stroke, not heel up at the bottom of the stroke.

As long as you aint rocking your pelvis or straining behind the knee you are generally good to go.

Getting people to pedal at 120 rpm usually shows you what’s good and what isn’t.

I wouldn’t lend my tools out to anyone. If it was a little job I’d do it for you FOC if allowed.

Unless you are using the very best tubs that Veloflex or FMB offer then you can comfortably match them, for weight and rolling resistance with the best of the current clincher crop.

An alloy clincher rim will add a couple of hundred grams over a carbon tubular aero wheel, and unlike carbon alloy buckles. You can’t really buckle a carbon rim, you can bend the spokes it is laced with though or damage it with too much heat if you drag your brakes.

Carbon tubulars are great for race day, but a lot of the carbon race wheels with deep section hubs simply ain’t built for everyday use.

I can’t speak for Ribble, but there’s a world of difference between the PX alloy rt-58 and the carbon version, the carbon is a smoother ride, transmits less road noise and vibration, weighs less and generally handles better. In comparison the alloy ride is a little rough around the edges, it’s still a very decent frame for the money but the carbon is noticeably better.

Its not.

On some tyres the rim depth isn’t enough to put the tyres on by hand and you have to resort to a flat and thin tyre lever. The last bit always goes on by hand but the previous 30cm or so can be a bitch.

new ceramic bearing s for my old Kysirium ES wheels.

I don’t know any extended warranty that would include labour.

We sell a broad range.

Ultremos are ok for about 1000 miles, but are easily pierced.
The various 320 tpi Vittorias are a little faster but even less puncture resistant.
Michelin 4s are pretty solid as a lightweight.
Conti GP4s, 4000s and Gatorskins are better if you want real puncture resistance. The hardshell Gatorskins are pretty much unbeatable as commuters.

The KCNC sets are pretty god as well.

lightweight unbranded 700c, trade cost about £1.15p from Asia bought in hundreds. Any shop who doesn’t bulk buy their own direct are just idiots.

I’ll ride straight through anything ahead of me. But I’ll strip my BB out when I get home.

Oli, just because river water isn’t full of salt doesn’t mean it magically doesn’t cause rust. Salt water just does it quicker. If you don’t believe me, put some water down your seat tube, leave it for a week and then repeat once. You should have BB blood leaking from your cranks by the end of week two.

Yup, I’d be dissasembling those hubs and that freehub, popping off the seals and repacking everything with fresh grease.

Or you could just be expecting a level of precision that doesn’t exist…

If you can track stand you don’t need to X-up, you can get steady with only a few degrees of bar turn and no need for any incline. Only a monkey ned to X-up on a 45 degree slope.

It’s blurred because it’s under the minimum focal length of the lens.

Price is no real indicator of quality. Get decent spec ones from trusted brands, FAG, SKF, Timken. Choose stainless with highest sphericity

Tell me that’s your thumb….

Stiffness and damping aren’t the same thing. You can have stiff materials that are inherently self damping and much more flexible materials that are also self damping. Carbon fibre and sorbothane are about as chalk and cheese as you can get but both of them are self damping, just at quite different frequencies and with different Q’s as bulk materials.

and do Renthal make their own carbon bars? I assume whoever said that mean they are made by the people who make them for Renthal.

Should have just replaced the bearings.

Goodridge

I admire your optimism. You think the bike shop will warranty a pair of forks you took to bits and put back together incorrectly? Which shop is it I’ll buy my next bike them…

Jesus FC, I expect them to put a lift to the top in place, everything else is down to me. 3cm shorter in one leg? It’s the NHS he wants to sue.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/59684834@N08/sets/72157638740866764/

knock yourself out.

Isn’t the P7 from SSC, using Cree LED’s.

http://www.dx.com/p/ssc-p7-w724c0-bsypi-3-6v-4-2v-12w-led-emitter-bare-11809

Your saddle is too low, no doubt about it. I’d also put good money on the nose of your saddle being too low as well, that shifts your weight forward, and you are probably doing that to compensate for a bad saddle choice.

With your heel on the center of the pedal at the bottom of the stroke your leg should be a few degrees shy of being locked at the knee. Don’t try pedaling backwards as a check though, it doesn’t work as we all pedal heel down when going backwards but pedal heel up when pedaling forwards so it could be 2-3″ different.

They always have a great selection of mtb tyres in though, so props to them for that. And a mechanic wouldn’t just tape your tub, he’d glue and tape and the glue has to tack up and that takes 20 minutes.

Home delivery by staff on bike is epic customer service, they deserve major props for that.

All email apps mail out alphabetically, sometimes within sub groups of the mailing list based on transaction worth, or other parameters.

Simply use the ‘Yellow pages’ email trick and set up an address like Aardvark@gmail or whatever to ensure you get an early mail. That way you stand the best chance of catching the deals. Works for Groupon and all those other deal sites as well.

I go riding with a couple of the lads who work in the shop.