Hope you enjoy it – I’m really jealous.
I had some cracking sessions when we were down in Cornwall/Devon the week before last. Spent 4 days camped on the cliffs at Polzeath before heading up to Croyde for a further 3 days. Pretty good surf most days and managed to get in most mornings for a dawnie to beat the crowds.
Only downer was that I managed to get a 2 inch rip on my palm of my hand hand from my fin at Polzeath after getting sucked over the falls on a particularly big set. Had to paddle in with blood gushing out of it before binding it with my leash. My wife reckons I was white as a sheet by the time I got back to the van.
At the time I thought I might need stitches but didn’t want to go to casualty in case they told me to stop surfing for the week. Spent the rest of the week wearing one glove in a Michael Jackson stylee! Seems to be healing pretty well now though.
My first decent run of surf since May – made me realise how much I miss it. Plans coming together for a move to Devon next year though!!!